Barricade - Yamaha FZ-16 (2009) - Midnight Black


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Hello, I'm looking forward to buying a new carburettor. Between single cable and dual cable variants are there any significant differences between them other than the price and the latter having two throttle cables? Dual cable- Rs.4090, Single cable-Rs.5770. Even buying a switch assembly, grip and an additional throttle cable along with a dual cable carb, it still costs 1100 less than single cable variant. What do you recommend?
Which Carb did you end up buying? My bike's stock carb is single wire('09-'10 Fazer), I too am in the same dilemma. If I opt for the dual line, will I have to change other components as well?
 
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Dual cable carb is the better bet and can be used with single cable. Yamaha ditched the idea of dual cable and fitted single cable over dual-cable carb towards the end. Part number for that specific cable is 21C-F6311-300. Can use with current switch and grip and save the cost of the extra cable.

Quoting below the reply by Mr. Nikhil George of Moto Wheels, Kochi (Yamaha genuine parts distributor) for one of my FB posts regarding FZ carbs. Can be helpful to all carb FZians.
My issue is that my bike('09-'10 Fazer) was abandoned for a few years, it started after a new battery.
The issue was that sometimes (1 in 10 times) when I used to start it, for a few seconds it refused to respond to the throttle, although never turned off & sometimes refused to start at all, had to choke it.
After visiting a local mechanic, acc. to him the issue was the carb, the slider & cylinder seemed to be worn out(pics attached).
Another issue was tick tick noise, the culprit being the AIS. After cleaning AIS, the starting problem & initial 2-3 seconds of non-responsive throttle seems to have been solved, alongwith the tick tick noise which is almost gone.
Now the question is should I even replace my Carb as the missing issue is no more there but if you could by looking at the slider & cylinder, tell me if replacement is needed, do these lines on the slider mean something along with on the cylinder?
My bike came with a single wire carb, which one should I buy, dual or single or as some suggest using Pulsar's Carb. I'm just a rookie when it comes to it, I would be needing more guidance from you & others :).
 

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deville_56

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I have a little complex issue. My bike('09-'10 Fazer) was abandoned for a few years, it started after a new battery.
The issue was that sometimes (1 in 10) when I used to start it, for a few seconds it refused to respond to the throttle, although never turned off & sometimes refused to start at all, had to choke it.
After visiting a local mechanic, acc. to him the issue was the carb, the slider & cylinder seemed to be worn out(pics attached).
Another issue was tick tick noise, the culprit being the AIS. After cleaning it, the starting problem & initial 2-3 seconds of non-responsive throttle seems to have been solved, alongwith the tick tick noise which is almost gone.
Now the question is should I even replace my Carb as the missing issue is no more there but if you could by looking at the slider & cylinder, tell me if replacement is needed.
My biks came with a single wire carb, which one should I buy, dual or single or as some suggest using Pulsar's Carb. I'm just a rookie when it comes to it, I would be needing more guidance from you & others :).
Dual cable carb with single cable. You can retain switch and even grip.

@sacbiker installed 200NS carb. He can shed more info on that, if need be. Otherwise dual cable is the best option.

Details of cable and full explanation by Nikhil George is in the quoted post itself.
 
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Dual cable carb with single cable. You can retain switch and even grip.

@sacbiker installed 200NS carb. He can shed more info on that, if need be. Otherwise dual cable is the best option.

Details of cable and full explanation by Nikhil George is in the quoted post itself.
Yes that piece of article was helpful but my question is do I even need a replacement, as after servicing the AIS, missing/starting issue seems to have been resolved?
Sorry for repeating but can you make out just by looking at the carb pictures whether a new one is required?
Thanks.
 
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deville_56

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Yes that piece of article was helpful but my question is do I even need a replacement, as after servicing the AIS, missing/starting issue seems to have been resolved?
Sorry for repeating but can you make out just by looking at the carb pictures whether a new one is required?
Thanks.
Can't make out from the image, but lot of scaring. Just to confirm, replace with Apache RTR 160's piston, which is pretty cheap compared to Yamaha OE.
 
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Yamalube for FZ was mineral, Yamalube SL 20W40. Most OEMs opts mineral for cost benefit. As said above, they silently gave an option to use R15 oil, which was semisynthetic. Newer versions from version 2 came with 10W40, mineral for FZ/SZ series and fully synthetic for premium bikes, which the former can opt for without affecting the warranty, and costs just ₹50 more, but sadly not compatible with our version. Initial Yamalubes were all repacked Motul 3000 and 5100 before switching the vendor.
You mean the Yamalube Fully Synthetic, available for the R15, isn't compatible with our bikes?
I visited the Yamaha Spare Parts seller(sadly in my city the Yamaha agency/workshop closed a few years ago, but the authorised/official wholesale spareparts seller is still here), I can't vouch for his technical/mechanical acumen but he said the synthetic one would work just fine & people do buy it for their FZs.
Just suggest an oil for me brother, I plan on doing long distance tours only, it's getting much more complicated than I thought it would .
 

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deville_56

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You mean the Yamalube Fully Synthetic, available for the R15, isn't compatible with our bikes?
I visited the Yamaha Spare Parts seller(sadly in my city the Yamaha agency/workshop closed a few years ago, but the authorised/official wholesale spareparts seller is still here), I can't vouch for his technical/mechanical acumen but he said the synthetic one would work just fine & people do buy it for their FZs.
Just suggest an oil for me brother, I plan on doing long distance tours only, it's getting much more complicated than I thought it would .
New Yamalube 10W40 won't do well on our gen FZ. I got into trouble twice using 10W40.

Most trusted one for FZ is Motul 5100. Get 15W50. Check level once in a while. Replace 2.5-3k intervals.
 
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I believe, it leaves extra room for the valve, causing improper closure. Better get it reversed.
1) All the Yamaha FZ videos that I could find where AIS was disassembled, I didn't see any washer.
Also the reeds are different, probably because Yamaha might have changed the internal components in the later models. Sorry for being annoying but I'm still getting a little OCD about the positioning of the washer.

2) I found my owner's manual, any idea what is this supposed to mean, 'Periodic oil change 1L & total quantity 1.20L'?
 

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deville_56

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1) All the Yamaha FZ videos that I could find where AIS was disassembled, I didn't see any washer.
Also the reeds are different, probably because Yamaha might have changed the internal components in the later models. Sorry for being annoying but I'm still getting a little OCD about the positioning of the washer.

2) I found my owner's manual, any idea what is this supposed to mean, 'Periodic oil change 1L & total quantity 1.20L'?
The one in the videos is a different model, maybe Pricol make, compared to Mikuni in ours. They seem to be riveted instead of the locking washers and the entire reed setup looks different. Locking washers can be installed in one way only.

Total quantity is what the engine holds and needs during an overhaul, some remains during normal change.
 
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How come the the plug cap looks silvery/steel-ish in colour when taken out, both old & new? Is it the exposure playing around?[confused]
Bought Valvoline 4T Premium 20W50. MRP ₹ 523.00, got for ₹ 410.00
What are your views about this oil, not as good as the Motul 5100?

You recommended Motul 5100(15W50) to me, 1.1L being the quantity with oil filter change. The oil that will be used for soaking the oil filter is in addition to the 1.1L? Sorry for nitpicking but I'm apprehensive as this is my first time diy ever on a vehicle & lots of sentiments attached to this bike.

Btw this is the most comprehensive & updated FZ thread that I could find anywhere, one the major reasons why I joined this forum. [:D]
 
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deville_56

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How come the the plug cap looks silvery/steel-ish in colour when taken out, both old & new? Is it the exposure playing around?[confused]
It's black only.

You recommended Motul 5100(15W50) to me, 1.1L being the quantity with oil filter change. The oil that will be used for soaking the oil filter is in addition to the 1.1L? Sorry for nitpicking but I'm apprehensive as this is my first time diy ever on a vehicle & lots of sentiments attached to this bike.

Btw this is the most comprehensive & updated FZ thread that I could find anywhere, one the major reasons why I joined this forum. [:D]
I keep switching brands. Used Motul 5100 the most number of times, 26 out of 59 oil changes. This time chose cheaper option since engine had scoring and there was slow oil depletion and seeing a bore work sooner or later (and to confirm it was not 5100 vaporizing). Total 1.1 L with soaking.

Btw this is the most comprehensive & updated FZ thread that I could find anywhere, one the major reasons why I joined this forum. [:D]
[cheers]
 
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deville_56

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December 2022 - LED Upgrade - Autobahn F5

I wasn't a fan of LEDs with the prejudice that they are not suitable for high beam from their initial versions. Had my friend's Karizma R as long-term safe custody with me, which had an Oscelot branded LED that changed my perception, but never had a plan due to the cost. Unfortunately, that one conked off and he asked me to search a good replacement. After some search and previous queries made by another friend, found this Autobahn model to be decent. Sent him the link. He ordered as a pair and the extra one was my surprise gift.

Model was Autobahn F5 G-XP x3, 55W per bulb and 10,000 lumens each with colour temperature of 6500K. USP was the 2-year warranty. Some more search revealed it to be F5 branded (or model name, like Night Eye), which is rebranded and sold in India by many sellers, with some of them selling at a little over double the price we paid for. We got it for ₹6749 a pair, missed out the coupon code on the top of their website for an additional 10% discount.

The box. No details of manufacturer or importer on the box.

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Package.

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The bulb.

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Fan is silent.

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Base is removable for easier install.

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Compact driver. Claims to support 9V to 36V.

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And the H4 connector. The whole setup comes with IP65 protection.

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Installed on S-Presso for direct comparison with regular bulb. Low beam.

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High beam.

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Installed. First installed the base, then the dust cover and then the bulb. Have to check the orientation as it can fit either way, upside down too.

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Initial impression. Beam is so intense that it bounce back from shiny cars and chrome, which can be irritating. Both beams are great, way beyond my expectation.

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Smoke effect [evil]

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High beam in a poorly lit stretch. Yet to take a proper high/low snap.

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Out for a spin.

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I was recently buying a set of t10 led for a Suzuki access, and Autobahn refused to sell them to me saying that don't support LED in two wheeler applications. I finally convinced them to send them for use in my car, but they said they would not provide warranty if the led was used in a two wheeler and it goes kaput. I'm not sure how they plan to enforce the policy, but fyi

Personally I'm using a Philips ultinon h4 I bought from a Philips distributor in palarivattom in my car, and I find it adequate and on par with the extreme vision halogens I had before despite them being just 25w
 
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deville_56

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I was recently buying a set of t10 led for a Suzuki access, and Autobahn refused to sell them to me saying that don't support LED in two wheeler applications. I finally convinced them to send them for use in my car, but they said they would not provide warranty if the led was used in a two wheeler and it goes kaput. I'm not sure how they plan to enforce the policy, but fyi

Personally I'm using a Philips ultinon h4 I bought from a Philips distributor in palarivattom in my car, and I find it adequate and on par with the extreme vision halogens I had before despite them being just 25w
We encountered the same situation. Refused 55W when asked for bike (Karizma).
 
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