Barricade - Yamaha FZ-16 (2009) - Midnight Black

[sacbiker]

Had no tools with me. Borrowed an old chisel from the neighbour. Steel scale was perfect.

This can be tightened with a coin and a plier.
The slot provided is for a coin to fit perfectly.

 

[deville_56]

January 2023 - New Fuel Sender Assembly

Fuel gauge was showing weird readings for some time and then suddenly stopped, culprit being the fuel float aka the fuel sender assembly. Got one immediately.

Sender Assembly - 21C-H5701-03 - ₹ 680.00

The sender unit.

Pricol make.

Gave the tank a proper detailed wash before removing.

Then removed the tank.

Found the issue. Some moron screwed up the connector and twisted the wire on the terminal, which was loose and eventually got off, breaking the circuit.

There was rusty deposition, but the base was not rusted.

Old sender.

View of tank top from the bottom.

Resistance values, full vs empty.

Empty value of old sender.

New versus old comparison. New unit had a permanent connection.

Slight rusting in the tank base, but nothing alarming.

Simulating full tank.

Now fully functional fuel gauge.

November 2022 - Insurance updated (Missed out)

Stayed with Acko. Got comprehensive with IDV of ₹ 24,425.00

Third-Party Premium - ₹ 714.00
Own-Damage Premium - ₹146.00
NCB - 50%

Net Premium - ₹ 1,020.00

 

[deville_56]

2023 January - Update

Tank middle panel CF wrap was damaged recently. Redid the wrap.

Got new vinyls, pretty thin for wrapping.

Tank cap surround trim had wear over time.

Did a quick spray.

All set for install.

 

[deville_56]

February 2023 - If it works, Leave alone!!!

Decided to clean the carburettor for no apparent reason.

Filtered muck inside the bowl. Imagine if filter was not there.

Cleaned up.

Magsol as usual.

\

Assembled back. O-ring was elongated and was not fitting properly, but somehow managed.

Fuel cock strainer cup. Pre-filter stage. There was thicker muck. Cleaned it out.

While installing, there was petrol leak from the carb bowl through the gap. O-ring was the culprit.

Last minute Sunday part hunt and got hold of this non-OE repair kit, for just the O-ring. Carb is Mikuni and kit says Keihin Japan.

Motolabs Carburretor Repair Kit - 16155-885-307 - ₹ 290.00

Had almost all child parts. OE parts would easily go past 2.5 for this much stuff.

The kit minus the O-ring.

Cheapness was speaking all over.

Installed it. No leak initially, but overnight, it was leaking 10x the elongated OE rubber.

It was literally flat. Comparing old one, which still retained the round cross section.

Straight to Yamaha, got the original one. Made in Japan.

Carburettor Bowl O-Ring - 21C-14147-00 - ₹ 231.00

Fits like a glove.

Assembled and installed back. Happy ending.

 

[deville_56]

March/April 2023 - New Seat Assembly

Running around without much trouble.

Seat assembly was damaged over time. Last replaced in 2017.

Just inquired with Moto Wheels, Kochi, Yamaha parts distributor via a friend at Cochin and seat was available on order. Paid amount and booked. Received at their end in a week or so. Collected and transported by @vishnu vichu to Trivandrum.

Double Seat Assembly - 21C-F4730-00 - ₹ 1,300.00

2023 Make.

Forgot to mention FZ-S seat. Got the original FZ-16 version with silver band, which I don't like.

FZ-S had black carbon-fibre finish band, but non-perforated material elsewhere.

On the other hand, FZ-16 seat had premium finish material except the easy wearing silver band.

Installed.

Had to loan indicator flasher to someone. Ended up buying new one.

Electronic Flasher - Minda 850036 - ₹ 99.00

 

[deville_56]

May 2023 - Oil Change

Getting wet.

Valvoline 4T Premium 20W50 - ₹ 410.00 (MRP ₹ 523.00)

Warning for switching the mechanic. Missing crush washer.

New washers

90430-12227-00 - ₹ 4.00/piece

Oil level was also alarming. Drained after 1932 km, 550 ml.

Till last drop.

 

[deville_56]

May 2023 - Race Bearing aka Cone Set Replacement

Bought a race bearing kit back in February as it started showing slight symptoms. Most mechanics suggests using RX or Crux part over original FZ parts claiming their poor life. But, I bought the original FZ part, another impulse buy. As usual, I was just inquiring the price and ended up buying one.

Race Bearing Kit - 21C-WF661-90 - ₹ 410.00

The content of the kit is mentioned on the package, Yamaha things. I doubt Yamaha or their dealers sell them individually like in case of chain set, but they are not expensive to be bought as a kit and most of the components would be worn together.

Individual parts from the kit.

Special Washer and O-ring for race bearing. ASC replaces O-ring whenever they replace the bearing.

Gave it to Vinayaka Motors for replacement, the FNG that didn't install the drain bolt crush washer, thought it was just a human error and so the second chance. They proved it right. First, the bike wasn't starting in gear, thought the clutch switch was gone and thought of replacing myself than leaving the bike there again. Bought a new switch and I was about to disassemble and spotted they forgot to connect the switch. Suspicion grew and checked the cone set installation. They didn't install the O-ring and the plate was the old one and severely damaged because of the missing O-ring. Last nail in the coffin. One more FNG turned rogue. Labour was ₹ 400.00.

Clutch Switch - 21C-H2917-02 - ₹ 50.00

Unnecessarily bought.

The secret child part - flasher stay. Most dealers won't stock them nor would tell such a part exist. Bought 4 of them.

Flasher Stay - 20P-H3318-10 - ₹ 27.00

Bent one.

Old vs new.

 

[VISHNUCARCRAZY]

My go-to mechanic for Honda is Aiyappan Honda, don't know whether they do Yamaha. He's reasonable with labour charges and his work is neat, never have to give the scooter twice for the same issue.

 

[deville_56]

My go-to mechanic for Honda is Aiyappan Honda, don't know whether they do Yamaha. He's reasonable with labour charges and his work is neat, never have to give the scooter twice for the same issue.

He won't take anything other than a Hero or a Honda. Secondly, had bad experience with him as well, not regarding work quality, but mix up of parts. My FIL's bike is serviced there for sometime. Once, got back with someone else's engine head and forks, may not be intentional, the volume they handle is huge, but they need to be careful with customer parts.

 

[Nasuruddin Naufal]

Finally i found a detailed post about fz v1. Just went through your posts and saw 90k kms on odo but the bike is still shining new. Kudos to you to maintain like this.
I have a fzs battle green v1 2014 ( last lot before the v2 came).
I used it very less during college days like 14k kms for 4 years. Then for the next four years i went abroad for work (which didn't work out) and my bro would use on weekends did only minor maintenance services only. It sat for most of the time.
Now that i came back to india and decided to use it as daily. Brought it from my hometown to bangalore as of rn. Using it for nearly 1.5years. Since it has been neglected for 4 years all electrical part started to show their age, ive been restoring one by one after saving a bit by bit.
Last week did a general service, and decided to change the speed sensor which wasn't working for long period (stuck at 15k). After that i would've done around 7-8k kms (~25000kms for 10 years)
In this 1.5 years i did around 7k kms. So i decided to restore it to proper stock one by one.
Problem is I've replaced the speed sensor and im getting fluctuating values for 40% of the time. What could be the issue?
I do most of the work by myself. Did all control cable replacement, speedometer display issue which caused by faulty battery to blow up the oscillator in the pcb, self motor carbon brush replacement and all kinds of cosmetic work. So im pretty sure im missing something in this speedometer sensor case. Also i didn't grease the sensor hub. Should i apply grease on shaft of the sensor? Is it ok? And any guidance to speed sensor fluctuating issue would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[deville_56]

Finally i found a detailed post about fz v1. Just went through your posts and saw 90k kms on odo but the bike is still shining new. Kudos to you to maintain like this.
I have a fzs battle green v1 2014 ( last lot before the v2 came).
I used it very less during college days like 14k kms for 4 years. Then for the next four years i went abroad for work (which didn't work out) and my bro would use on weekends did only minor maintenance services only. It sat for most of the time.
Now that i came back to india and decided to use it as daily. Brought it from my hometown to bangalore as of rn. Using it for nearly 1.5years. Since it has been neglected for 4 years all electrical part started to show their age, ive been restoring one by one after saving a bit by bit.
Last week did a general service, and decided to change the speed sensor which wasn't working for long period (stuck at 15k). After that i would've done around 7-8k kms (~25000kms for 10 years)
In this 1.5 years i did around 7k kms. So i decided to restore it to proper stock one by one.
Problem is I've replaced the speed sensor and im getting fluctuating values for 40% of the time. What could be the issue?
I do most of the work by myself. Did all control cable replacement, speedometer display issue which caused by faulty battery to blow up the oscillator in the pcb, self motor carbon brush replacement and all kinds of cosmetic work. So im pretty sure im missing something in this speedometer sensor case. Also i didn't grease the sensor hub. Should i apply grease on shaft of the sensor? Is it ok? And any guidance to speed sensor fluctuating issue would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Quite confusing scenario. Usually intermittent issue happens at the end of life of the sensor. Yes, try lubing. The shaft should be freely spinning. Check if there is play or getting stuck. If lubing doesn't help swap with another sensor and confirm.

Since the meter was blown once, it's now a 50:50 between the meter and the sensor.

 

[Nasuruddin Naufal]

Quite confusing scenario. Usually intermittent issue happens at the end of life of the sensor. Yes, try lubing. The shaft should be freely spinning. Check if there is play or getting stuck. If lubing doesn't help swap with another sensor and confirm.

Since the meter was blown once, it's now a 50:50 between the meter and the sensor.

Yeah I've tried lubing and found the wheel spins smooth. Cleaned the connector and pins in digital console, routed the cable as per manual. Still no luck.
Finally while being stationary found that while checking the connector area above engine, the were some fluctuations in console. Narrowed it down to the female connector. Cleaned, re routed and adjusted the slack , zip tied with nearby cable in a way that the sensor cable doesn't get any obstruction while turning handlebar end to end. Now it works like a dream.
Since the female connector is with the bunch of wires wound as harness didn't disturb that. Will replace the cable harness on the other end by this month or next.

 

[deville_56]

June 2023 - New Brake Shoes

Got high-friction shoe set from Camp Auto. Bite is great in Dio. Same with FZ post install. Drum brake never felt like this with OE shoes since ages. But won't go for it again since the wear is too much.

Brake Shoe Kit - Camp Auto CA14B-508NA - ₹ 350.00

Came as a kit unlike Yamaha OE.

Brake Rod Spring - ₹ 10.00

This one.

Old vs new.

Kit ready for install.

Installed and ready to go in the bike.

No post-install pic as it started raining heavily.

Ready to roll.

 

[ansh240]

December 2022 - LED Upgrade - Autobahn F5

I wasn't a fan of LEDs with the prejudice that they are not suitable for high beam from their initial versions. Had my friend's Karizma R as long-term safe custody with me, which had an Oscelot branded LED that changed my perception, but never had a plan due to the cost. Unfortunately, that one conked off and he asked me to search a good replacement. After some search and previous queries made by another friend, found this Autobahn model to be decent. Sent him the link. He ordered as a pair and the extra one was my surprise gift.

Model was Autobahn F5 G-XP x3, 55W per bulb and 10,000 lumens each with colour temperature of 6500K. USP was the 2-year warranty. Some more search revealed it to be F5 branded (or model name, like Night Eye), which is rebranded and sold in India by many sellers, with some of them selling at a little over double the price we paid for. We got it for ₹6749 a pair, missed out the coupon code on the top of their website for an additional 10% discount.

The box. No details of manufacturer or importer on the box.

View attachment 315431 View attachment 315432

Package.

View attachment 315429 View attachment 315430

Hi Dilip,

First of all, thank you for sharing all the detailed posts about the repairs, DIY projects, parts, and many other aspects of your FZ. They've been incredibly helpful to me as I’m also into DIY and prefer handling all the work on my bike (FZS V1) myself. I don’t trust either ASC or FNG, they’re both often unreliable. SVCs tend to replace unnecessary parts for profit, while FNGs often lack a solid understanding of each bike’s unique engineering.

Long story short, after reading your thread a while ago, I upgraded my FZ’s headlamp to a 60/55W bulb, just like you did. However, I’ve noticed that the horn sounds a bit weaker when the headlamp is on, especially in city or slow-speed conditions, although it sounds normal at high speed.

Now, I’m considering upgrading to an LED bulb of the same wattage and adding a secondary horn, but I’m concerned it might worsen the issue. Have you ever faced a weak horn issue with your halogen or current LED setup? Any advice on managing this would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you

 

[deville_56]

Hi Dilip,

First of all, thank you for sharing all the detailed posts about the repairs, DIY projects, parts, and many other aspects of your FZ. They've been incredibly helpful to me as I’m also into DIY and prefer handling all the work on my bike (FZS V1) myself. I don’t trust either ASC or FNG, they’re both often unreliable. SVCs tend to replace unnecessary parts for profit, while FNGs often lack a solid understanding of each bike’s unique engineering.

Long story short, after reading your thread a while ago, I upgraded my FZ’s headlamp to a 60/55W bulb, just like you did. However, I’ve noticed that the horn sounds a bit weaker when the headlamp is on, especially in city or slow-speed conditions, although it sounds normal at high speed.

Now, I’m considering upgrading to an LED bulb of the same wattage and adding a secondary horn, but I’m concerned it might worsen the issue. Have you ever faced a weak horn issue with your halogen or current LED setup? Any advice on managing this would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you

Issue can be sorted out by adding relay to the horn, so that it off loads the extra burden from the stock wiring. Anyways required since horn upgrade is planned. Never faced the issue since the setup since the second day of purchase with upgraded horns (and I rarely honk ).