Barricade - Yamaha FZ-16 (2009) - Midnight Black

[Shashankfz-fi]

What is the Ideal time duration to replace the Tyres?

 

[deville_56]

What is the Ideal time duration to replace the Tyres?

Depends on wear. There are wear indicators. Once they become level with the thread, replace. If usage is less, ideally every 5-6 years.

 

[deville_56]

November 2022 - Updates

Bought Valvoline 4T Premium 20W50. MRP ₹ 523.00, got for ₹ 410.00
The mechanic didn't mention changing oil. Just checked level before (attempting) oil change and it was fresh oil. Possibly MAK 20W40 mineral, which he stocks in barrel. Kept the Valvoline in the shelf for the time being.

Don't know how every mechanic manage to do this

Had all them with me.

Straight Screw Plug - 90340-14117 - ₹ 11.00

Straight Screw Plug - 90340-32805 - ₹ 13.00

O-Ring (Big) - 93210-32813₹ - 18.00

O-Ring (Small) - 93210-14899 - ₹ 9.00

Had no tools with me. Borrowed an old chisel from the neighbour. Steel scale was perfect.

Simple unscrew.

Old vs new.

Installed. Why can't an experienced mechanic do the same?

Soot on the plug. Might've happened pre-valve replacement. Installed a less used clean OE NGK plug to check before getting a new plug.

Hit 154k. Took 3 months for the 1000.

Battery band, rusted, but factory stock.

Side panel had cracking. Fixed by the Chinese YouTube fix. Needs replacement.

Washed and lube.

 

[Shashankfz-fi]

I'm thinking of upgrading to a new bike (will also keep my FZ as primary bike) thinking about new duke 250 or Apache RTR 310 (base model). can you suggest which one is proper and good upgrade from FZ V2?

 

[deville_56]

I'm thinking of upgrading to a new bike (will also keep my FZ as primary bike) thinking about new duke 250 or Apache RTR 310 (base model). can you suggest which one is proper and good upgrade from FZ V2?

That would be a personal choice. Test drive both and see which one is more comfortable or tastes your taste better. Secondly, check for service quality and parts availability in your location.

 

[Jawajatt]

June 2021 - AIS (Air Induction System) (Repairing and) Cleaning

AIS is one of the most ignored part in the bike (so did I), some end up bypassing it when it starts misfiring. It's a small diaphragmatic valve controlled by intake pressure differences and feed clean air to exhaust port to burn off unburned fuel especially at lower rpms and decelerating. Faulty one would end up acting like an EGR valve feeding exhaust gas into the air filter box and into the intake. Never cleaned in my bike, kept postponing, until a friend asked doubts about cleaning (which I had no clue of).

To start with, it can be accessed by removing the RH tank panel.

View attachment 290877

Access is hindered in my case with the after-market horn.

View attachment 290878

Disconnected and removed the horn and found it was secured with the missing engine casing bolt @n_g_rjun

View attachment 290879

The AIS. Has 3 hoses, small one to intake manifold which controls the whole system. Other two goes to air filter box and exhaust port.

View attachment 290880

Disconnect all of them and remove the 10-mm bolt.

View attachment 290881

And it will come off.

View attachment 290884
View attachment 290882 View attachment 290883 View attachment 290885 View attachment 290886 View attachment 290887

Four screws hold them to the clamp as well as secures the cover. Removing them opens up the AIS as well.

View attachment 290890
View attachment 290888

Base part where exhaust port connects. Coal-like debris.

View attachment 290891

Reed valve set up on the top part. Partially blocked with debris as well. Clean these two and you are good to go in normal case,

View attachment 290892

but on the other side I see an O-ring and a retainer washer. Something is not right.

View attachment 290893

It was oily all over.

View attachment 290894

Popped open the side cover and found the air shut off valve fallen off. This might be the reason for untraced oil depletion and/or quick plug darkening, but the reed valve in between made that theory speculative.

View attachment 290895

Opened the intake manifold-fed side. It's spring-loaded and negative pressure/suction force from intake manifold pulls the diaphragm outwards.

View attachment 290896

View attachment 290897

The shaft on the other end is where the fallen valve belongs.

View attachment 290898

Found the location of the o-ring.

View attachment 290899

Installed back the valve and secured with the retainer washer.

View attachment 290900

Normal/open position. Free flow of air to exhaust port.

View attachment 290901

Shut off position, when activated. This blocks air flow. At higher rpm, suction force will be high at intake manifold, pulling the diaphragm in, shutting off this valve. Pressure will be high at exhaust port too, causing reverse flow into filter box, which is blocked by this valve.

View attachment 290902

Cleaning up. Reed can be disassembled by removing the bolt.

View attachment 290903 View attachment 290904

Base and rubber lining can be separated and cleaned conveniently.

View attachment 290905

All cleaned and ready to install.

View attachment 290907

Reed assembled.

View attachment 290908

Cleaning the muck on the base.

View attachment 290909 View attachment 290910

Sprayed some throttle-body cleaner and wiped off. Effortless and effective.

View attachment 290911

Work in progress.

View attachment 290912

Spring on the diaphragm side.

View attachment 290916

Assembled and ready to install.

View attachment 290915

Rubber piping to exhaust port. Cleaned that with diesel and some TB cleaner.

View attachment 290914

Exhaust port outlet. When disconnected, makes mild FFE/induction-like noise. Commonly seen blocked with bearing balls especially in commuter bikes and Unicorns even by ASC.

View attachment 290913

Installed and all tubes connected.

View attachment 290917

This is where the tube connects to the intake manifold.

View attachment 290924

and where it meets the air filter box. Other tube is for crankcase ventilation. It's been a long since stripped and cleaned the bike. Full of dirt.

View attachment 290925

New flange bolt for horn/tank mounting.

View attachment 290918

Thread gone in one of the tank cover nut springs.

View attachment 290919

The ₹80 Yamaha part I have been saving for years. Heard new ones are cheaper.

View attachment 290920

Pulsar fairing bolts. Cheap and of good quality.

View attachment 290921

Checked air filter box for oil and there was just a trace.

View attachment 290922

All set and done.

View attachment 290923

Hi brother, I have a Yamaha Fazer v1 the earliest of models, I'm in the process of restoring it after it was abandoned for a few years. The AIS was making tik-tik noise, the moment I removed the ais hose the noise stops. So thought of cleaning it.

Now when I started cleaning it, I forgot to take pictures so that I could properly re-install(saw some yt videos, there the reeds seem to be a little different, perhaps Yamaha changed it). I was confused in the positioning of the reeds(saw your photo, I concur the flat reed would be placed below the curved one which has a rectangular cut). The retainer washer & o ring in my ais was also in the exact same chamber as yours, are you sure it has to placed on the needle, although it makes no sense where I found it?

And such a detailed thread/posts, congratulations & thanks, I'm sure we'll interact now, as I've only started restoring it. My next query would be the Carburettor (single vs dual).

I put the retainer washer different from yours(the bulge is towards the out side). Should I remove & reinstall, the rubber disc although wasn't coming/falling out.

 

[Jawajatt]

Hi brother, I have a Yamaha Fazer v1, the earliest of models, I'm in the process of restoring it after it was abandoned for a few years. The AIS was making tik-tik noise, the moment I removed the ais hose the noise stops. So thought of cleaning it.

Now when I started cleaning it, totally clueless, I forgot to take pictures so that I could properly re-install(saw some yt videos, there the reeds seem to be a little different, perhaps Yamaha changed it with later models). I was confused in the positioning of the reeds(saw your photo, I concur the flat reed would be placed below the curved one which has a rectangular cut). The retainer washer & o ring in my ais was also in the same chamber as yours, are you sure it has to placed on the needle, although it makes no sense where I (or we) found it?

And such a detailed thread/posts, congratulations & thanks, I'm sure we'll interact more, as I've only started restoring it. My next query would be regarding the Carburettor (single vs dual, mine has a single line Carb).

I put the retainer washer in a different position from yours(the bulge is towards the out side). Should I remove & reinstall, the rubber disc although wasn't coming/falling out.

Sorry I don't know how to edit my earlier reply, attaching another photo, depicting that my washer & o ring too were found in the exact(almost) location as yours.
Also after installing the cleaned ais, the tiktok noise is almost gone(about 70%) but still there. Will a faulty Ais affect the bike in any way(it does atleast as per the YT videos, which can't be easily trusted)?

 

[deville_56]

I put the retainer washer different from yours(the bulge is towards the out side). Should I remove & reinstall, the rubber disc although wasn't coming/falling out.

I believe, it leaves extra room for the valve, causing improper closure. Better get it reversed.

Also after installing the cleaned ais, the tiktok noise is almost gone(about 70%) but still there. Will a faulty Ais affect the bike in any way(it does atleast as per the YT videos, which can't be easily trusted)? View attachment 313952

Misfire might occur.

 

[Jawajatt]

I believe, it leaves extra room for the valve, causing improper closure. Better get it reversed.

I had never come across a retainer washer, it is placed in the attached picture with the bulge facing outside. I couldn't find any video where the correct placement of the ais(ours is a different, from the videos found on yt) could be seen.
Would you know how to test the ais manually by blowing method? Or otherwise I just might replace it(costs about ₹500).

 

[deville_56]

I had never come across a retainer washer, it is placed in the attached picture with the bulge facing outside. I couldn't find any video where the correct placement of the ais(ours is a different, from the videos found on yt) could be seen.
Would you know how to test the ais manually by blowing method? Or otherwise I just might replace it(costs about ₹500).

Blow through either of the big inlets to check whether it's closing properly. There shouldn't be any leak.

 

[Shashankfz-fi]

what's the price of FZ Front forks tube?

 

[deville_56]

what's the price of FZ Front forks tube?

It was ₹ 1,240.00 back in 2015. Don't know the current price. Should be under 2k.

 

[Shashankfz-fi]

It was ₹ 1,240.00 back in 2015. Don't know the current price. Should be under 2k.

for a set of two pieces or one?

 

[Jawajatt]

November 2022 - Updates

Bought Valvoline 4T Premium 20W50. MRP ₹ 523.00, got for ₹ 410.00
The mechanic didn't mention changing oil. Just checked level before (attempting) oil change and it was fresh oil. Possibly MAK 20W40 mineral, which he stocks in barrel. Kept the Valvoline in the shelf for the time being.

View attachment 313103 View attachment 313104 View attachment 313105 View attachment 313106

Don't know how every mechanic manage to do this

View attachment 313112

Had all them with me.

View attachment 313107

Straight Screw Plug - 90340-14117 - ₹ 11.00

View attachment 313110

Straight Screw Plug - 90340-32805 - ₹ 13.00

View attachment 313111

O-Ring (Big) - 93210-32813₹ - 18.00

View attachment 313108

O-Ring (Small) - 93210-14899 - ₹ 9.00

View attachment 313109

Had no tools with me. Borrowed an old chisel from the neighbour. Steel scale was perfect.

View attachment 313113

Simple unscrew.

View attachment 313114

Old vs new.

View attachment 313115 View attachment 313116

Installed. Why can't an experienced mechanic do the same?

View attachment 313117

Soot on the plug. Might've happened pre-valve replacement. Installed a less used clean OE NGK plug to check before getting a new plug.

View attachment 313118

Hit 154k. Took 3 months for the 1000.

View attachment 313119

Battery band, rusted, but factory stock.

View attachment 313120

Side panel had cracking. Fixed by the Chinese YouTube fix. Needs replacement.

View attachment 313121

Washed and lube.

View attachment 313122

November 2022 - Updates

Bought Valvoline 4T Premium 20W50. MRP ₹ 523.00, got for ₹ 410.00
The mechanic didn't mention changing oil. Just checked level before (attempting) oil change and it was fresh oil. Possibly MAK 20W40 mineral, which he stocks in barrel. Kept the Valvoline in the shelf for the time being.

View attachment 313103 View attachment 313104 View attachment 313105 View attachment 313106

Don't know how every mechanic manage to do this

View attachment 313112

Had all them with me.

View attachment 313107

Straight Screw Plug - 90340-14117 - ₹ 11.00

View attachment 313110

Straight Screw Plug - 90340-32805 - ₹ 13.00

View attachment 313111

O-Ring (Big) - 93210-32813₹ - 18.00

View attachment 313108

O-Ring (Small) - 93210-14899 - ₹ 9.00

View attachment 313109

Had no tools with me. Borrowed an old chisel from the neighbour. Steel scale was perfect.

View attachment 313113

Simple unscrew.

View attachment 313114

Old vs new.

View attachment 313115 View attachment 313116

Installed. Why can't an experienced mechanic do the same?

View attachment 313117

Soot on the plug. Might've happened pre-valve replacement. Installed a less used clean OE NGK plug to check before getting a new plug.

View attachment 313118

Hit 154k. Took 3 months for the 1000.

View attachment 313119

Battery band, rusted, but factory stock.

View attachment 313120

Side panel had cracking. Fixed by the Chinese YouTube fix. Needs replacement.

View attachment 313121

Washed and lube.

View attachment 313122

Side panel had cracking. Fixed by the Chinese YouTube fix. Needs replacement.

Same issue, with the side panels, what's the Chinese fix? I tried fevi quick but failed miserably.

Bought Valvoline 4T Premium 20W50. MRP ₹ 523.00, got for ₹ 410.00

I'm changing the engine oil tomorrow, have yet to purchase it.
I have a few questions on engine oil, as I would be replacing by myself for the first time, if you may :-
a) What is the manufacturer recommended oil(I couldn't find my manual but I think it was 20w40 & 20w50)?
b) Is yamalube a mineral or semi synthetic? If former, why doesn't Yamaha recommend semi/fully synth oils if they are considered to be better?
c) What is the quantity of oil that is to be put in (with & without oil filter)? And is dripping the filter in oil required/recommended?

 

[deville_56]

for a set of two pieces or one?

Single tube.

Same issue, with the side panels, what's the Chinese fix? I tried fevi quick but failed miserably.

Replaced soldering iron bit with a star screw and soldered the broken part from behind. Just temporary fix. I might replace sooner or later.

a) What is the manufacturer recommended oil(I couldn't find my manual but I think it was 20w40 & 20w50)?

First version had 20W40 per book and the updated version had 20W50. Had option of 15W50 semisynthetic for R15 from dealer itself.

b) Is yamalube a mineral or semi synthetic? If former, why doesn't Yamaha recommend semi/fully synth oils if they are considered to be better?

Yamalube for FZ was mineral, Yamalube SL 20W40. Most OEMs opts mineral for cost benefit. As said above, they silently gave an option to use R15 oil, which was semisynthetic. Newer versions from version 2 came with 10W40, mineral for FZ/SZ series and fully synthetic for premium bikes, which the former can opt for without affecting the warranty, and costs just ₹50 more, but sadly not compatible with our version. Initial Yamalubes were all repacked Motul 3000 and 5100 before switching the vendor.

c) What is the quantity of oil that is to be put in (with & without oil filter)? And is dripping the filter in oil required/recommended?

With filter, 1.1 L and without filter, 1 L, but ASC and mechanics pour only a litre with filter change as oil came in 1 L pack. Soaking the filter is recommended per manual and eases up circulation.