Barricade - Yamaha FZ-16 (2009) - Midnight Black

[deville_56]

September 2022 - Updates

Random shots to start with.

Signs of vapour leak.

Dipstick O-Ring - 93210-19809 - ₹ 6.00

Hardly any noticeable difference from old worn ring.

New ring installed.

Got new clutch lever yoke (holder) as there was play in the lever.

Lever Holder LH - 5YY-H2911-02 - ₹ 145.00

Clutch Lever Bolt - ₹ 6.00

Installation. Grip and switch needs to be removed as the holder can only be slid out through the side. Undid the clutch cable and removed the mirror.

Removing clutch switch. Just a push in the notch with a screwdriver.

Clutch switch. No issue so far.

Old bolt didn't have any issue.

Installed.

Clutch Cable - 21C-F6335-04 - ₹ 210.00

The old one was rusty and return was hard. Cable was less than 2 years old. Post-replacement, clutch became super light.

Drenched in rain.

Diwali smoke bombs

 

[ThankaN ChettaN]

Barricade as new as always

 

[deville_56]

October 2022 - Timing Chain Tensioner and Rocker Arm Replacement

Barricade had some tappet/timing chain noise and needed adjustment. FZ had a OE Yamaha, but non-FZ timing chain tensioner installed by one of the Yamaha mechanics and another guy misplaced its rubber cover causing oil leak and noise. Told the former to replace it twice with original FZ part, which he never did. Wanted to replace it before going for adjustments, as I doubted he would consider my third request or might replace with the same non-FZ adjuster as he is fond of saving little pounds for his customers.

Got the tensioner from neighbourhood store, who now stocks Yamaha OE spares also.

Cam Chain Tensioner - 21C-E2210-02 - ₹ 190.00

Content of the package.

Tensioner set at its zero position and locked with the adjuster. Removing the adjuster will release it to full tension on the chain.

Locked position.

Released position. Adjusting the tension was simple, tightening the screw would bring the tensioner to neutral position and removing the adjuster/screwdriver will push it back to full tension, and it keeps the cam chain in tension. Shot a video on that, but can't find now.

Forgot about packing. Individual packing was not available at the neighbourhood store and with the Yamaha shop closed by now, bought a (non-OE) full gasket kit from him. I can't control my impulse purchases.

Full Gasket Kit - Victor VGP-1676-A1 - ₹ 140.00

Tensioner and the needed gasket.

New vs. old. FZ OE part was black while the installed part was silver, which was kicking my OCD since the day of install. Mechanics managed to jam pack it with gasket maker and turned out they never installed the gasket. I lost track of who did what.

Gap difference between both of them.

Installed the tensioner, no pics. Nowadays, misses clicking final snaps.

My next confusion was the guy to fix the noise. First, I took it to the veteran Yamaha mechanic. He said nothing wrong with the bike, but I trusted my ears more than him. Then I met with the Yamaha SVC SA while getting parts and he was 2-3 km from my home and fixes commuter bikes at home. He didn't sound confident with the task, and I forgot saving his number. Third was the Vinayaka Honda, where I give all the gearless scooters and did fork oil change for Barricade a couple of times. I was sceptical about his skills on Yamaha engines. He told instantly that the rocker arm bearings are gone, reason being low oil. It was Motul 5100 this time, which usually won't drop that much. He warned about scars on cylinder block as a result. Replaced rocker arms, engine oil, and reset the valves and set the timing. Total bill was ₹ 1,200.00.

Spotted this Gulf Blue FZ-S there. Done by the same guy who painted our Dio and Kiney.

 

[Rajram]

Brother it is possible to change v2 meter in v1 most of the keralite change v2 meter. My question i changee v2 meter in my v1 fz it can work

 

[deville_56]

Brother it is possible to change v2 meter in v1 most of the keralite change v2 meter. My question i changee v2 meter in my v1 fz it can work

V2 meter is direct fit on V1, same connector, but rpm won't work in some models, especially the older ones. Heard that can be solved by making slight modification in wiring, but don't know how. Try borrowing a meter or a scrapped meter before buying new one to make sure.

 

[Rajram]

V2 meter is direct fit on V1, same connector, but rpm won't work in some models, especially the older ones. Heard that can be solved by making slight modification in wiring, but don't know how. Try borrowing a meter or a scrapped meter before buying new one to make sure.

Brother i checked 1 wks before.all are working fine(indicator,fuelmeter,meter light,highbeam light,engine warning light,speedometer km/h,neutral light,) only rpm signal is not generated. How to generate a signal from rpm meter
any tips brother

modified v2 meter

 

[deville_56]

Brother i checked 1 wks before.all are working fine(indicator,fuelmeter,meter light,highbeam light,engine warning light,speedometer km/h,neutral light,) only rpm signal is not generated. How to generate a signal from rpm meter
any tips brother

Nope. Nobody willing to share the trick. Not open like us.

 

[Auto_Psycho]

@deville_56 Bro, why did you switch from 20W50 to 10W40?
Does the engine seem to run a bit harsh when running 20W40?

The reason I am asking this is that my FZ has done 35,000 km so far, and I am using 20W50.
For a while now, there has been backfiring from the engine to the air filter at times...
Sometimes the engine goes off with a popping sound...
- Carburettor, spark plug, and air filter have been changed.
-SAI System is closed.
- Checked the valve clearance, and it is ok.

Despite doing all this, the back firing issue has not cleared yet, apart from the "famous missing issue" being solved.
So finally yesterday, I decided to disassemble the cylinder head and check the valves for any leak or something, and this is what I saw when I took off the cylinder head..

What is the reason for such a terrible score on an engine that has run only 35K km?
Could it be that the viscosity of the 20W50 oil does not provide enough lubrication quickly on cold starts? Or could there be some other reason? What do you think?

 

[deville_56]

@deville_56 Bro, why did you switch from 20W50 to 10W40?
Does the engine seem to run a bit harsh when running 20W40?

The reason I am asking this is that my FZ has done 35,000 km so far, and I am using 20W50.
For a while now, there has been backfiring from the engine to the air filter at times...
Sometimes the engine goes off with a popping sound...
- Carburettor, spark plug, and air filter have been changed.
-SAI System is closed.
- Checked the valve clearance, and it is ok.

Despite doing all this, the back firing issue has not cleared yet, apart from the "famous missing issue" being solved.
So finally yesterday, I decided to disassemble the cylinder head and check the valves for any leak or something, and this is what I saw when I took off the cylinder head..

View attachment 311419
View attachment 311420
View attachment 311421
View attachment 311422
What is the reason for such a terrible score on an engine that has run only 35K km?
Could it be that the viscosity of the 20W50 oil does not provide enough lubrication quickly on cold starts? Or could there be some other reason? What do you think?

Using 10W40 always invited trouble, so been sticking with 15 or 20 grades whenever possible.

Didn't notice any specific harshness with 20W40. During the work done on the last post, they used MAK 4T20W40 from the barrel, and it was butter smooth (but level dropped to half at 2.5k km, but the smoothness remained).

The most common reason for carb build up on FZ is the infamous choke cable jamming, the reason I ditched that.

I too have that pop in the carb issue on first start. Clueless as to why (even mechanics). Suspect may be compression or carb related. Cold start rpm wound be less than 1k and it shuts off if I don't maintain 1.5k rpm. Won't start without choke thereafter. No issue after warming up. Clocked 30-35k on new cylinder kit. Ran in properly and changed oil in time, but still developed scores similarly.

 

[Auto_Psycho]

The most common reason for carb build up on FZ is the infamous choke cable jamming, the reason I ditched that.

No, no, I'm not talking about that carbon buildup. Did you notice the amount of oil in that carbon buildup? A healthy engine should have no traces of oil above the piston.
Also, considering the scoring inside the cylinder and the oil content on top of the piston, I wonder if this could be due to a problem with the piston rings?
For Reference:

I too have that pop in the carb issue on first start. Clueless as to why (even mechanics). Suspect may be compression or carb related.

Have you tried replacing the vacuum hose that goes from the carburetor to the SAI system? I have heard that even if there is a very small leak in it, this popping issue will occur...
(This may not be the only reason for that issue, but it is also a major reason.)
Vaccum Hose

Clocked 30-35k on new cylinder kit. Ran in properly and changed oil in time, but still developed scores similarly.

So this is a common issue..

 

[deville_56]

No, no, I'm not talking about that carbon buildup. Did you notice the amount of oil in that carbon buildup? A healthy engine should have no traces of oil above the piston.
Also, considering the scoring inside the cylinder and the oil content on top of the piston, I wonder if this could be due to a problem with the piston rings?
For Reference:
View attachment 311451
View attachment 311452

Have you tried replacing the vacuum hose that goes from the carburetor to the SAI system? I have heard that even if there is a very small leak in it, this popping issue will occur...
(This may not be the only reason for that issue, but it is also a major reason.)
Vaccum Hose
View attachment 311453

So this is a common issue..

Oil on top can be failed rings.

All hoses are factory stock except the fuel lines. Will check availability and replace any way.

 

[Shashankfz-fi]

Good sets of Tyre for Yamaha FZ V2?

 

[deville_56]

Good sets of Tyre for Yamaha FZ V2?

If staying stock size, Michelin Pilot Street 2 is good. Apollo got rear size in Alpha series, but not front. After ban, stickier tyres have become rare.

 

[Shashankfz-fi]

If staying stock size, Michelin Pilot Street 2 is good. Apollo got rear size in Alpha series, but not front. After ban, stickier tyres have become rare.

Yes, I'm also confused between Michelin and Apollo. and I think staying stock is best because upsizing will affect the performance and mileage.
also what about spark plug currently using G-Power CPR8EAGP-9 thinking about upgrading it to Iridium. what's your opinion?

 

[deville_56]

Yes, I'm also confused between Michelin and Apollo. and I think staying stock is best because upsizing will affect the performance and mileage.
also what about spark plug currently using G-Power CPR8EAGP-9 thinking about upgrading it to Iridium. what's your opinion?

There won't be significant difference between G-Power and Iridium with normal use. Iridium will last longer, but G-Power only costs 1/3rd the price.