Wow this is great news. Thank you very much.
Barricade - Yamaha FZ-16 (2009) - Midnight Black
- Thread Starter deville_56
- Start date
Wow this is great news. Thank you very much.
Thread Starter
#542
June 2021 - AIS (Air Induction System) (Repairing and) Cleaning
AIS is one of the most ignored part in the bike (so did I), some end up bypassing it when it starts misfiring. It's a small diaphragmatic valve controlled by intake pressure differences and feed clean air to exhaust port to burn off unburned fuel especially at lower rpms and decelerating. Faulty one would end up acting like an EGR valve feeding exhaust gas into the air filter box and into the intake. Never cleaned in my bike, kept postponing, until a friend asked doubts about cleaning (which I had no clue of).
To start with, it can be accessed by removing the RH tank panel.
Access is hindered in my case with the after-market horn.
Disconnected and removed the horn and found it was secured with the missing engine casing bolt![[frustration]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Frustration.gif "Frustration [frustration]")
@n_g_rjun
The AIS. Has 3 hoses, small one to intake manifold which controls the whole system. Other two goes to air filter box and exhaust port.
Disconnect all of them and remove the 10-mm bolt.
And it will come off.
Four screws hold them to the clamp as well as secures the cover. Removing them opens up the AIS as well.
Base part where exhaust port connects. Coal-like debris.
Reed valve set up on the top part. Partially blocked with debris as well. Clean these two and you are good to go in normal case,
but on the other side I see an O-ring and a retainer washer. Something is not right.
It was oily all over.
Popped open the side cover and found the air shut off valve fallen off. This might be the reason for untraced oil depletion and/or quick plug darkening, but the reed valve in between made that theory speculative.
Opened the intake manifold-fed side. It's spring-loaded and negative pressure/suction force from intake manifold pulls the diaphragm outwards.
The shaft on the other end is where the fallen valve belongs.
Found the location of the o-ring.
Installed back the valve and secured with the retainer washer.
Normal/open position. Free flow of air to exhaust port.
Shut off position, when activated. This blocks air flow. At higher rpm, suction force will be high at intake manifold, pulling the diaphragm in, shutting off this valve. Pressure will be high at exhaust port too, causing reverse flow into filter box, which is blocked by this valve.
Cleaning up. Reed can be disassembled by removing the bolt.
Base and rubber lining can be separated and cleaned conveniently.
All cleaned and ready to install.
Reed assembled.
Cleaning the muck on the base.
Sprayed some throttle-body cleaner and wiped off. Effortless and effective.
Work in progress.
Spring on the diaphragm side.
Assembled and ready to install.
Rubber piping to exhaust port. Cleaned that with diesel and some TB cleaner.
Exhaust port outlet. When disconnected, makes mild FFE/induction-like noise. Commonly seen blocked with bearing balls especially in commuter bikes and Unicorns even by ASC.
Installed and all tubes connected.
This is where the tube connects to the intake manifold.
and where it meets the air filter box. Other tube is for crankcase ventilation. It's been a long since stripped and cleaned the bike. Full of dirt.
New flange bolt for horn/tank mounting.
Thread gone in one of the tank cover nut springs.
The ₹80 Yamaha part I have been saving for years. Heard new ones are cheaper.
Pulsar fairing bolts. Cheap and of good quality.
Checked air filter box for oil and there was just a trace.
All set and done.
AIS is one of the most ignored part in the bike (so did I), some end up bypassing it when it starts misfiring. It's a small diaphragmatic valve controlled by intake pressure differences and feed clean air to exhaust port to burn off unburned fuel especially at lower rpms and decelerating. Faulty one would end up acting like an EGR valve feeding exhaust gas into the air filter box and into the intake. Never cleaned in my bike, kept postponing, until a friend asked doubts about cleaning (which I had no clue of).
To start with, it can be accessed by removing the RH tank panel.
Access is hindered in my case with the after-market horn.
Disconnected and removed the horn and found it was secured with the missing engine casing bolt
@n_g_rjun The AIS. Has 3 hoses, small one to intake manifold which controls the whole system. Other two goes to air filter box and exhaust port.
Disconnect all of them and remove the 10-mm bolt.
And it will come off.
Four screws hold them to the clamp as well as secures the cover. Removing them opens up the AIS as well.
Base part where exhaust port connects. Coal-like debris.
Reed valve set up on the top part. Partially blocked with debris as well. Clean these two and you are good to go in normal case,
but on the other side I see an O-ring and a retainer washer. Something is not right.
It was oily all over.
Popped open the side cover and found the air shut off valve fallen off. This might be the reason for untraced oil depletion and/or quick plug darkening, but the reed valve in between made that theory speculative.
Opened the intake manifold-fed side. It's spring-loaded and negative pressure/suction force from intake manifold pulls the diaphragm outwards.
The shaft on the other end is where the fallen valve belongs.
Found the location of the o-ring.
Installed back the valve and secured with the retainer washer.
Normal/open position. Free flow of air to exhaust port.
Shut off position, when activated. This blocks air flow. At higher rpm, suction force will be high at intake manifold, pulling the diaphragm in, shutting off this valve. Pressure will be high at exhaust port too, causing reverse flow into filter box, which is blocked by this valve.
Cleaning up. Reed can be disassembled by removing the bolt.
Base and rubber lining can be separated and cleaned conveniently.
All cleaned and ready to install.
Reed assembled.
Cleaning the muck on the base.
Sprayed some throttle-body cleaner and wiped off. Effortless and effective.
Work in progress.
Spring on the diaphragm side.
Assembled and ready to install.
Rubber piping to exhaust port. Cleaned that with diesel and some TB cleaner.
Exhaust port outlet. When disconnected, makes mild FFE/induction-like noise. Commonly seen blocked with bearing balls especially in commuter bikes and Unicorns even by ASC.
Installed and all tubes connected.
This is where the tube connects to the intake manifold.
and where it meets the air filter box. Other tube is for crankcase ventilation. It's been a long since stripped and cleaned the bike. Full of dirt.
New flange bolt for horn/tank mounting.
Thread gone in one of the tank cover nut springs.
The ₹80 Yamaha part I have been saving for years. Heard new ones are cheaper.
Pulsar fairing bolts. Cheap and of good quality.
Checked air filter box for oil and there was just a trace.
All set and done.
Thread Starter
#543
June 2021 - New Plugs
Replaced plugs right after cleaning the AIS. Bought NGK G-Power as always.
NGK G-Power CPR8EAGP-9 - ₹ 265.00
Got for ₹ 255.00 from NGK dealer, Amruth Auto Spares.
Night Bath.
Replaced plugs right after cleaning the AIS. Bought NGK G-Power as always.
NGK G-Power CPR8EAGP-9 - ₹ 265.00
Got for ₹ 255.00 from NGK dealer, Amruth Auto Spares.
Night Bath.
Thread Starter
#544
September 2021 - Another Milestone
Hits 1'50'000 km.
Hits 1'50'000 km.
I always wanted to have a DRL in my FZS after the BS4 made DRLs compulsary. Almost all 2 wheelers I see have DRLs now and it feels odd to see bikes without DRLs. I had already installed a T10 white LED in the position lamp of the headlight but I had to turn on the light manually everytime and it made the rear number plate light also to light up, which I didn't like.
Decided to get a direct connection to the position light today.
I saw the H4 headlight upgrade here and thought I'll do the same. Since I had to remove the headlight I thought l will also do some wiring for the DRL.
Got 12v by tapping the front brake light switch wire and replaced the position lamp 12v supply with that. Sealed off the actual 12v of the position lamp. Don't use the negative of the brake light switch as it'll turn off the position lamp while applying brake. Use the existing negative of the postion lamp.
Result.
The position lamp LED turns on as soon as the key is turned to ignition.
Decided to get a direct connection to the position light today.
I saw the H4 headlight upgrade here and thought I'll do the same. Since I had to remove the headlight I thought l will also do some wiring for the DRL.
Got 12v by tapping the front brake light switch wire and replaced the position lamp 12v supply with that. Sealed off the actual 12v of the position lamp. Don't use the negative of the brake light switch as it'll turn off the position lamp while applying brake. Use the existing negative of the postion lamp.
Result.
The position lamp LED turns on as soon as the key is turned to ignition.
Thread Starter
#546
October 2021 - Updates
It has been two years since replacing the rear brake shoes. Bite was still good, but the adjuster reached the end. Less than 8k km clocked. Bought the brake shoes from A-One Auto Spares. Springs were not available. He recommended reusing old ones if not damaged.
Brake Shoe Set - 1GC-F530K-00 - ₹ 281.00
Made by ASK
Wheel collars, bought before COVID hit our shore. Never installed, either I'd be lazy or they would go missing.
RH/brake drum side - 21C-F5383-10 - ₹ 36.00
LH/sprocket side - 21C-F5377-01 - ₹ 39.00
Disassembled.
Old shoes. Still messing with the drum even after replacing the cam.
Damage and shaving. Too much tempted for a rear disc conversion, but put on hold, don't know for how long.
Brake dust - musk - messy.
Disassembled for cleaning and greasing the cam.
Old vs new shoes.
Saved the springs
and installed on the new set.
Collars - New vs. old.
New upgraded part, maybe shared with FZ version 2.
Mounted.
All set.
Front wheel wasn't holding air and I was cursing the usual audience for their nasty tricks,
but it turned out to be a faulty valve. Since it was well over 10 years, I decided to replace them, but the tyre shop clan were too lazy for the noon and they checked and replaced the valve pin and sorted the issue, but the wish to replace the valves still stuck behind the head![[cry]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Cry.gif "Cry [cry]")
Bath time.
Turtle Wax.
Good old TriboCor. Used them up for the sake of throwing away the can.
Frothy and sticky. Longest lasting lube used till date.
Roam around.
It has been two years since replacing the rear brake shoes. Bite was still good, but the adjuster reached the end. Less than 8k km clocked. Bought the brake shoes from A-One Auto Spares. Springs were not available. He recommended reusing old ones if not damaged.
Brake Shoe Set - 1GC-F530K-00 - ₹ 281.00
Made by ASK
Wheel collars, bought before COVID hit our shore. Never installed, either I'd be lazy or they would go missing.
RH/brake drum side - 21C-F5383-10 - ₹ 36.00
LH/sprocket side - 21C-F5377-01 - ₹ 39.00
Disassembled.
Old shoes. Still messing with the drum even after replacing the cam.
Damage and shaving. Too much tempted for a rear disc conversion, but put on hold, don't know for how long.
Brake dust - musk - messy.
Disassembled for cleaning and greasing the cam.
Old vs new shoes.
Saved the springs
and installed on the new set.
Collars - New vs. old.
New upgraded part, maybe shared with FZ version 2.
Mounted.
All set.
Front wheel wasn't holding air and I was cursing the usual audience for their nasty tricks,
but it turned out to be a faulty valve. Since it was well over 10 years, I decided to replace them, but the tyre shop clan were too lazy for the noon and they checked and replaced the valve pin and sorted the issue, but the wish to replace the valves still stuck behind the head
Bath time.
Turtle Wax.
Good old TriboCor. Used them up for the sake of throwing away the can.
Frothy and sticky. Longest lasting lube used till date.
Roam around.
Thread Starter
#548
Yes. V2 alloy + caliper makes it a direct fit job, the only headache remains adding the stopper in the swingarm and mounting and connecting the rear MC and reservoir. V2 alloy costs 5k. Milling an adapter can save 80% of that.
Man, must say this has to be the MOST EXHAUSTIVE thread on the FZ anywhere. Its amazing how you've been constantly updating it. Cheers!!
Have heard lots of FZ owners say that carb on this thing requires constant fiddling. Your comments?
Have heard lots of FZ owners say that carb on this thing requires constant fiddling. Your comments?
Thread Starter
#550
Thank you, thank you ![[:D]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Big%20Smile.gif "Big Smile [:D]")
.
FZ carb has been an unsolved mystery for many, especially the first version. Not even the best mechanics weren't able to sort out the missing issue. I never messed with the setting of the carb, though was very much tempted to tune it from day 1. Swapping with carb with Pulsar 180 and 200 NS, most have relieved the missing and mileage issues.
.FZ carb has been an unsolved mystery for many, especially the first version. Not even the best mechanics weren't able to sort out the missing issue. I never messed with the setting of the carb, though was very much tempted to tune it from day 1. Swapping with carb with Pulsar 180 and 200 NS, most have relieved the missing and mileage issues.
Thread Starter
#551
November 2021 – My Boy Turns 12
Birthday special wash.
Renewed insurance with Acko.
IDV - ₹24,425.00
TP - ₹752.00
OD - ₹126.00
NCB - 50% - ₹-63.00
Net Premium - ₹961.00 including 18% GST
Birthday special wash.
Renewed insurance with Acko.
IDV - ₹24,425.00
TP - ₹752.00
OD - ₹126.00
NCB - 50% - ₹-63.00
Net Premium - ₹961.00 including 18% GST
Thread Starter
#552
February 2022 - Oil Change and Misc Updates
Switched back to my favourite Motul 5100. We parted away due to the cost factor as price was going up insanely compared to other brands. I was on oil hunt and there was a pull towards 5100, and they gave a sweet ₹100 discount. Now Made in India. Earlier used to be Made in France and later Made in Vietnam.
Motul 5100 15W50 - Semi-Synthetic - MRP ₹ 630.00
Got for ₹ 530.00 from Ex-Jawan lubricants.
Draining. Castrol Power 1 Cruise.
Almost a litre. Topped up 200 ml 2 months back and ran 1000 km.
Oil filter change. Wasn't required, just over 4k km run on that filter. Usually change them every two oil changes instead of the recommended 10k interval.
Oil filter. 100% price inflation since 2009. It was only ₹35.00 then.
Made by Mahle (Purolator)
Soaked with oil
and installed.
Oil filter cover and O-ring.
Drain bolt secured.
Filling up.
Waiting for the last drop.
Footrest Bolt aka Curb Feeler - 90109-08202 - ₹ 23.00
Mine fell off somewhere. It was loose because of a slight crack in the foot peg. Forgot buying new foot peg
Installed.
Bought exhaust cover. Current one got a deep hole in it from rubbing over a divider. FZ version 1 specific parts are being discontinued one by one. Exhaust cover got 2 parts, the smaller part wasn't available.
Muffler Protector - 121C-E4718-10 - ₹ 301.00
2021 make.
Switched back to my favourite Motul 5100. We parted away due to the cost factor as price was going up insanely compared to other brands. I was on oil hunt and there was a pull towards 5100, and they gave a sweet ₹100 discount. Now Made in India. Earlier used to be Made in France and later Made in Vietnam.
Motul 5100 15W50 - Semi-Synthetic - MRP ₹ 630.00
Got for ₹ 530.00 from Ex-Jawan lubricants.
Draining. Castrol Power 1 Cruise.
Almost a litre. Topped up 200 ml 2 months back and ran 1000 km.
Oil filter change. Wasn't required, just over 4k km run on that filter. Usually change them every two oil changes instead of the recommended 10k interval.
Oil filter. 100% price inflation since 2009. It was only ₹35.00 then.
Made by Mahle (Purolator)
Soaked with oil
and installed.
Oil filter cover and O-ring.
Drain bolt secured.
Filling up.
Waiting for the last drop.
Footrest Bolt aka Curb Feeler - 90109-08202 - ₹ 23.00
Mine fell off somewhere. It was loose because of a slight crack in the foot peg. Forgot buying new foot peg
Installed.
Bought exhaust cover. Current one got a deep hole in it from rubbing over a divider. FZ version 1 specific parts are being discontinued one by one. Exhaust cover got 2 parts, the smaller part wasn't available.
Muffler Protector - 121C-E4718-10 - ₹ 301.00
2021 make.
Last edited:
Thread Starter
#553
February 2022 - Misc Update
While updating/checking the Google Sheet, the air filter was also nearing replacement. Bought one right away.
Air Filter - 21C-E4450-00 - ₹ 280.00
Unnecessary second cover.
Old vs new.
Installed.
While updating/checking the Google Sheet, the air filter was also nearing replacement. Bought one right away.
Air Filter - 21C-E4450-00 - ₹ 280.00
Unnecessary second cover.
Old vs new.
Installed.
Although new is good to have. Economical too but looks like the old filter has lots of life still left.
Thread Starter
#555
Yeah. Less dusty here. Yamaha recommends replacing every 10k km. OCD kicks in by that time ![[lol]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Laugh.gif "Laugh [lol]")