The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [210+ BHP Remap]

[A.G.]

Re: The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [28K Kms Crossed]

Elaborating my previous comment, the Service Manual says that if the incorrect body type is set, the correct possible cruising distance cannot be displayed.

The second option of the service mode 'Destination' was found to be correct and I did not interfere with the rest of the modes namely 'Function Type Reset' and 'Prof Circle Del' as they were functioning perfectly.

Don't know about new Pajero Sport which have factory fitted MID but the dealer installed MID like in my Pajero Sport had body type set to TRITON/STRADA/L200. The L200 has 5 liters bigger fuel tank and is lighter by around 180 Kgs which could be the reason for the difference in the readings. Surprisingly, the Service Manual I have for the Pajero Sport says that the body type is to be set to TRITON/STRADA/L200. Still I changed it to Pajero Sport and found the range readings to be more inline with actual while didn't get a chance to compare the FE readings.

To change the body type on the MID, do the following:
1. With the ignition switch at the "LOCK" (OFF) position, press the [ADJ] button.
2. With the [ADJ] button being pressed, turn the ignition switch to the "ACC"or "ON" position, and hold the [ADJ] button for five seconds or more.
3. The service mode is started, and the "Service Menu" and "Display Setting" screens are displayed.
4. Press the [ADJ] button on the "Display Setting menu" screen. The "BODY TYPE" screen is displayed, and the body type currently set is indicated.
5. To change the body type, press the [SELECT] button.
6. Press [→] or [←] button to display the correct body type.
7. Press [SET] button to save settings.
8. When the screen returns to the "BODY TYPE" screen, check that the body type is set correctly.
9. Turn the ignition switch to the "LOCK" (OFF) position to terminate the service mode forcibly.

Disclaimer: Perform the above at your own risk.

 

[Iron Rock]

Re: The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [28K Kms Crossed]

AG performed at my own risk





I will keep an eye if anything changes in the next few cycles. To be honest this is going to be hard to accurately quantify

 

[A.G.]

Re: The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [28K Kms Crossed]

Glad that you took the risk . Hopefully, the first change you would notice would be in the value of range. Looking forward to your experience.

 

[Iron Rock]

Re: The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [28K Kms Crossed]

Not much updates for a while as i have been busy travelling (not in the PS though unfortunately)

The latest odo reading is close to 30K km, and the last full tank was a very healthy 13.4 kmpl.

Installed a TPMS system on the Pajero Sport thanks to recommendation from A.G :- it was hardly a 5 min job to install it as the sensors are external. Shows temperature and pressure in two different units.
Here is the link to a more detailed review

1) Charge the unit (via solar or charger) , it has a mini solar panel on the back.
2) Place it on the windshield using the 3M tape
3) Screw the 4 sensors on the tyres and use the lock nut so that they don't come off.

Precaution :- Make sure the lock nut is fastened well with the sensor or you are guaranteed to lose the sensor on your drives.

 

[Iron Rock]

Re: The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [30K Kms Crossed]

Finally had the chance to put back the SD card of the maps which i had got updated in early Jan!!
It has the latest map my india updates(which the new PS these days have), haven't used it much but i can see it already has a lot more land marks in this (including my residence named) - so looks like a worthy thing to do in case i forget where i live - it cost me some 900rs or so (don't exactly remember). It can be done at the map my india outlet in your cities. You simply need to hand them over the SD card from your unit (which is hidden deep inside passenger side glovebox towards the centre



Also chugging also closing 31k now - the FE has been decently hovering above the 13kmpl mark for the last several full tanks

 

[Iron Rock]

Re: The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [30K Kms Crossed]

The vehicle all of a sudden started beeping day before yesterday in the evening while driving, i was clueless, no nothing on the dashboard. Then the tube light lit - it was the TPMS blinking as well - rear right tyre was losing pressure fast 28-26-24psi ..... 20 psi by the time i reached a local tyrewalla.

Losing 10 PSI on a tyre this size has no effect on the steering in city drives, so if not for the tpms i would have realized a little late only - so the tpms has been a great advantage and now proven its worth. It also bought me the time to drive a little quicker to the nearest puncturewalla so that i don't have to do the hard work myself on a hot day(another advantage of tpms) .

Turned out to be a nail in the tyre, looks like my plan for a tyre upgrade will happen much before i forecasted. The stock Apollo's really fall off a cliff after the 25k mark - real sissies!

 

[A.G.]

Re: The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [30K Kms Crossed]

Turned out to be a nail in the tyre, looks like my plan for a tyre upgrade will happen much before i forecasted. The stock Apollo's really fall off a cliff after the 25k mark - real sissies!

Great to know that the TPMS is doing what it's supposed to do. On the question of tyres, how many kms do you think the current set will hold for before needing a replacement?

 

[Iron Rock]

Re: The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [31K Kms Crossed]

sirji the honest answer is how much the owner will be able to resist before upgrading the set - it depends on the owners patience. I dont think i will last beyond 50k, that too i feel on the higher side, the tyres might last i might not.

 

[Iron Rock]

Re: The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [34K Kms Crossed]

I havent updated in a while, its been a really boring ownership - there is no difference in the vehicle from the day i bought till date - just keeps doing its business.

I recently did a Service 4.5/ 30 months as i call it - as its a minor service(6 monthly) to preserve warranty :-

It costed me 575 Rs()

Just general checkup, top up, torquing and washing. Overall crossed the 37k mark in 2.5 years so far.

Some pictures attached from recent times, as usual its digging holes, getting out and trying to mingle with fellow brethren like the tractor in rescue escapades etc

 

[apsgaur]

Re: The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [37K Kms Crossed]

I have finally booked a deep blue PS Manual 4X4. The delivery would be in first/second week of Oct. It was my dream machine.
Will update further once get the delivery.

 

[Iron Rock]

Re: The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [37K Kms Crossed]

Congratulations i really like that color. Even the dual tone of that looks great.
Look forward to the pictures and wish you many many safe miles.

 

[Speed-Gladiator]

Re: The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [37K Kms Crossed]

Hello Iron Rock, nice ownership review, one of the rare detailed ownership review covering all the aspects of a wonderful car. When I was in a hunt for a family off roader, I was completely neglecting about this, and was considering only Endeavour and Fortuner. Finally ended up buying the pre-owned 2014 19K driven Pajero sport. All because of your review thread and the ownership thread here. I am quite happy with the decision. However I am facing one peculiar issues with the car.

In one ward I would say "almost the same issue as our fellow member "Chethak" facing", ie there is a vibration with a "Grrr sound" from the drivetrain while going through the humps or doing the sudden acceleration. I am facing the same, even on a highway with a bit of undulations. This will happen only when the accelerator is pressed during the above scenarios. I can re-frame the issues in a different way. "I am facing a drivetrain vibrations when the suspension is compressed and the gas pedal is pressed".

I have gone through all the posts by Chethak, and came to know that he has swapped the propeller shaft and rear differentials, but still the problem persists.
I have done some research on this and found that this kind of vibrations are happening because of the pinion angle is not being set properly. this will be affected mostly by the lifted SUVs because of the raised suspension. But the same will occur if there is a height difference in the transmission due the worn out/defective transmission mount. (I am facing a strange/Excessive transmission shake during the acceleration and the mild off-roading).

please note that I am facing this issue only in 2WD mode. Which is self explanatory after reading he below article.

"Since the rear pinion moves up under acceleration ideally you set up the static pinion angle to be 1-2° below the transfer case output flange angle. This way, as the pinion twists up, it comes into a good alignment with the transfer case". Please see the full article explaining the drivetrain vibrations here - Driveline 101

I am yet to take my car to service center and get it verified on all these facts, I would like to put across you guys for a discussion before going there. Please pour in your opinion.
Thanks in advance

 

[Iron Rock]

Re: The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [37K Kms Crossed]

Glad to hear that sir and welcome to TAI, happy to hear you are a proud owner. Nothing like low run mitsubishi or a toyota, someone else took the depreciation hit and you eat the yummy cake - ha ha!

19k is next to nothing - its barely run in!

My guess of your problem (though its hard to guess from the description) - and what i have noticed is your exhaust which is dangling underneath (and open at one end) tends to move a bit more (obviously it has flex) when the suspension is compressed and at that time when you press the gas the exhaust vibrates as obviously you are pushing more gases through at the time of acceleration. The vibrations underneath make it feel as if its drive-train, usually seen in second/third gear picking up from lower speeds (not sure if that is your observation too )

I am not saying this is the what you are facing - but i have seen this with at-least 2 other owners who were equally perplexed and looking at everything else(including drive-train) and finally they agreed this is what it was!

you will need a person standing out and observing independently from outside when this occurs - i guess worth a try before trying out expensive drive-train experiments.

 

[Speed-Gladiator]

Re: The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [37K Kms Crossed]

Glad to hear that sir and welcome to TAI, happy to hear you are a proud owner.

Hi, thanks for welcoming me in to the great forum.

your exhaust which is dangling underneath (and open at one end) tends to move a bit more (obviously it has flex) when the suspension is compressed and at that time when you press the gas the exhaust vibrates as obviously you are pushing more gases through at the time of acceleration. The vibrations underneath make it feel as if its drive-train, usually seen in second/third gear picking up from lower speeds (not sure if that is your observation too )

I haven't really understand your above point, because, although the exhaust is dangling underneath, with one end open, it has been fixed to the body with a rubber mount, and is fixed with respect to the body/chassis. Also there is enough clearance with respect to suspension components on all the sides. Any how I will do another round of inspection on this aspect. My point is that, I am facing this problem only in 2WD, not in 4WD. How this can relate to the above exhaust thing ?. In 4wd, the force in the rear drive shaft will be 40% lesser.
Irrespective of the gear, speed and style of driving, I am facing this problem when the suspension is compressed (with gas pedal pressed/ propeller shaft driving the wheels). I tested it by going over the hump with gas pedal pressed in neutral gear, then there is no problem. That is why I re-iterated by saying "When wheels are driven by the force of the propeller shaft". I am also facing some excessive shake from the gear box and can be felt in the gear leaver when going through the mild off road trail and under acceleration. can you please confirm whether this is normal ?

I don't know whether you have gone through the link which I shared in the previous post, however I will quote some important points for the benefit of all, from the article here.

"Since the rear pinion moves up under acceleration ideally you set up the static pinion angle to be 1-2° below the transfer case output flange angle. This way, as the pinion twists up, it comes into a good alignment with the transfer case"

Vibrations that get worse say going uphill or accelerating at speed than when going the same speed on the flat or downhill, or vice versa, might be due to a slight alignment issue.
If worse uphill/accelerating, the lower u-joint angle may be moving too high as the axle and pinion tip up under load, if so, tip the static pinion angle down a little lower than it is now.
If worse downhill/decelerating, the lower u-joint angle may be moving too low as the axle and pinion tip down from the lessened load, if so, tip the static pinion angle up a little higher than it is now.
If you suspect vibration in the rear driveshaft, one way to isolate the cause of the problem is to remove the rear shaft, lock in the front hubs and test drive in 4H (basically Front Wheel Drive), assuming your transfer case and 4WD system allow this mode of operation. If the vibrations remain, you've just eliminated the rear shaft as the cause of the problem, its likely to be a bad bearing, bent axle, out of round (or balance) wheel/tire, or something in the engine or transmission. If the vibrations go away with the rear shaft removal, then its something in the rear drivetrain that is the cause, the transfer case output, rear shaft (and center bering if present), the single and/or double cardan joints, the pinion bearing and rear differential could all be the cause
If so, you probably want to fix it. How to fix it depends somewhat on what led to the problem in the first place.
• If your drive shaft is has been damaged off-road (bent or dented) then this can cause vibration as well, a common problem is that the small balancing weights on the shaft can get scraped off on an obstacle).
o If the shaft is damaged, it should be fixed.
• If any of the joints or slip yokes are worn (i.e. if you can feel any play in any part of the shaft by hand) this should also be fixed.
o For slightly loose joints, try greasing the joint well and see if it (temporarily) fixes the looseness and vibration.
o For a loose slip yoke, you can try injecting grease at the grease fitting, but take note of where the fitting is relative to the splines of the yoke.
 If you don't feel the fitting will get grease to the shaft spline area, mark the shaft alignment, separate the slip yoke and use a brush to paint grease onto the male splines and then re-install it, lining up the phasing marks.
 If greasing the slip yoke temporarily helps with the vibration, that is a clue that you are on the right track. It may be that your drive shaft has simply been stretched too long and the splines are not engaging fully or if it has run a long time at that position, the splines may have worn in that position.
 In both these cases, a changing the drive shaft length, with a spacer or by re-tubing it, you can get more spline engagement or a new section of male and female splines engaged that may tighten it up.
 If that does not help, a new slip yoke may be needed.
o I find that loose parts tend to vibrate under no-load conditions, like at speed when you just back off the gas pedal and are just coasting without engine braking. With no load, any loose part will make any vibration feel more apparent. And realize that almost all drive shafts w/ u-joints vibrate while moving even if perfectly balanced and aligned (it is perfectly normal), but if everything is tight, the vibration will be absorbed by the torsional stiffness of the shaft itself. But if there is a loose part, that will let the vibration be felt outside the shaft.
• Check the transfer case and pinion flanges for tightness.
o If they can be moved side to side by hand, they may need to be re-tightened or their bearings may be going.
o And don't forget to check the dust shields that are pressed onto the back side of the flanges. Those can sometimes work loose and vibrate/make noise and lead to you think you have a "real" vibration problem, but may not.
• If you recently lifted (or lowered) your vehicle's suspension by changing springs, adding blocks or spacers, or changed spring shackles, all these can affect the driveline angles, which in turn can lead to vibration
So, assuming there is no physical damage or worn out parts, and you simply have an angularity problem, there are a number of ways to fix it. Basically, you want to correct the angles. How you do that depends on a number of factors:
1. How the angles got off in the first place
2. How bad the angles are, especially if the operating angle is greater than 10°
3. The type of driveshaft you currently have
4. What kind of suspension you have
5. How much work you want to do to correct the problem

 

[Iron Rock]

Re: The Mighty Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Drives In [39K Kms Crossed]

Any how I will do another round of inspection on this aspect. My point is that, I am facing this problem only in 2WD, not in 4WD. How this can relate to the above exhaust thing ?. In 4wd, the force in the rear drive shaft will be 40% lesser.
Irrespective of the gear, speed and style of driving, I am facing this problem when the suspension is compressed (with gas pedal pressed/ propeller shaft driving the wheels). I tested it by going over the hump with gas pedal pressed in neutral gear, then there is no problem. That is why I re-iterated by saying "When wheels are driven by the force of the propeller shaft". I am also facing some excessive shake from the gear box and can be felt in the gear leaver when going through the mild off road trail and under acceleration. can you please confirm whether this is normal ?

Yes difficult to remote diagnose and guess work doesnt help - i just shared two instances i saw with other owners with similar problem description, and yes read the article as well which makes a lot of sense, however i wouldn't use that as diagnosis one, there should other simpler items to check and isolate first. Was your vehicle heavily offroaded or abused by first owner ?

minor vibrations are common with the gear, with low speed/rpm and incorrect gear it can rattle badly too. However excessive shake can be a worry if you are especially in the optimum range - so not sure if your gearbox was abused by previous owner. What speeds do you upshift in each of the gears ?

Usually there shud be next to no jerks if you are upshifting over 33kmph to 3rd gear and if you have light right feet.