Maruti Suzuki Wagon-R Stingray Ownership Review


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Hi buddy, I'm sorry if you felt bad.

In my last post I have clearly mentioned that, if you really care about the initial micro dust particles of a brand you car, then you should follow a 50kms and 1000kms oil change(It was not a joke). Since the first few hours of the working has the greatest wear and tear.

You have a point here
Let me give a scenario here.
Consider two identical cars driven identically and used identically.
One car follows manufacturer recommended service.
Another car
Changes mineral oil and filter every 5k kms ,
Ie insted of spending 3500 for semi synthetic every 10k , spending 1050 every 5k.

And second car follows all same service schedule as per manufacture recommended.

Which car do you think last longer? Ie after 1.5~2l kms ?
I will choose the second car because of the reason that I heard about, "Oil Volatility". (Yet to confirm, still learning about it)
Oil volatility is at its greatest in the first 3000km after an oil change. After that the volatility reduces and the oil stabilises. Volatility of mineral oil is higher compared to semi synthetic and synthetic oils. These vapors exit though the PVC value and enters to the inlet manifold where it can coat the inlet valves and combustion chambers in gunk. Those vapors can also reduce the life of the cat.

Its our car, we are auto enthusiastic guys, we care our cars, why do we hesitate to oil change oil every 5k kms? .
Reason as said above.
My questions are
* How did you get this 5k limit in against to the 10k ? Why not 2.5k or 3k for the oil change interval?
* Suppose your car is recommended to change its oil by 5k kms by the manufacturer. In this case, at what kms will you change your oil? Is it 2.5k? Asking you since, most of the old technology engines had 5k kms as the oil change interval.
Even I will recommend to change at 5k or even less in against to 10k kms, if and only if the owner abuses his engine well.

If the purpose of being enthusiastic is to give more life to the engine, then instead of going for the frequent oil changes its much better to go for even more thicker oil.
*Frequent oil changes reduces the dust particles inside the engine.
*Where as thicker grade engine oil reduces the wear and tear.
So being an enthusiast, which one is good for your engine's life, 0w-20 or 0w-40 and why you are still using 0w-20?

I have seen a innova run 4.5l kms ,stilll running in good condition, they say they change oil and filter blindly every 5k kms.
Does that mean Innova which follows 10k kms of oil change will not last this much? I have seen lots of innova taxis over here which has completed more than 2 and 3lac kms, and they are still healthy without having any drop in performances or mileage.

Lets do some calc
According to this 5k rule, this owner did a total of 90 times of oil changes(450000/5000). If it was done @ 10,000kms it will be just 45 oil changes. So here they did an extra of 45 oil changes..
Oil and oil filter will roughly cost approx Rs.2250/-
Ie Rs.2250 x 45 = Rs.1,01,250/-[surprise] What did they actually save?
IMO, If they have invested this each Rs2250/- in bank, then after few years it would have became even more better figure. Which will be very much helpful for an enthusiast to do the required engine overhaul(If needed) and to do all kinds of silly modifications and accessories that he likes to do in his car.[clap]

Any day, an overhauled engine is much better than an untouched engine which had done more than 4.5 lac kms. Am I right?[evil]

I am not blindly saying this concept, after seeing many cars i came to this concept.
Anyway i have nothing to prove here,bro
Lets hope for the best
Dont consider it as an argument, we are here just to share our ideas and experience which will be helpful for us and for the readers. ;)

Regards.,
 
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Thread Starter #167
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Hi buddy, I'm sorry if you felt bad.

In my last post I have clearly mentioned that, if you really care about the initial micro dust particles of a brand you car, then you should follow a 50kms and 1000kms oil change(It was not a joke). Since the first few hours of the working has the greatest wear and tear.

I will choose the second car because of the reason that I heard about, "Oil Volatility". (Yet to confirm, still learning about it)
Oil volatility is at its greatest in the first 3000km after an oil change. After that the volatility reduces and the oil stabilises. Volatility of mineral oil is higher compared to semi synthetic and synthetic oils. These vapors exit though the PVC value and enters to the inlet manifold where it can coat the inlet valves and combustion chambers in gunk. Those vapors can also reduce the life of the cat.

Reason as said above.
My questions are
* How did you get this 5k limit in against to the 10k ? Why not 2.5k or 3k for the oil change interval?
* Suppose your car is recommended to change its oil by 5k kms by the manufacturer. In this case, at what kms will you change your oil? Is it 2.5k? Asking you since, most of the old technology engines had 5k kms as the oil change interval.
Even I will recommend to change at 5k or even less in against to 10k kms, if and only if the owner abuses his engine well.

If the purpose of being enthusiastic is to give more life to the engine, then instead of going for the frequent oil changes its much better to go for even more thicker oil.
*Frequent oil changes reduces the dust particles inside the engine.
*Where as thicker grade engine oil reduces the wear and tear.
So being an enthusiast, which one is good for your engine's life, 0w-20 or 0w-40 and why you are still using 0w-20?

Does that mean Innova which follows 10k kms of oil change will not last this much? I have seen lots of innova taxis over here which has completed more than 2 and 3lac kms, and they are still healthy without having any drop in performances or mileage.

Lets do some calc
According to this 5k rule, this owner did a total of 90 times of oil changes(450000/5000). If it was done @ 10,000kms it will be just 45 oil changes. So here they did an extra of 45 oil changes..
Oil and oil filter will roughly cost approx Rs.2250/-
Ie Rs.2250 x 45 = Rs.1,01,250/-[surprise] What did they actually save?
IMO, If they have invested this each Rs2250/- in bank, then after few years it would have became even more better figure. Which will be very much helpful for an enthusiast to do the required engine overhaul(If needed) and to do all kinds of silly modifications and accessories that he likes to do in his car.[clap]

Any day, an overhauled engine is much better than an untouched engine which had done more than 4.5 lac kms. Am I right?[evil]

Dont consider it as an argument, we are here just to share our ideas and experience which will be helpful for us and for the readers. ;)

Regards.,
No, i am not hurt, ya we are here to share our thoughts (thumbs)

Actually MSS recommended 10k oil change for the oil i am currently using, but i knew this oil gonna last only for 3000~5000kms , so i am choosing 4500~5k oil change .

Do you really know a synthetic oil works well than a minerals?
Or does a semi synthetic?
Do you really believe those terms in this world of marketing terms?
Synthetic oils are used for racing and high performance machines, those oils are far costlier than current marketing fully synthetic oils,
A true mobil one oil which my friend uses for his racing carrier for his polo tsi is 12k per liter.

The fully or semisynthetic oils which we buy for our cars are nothing compared to those performance oils.

The technology used in F1 oils are 10 to 15 % is taken and those chemicals or process of making oils .
This makes only 10 to 15 better than normal mineral oils.

As you know a term "oil change period" is marketed because those addictive keep those oils from oxidizing ment to withstand the heat (10% compared to F1 cars )
So that 10% brings more life to oil, ie. Oil has lesser oxidation effect.
This does not mean any part of major lubrication improvements or power improvements.
If it does ill change to synthetic now!
(No offence)

I really stick to mineral and frequent oil changes, man!! I dont know why, i always change oil every 2.5k in my bike and as so in my car, still my bike feels new and no engine noise or what ever. May be i am more tuned like so..

My mind always thinks like this,
If i use synthetic, what happens to my engine till 15k kms .. Oh god! (Like that)

So i change oil frequently, may be after 50k kms, ill try a fully synthetic and change it at 10k instead of 15k, and ill see i see any improvements, and ill flush before i change for sure.(thumbs)


This is really like a war +:O ,
Synthetic or mineral. Oh god!

Let me say something.

Whats wrong with minerals?

Made from petroleum
Has by products in vapour

Breaks sooner in 3~4k kms in car.
Bike 2.5~

Low high temperature resistance

Some small bugs .

Synthetic?

-Nothing above
-more mileage

But in case of major thing a oil needs to do
Is lubricating the engine, where both here does the job well.
Only thing is synthetic has better life.
(Regard less of engine dust)
But Price is double! Even triple.

So let our minds decide. This topic has no stop (evil)

No, i am not hurt, ya we are here to share our thoughts (thumbs)

Actually MSS recommended 10k oil change for the oil i am currently using, but i knew this oil gonna last only for 3000~5000kms , so i am choosing 4500~5k oil change .

Do you really know a synthetic oil works well than a minerals?
Or does a semi synthetic?
Do you really believe those terms in this world of marketing terms?
Synthetic oils are used for racing and high performance machines, those oils are far costlier than current marketing fully synthetic oils,
A true mobil one oil which my friend uses for his racing carrier for his polo tsi is 12k per liter.

The fully or semisynthetic oils which we buy for our cars are nothing compared to those performance oils.

The technology used in F1 oils are 10 to 15 % is taken and those chemicals or process of making oils .
This makes only 10 to 15 better than normal mineral oils.

As you know a term "oil change period" is marketed because those addictive keep those oils from oxidizing ment to withstand the heat (10% compared to F1 cars )
So that 10% brings more life to oil, ie. Oil has lesser oxidation effect.
This does not mean any part of major lubrication improvements or power improvements.
If it does ill change to synthetic now!
(No offence)

I really stick to mineral and frequent oil changes, man!! I dont know why, i always change oil every 2.5k in my bike and as so in my car, still my bike feels new and no engine noise or what ever. May be i am more tuned like so..

My mind always thinks like this,
If i use synthetic, what happens to my engine till 15k kms .. Oh god! (Like that)

So i change oil frequently, may be after 50k kms, ill try a fully synthetic and change it at 10k instead of 15k, and ill see i see any improvements, and ill flush before i change for sure.(thumbs)

This is really like a war +:O ,
Synthetic or mineral. Oh god!

Let me say something.

Whats wrong with minerals?

Made from petroleum
Has by products in vapour

Breaks sooner in 3~4k kms in car.
Bike 2.5~

Low high temperature resistance

Some small bugs .

Synthetic?

-Nothing above
-more mileage

But in case of major thing a oil needs to do
Is lubricating the engine, where both here does the job well.
Only thing is synthetic has better life.
(Regard less of engine dust)
But Price is double! Even triple.

So let our minds decide. This topic has no stop (evil)
But i agree synthetic are better than minerals.
As my car is new,till break in period let me frequently change oil.
 
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Synthetic oils are used for racing and high performance machines, those oils are far costlier than current marketing fully synthetic oils,
A true mobil one oil which my friend uses for his racing carrier for his polo tsi is 12k per liter.
Rs.12,000 per Litre?[surprise] Are you kidding me?
That means for the 4 litres of engine oil itself costs about HALF A LAKH . OMG

Mobil 1 Racing 0W 30 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil 1 Quart Each | eBay
Mobil 1 Racing 0W-50

Kindly see the above Links. First link is of the ebay store and the other is of the real Mobil1 store. See the prices, its just about $17.94 per liter. ie its about Rs.1100/- per Liter. and no where close to Rs.12,000/-

Here is the price detail of the exact product that I use
MOBIL1 ESP Formula 5W 30 1 Liter Bottle | eBay
Its price is $14.50 ie about Rs.900/-

So there is only a difference of about Rs.200/- from the normal and the racing mobil1 engine oils.

Difference between these two oils are, in the Mobil1 racing oil the amount of Zinc and Phosphorous is much higher for providing extra protection even at higher temperature. The reason for not having this much level of Zn and P in the regular Mobil1 Fully Synthetic engine oil is why because street cars do have CATALYST CONVERTER.

Actually MSS recommended 10k oil change for the oil i am currently using, but i knew this oil gonna last only for 3000~5000kms , so i am choosing 4500~5k oil change .
I believe, the oil that you get from MASS is not mineral, its semi-synthetic. Considering that, IMO 4500 kms is too low for the normal usage.


Do you really know a synthetic oil works well than a minerals?
Or does a semi synthetic?
Do you really believe those terms in this world of marketing terms?
My answer to this question is a BIGGG YES.
Until approx 20k kms I have used the regular engine oils from the mass for my regular services. So I know how does those oils behave when my car clocks closer to 10k kms.
All of the engine smoothness will vanish and the noise will be higher. It will be more evident in its cold start.
Where as with my Mobil1 FS engine oil, even after exceeding the 10k kms the feel of "just driving off from the service center" (just after getting the car after the regular service) will be still there[:D]
NOTE: I'm not claiming all synthetic oils are better than the regular oil. There are different brands are available in our market and that is the main reason for getting bad reviews against the synthetic oils because most of the synthetic oils are not upto the mark.
The perfect combo of additives makes the synthetic oil the best engine oil.
Atleast once try one of the best Fully synthetic, the Mobil1 5w-30 ESP engine oil and see the difference.[:)]

As you know a term "oil change period" is marketed because those addictive keep those oils from oxidizing ment to withstand the heat (10% compared to F1 cars )
So that 10% brings more life to oil, ie. Oil has lesser oxidation effect.
This does not mean any part of major lubrication improvements or power improvements.
If it does ill change to synthetic now!
(No offence)
Atleast once, try the mobil1 5w-30 esp fully synthetic engine oil and find your answer by yourself.
Why are you scared? If the manufacturer recommendation of oil change interval is really harmful for the engine then every cars which follows the same should FAIL completely atleast before 1.5lacs kilometers isn't it?. Even the roughly used rent-a-cars do have a healthy engine if they do their periodic services perfectly.
So there is nothing wrong for you in once trying with Mobil1 engine oil for the 10k kms. and see yourself that do you get any feel like "its the time for you ro change the engine oil" within the next 3-5k or even at 10k kms.
Extending the 5k kms more atleast once from your present oil change interval of 3-5k kms are not going to wreck your engine.

My mind always thinks like this,
If i use synthetic, what happens to my engine till 15k kms .. Oh god! (Like that)
So i change oil frequently, may be after 50k kms, ill try a fully synthetic and change it at 10k instead of 15k, and ill see i see any improvements, and ill flush before i change for sure.(thumbs)
Even though the experts say that, I didn't start following the 15k oil change interval, but upto 13k kms. So start from 10k and increase the interval if you are convinced with its result.

But in case of major thing a oil needs to do
Is lubricating the engine, where both here does the job well.
Only thing is synthetic has better life.
(Regard less of engine dust)
But Price is double! Even triple.
-
Ya, but the purpose of engine oil is not just lubricating.
Engine oils with good additives can only helps in avoiding carbon deposits and free from sledges.


But i agree synthetic are better than minerals.
As my car is new,till break in period let me frequently change oil.
Yet not finished the break in period? Whats your odometer reading now?
 
Thread Starter #169
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Rs.12,000 per Litre?[surprise] Are you kidding me?
That means for the 4 litres of engine oil itself costs about HALF A LAKH . OMG

Mobil 1 Racing 0W 30 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil 1 Quart Each | eBay
Mobil 1 Racing 0W-50

Kindly see the above Links. First link is of the ebay store and the other is of the real Mobil1 store. See the prices, its just about $17.94 per liter. ie its about Rs.1100/- per Liter. and no where close to Rs.12,000/-

Here is the price detail of the exact product that I use
MOBIL1 ESP Formula 5W 30 1 Liter Bottle | eBay
Its price is $14.50 ie about Rs.900/-

So there is only a difference of about Rs.200/- from the normal and the racing mobil1 engine oils.

Difference between these two oils are, in the Mobil1 racing oil the amount of Zinc and Phosphorous is much higher for providing extra protection even at higher temperature. The reason for not having this much level of Zn and P in the regular Mobil1 Fully Synthetic engine oil is why because street cars do have CATALYST CONVERTER.

I believe, the oil that you get from MASS is not mineral, its semi-synthetic. Considering that, IMO 4500 kms is too low for the normal usage.

My answer to this question is a BIGGG YES.
Until approx 20k kms I have used the regular engine oils from the mass for my regular services. So I know how does those oils behave when my car clocks closer to 10k kms.
All of the engine smoothness will vanish and the noise will be higher. It will be more evident in its cold start.
Where as with my Mobil1 FS engine oil, even after exceeding the 10k kms the feel of "just driving off from the service center" (just after getting the car after the regular service) will be still there[:D]
NOTE: I'm not claiming all synthetic oils are better than the regular oil. There are different brands are available in our market and that is the main reason for getting bad reviews against the synthetic oils because most of the synthetic oils are not upto the mark.
The perfect combo of additives makes the synthetic oil the best engine oil.
Atleast once try one of the best Fully synthetic, the Mobil1 5w-30 ESP engine oil and see the difference.[:)]

Atleast once, try the mobil1 5w-30 esp fully synthetic engine oil and find your answer by yourself.
Why are you scared? If the manufacturer recommendation of oil change interval is really harmful for the engine then every cars which follows the same should FAIL completely atleast before 1.5lacs kilometers isn't it?. Even the roughly used rent-a-cars do have a healthy engine if they do their periodic services perfectly.
So there is nothing wrong for you in once trying with Mobil1 engine oil for the 10k kms. and see yourself that do you get any feel like "its the time for you ro change the engine oil" within the next 3-5k or even at 10k kms.
Extending the 5k kms more atleast once from your present oil change interval of 3-5k kms are not going to wreck your engine.

Even though the experts say that, I didn't start following the 15k oil change interval, but upto 13k kms. So start from 10k and increase the interval if you are convinced with its result.

Ya, but the purpose of engine oil is not just lubricating.
Engine oils with good additives can only helps in avoiding carbon deposits and free from sledges.

Yet not finished the break in period? Whats your odometer reading now?
Im running at 12k kms now.
The oils which i was taking is F1 grade, you cannot buy from stores or even at website you cant see their listing.

They are given only to formula one racing teams .

Will try the oil which you mentioned. At my 15k odo
 
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Hi friend, I missed your post.

Im running at 12k kms now.
.
.
Will try the oil which you mentioned. At my 15k odo
Okay, I think since you are using 0w-20 grade engine oil, already your engine must have completed the run-in-process much much before.

Anyways its really good in limiting the higher rpm usage as long as possible.[clap]



The oils which i was taking is F1 grade, you cannot buy from stores or even at website you cant see their listing.

They are given only to formula one racing teams .
Sorry, really I can't get you.
Why your friend using this particular engine oil made specially for the formula1 car, in his penny polo tsi[surprise]?

The link that I have shared with you is the Mobil1 racing engine oil for the NASCAR racing cars. Most of these cars are having redline at 10,000 rpm in against to 6500rpm of polo tsi.
Or is that a ecu remapped polo tsi to rev upto 15,000 rpm just like any F1 cars? Well, I don't think so.

*At what interval does he change this engine oil?
*After how many kms or after how many races he rebuilds his polo tsi?

I believe most of the TAI members including me are not aware about this 12k worth Mobil1 engine oil.
*Tell me where can we find the details about this oil. Can you get us any online links about this particular engine oil?
*What is the exact name of the this engine oil? So it will be easy to find and learn more about this from other Car Racing/F1 forums.

Regards.,
 
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Thread Starter #171
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Hi friend, I missed your post.

Okay, I think since you are using 0w-20 grade engine oil, already your engine must have completed the run-in-process much much before.

Anyways its really good in limiting the higher rpm usage as long as possible.[clap]

Sorry, really I can't get you.
Why your friend using this particular engine oil made specially for the formula1 car, in his penny polo tsi[surprise]?

The link that I have shared with you is the Mobil1 racing engine oil for the NASCAR racing cars. Most of these cars are having redline at 10,000 rpm in against to 6500rpm of polo tsi.
Or is that a ecu remapped polo tsi to rev upto 15,000 rpm just like any F1 cars? Well, I don't think so.

*At what interval does he change this engine oil?
*After how many kms or after how many races he rebuilds his polo tsi?

I believe most of the TAI members including me are not aware about this 12k worth Mobil1 engine oil.
*Tell me where can we find the details about this oil. Can you get us any online links about this particular engine oil?
*What is the exact name of the this engine oil? So it will be easy to find and learn more about this from other Car Racing/F1 forums.

Regards.,
Bro he has a Daytona. 675R, totally track spec bike with way more engine kits
He uses it.
Im not sure its a kind of fully synthetic oil. Its more than that.
But what its lable is trimph !
They come from factory. Even taxes are included.
Its for his league.
 
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@Stingray91 Got my Stingray on Last Wed(Apr 15/2015). Both the Interior and exterior's are looks cool.

Have driven around 150kms in Chennai city for the first 2 days and then travelled to my native (500 kms from chennai) via Ramnad on Apr 17. Chennai -> Trichy -> Karaikudi -> Ramanathapuram -> Mudukulathur.

The ODO meter shows 680 kms now and the fuel efficiency is 18.5 KMPL with 100% A/C on. Is this the normal fuel efficiency?

Am planning to give my first service in Ramanathapurm maruti service center @ 1000kms. If you have any feedback please share with me.

PS: Foto/Video attached.

Youtube url : https://youtu.be/dV2RhI86Q6g
 

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@stingray Respect your love for your car and the high amount of passion for maintaining the car. However,the usage of high cost synthetic oil is not necessary in our part of the world as our engines are very tiny and not abused much.A 1.0 liter K10 engine is what it is.What is the red line here?How much you can rev your engine? My experience with Maruti engines says not to go for the mineral oil,instead use the recommended oil and do the oil change in recommended time.I had an Alto which had run 1,20,000 Kms,for which only service done was oil change every 10,000 Kms. When I sold the vehicle mileage was 20-22 Kmpl. After the initial 10K service the vehicle was smooth and so fun to drive. What I want to say is that these engines are build to last for some time and it can survive with the normal oil itself. [cheers]
 
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Stingray first service done @ Ramanathapuram maruti service centre but the bill amount was Rs.500

Cabin Air Filter Stingray - 350
Cream wash - 60
Battery replacement check - 90

Though Maruti says first service as free but i paid Rs.500 for first service. Any idea friends?
 
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hey guys, i bought a Smart H7 4300k HIT kit from Opera house mUmbai and it works fine for sometime but if i turn off the low beam and try to turn it on it wont turn on and needs multiple retries and many time i have turn off engine wait for few minutes and then it will turn on.

can anyone using hit kit for low beam help me. i showed the hid kit to the service centre and they tested and its working fine and no issue, they say it may be a power supply issue. can anyone please help?

any help will be appreciated
 
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Stingray first service done @ Ramanathapuram maruti service centre but the bill amount was Rs.500

Cabin Air Filter Stingray - 350
Cream wash - 60
Battery replacement check - 90

Though Maruti says first service as free but i paid Rs.500 for first service. Any idea friends?
Dear Rajaboopathyg,

The first service usually costs zero since no parts are consumed during the same. However the service personnel tries to drain something from the customers pocket with some additional work done on the vehicle. These are all pure business tactics [frustration]

The cabin air filter is good to have but the cream wash and battery replacement check [shock] is utter nonsense just to make the payment. You can always question them the unnecessary items in the bill before making the payment.
 

bhvm

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hey guys, i bought a Smart H7 4300k HIT kit from Opera house mUmbai and it works fine for sometime but if i turn off the low beam and try to turn it on it wont turn on and needs multiple retries and many time i have turn off engine wait for few minutes and then it will turn on.

can anyone using hit kit for low beam help me. i showed the hid kit to the service centre and they tested and its working fine and no issue, they say it may be a power supply issue. can anyone please help?

any help will be appreciated
HID shouldn't be turned on-off like that. you're almost killing them that. if you turn off HID, atleast wait a few minutes before re striking the arc.
 
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HID shouldn't be turned on-off like that. you're almost killing them that. if you turn off HID, atleast wait a few minutes before re striking the arc.
Will keep that in mind but in day time when we use pass upper dipper low beam and high beam both are turned on..

So will that also impact hid kit
 

bhvm

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yes,
HID uses a very high voltage pulse to strike an arc in the plasma chamber. this plasma ionises the salts present in chamber, causing it to. glow (emitting light )

hids don't have a filament.

so if you flash the headlights,it could reduce the life by increased electrode wear. one habit to avert this is to hold the flash stick for a few seconds and then let go (rather than usual on-off-on flashing habit.)

a better idea is to. upgrade the fog lamps (if you have factory fogs) with HID as they're not turned on off usually. I'm doing the same.
 
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yes,
HID uses a very high voltage pulse to strike an arc in the plasma chamber. this plasma ionises the salts present in chamber, causing it to. glow (emitting light )

hids don't have a filament.

so if you flash the headlights,it could reduce the life by increased electrode wear. one habit to avert this is to hold the flash stick for a few seconds and then let go (rather than usual on-off-on flashing habit.)

a better idea is to. upgrade the fog lamps (if you have factory fogs) with HID as they're not turned on off usually. I'm doing the same.
Cool advice, will implement that, but can you share the snaps of fog lamp covering the road with its light, I mean can you share a snap taken from driver seat in night showing only hid fog lamps luminosity.

And then from front.

And how bout led h7 bulb for low beam.. They are also good, one of friend is using I in his h7low beam of xuv 500. Any suggestions will be a bonus.
 
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