Maruti Suzuki Wagon-R Stingray Ownership Review

[stingray91]

Relay wiring

 

[Kichu]

Made a DIY today .
I always wanted to know when ac compressor actually works, ie even if switch is turned on, ac cutts of automatically when compressor gets max pressure.
And waits for pressure to reduce by transferring cold to cabin and absorbing heat from cabin thus reducing pressure and compressor starts working again,
Note : its controlled by ecu in now a day cars.

That is a wrong concept. AC compressor doesn't works with respect to the compressor max pressure. In our cars, it works with respect to the blower speed and also with respect to the value given by the temperature sensor called Thermistor.

Also i needed to know when radiator works when engine heats up or coolent temperature gets high.

What do you mean by radiator? Did you mean the radiator fan?
Well, in our cars it works in either of the two cases.
*When the coolant temperature exceeds. or
*When the AC is switched on.

So i took outputs from ac and radiator relays and used a 1k resistor with a 3v bulb with a mounting socket.

Was that really difficult for you to feel the compressor and the radiator fan working? For me a 5-10 mins of keen observation was enough to get an idea about its working.

I took a dummy switch from cabin and drilled holes and fitted it.
Now i am able to see what's going on :)

Okay, Now share your views.

 

[stingray91]

That is a wrong concept. AC compressor doesn't works with respect to the compressor max pressure. In our cars, it works with respect to the blower speed and also with respect to the value given by the temperature sensor called Thermistor.

What do you mean by radiator? Did you mean the radiator fan?
Well, in our cars it works in either of the two cases.
*When the coolant temperature exceeds. or
*When the AC is switched on.

Was that really difficult for you to feel the compressor and the radiator fan working? For me a 5-10 mins of keen observation was enough to get an idea about its working.

Okay, Now share your views.

Please let me know where the thermistors is located.
I meant radiator fan .
i wanted to know , like a cockpit of flight, :) , so i did that.
Many more coming
Even a manual switch to turn radiator on, when i im gonna park my car or going to race mode (devil) in highways.

That's a ac line, there is a sensor over there, can you explain what its? Mostly in all ac workshops they fit a gauge in there and fill coolent and chk pressure

 

[Kichu]

Please let me know where the thermistors is located.
I meant radiator fan .
i wanted to know , like a cockpit of flight, :) , so i did that.
Many more coming
Even a manual switch to turn radiator on, when i im gonna park my car or going to race mode (devil) in highways.

I think you missed it, you can continue this discussion over here, where you will get more info about the AC.

Then you can consider adding a sporty tachometer with shift light indicator, AFR and Water temp gauges.

If my memory is true, you are using 0w-20 grade engine oil. So if you wanna do prolonged race mode driving then its better for you to switch to 0w/5w-30 or 0w/5w-40 grade fully synthetic engine oil.

Usuage of 0w-20 in the k10 enigines is for the better fuel economy.

Regards.,


EDITS:

That's a ac line, there is a sensor over there, can you explain what its? Mostly in all ac workshops they fit a gauge in there and fill coolent and chk pressure

AFAIK thats a pressure sensor.

No, they dont connect to that sensor, they connect their gauges to the values available on that pipe lines.

 

[stingray91]

AFAIK thats a pressure sensor.

No, they dont connect to that sensor, they connect their gauges to the values available on that pipe lines.

Thanks for your concern about engine oil mr. Kichu, ill take a note on that for sure.
I thought a works with info according to that pressure, so told so,
Now coming to oil

I am planning of oil change period of 5k kms once, is it ok? Or should i spend double money and change every 10k?
As mass recommended its 10k for mineral too, i don't want engine bay to get used to dark high mileage oil for long time, so planned to change fresh blood every 5k kms.
I heard, mineral oil only looses its character in longer mileage, so changing Every 5k is cool?
Even if i use synth, i need to use for 10k , for 10k kms dirt can accumulated in engine ie. Carbon deposits.
Which cant be filtered by oil filter.
So its better? Or im wrong?

 

[stingray91]

Taken at 3rd free service

 

[stingray91]

Did some free way tests in waggy

Overwhelmed about the strong k series engine.

Used obd adapter with torque pro app.

See the times of
Quarter mile
Half mile
0 to 100kmph
And 0 to 60 mph

MY BEST IS 14.1 sec. 0-100kmph

Fiat Palio 1.6 Petrol -------------- 11.9 secs
Hyundai i20 1.4 Diesel ------------ 13 secs
Hyundai i10 1.2 Petrol ------------ 13.02 secs
Maruti Swift 1.2 Petrol ------------ 13.09 secs
Honda Jazz 1.2 Petrol ------------- 13.29 secs
Maruti Ritz 1.2 Petrol ------------- 13.33 secs
Maruti A-Star 1.0 Petrol ----------- 13.79 secs
Maruti Swift 1.3 Diesel ------------ 13.87 secs
Maruti Ritz 1.3 Diesel --------------14.36 secs
Hyundai Getz 1.3 Petrol ----------- 14.47 secs
Hyundai Santro 1.1 Petrol --------- 14.66 secs
Chevrolet Beat 1.2 Petrol ---------- 14.86 secs
Skoda Fabia 1.4 Diesel ------------ 14.95 secs
Hyundai i20 1.2 Petrol ------------ 15.21 secs
Fiat Palio 1.3 Diesel -------------- 15.49 secs
Hyundai i10 1.1 Petrol -------------15.55 secs
Maruti Estilo 1.0 Petrol ------------ 15.83 secs
Chevrolet Spark 1.0 Petrol --------- 15.93 secs
Ford Figo `1.4 Diesel -------------- 16.26 secs
Skoda Fabia 1.2 Petrol ------------ 16.26 secs
Ford Figo 1.2 Petrol ----------------16.36 secs
Tata Vista 1.3 Diesel ---------------16.36 secs
Chevrolet U-VA 1.2 Petrol ----------16.49 secs
VW Polo 1.2 Petrol -----------------16.5 secs
Fiat Punto 1.4 Petrol ---------------16.58 secs
Maruti WagonR 1.1 Petrol ---------- 16.6 secs
Tata Indica 1.2 Petrol --------------16.95 secs
Hyundai Getz 1.1 Petrol ------------ 17.7 secs
Fiat Punto 1.3 Diesel --------------- 17.84 secs
Fiat Punto 1.2 Petrol ----------------18.16 secs
Tata Vista 1.2 Petrol -------------- 18.36 secs
Maruti Alto 0.8 Petrol ---------------20.38 secs
Fiat Palio 1.1 Petrol -----------------20.45 secs
Tata Indica 1.4 Diesel ---------------22.39 secs
Maruti 800 0.8 Petrol ----------------26 secs
Tata Nano 0.6 Petrol --------------- 29.78 secs

 

[Kichu]

Thanks for your concern about engine oil mr. Kichu, ill take a note on that for sure.
I thought a works with info according to that pressure, so told so,
Now coming to oil

I am planning of oil change period of 5k kms once, is it ok? Or should i spend double money and change every 10k?
As mass recommended its 10k for mineral too, i don't want engine bay to get used to dark high mileage oil for long time, so planned to change fresh blood every 5k kms.
I heard, mineral oil only looses its character in longer mileage, so changing Every 5k is cool?
Even if i use synth, i need to use for 10k , for 10k kms dirt can accumulated in engine ie. Carbon deposits.
Which cant be filtered by oil filter.
So its better? Or im wrong?

To my knowledge maruti recommends 10k kms of oil change interval for the semi-synthetic engine oil. Is it same for the mineral oil too?

Since you wish to drive at higher rpm, there are more chances to get carbon deposits. So here I don't recommend mineral oil, mineral oils are not much efficient in avoiding this.

What is your normal usage of rpm range? And to what rpm range you are thinking to increase?

Generally I drive in between 2-3k rpm with occasional sprinting upto 4k rpm and I do very rarely goes upto 5k rpm(Only when the situation calls for it)
With this usage I change my engine oil after 12,000-13,000 kms ( I use Mobil1 fully synthetic 5w-30 engine oil)


Which grade of engine oil is filled during this 3rd service?

Thats a good score

 

[stingray91]

To my knowledge maruti recommends 10k kms of oil change interval for the semi-synthetic engine oil. Is it same for the mineral oil too?

Since you wish to drive at higher rpm, there are more chances to get carbon deposits. So here I don't recommend mineral oil, mineral oils are not much efficient in avoiding this.

What is your normal usage of rpm range? And to what rpm range you are thinking to increase?

Generally I drive in between 2-3k rpm with occasional sprinting upto 4k rpm and I do very rarely goes upto 5k rpm(Only when the situation calls for it)
With this usage I change my engine oil after 12,000-13,000 kms ( I use Mobil1 fully synthetic 5w-30 engine oil)

Which grade of engine oil is filled during this 3rd service?

Thats a good score

Thanks for the clap :)
I drive till 3k rpm or 2.5 k to shift in city.
Only in some situations ill rev it up
Not regularly .
You get 18 to 17 kmpl avg

 

[Kichu]

Now which grade engine oil is using?

In city driving condition, for me its around 15-18kmpl without ac

 

[stingray91]

Now which grade engine oil is using?

In city driving condition, for me its around 15-18kmpl without ac

That's a good FE.
Oil is 0w-20 mineral ,maruthi genuine

 

[Kichu]

That's a good FE.
Oil is 0w-20 mineral ,maruthi genuine

Til now I have used only 5w-30 and 0w-40 grade engine oil. I hope I will get much better petrol mileage if I opt for 0w-20 grade engine oil.

 

[stingray91]

Til now I have used only 5w-30 and 0w-40 grade engine oil. I hope I will get much better petrol mileage if I opt for 0w-20 grade engine oil.

No, even if the factor will be 2%
Try using a obd device and
Make a gauge with
Realtime engine load and
Real time fuel flow .
Drive the car with linear fuel flow and engine load .
You will get massive change in mileage.
Also you will know about throttle vs real time fuel flow tricks

 

[Kichu]

No, even if the factor will be 2%
Try using a obd device and
Make a gauge with
Realtime engine load and
Real time fuel flow .
Drive the car with linear fuel flow and engine load .
You will get massive change in mileage.
Also you will know about throttle vs real time fuel flow tricks

My car is 2009 years model. Even though its the first car to receive the k10 engine, it is 0BD I compliance, only obd II is available widely and cheaply.

 

[stingray91]

My car is 2009 years model. Even though its the first car to receive the k10 engine, it is 0BD I compliance, only obd II is available widely and cheaply.

I think obd2 will be backwards compatable with obd1??