Audio System Upgrade on Hyundai Verna Fluidic


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Buddy, Infinity subs don't kick that low as you might be expecting them to be. They are more on the acoustic sides and suited for SQ setups rather than SPL setups. They are fast in bass witout any lags and hence do not need TA to gel with the music's vocals. If you are looking at a more bassy sub i'd suggest you try auditioning ID, GZ (if available stil) or bull sub. Both rock man. Another nice option is RF Punch series P3D412. All these are nice subs producing tight bass when fed with clean power but need a mono to perform at their best.

Also, i noticed that your amp is capable of producing 2 x 200W RMS @ 4Ohm only, now thats too low for a sub to go bassy. Add to that your sub has a power range of 100-300 RMS.

On the other hand I have RF Prime R1 mated to Kenny 846 in my etios. Currently all enhancers are kept flat, but if i feed a little bass/SLA enhancement to it, it simply goes damn heavy bassy. So, please listen and audition a lot before deciding. Also, have the sub cable checked for any issues like naked cuts touching car body etc.

freakdude.
 
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Buddy, Infinity subs don't kick that low as you might be expecting them to be. They are more on the acoustic sides and suited for SQ setups rather than SPL setups. They are fast in bass witout any lags and hence do not need TA to gel with the music's vocals. If you are looking at a more bassy sub i'd suggest you try auditioning ID, GZ (if available stil) or bull sub. Both rock man. Another nice option is RF Punch series P3D412. All these are nice subs producing tight bass when fed with clean power but need a mono to perform at their best.

Also, i noticed that your amp is capable of producing 2 x 200W RMS @ 4Ohm only, now thats too low for a sub to go bassy. Add to that your sub has a power range of 100-300 RMS.

On the other hand I have RF Prime R1 mated to Kenny 846 in my etios. Currently all enhancers are kept flat, but if i feed a little bass/SLA enhancement to it, it simply goes damn heavy bassy. So, please listen and audition a lot before deciding. Also, have the sub cable checked for any issues like naked cuts touching car body etc.

freakdude.
infinity subs are good enough if you want to feel some amount of bass , if you provide it proper power but when it comes to real spl production it fails. and below 30 hz , it do not hit.

My infinity sub blew few days ago , i think reason is overpowering.

Need to buy new sub now.
you said P3D412 is good spl sub. i am planning to get P3D212 (only difference is 2 ohm voice coil rather then 4 ohm)..
Can you review this sub if you have any idea?

sub is 500 rms and i have 700 rms @ 2ohm monoblock

and one more important thing i wanted to ask you if you know.
Can we provide 2 ohm power from amp to the sub , when sub has 4 ohm voice coil?
my amp gives 700 rms @ 2 ohm and my sub was 300 rms SVC 4 ohm.. but i provided it max power
 
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infinity subs are good enough if you want to feel some amount of bass , if you provide it proper power but when it comes to real spl production it fails. and below 30 hz , it do not hit.

My infinity sub blew few days ago , i think reason is overpowering.

Need to buy new sub now.
you said P3D412 is good spl sub. i am planning to get P3D212 (only difference is 2 ohm voice coil rather then 4 ohm)..
Can you review this sub if you have any idea?

sub is 500 rms and i have 700 rms @ 2ohm monoblock

and one more important thing i wanted to ask you if you know.
Can we provide 2 ohm power from amp to the sub , when sub has 4 ohm voice coil?
my amp gives 700 rms @ 2 ohm and my sub was 300 rms SVC 4 ohm.. but i provided it max power

buddy,

all amps have a stability peak, i.e., a point in ohms at which they are stable and do not spike out. You need to check if your amp is 2 ohm stable or 4 ohm stable (and not just 700rms @ 2ohm). And yes you can power a dual voice coil sub each of 4ohm by wiring in parallel to make it 2 ohm and then you can use your 2 ohm amp to drive it. make sure you never exceed the max sub rms power else you get what you got, a fried sub. [;)]

also, P3D212 is not a pure SPL sub, it just hits damn low and that's it. If you hunting for a SPL sub, try sourcing a GZ or even better a ID sub, nothing beats them.


freakdude.
 
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buddy,
all amps have a stability peak, i.e., a point in ohms at which they are stable and do not spike out. You need to check if your amp is 2 ohm stable or 4 ohm stable (and not just 700rms @ 2ohm). And yes you can power a dual voice coil sub each of 4ohm by wiring in parallel to make it 2 ohm and then you can use your 2 ohm amp to drive it. make sure you never exceed the max sub rms power else you get what you got, a fried sub. [;)]
also, P3D212 is not a pure SPL sub, it just hits damn low and that's it. If you hunting for a SPL sub, try sourcing a GZ or even better a ID sub, nothing beats them.
freakdude.
I bought Rockford P3D212 yesterday. It's the 500 rms 1000watts model. not the newest 600 rms one.
I searched in JC road in bangalore a lot but couldnt find Power series sub for reasonable price. Some of the dealers were ready to order it for me but they were asking more then 15k for it.

Then searched on ebay and got a good deal for 7500 rs for this sub , applied 10% discount voucher and finally bought it for 6750/-
I am little worried as first time i bought ICE item on internet. I hope it will reach to me properly.

@freakdude
My amp is 2 ohm stable(not at 1 ohm) its JBL GTO 7001.
It's monoblock but i dont understand why they gave 4 speaker output terminal ( 2 + and 2 - ) in it.
thats why this time i bought DVC sub which will alos have ( 2+ and 2-) , so i will connect both the voice coil separately from amp to sub without bridging.
Check out the pic below how amp outputs are.
If i am doing any wrong please tell me.
 

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firstly, many congrats for getting the BOMB for such a cheap price (i am jealous of you now). Regarding wiring have a look at below link, It has ALL possible wiring diagrams for sum/amp combinations in terms of impedence.

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams

For adequately firing your DVC you'll need a 1 ohm stable amp. With your current amp you can max out at generating a 4ohm load. i guess even this should be enough and would also not cause any heating issues. Also, just a suggestion, for few days let the sub break-in and don't go too loud or else you might fry a coil.

freakdude.
 
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@freakdude

as there are 2 ch outputs in my amp , I should consider my amp as 2 ch amplifier.
My amp gives 475 rms @ 4 ohm as written in manual.
So i think that much power should be enough for 500 rms sub.
Narrowed it down to this
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutch...enter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1DVC_2-ohm_2ch.jpg

as i dont want to fry my sub again , better i bridge it at 4 ohm only.

my infinity sub was under warranty , i hope i will get replacement for it. I will sell that baby then.
 
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@freakdude
as i dont want to fry my sub again , better i bridge it at 4 ohm only..
You have correctly decided on the wiring diagram buddy, and as I had earlier suggested too, you should max out at 4ohm stable with enough juice for your sub without frying it. Just keep a close watch on the sub for any foul burning smell when played for extended periods and DO NOT pump out high volumes or the typical "bass sub-woofer test" tracks till it breaks-in nicely. I guess 15-20 hrs of playback shall be enough to break-in the sub.

Lastly, do post some pics man.[cheers]

freakdude.
 
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Ya , sure i will post some pics.
i wont play loud initially , i will keep it in mind.
Bluedart tracking , delivery date is written 16th march.
I have spent money but i am still worried about product. I cant trust until i see it working properly.

and i dont have subbox too. it's with my old sub which i sent for replacement.
 
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Got my P3D212 today.
It looks awesome. Tried to play it my friends subbox but it coudnt fit in the box as it has bigger diameter . But it seems it's working properly.
It is new piece , no damage , thank god.

I cant wait for my old sub and subbox to come so i am going tomorrow to get a new subbox according to the specs given in the manual of this sub.

some pics.
 

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new boom sub is really booming.
As freakdude told dont play at max for initial 10 hours , i kept gain at half only and this sub at half is like the full of my old infinity sub... dont know how powerful it is at max.

@sandy
I connected my sub with old wiring only , nothing is opened so which installation photo you need to see exactly.
I will post the pic of my sub. Got supersubbox today. paid 2200/- to make him made it the way i want it. it's quite big occupying half of my boot[sad]
(my mobile is dead , using nokia dabba temporarily , i have to borrow my friend's phone to take pics:mad:)
 
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new boom sub is really booming.
As freakdude told dont play at max for initial 10 hours , i kept gain at half only and this sub at half is like the full of my old infinity sub... dont know how powerful it is at max.
Believe me buddy, this sub is an underdog. For it's price it can put to shame any 20K priced sub. One word of advice, NEVER up the gains on your amp to MAX or near MAX with a DVC sub. It strains the pcb board of the amp and the voice coils too. Best bet is around 75% gains on amp and rest tune it from your HU. Regarding how it would be at near MAX power playing, just try it after break-in and soon you'll be paying for shattered windows of your neighbors. Once I used to have two of these in my lancer powered by DLS amp, and boy they used to blow of the pants of anyone sitting in the car. Huh.....those days... [drive]


freakdude.
 
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@freakdude

as you said it will be better after break-in now i am eagerly waiting for it.
And for gain , i connected sub in series so my 2 ohm DVC sub is set at 4 ohms now and even from amps i am giving 4 ohm load did not max it at 2 ohm like i did before.
 
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