Accessories For Maruti Suzuki Dzire Tour LDi


Thread Starter #721
SankarNarayanan

SankarNarayanan

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freakdude said:
Google it and have a read first, then we can discuss more.
Click to expand...
Bit Ten:-

Bit Ten is a multi-function digital processor featuring analog input, capable of transforming ordinary OEM or after-market system into a high-performance system. Provided with a 32 bit, 147 MHz clock speed DSP as well as 24 bit A/D and D/A converters, bit Ten is controlled by a software especially developed for signal treatment according to the vehicle acoustic peculiarities.
Setting the parameters of each input single channel, setting the delays according to the listening position, adjusting crossovers and equalizers for each of the 5 output channels; all of these operations can be managed by the PC.
During the installation phase, after converting the analog signal into digital, bit Ten automatically reconstructs a digital full-bandwidth stereo signal; de-equalizes the frequency response and, if necessary, reconstructs the central and subwoofer channels.
The user can configure the output mode of each channel relative to the installed system.
It is designed to be connected with the DRC, Digital Remote Control (optional).

Bit Ten D:-

bit Ten D is a multi-function digital processor conceived and built to process digital and analogue signal both on the input and on output to the amplifier (featuring AD Link connection) and create top-performance system with any source typology. Provided with a 32 bit, 147 MHz clock speed DSP as well as 24 bit A/D and D/A converters, bit Ten D processes the signal with extreme accuracy and wide configurability thanks to a software especially designed for car acoustic peculiarities.
bit Ten D features an optical digital input, minimizing interference and degradations of the signal found in traditional analog interconnects, also by-passing the A/D conversion phases of analog signals.
Thanks to the AD Link connection, the available outputs become 8 in total, all in digital format; they can also be used simultaneously with the analog ones (for a maximum of 8 outputs total).
The AC Link is completely dedicated to the “remote control” of the system. The system is comprised of one connector for the provided DRC and one for the amplifiers present in the system. The DRC is supplied with the bit Ten D product.

Any difference that you know off? I am currently downloading the manual for both Bit 10 and Bit 10 D and will read it fully for understanding them further.

Regards,
Sankar
 
Thread Starter #724
SankarNarayanan

SankarNarayanan

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Hi Folks,

I am thinking of pairing Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bdCP Power Series Class D Monoblock Amplifier with 2 Pioneer TS-W3002D2 12" Dual 2 ohm Champion PRO Series Car Subwoofer.

Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bdCP

Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bdCP (t15001bdcp) 1500W RMS Constant

Pioneer TS-W3002D2

Pioneer TS-W3002D2 (TSW3002D2) 12" Dual 2 ohm Champion PRO Sub

Please post your opinion. Pioneer sub can be tuned both for SQL and SPL purposes. RF amp is legendary. Importing both would mean i can get them under 50k. Best VFM option i have come across.

Regards,
Sankar
 
Thread Starter #729
SankarNarayanan

SankarNarayanan

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Hi Folks,

I am confused between this thought.

"Capacitor vs Adding another battery"

Capacitor is the most common add on for multiple amplifier setups i have seen. Many recommend them for lighting dimming issues. But i am hesitant to go for capacitor because as per my knowledge a capacitor only stores an amount of power from alternator and provides it to amplifiers when needed. An expert has said this - "A capacitor smooths out the power demands by providing a short burst of energy when needed. If your lights dim only occasionally, and only on the loud drum beats, then a capacitor may just be the cure."

Adding a second battery:-

Another method is to add a second battery, often back near the amplifier. This, in effect, provides another source of power available to fill in the gaps when the system needs it. When the power is asked for, it comes from the batteries. Two batteries wired in parallel act like one battery with twice the capacity. This would give stable power to both my amplifiers and all other high power components installed in my car like extra powerful headlights/Horns and power windows.

Cost wise i am amazed to say this adding a second battery costs only half of adding a capacitor from reputed manufacturer. What should i do now? Please help me with your valuable comments.

Regards,
Sankar
 
Thread Starter #731
SankarNarayanan

SankarNarayanan

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jarpickle said:
You're alternator will be working very hard.You have to look at upgrading it.
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Battery doesn't drain up completely na? So when ICE is working it would take up some amount of power from battery and alternator is capable for charging 65mah battery but it would never have to in real life situations routinely. So When two batteries of same ratings are connected parallel it will act like a single battery. As they won't drain a lot equally will alternator have a tough time charging them?

Regards,
Sankar
 
#734
jarpickle

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Light and AC depends on usage.

The ECU/ECM and fuel injection, Ignition coil will always be working.

The battery is not generating power.The alternator is, the battery just stores it for starting the car and steps in when the alternator cannot provide enough power.

The alternator spins faster than the engine pulley since its smaller in size.Most alternators will spin to 10000rpm.If you can find an alternator that will spin to say 15000rpm and that generate power onwards from 1500-2000rpm(Engine idle)you can use that.

The alternator pulley is usually smaller than the engine pulley and for example if the engine pulley is 6 inches in diameter and the alternator is 3 inches in diameter then the alternator would turn at (6/2)3x the speed of the engine.At an idle speed of 800 engine rpm, the alternator turns 2400 rpm. At this speed most alternators output is very low if your alternator charges at idle then its different, I have been told Denso alternators charge at idle. At 2000 engine rpm, the alternator is turning at 6000, most alternators provide nearly full output at 6000-7000rpm. But if your engine goes to over 3500 rpm the alternator would be running at close to 11000 rpm which would burn out the alternator after a short while.No manufacturer wants the alternator to get burnt so they do not make a pulley in such a way that you can redline the alternator.Here is where the higher rpm alternators come in, if you have the specs for your alternator and it can run to 15000rpm then you can get a custom pulley made for the alternator by using this.Best way to get a high rpm alternator is a Honda.The Vtecs rev to 7000rpm if not higher.

If you think this is too much then you should get just a high power alternator with a pulley suitable for your car.

Coming to the batteries, even if your current alternator can handle 2 batteries it won't be able to charge them both, especially not in a short amount of time.You will have to keep an eye on the batteries and charge them externally every time they reach a certain limit.
 
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#735
Releesh

Releesh

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jarpickle@

Though it is not practical to connect and disconnect whenever we use the car, but what about the external charging for current single battery? we do long trips are monthly once or twice only.
Sankar@
Why dont you check and reduce the usage?
Is it 130 W H/L is really required? why dont you try the Philips extreme vision/Osaram night breaker plus instead of current bulbs?
Is it fog lamp really giving a good output compared to the watts they use?
I think you read yesterday's newspaper, after sunfilm, our Kerala police and Rashiraj singh going to start penalise for music system & LCD screens.(I am not sure how it'll workout). So think again abut the ICE expense you spending.
 
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