The nearest that I can find close to the Plati wheels is HRS H 315 with Full Machined Black.
http://www.alloywheelsindia.com/product1/search/137/6/15/18/40/h_315.htm
http://www.alloywheelsindia.com/product1/search/137/6/15/18/40/h_315.htm
My New Honda City in White - The Albus
- Thread Starter Dr MUDHAN
- Start date
Dear Essaarr,
very useful info. Thank you once again.
I appreciate your effort that you put forward.![[clap]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Clap.gif "Clap [clap]")
Is it safe to get alloys from that website which you have mentioned?
with the wheel specs that you have, any problems faced so far?
Did you get yours from them?
thank you once again![[:)]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Smile.gif "Smile [:)]")
very useful info. Thank you once again.
I appreciate your effort that you put forward.
Is it safe to get alloys from that website which you have mentioned?
with the wheel specs that you have, any problems faced so far?
Did you get yours from them?
thank you once again
Regarding my Note 2 about offset (ET), my numbers does not seem to add up right. In general, as the rim width increases, the offset ET should reduce. This is how I understand it:
15 x 5.5J if OEM offset is +48, then
15 x 6.0J would probably be +44, and
15 x 6.5J would be +40 and
15 x 7.0J would be +36 and so on and so forth.
15 x 5.5J if OEM offset is +48, then
15 x 6.0J would probably be +44, and
15 x 6.5J would be +40 and
15 x 7.0J would be +36 and so on and so forth.
Sai Mag Wheels is the official importer of HRS-Taiwan (or Hijoin) wheels in India. From reports read before buying my wheels, they seem to be reliable and I didn't face any problem getting them. Shipping within India is free (by land) and I am not sure if they export since your location is Malaysia. You have to ask them (prices will go up).
If you are looking for wheels for a Honda City in Malaysia then you should probably try
King of Rims
Lot 53, Jalan Utas 15/7, Section 15, 40000 Shah Alam Selangor Darul Ehsan Malaysia.
Phone:+60 3-5510 1689
or
SS Pro Auto Sdn Bhd
No. 8 & 10, Jalan PJS 11/3, Sunway Light Industrial Park, 46150 Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia.
Phone: +60 3-5638 8262
If you are looking for wheels for a Honda City in Malaysia then you should probably try
King of Rims
Lot 53, Jalan Utas 15/7, Section 15, 40000 Shah Alam Selangor Darul Ehsan Malaysia.
Phone:+60 3-5510 1689
or
SS Pro Auto Sdn Bhd
No. 8 & 10, Jalan PJS 11/3, Sunway Light Industrial Park, 46150 Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia.
Phone: +60 3-5638 8262
Actually the technique used by you could be counter productive.
Acceleration consumes the most amount of fuel. So the amount of fuel burnt while accelerating from 90-150 will be more than the fuel saved while the car decelerates.
I have seen taxi drivers do this but it actually does not help.
The ideal situation is when you know that you car speed wont decrease, like on a downhill slope (On the Mumbai Pune Expressway the speed actually increases on the downhill ghat section past Lonavala).
Alternatively if you see that the you would need to slow the car down anyways like in case of a speed breaker or a traffic jam then slotting into Neutral helps push up the overall fuel efficiency figures.
Basically the idea is to use as little of the brakes as required, so anticipation is the key.
If you see traffic slowing up release the accelerator rather than going up to the slower moving car in front and then braking. The additional time you get doing this also helps to see the reason the car is moving slower and could allow a quick overtake if possible.
Many more techniques are possible but all include a certain amount of risk and high car control so I am not listing them here.
As for Cruise Control, I too use that for good FE
110 kmph on Cruise gives about 17 kmpl in real life.
Well I have tested them under hard braking, hard cornering, fast accelerating and decelerating corners and no signs of it touching for now.
Hence I said that though "Statistically" it is above the permissible 3% Change, since the wheel wells can handle the larger tyre, the overall comfort of the bigger profile is worth it.
Will get more insight on my next planned trip to Goa this weekend.
Acceleration consumes the most amount of fuel. So the amount of fuel burnt while accelerating from 90-150 will be more than the fuel saved while the car decelerates.
I have seen taxi drivers do this but it actually does not help.
The ideal situation is when you know that you car speed wont decrease, like on a downhill slope (On the Mumbai Pune Expressway the speed actually increases on the downhill ghat section past Lonavala).
Alternatively if you see that the you would need to slow the car down anyways like in case of a speed breaker or a traffic jam then slotting into Neutral helps push up the overall fuel efficiency figures.
Basically the idea is to use as little of the brakes as required, so anticipation is the key.
If you see traffic slowing up release the accelerator rather than going up to the slower moving car in front and then braking. The additional time you get doing this also helps to see the reason the car is moving slower and could allow a quick overtake if possible.
Many more techniques are possible but all include a certain amount of risk and high car control so I am not listing them here.
As for Cruise Control, I too use that for good FE
110 kmph on Cruise gives about 17 kmpl in real life.
Well I have tested them under hard braking, hard cornering, fast accelerating and decelerating corners and no signs of it touching for now.
Hence I said that though "Statistically" it is above the permissible 3% Change, since the wheel wells can handle the larger tyre, the overall comfort of the bigger profile is worth it.
Will get more insight on my next planned trip to Goa this weekend.
Change, since the wheel wells can handle the larger tyre, the overall comfort of the bigger profile is worth it.
@gadve
My sincere advise would be to change both Alloys and Tyres together.
In case you have a budget constraint then change the tyres first. You can read my post Here
The ride in a car is more important than the looks. No point in a good looking car if you cannot enjoy the ride. You will appreciate what everyone on the Forum is talking about changing the stock tyres, only once you have done it.
It may make financial sense to keep the tyre till the end of it's life but come on, you own a Honda City.
You can also consider selling the stock tyres on Olx. You should get anything between 1000-1500/- for it.
Well I have not hit anything since the tyre change (Not that I remember scraping the bottom too many times before) but again will get a better idea after the weekend Road Trip.
Should be fun....![[:D]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Big%20Smile.gif "Big Smile [:D]")
Not Really. It is the Good Year GT3's that spoil the whole ride on the City. High (and I mean HIGH) road noise and terrible grip.
Your energy XM's are not that bad and you can stay on them for a bit.
I don't quite agree, though I may be wrong.
You need higher profile tyres to absorb more of the bumps to improve the cushion-ness
of the ride. I certainly feel the difference of the increased tyre wall height. The back seat ride has been transformed. But then again, as I said before, I may be wrong here.
My sincere advise would be to change both Alloys and Tyres together.
In case you have a budget constraint then change the tyres first. You can read my post Here
The ride in a car is more important than the looks. No point in a good looking car if you cannot enjoy the ride. You will appreciate what everyone on the Forum is talking about changing the stock tyres, only once you have done it.
It may make financial sense to keep the tyre till the end of it's life but come on, you own a Honda City.
You can also consider selling the stock tyres on Olx. You should get anything between 1000-1500/- for it.
Well I have not hit anything since the tyre change (Not that I remember scraping the bottom too many times before) but again will get a better idea after the weekend Road Trip.
Should be fun....
Not Really. It is the Good Year GT3's that spoil the whole ride on the City. High (and I mean HIGH) road noise and terrible grip.
Your energy XM's are not that bad and you can stay on them for a bit.
I don't quite agree, though I may be wrong.
You need higher profile tyres to absorb more of the bumps to improve the cushion-ness
of the ride. I certainly feel the difference of the increased tyre wall height. The back seat ride has been transformed. But then again, as I said before, I may be wrong here.
1. Not just Goodyear GT3 is a spoil sport, also MRF ZVTS that is OEM on some ANHCs belongs to the same club.
2. Should I say, two wrongs don't make one right, or two wrongs makes one doubt? It is not necessary that a higher profile tyre will provide more 'cushion-ness'. The sidewalls of some tyres are softer than others. Next time you happen to be in a tyre shop, if you have a chance to check the firmness and flexibility of the sidewalls of a 'run flat' tyre (like Pirelli P Zero or Goodyear NCT5) you will understand what I mean. Pirelli P1 I have on my car (60 profile) is a bit more firmer than a Primacy ST 3 of the same profile (my garage owner, wiho has been into racing for many years, agrees, and having tried his Octavia shod on 205/60/15 Primacy ST 3). So, it is not necessary that a higher profile gives you more cushioning effect on the ride. But in ST 3, you indeed have a very comfy and quite tyre, no questions about that.
2. Should I say, two wrongs don't make one right, or two wrongs makes one doubt? It is not necessary that a higher profile tyre will provide more 'cushion-ness'. The sidewalls of some tyres are softer than others. Next time you happen to be in a tyre shop, if you have a chance to check the firmness and flexibility of the sidewalls of a 'run flat' tyre (like Pirelli P Zero or Goodyear NCT5) you will understand what I mean. Pirelli P1 I have on my car (60 profile) is a bit more firmer than a Primacy ST 3 of the same profile (my garage owner, wiho has been into racing for many years, agrees, and having tried his Octavia shod on 205/60/15 Primacy ST 3). So, it is not necessary that a higher profile gives you more cushioning effect on the ride. But in ST 3, you indeed have a very comfy and quite tyre, no questions about that.
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What else do I need..
Cheers to that !!
Cheers to that !!
Hello everyone,
I notice that a lot of users have upgraded/modified their cars - lights, tyres, HUs, etc. Many seem to have made the upgrades outside the dealerships. I'm just wondering wouldn't void warranty? How does one ensure after market upgrades retain warranty? For example, if we upgrade the tyre to another size or add projector lamps.
My understanding is that warranty is retained only if we make changes through dealership. If this has been discussed elsewhere, please let me know.
I notice that a lot of users have upgraded/modified their cars - lights, tyres, HUs, etc. Many seem to have made the upgrades outside the dealerships. I'm just wondering wouldn't void warranty? How does one ensure after market upgrades retain warranty? For example, if we upgrade the tyre to another size or add projector lamps.
My understanding is that warranty is retained only if we make changes through dealership. If this has been discussed elsewhere, please let me know.
This is indeed a very relevant question - "...to tweak or not to tweak: that is the question..."
To understand the situation, this is what the actual warranty might say, "...the dealer will repair or replace any part which proves to be defective within the limits of warranty at no charges to the customer for parts and labor..." or something along these lines.
The right answer, in my opinion, is to stay with original components until warranty period is over (2 year standard or 4 year extended) and then do whatever you seem fit.
And the important thing is to follow service intervals recommended by the manufacturer during warranty period. This is an example of what may happen if you don't, (a real life story involving a Toyota small car). A friend, who does not use the car much, after the first dealer service, did bother not send in car for the second service because he thought it had not put on enough mileage. But he did however, change the engine oil himself at home, using the same brand and type that the dealer uses. About six months later, when he took the car in for service, he was told that one of the cylinder block had loss of compression (chipped piston ring, perhaps?). He was asked to pay for the repairs because, one, he had not brought it in for the scheduled second service (where it may have been detected), and two, because he had changed the engine oil himself. From any point of view this is clearly a 'manufacturing defect' that could not have been cause by mere engine oil change by the owner. Had he changed brake fluid at home and not the engine oil (assuming he is mechanically adept), the warranty would have probably covered the repairs. It was not covered because the owner failed to read the warranty / owners manual and engine oil has everything to do with the engine and its components. The dealer probably knows that it is a manufacturing defect, but preferred to throw the book at the owner.
However, certain things (especially those not mentioned in the Owner's Manual) will not void the warranty terms - cosmetic items like fitting door handle covers, a grill badge, window films. paint treatment, seat covers, etc. Certain items can be easily removed before the car is sent for its scheduled service within warranty period, example, a GPS tracking system installed in the car's diagnostic port (remember the diagnostic port is meant for the service guys not the owner - debatable), or Pete's Tuning Box (for BHP/torque enhancement diesel cars) which can be removed in 10 minutes, K&N air filters, etc.
In replacing any component during warranty period, one has use some common sense. Eg:
- OEM headlights are dull, replace them with bighter (30% more) H4s like Osram Nightbreaker Plus (which are same as OEM 55/60 wattage rating).
- Want to replace those 175 skinny bicycle tyres, arm your self with the knowledge of OEM tyre fitted in other markets and go for what is the widest on offer, you could get away with it (yes, you will be surprised at what you find, and good that Honda does not follow identical fittment on global scale, Indians can do all right on skinny tyres).
Honda City 2011 - Wheel & Tire Sizes, PCD, Offset and Rims specs - Wheel-Size.com
- Walk into the best dealership in your city and see what the dealer himself has on offer as "optional" when you pretend to be buying a car. You will be surprised to see so many items (like ICE, Head units, spoilers, alloy wheels, etc) that are not even mentioned in the them manufacturer's list of options.
Food for thought: If you drive in with wider wheels/tyres (say, within OEM limits), and if you seat belt tension spring is broken and does not work, can they refuse to cover the repair when the car is under warranty? I don't think so.
Add this to your Honda India data-base:
- 72,115 Honda City cars recalled for defective power window switches.
- 11,381 Honda Accord, CR-V recalled for faulty airbags.
- 1,225 Honda Amaze recalled for faulty airbags.
- 31,226 Honda Amaze and Brio recalled for faulty brake valve in non-ABS systems.
- 57,800 Honda City recalled due to faulty rocker arm springs in the engine.
So, it not a problem free car manufacturer, but they are a decent company to deal with. However, if you are not ready to play mind games with the dealer, do you mods after the warranty period is over.
To understand the situation, this is what the actual warranty might say, "...the dealer will repair or replace any part which proves to be defective within the limits of warranty at no charges to the customer for parts and labor..." or something along these lines.
The right answer, in my opinion, is to stay with original components until warranty period is over (2 year standard or 4 year extended) and then do whatever you seem fit.
And the important thing is to follow service intervals recommended by the manufacturer during warranty period. This is an example of what may happen if you don't, (a real life story involving a Toyota small car). A friend, who does not use the car much, after the first dealer service, did bother not send in car for the second service because he thought it had not put on enough mileage. But he did however, change the engine oil himself at home, using the same brand and type that the dealer uses. About six months later, when he took the car in for service, he was told that one of the cylinder block had loss of compression (chipped piston ring, perhaps?). He was asked to pay for the repairs because, one, he had not brought it in for the scheduled second service (where it may have been detected), and two, because he had changed the engine oil himself. From any point of view this is clearly a 'manufacturing defect' that could not have been cause by mere engine oil change by the owner. Had he changed brake fluid at home and not the engine oil (assuming he is mechanically adept), the warranty would have probably covered the repairs. It was not covered because the owner failed to read the warranty / owners manual and engine oil has everything to do with the engine and its components. The dealer probably knows that it is a manufacturing defect, but preferred to throw the book at the owner.
However, certain things (especially those not mentioned in the Owner's Manual) will not void the warranty terms - cosmetic items like fitting door handle covers, a grill badge, window films. paint treatment, seat covers, etc. Certain items can be easily removed before the car is sent for its scheduled service within warranty period, example, a GPS tracking system installed in the car's diagnostic port (remember the diagnostic port is meant for the service guys not the owner - debatable), or Pete's Tuning Box (for BHP/torque enhancement diesel cars) which can be removed in 10 minutes, K&N air filters, etc.
In replacing any component during warranty period, one has use some common sense. Eg:
- OEM headlights are dull, replace them with bighter (30% more) H4s like Osram Nightbreaker Plus (which are same as OEM 55/60 wattage rating).
- Want to replace those 175 skinny bicycle tyres, arm your self with the knowledge of OEM tyre fitted in other markets and go for what is the widest on offer, you could get away with it (yes, you will be surprised at what you find, and good that Honda does not follow identical fittment on global scale, Indians can do all right on skinny tyres).
Honda City 2011 - Wheel & Tire Sizes, PCD, Offset and Rims specs - Wheel-Size.com
- Walk into the best dealership in your city and see what the dealer himself has on offer as "optional" when you pretend to be buying a car. You will be surprised to see so many items (like ICE, Head units, spoilers, alloy wheels, etc) that are not even mentioned in the them manufacturer's list of options.
Food for thought: If you drive in with wider wheels/tyres (say, within OEM limits), and if you seat belt tension spring is broken and does not work, can they refuse to cover the repair when the car is under warranty? I don't think so.
Add this to your Honda India data-base:
- 72,115 Honda City cars recalled for defective power window switches.
- 11,381 Honda Accord, CR-V recalled for faulty airbags.
- 1,225 Honda Amaze recalled for faulty airbags.
- 31,226 Honda Amaze and Brio recalled for faulty brake valve in non-ABS systems.
- 57,800 Honda City recalled due to faulty rocker arm springs in the engine.
So, it not a problem free car manufacturer, but they are a decent company to deal with. However, if you are not ready to play mind games with the dealer, do you mods after the warranty period is over.
Wow, thanks a lot for the detailed response, Essarr! Honestly, I never expected such an informative and detailed response to my query and I really appreciate it. I've been planning to get an automatic (Honda City/Honda Jazz/Hyundai Elite i20 or Creta if they come in AT) and have been wondering whether I should go for the the City SV variant
or the Jazz V (top AT variant). I'm worried if the 1.2l CVT would be underpowered given that the City and Jazz doent have a lot of weigh difference (say 20kgs, per global reports).
Skinny tyres, headlights, and reverse camera (in case of City SV) are what I had in mind as part of upgrades. I heard that Honda can be picky about such mods so I was worried. So what I understand is that you are saying that I can make the upgrades mentioned above provided they are within OEM limits but in case the dealer does create an issue, I should be ready to show that Honda itself doesn't follow a uniform standard. But most of them, I shouldn't have trouble from dealers. Hope my understanding is correct:) BTW, I am in Chennai too so would you have any suggestions as which is the best Honda dealer:)? If it's not allowed to be mentioned on this forum, I apologize for asking.
or the Jazz V (top AT variant). I'm worried if the 1.2l CVT would be underpowered given that the City and Jazz doent have a lot of weigh difference (say 20kgs, per global reports).
Skinny tyres, headlights, and reverse camera (in case of City SV) are what I had in mind as part of upgrades. I heard that Honda can be picky about such mods so I was worried. So what I understand is that you are saying that I can make the upgrades mentioned above provided they are within OEM limits but in case the dealer does create an issue, I should be ready to show that Honda itself doesn't follow a uniform standard. But most of them, I shouldn't have trouble from dealers. Hope my understanding is correct:) BTW, I am in Chennai too so would you have any suggestions as which is the best Honda dealer:)? If it's not allowed to be mentioned on this forum, I apologize for asking.
Hi Friend
Following are my thoughts with respect to the modifications you are considering:
> Tire upgrade: Shouldn't void warranty. But some service centers are fuzzy about non OEM alloy wheels
> Headlight upgrades: Not advised by most manufacturers / service centers. But is safe as long it is done by experts - with proper wiring kits, ceramic holders etc. Original wiring and holders could be left untouched. In case of issues, the upgrade can be removed and warranty claimed
> Reverse camera: Can be done with dealer itself.. since this might need some tampering with the wiring..
Following are my thoughts with respect to the modifications you are considering:
> Tire upgrade: Shouldn't void warranty. But some service centers are fuzzy about non OEM alloy wheels
> Headlight upgrades: Not advised by most manufacturers / service centers. But is safe as long it is done by experts - with proper wiring kits, ceramic holders etc. Original wiring and holders could be left untouched. In case of issues, the upgrade can be removed and warranty claimed
> Reverse camera: Can be done with dealer itself.. since this might need some tampering with the wiring..
I think it would be unfair to pick one among three in Chennai, and I didn't buy my car from a Honda dealer, so I can't really answer that (perhaps, the moderator will step in if I do). Your best bet, go to all three dealers and see who you're comfortable with.
I have a question: If you're looking at a 2015 Jazz or City automatic, you will only get a stodgy CVT with both models. I think the previous model (2014-and backwards) City had a better 4-speed auto box.
I have a question: If you're looking at a 2015 Jazz or City automatic, you will only get a stodgy CVT with both models. I think the previous model (2014-and backwards) City had a better 4-speed auto box.
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