My New Honda City in White - The Albus


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My 2012 Honda City has pretty low runs, say 100-200 kms in a month or so. So, let’s assume my car covers a maximum of 3000-4000kms annually. The CITY manual suggests a 6 month oil change interval, should I go for the same? I believe I should change the filter (oil and fuel), and not the engine oil. Will it be okay if I use the same OEM engine oil (mineral) for a full year? Will the oil go bad; lose its properties in a year, in a sparsely used car like mine? I was planning to go for synthetic oil, but it doesn’t make sense. What do you guys suggest?
I'm in the same boat. 200km max per month or a little higher if I go to neighboring cities. So its not possible for me to keep up with servicing schedule. Presently ODO in my car is 50k whereas I got 70k servicing done last week and they have done all the checkup instructions made for 70k. ASC won't repeat the service schedule once its done nor they will change oil off the record. 1 year ago, I got 60k servicing done, which includes gear oil change (Its a major service). This time ASC skipped 65k and moved 70k because 1 year has passed. [roll]

As of Engine oil degrade, yes it does especially mineral oil. Its recommended to change the mineral oil within 6 but sometimes we can use it upto 8 months. Now that Honda has moved to semi-synthetic oil, IMO it would be fine to change every year. Incase you want to opt-out from ASC, you may choose Castrol Magnatec 5w-30 or 10w-40 which is a semi-synthetic oil. Along with engine oil, you'll also need to change oil filter.

As of fuel filter, you need to change that every 80k km only.
 
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Hello Friends

My car gets a new ignition key ring and this time its a self-illuminating. Previously I had non-luminous ring which was cracked in transit and still I was using it (Post #883). It was boring and I thought to try something new.

I received the product today and affixed the same by evening but unfortunately and unexpectedly, it hindered the function of ignition key (There no room left for the key to go in and revert back while turning it from off to ACC position and vice versa). I say unexpected because the listing of the product says that its for Honda cars including City. Link to listing. [frustration]

The red bezel is made of thick aluminum and self-illuminating rubber aka radium is glued on it. First I tried to sand it but it was a hopeless job. So I had to separate them and affix only the radium ring. Finally its looking good and ignition key works fine. The ring requires charging or activation by exposure to bright light and then it will glow in the dark for few mins. I have used mobile flash on it for few secs and it glowed bright in green color. Red bezel would have looked much better like a push button start but I miss it.

ps. Here you can find details of different ignition key rings written by Dr. Ji.

Thanks...
Best Regards
 

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@ CRacing.
So glad that at last you have upgraded to Brembo. I should have done the same but not knowing I went ahead and changed as per Honda showroom and it cost a fair bit. Next time around I will use Brembo.
Waiting for post 200 kms feedback.!!
 
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As much as I like Michellin I have to say their tyres are a little too gentle for Indian Roads. One of my 195 /60/ 15 tyres (about 2000 kms old) has a bulge. My previous experience with XM 1 also had a similar issue. Tyres are brilliant but next time I would probably move to Bridgestone who have a reputation of being hardier.
 
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I am confused with engine oil grades, and unable to decide which one will be best for my 2012iVtec. Worst part is, local service centres recommend 0w20 fully synthetic oil, but the manual says a different story. 0w20 is not at all recommended. [frustration]
 
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I am confused with engine oil grades, and unable to decide which one will be best for my 2012iVtec. Worst part is, local service centres recommend 0w20 fully synthetic oil, but the manual says a different story. 0w20 is not at all recommended. [frustration]
I was in same dilemma few weeks ago but ended up going to ASC instead.

I'd suggest Castrol Magnatec MAGNATEC 10w40 which is semi synthetic oil. Incase you do stop-start frequently then go for 5w30. I think 5w30 is good for winter session and 10w40 for summer.

If you want fully synthetic oil, then go for 5W-40. Motul 8100 Xcess is my favorite. [:)]
 
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Thanks for the response. What is super confusing is why Honda service centres are recommending 0W20, when temperatures in Bhubaneswar is generally on the higher side throughout the year, barring few months. 0W20 viscosity will go for toss in such conditions. I feel 5W40 and 10W40 will suit best.
 
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My car an automatic has done about 35,000 kms. Barring the initial services (where i was strictly adhering to service centre instructions) I now change my oil around 7500 kms-8000 kms. My last service was about 5 months ago.
 
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I installed Autocop remote central lock system in my 2012 Honda City iVtec. It works like a charm. No issues till now. However, the Autocop technician warned me that the door lever wire snaps easily after repeated use. He added that this issue is only with Honda City 3rd gen models (2008-2012). The replacement costs of the door lever wire assembly is somewhere around Rs.5000/- (not confirmed though). I took a chance, as I have come across many City owners who use the same without any issue. Fingers crossed.
 
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Sorry, I cannot say anything positive or negative about Plati alloy wheels simply because I have not come acoss them. Two things I can say though, one, the rim that you have shown interest in (PR-1410) is not a direct fit for Honda City 2011 because the Offset is too short (ET30) and the Centre Bore dia (CB 67.1) is bigger than ANHC's hub CB of 56.1 mm. Two, I don't see any standards of approval on Plati's website, like certifications from TUV, JAA, ISO, etc. That will be a deterrent for me to buy something from there. So, look for quality assurance certification from any manufacturer because wheels and tyres are critical safety components as far as I am concered.


I have used quite a few alloy wheels between 1979 and 1995. I will approve all them, but they are very expensive and may not have a suitable size for ANHC. These, in progressive order of upgrades are, Alpina, BMW factory alloys, Borbet and last and the best BBS (two sets because one set was stolen). In India my research led me to HRS of Taiwan, who happen have a very decent reputation for quality and reasonable prices. I have not put enough mileage on them to say, close your eyes and buy them. I have earlier mentioned a few brands, brands that I only know from friends and my garage: HRS-Taiwan, Freeman Racing, X2 Wheels, OZ Wheels, MOMO-Italy.



These are the 3 important number you have to hold on to when replacing same diameter wheels with alloys (15") in ANHC (2002 to 2013):

1. PCD : 100 mm / 4 Holes (any deviation here and the wheel WILL NOT FIT).
image


2. Offset (ET): positive 48 mm* (up to +/- 3% will show no undesired effect)


Note 1 : Offset is based on the rim width, wider the rim lesser the Offset in order to maintain the same or similar profile in relation to the wheel arch profile (so that it does not jut outside the car). I cannot find the specs provided by Honda India. This is a number (+48*) I got from Australian blogs and wheel dealers as OEM and probably refers to 185/55R15 on 5.5J width wheels.

Note 2 : In selecting a wheel with lesser positive offset, one can increase it to the desired level by bolting on a spacer between the alloy wheel and wheel mount hub. Say, if you get a wheel with ET32 offset, then a 6mm to 8mm spacer will bring the wheel out to desired factory settings. Same diameter alloy rim with ET45 will protrude outside by 7mm and nothing can be done to reduce it to factory level. Too much of a wheel/tyre protrusion outside the wheel arch can be DANGEROUS. Such car-model-specific spacers to increase the ET may be available with better wheel/tyre dealers.
image

Note 3: My HRS alloys specs are 15 x 6,5J, ET+40 and CB 56.1mm with 195/60R15 tyres. Yes it is slightly more outward than stock, but the wheel and tyre combo does not protrude one bit out side the profile of the wheel arches.


3. CB (Centre Bore diameter): 56.1 mm (+1% tolerance may be acceptable. Smaller, it won't fit).

Note 4 : This is the diameter of the hole on the alloy wheel which is inserted into the wheel axle hub.

Note 5 : Similar to the ET offset spacer, a hub ring spacer may be commercially available if the CB diameter is larger than specs (56.1 mm).

Note 6 : Car specific ET spacers will have this dimension incorporated. If a custom made spacer has to manufactured at a local mechanical machine-shop lathe, then this dimensions have to be provided. (I wouldn't take this course)

HI,

I changed my mind lately. you may think its weird, Is it possible to keep OEM steel rim and upgrade tires to 195/60/15??[:D]
 

Akash1886

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I installed Autocop remote central lock system in my 2012 Honda City iVtec. It works like a charm. No issues till now. However, the Autocop technician warned me that the door lever wire snaps easily after repeated use. He added that this issue is only with Honda City 3rd gen models (2008-2012). The replacement costs of the door lever wire assembly is somewhere around Rs.5000/- (not confirmed though). I took a chance, as I have come across many City owners who use the same without any issue. Fingers crossed.
My car is 2011 model and I had faced this issue some months ago. The lever wire costs only Rs. 80/-. Please find attached the bill for the same.

20170502_165804.jpg

If you need, please refer to my post here.

Regards

Akash
 

kkn13

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HI,

I changed my mind lately. you may think its weird, Is it possible to keep OEM steel rim and upgrade tires to 195/60/15??[:D]
I doubt, I couldnt upgrade to 195 on stock alloys without changing
look for oem alloys in used market and put 185 on them, itll run like a dream and wont be too expensive
 
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As much as I like Michellin I have to say their tyres are a little too gentle for Indian Roads. One of my 195 /60/ 15 tyres (about 2000 kms old) has a bulge. My previous experience with XM 1 also had a similar issue. Tyres are brilliant but next time I would probably move to Bridgestone who have a reputation of being hardier.
Hello
You can also Consider Yokohama Decibel 195/60 R15 V550 (Stock Rims). I have been using them and its about 10K KMS done. Honestly, its a gem of rubber. Noiseless, as smooth as it can be.

This particular model is (Made In Japan), my tyre dealer was saying, Yokohama has introduced specially for Indian Roads, Yokohama Earth, the Grip design has little difference.

Best....... BK[:)]
 
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Hello
You can also Consider Yokohama Decibel 195/60 R15 V550 (Stock Rims). I have been using them and its about 10K KMS done. Honestly, its a gem of rubber. Noiseless, as smooth as it can be.

This particular model is (Made In Japan), my tyre dealer was saying, Yokohama has introduced specially for Indian Roads, Yokohama Earth, the Grip design has little difference.

Best....... BK[:)]
Thank you. An alternative to the Michellin Bridgestone duopoly in the premium bracket is certainly welcome.
On the other I wonder what the good Dr. is upto? Its been a long time since for him to be idle. Unless he is meditating in the mountains its high time he contributed here. Same goes for CR7 Ravib etc...
 
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