Maruti Suzuki Wagon-R Stingray Ownership Review


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dear viper, i have done all sorts of alteration and R&D in waggy, using multiple amps and different speakers.
yes bro i know .. :)
and thats the reason i am pinching you this much :D

will try both options... under seat one .. and pad mount one.. and check.

i guess i will face problem in underseat install.

i hope i will suced in pad enclosure idea.

thank you
 
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Thread Starter #227
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hi guys, waggy reached its Maximum run in period of 20k kms

i have been changing oil as shown before

fully synthetic stock till 10,000 k kms ( replaced oil filter at 3k kms )

at 10k kms moved to normal mineral oil castrol GTX ( reason - minerals are better at runnin period with frequent oil change) , replaced oil filter too .

at 15k kms - same oil with filter replaced in outside garage.

now i am in 20k kms. engine oil seems to start degrading.

from now onwards i wil be switching to 0w40 synthetic . for change interval of 10k kms .

please suggest me a tried and tested good engine oil.

because now car is silky mooth at 2.5 k rpm, you cant hear engine at all.

at 3k rpm no vibration or noise in cabin as before in 5 to 16k kms . ( you can hear the engine if windows down. )

engine makes out a good healthy sound till 4k rpm.

at 5 k it becomes a beast!! .
 
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Thread Starter #228
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20,000 kms service .

warning: Always do service at company service centers at correct time, to avoid warrenty isues and claims.

this is done by me at my own risk. and with my experiences .

guys, did the 3rd service for stingray myself in my home garage.

items bought:

oil castrol 20 w 40
oil filter
1 lit anti freeze
half liter dot3 brake fluid
3 liters of distilled water
air filter
cabin air filter

total cost Rs.2160
tools and other items
copper grease
degreaser
rustleak
silicon grease
engine oil flush

new tool added to garage:
hydraulic lift
oil filter remove tool

what i did :

>jacked up wheels , removed tyres
>removed calipers
>cleaned with brake cleaner
>removed old and added caliper grease to the boots
>removed drum cover and cleaned with compressed air, sprayed silicon grease to the springs , fitted cover back
>bleaded and filled the brake fluid simultaneously in order of front right,rear left,front left, rear right.
> silicon greased caliper pin and fitted the pads
>fitted tyres back and jacked down.
> removed bumper
> removed radiator hose , bottom side, collected coolant in a pan,
> started engine with heater on , and filled water on top cap and flushing the system by simultaneously collecting the water in bottom. and closed the bottom tube and top cap with plain water as coolant and left car till thermostat opens and radiator fan works
, revved car after fan stared running and turned off engine and left it to cool for 10 mins
> opened cap slighty and release the pressure and drained the whole system and filled with 1 lit of anti freeze (green) and rest distilled water.

> cleaned reservoir tank and filled with distilled water up-to the level marked.

> added 30ml of Bosch engine flush to engine oil and idled car for 5 mins
> drained oil and changed oil filter
> topped up 3l of oil

> sprayed de-greaser to engine bay where dirt's and grease dust where there
> cleaned with soft grizzle brush all over , all u need is some elbow grease [evil]
> pressure hosed the dirt
> took for water wash nearby without bumper and cleaned engine bay, radiator , gear cable joints and under body, also interior and exterior Rs.300 for it [clap]
>came back and fitted all back and went for alignment and balancing
>polished the interior and exterior
>topped up battery water
>tighten head cover bolts
> other chassis bolts
lubricated : bonnet hinge, rear door hinge ,all door hinges
> drove about 10 kms , and checked coolent , brake , engine oil level.
> came back and bleaded brake fluid a bit , as i felt a bit spongy and after it was good .

>>>>>>>>> that s it as of now [glasses]
 

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bhvm

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Wow!
Great to hear from you after long mr Sting!
You're really lucky to have the skills and balls to really perform the maint at home.

Whats your latest Odo Btw? And Whats your top speed so far?
 
Thread Starter #230
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My latest odo is 23k and my top speed is 160 at Fourth gear. .
150 at fifth gear
Engine is silky smooth and idling is quiet.
And silent ride at 120 kmph at top gear at 3k rpm.
My ideal gear shifting is at 3k rpm, actually my friends and other waggy owners tend to change at 2k rpm, but i felt those cars sluggish and roufgh.

Actually i get better mileage in 3k rpm shifts.
Where engine hits its sweet spot and smoothens out naturally.

Upto 6k rpm from 3k rpm. At any gear. Car picks up like a beast.

Im really happy with the ride .

Actually i am changing engine oil for every 5k kms.
It also lead to smooth engine setting.
 

bhvm

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that's really great. I'm surprised your top speed comes at 4th and not 5th!

I'll try 3k shifting with my i10 as I'm finding it sluggish and FE is not Great too.
 
Thread Starter #232
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Bhvm.. Its just not about shifting.
In cities ill keep in 3rd and cruise between overtakes and keep the engine high up but not giving too much load. In that manner fuel will be pumped less and Also we can move quicker in just a pump and again Cruise back in a bit high reves at 3k ~ rpms.
Ill rarely go 4th if roads are free and above 60kmph only.
If u be in Fourth at 40 then if u wanna overtake, car ill be sluggish and also i need to throttle more inorder to get the work done and Also takes time to react.
So keeping engine in revs and less gear makes quick and also stay light in pedal.
 

bhvm

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Sting,
This makes sense probably.
I'm coming from driving diesels all along, and it could just be that petrol needs more revvs to keep happy? petrol BHP/Torque peaks much higher in RPM than Diesel.

When I brought the i10 new, I used to upshift about 2k Rpm. Internet/ Forums is full of such suggestions (Which I think now are worng). The Car feels SLOW like turtles and FE is not that good- maybe about 13~15.

I will try Gunning the engine and let you know. Will revving till 4k Rpm help for upshifts?
 
Thread Starter #234
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Revving too hard also can decrease mileage . .mostly those points have heavy fueling in maps.
3k to 3.5 is sweet spot where most of torque lies and fades away.

If u have a power torque curve for your engine. You can check it out

Also if u have setup your engine in low rpm,
I doubt will engine be happy at those points.
Mostly i seen second owners having cars set at low rpm, gets roufgh at high and also can lead to engine complaints. So try it.. If not getting the fE try 2.5 k for 5k kms and rev more after
 

bhvm

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I could'nt find the Power curve for my engines. Its an 1.1 L IRDE2 4ycl engine. Older one before Kappa and VTVT.

What do you mean "Set at low RPM"?
The engine is ECU controlled and "Learns" as per our driving style. If the car returns from a long Highway trip (My speeds are 120-140), The car does not work well at low RPM. The Engine tends to clip out during start-stop city traffic and also when tacking Speed breakers.

Also, When car is driven mostly in city (below 50 Kmph) The engine remains tractable but acceleration becomes very poor. I Guess you can't have both from such a small engine.
 
Thread Starter #236
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Yea, car does that, but not permanently, after few rides it switches itself to driving style.

What im saying is, some times people always drives slowly light footed and dont like to revv hard.
And those cars mostly will be fine at low rpms after 5,000 kms , and if we rev, it does struggle and make more engine sound than a good setted engine in high revs. 3 to 4k rpms im saying.
Ie atleast 4 to 5 times car does that rpm every 20 kms of drive.
 
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Hi Stingray91,
Your DIY pictures are very informative. Can you please upload pictures about how to remove door panel. I want to do damping inside door panels. I removed screes and rivets but door panel is still stuck to the door.
 
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is it possible to install angel rings around projector lamps in stingray ? have you tried it ?
Possible - Yes. Everything is possible.

Advisable - No. First, warranty goes in for a toss. Second, if there is less space between stock projectors and assembly lens, fitting external angel eyes will not let the assembly lens sit perfectly. Third, you need either hot glue or drilling to fix external angel eyes to the projector. This is risky (as new assembly will cost you a good amount) and not reliable (as most of the aftermarket kits are low quality).

I would advise against this idea. Spend the money on HIDs, or ICE instead! [lol]
 
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P_20160303_232804_1_HDR_p.jpg hi all

Replaced the stock bulbs with following combinatiosn
1) Philips H7 85814 HID Headlight Bulb (85V, 35W, 2 Bulbs) using Philips XLDCK G4 Ballast (85V, 35W, 2 Control Boxes)

with H7 Headlight Bulbs wiring kit harness with relay in low beams and
2) Philips Rally 80W H7 (924007117121) Headlight Blub (Set Of 2Pcs) using Philips H4 Heavy Duty Relay Wiring Kit 12003XM

for High Power (100/90W or 130/100W) Lamps using H4 to H7 ceramic converter and
3) SMART HID Kit by Autosmart 35W Blaster with Hid Xenon replacement H8 Bulb For All Cars / Bikes 6000K for Fog Lamp

powered by Auto DC 12v HID Xenon Conversion Kit Harness Fuse Relay Wiring For H8 HID Cables

Attaching pics from my parking lot will try to get good pics next time.

Also bought below products
1) 36W 12-LED 3060lm 6000K Spot Work Light Bar Offroad SUV ATV Lamp (DC 10V~30V)
2) Rocket R3 H7 LED Car Headlight CREE XHP-50 Chips 12V Car Headlight 40W 4800LM Aluminum LED Headlight conversion Kit, awaiting for shipment delivery.
 
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