HID Xenons Headlamps: Discussions & Queries


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Yes switch like you mentioned should be good if it works like that. Like the most of h/l switches in bike works. But this switch has some extra wires. You may have to test which one for which use.

Regarding solenoid wiring
Red is +
Black is -

You can connect black to any nearest ground from car body. And red to simple to simple on/off switch getting positive from fuse tap. Thus simple switch will control positive going from fuse tap to solenoid positive.

Now that you want momentary on/off for flash and full time high beam switch. But also you want to run it of oem fog lamp. So your momentary switch won't flash until unless your pilot is on. Now to sought that you have to run an independent wiring of car battery using inline fuse and then connect it to momentary switch and also a diode in between to prevent high beam all the time.

Now this thing works easily in bike as momentary switch power high beam filament of bulb. But the same switch in case of bi-xenon projector will flip solenoid only. So to cope that positive of solenoid and positive going into ballasts are to be connected together to that switch in case you want direct flashes during day.

I would recommend you to use independent wiring for them since you want flash from off
 
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Black wire, I assume is ground, should go to unpainted metal Chasis. This is your negative. (You can double check from TDAUTOZ)

Now Red wire should be positive, which will go to switch or relay as required. Don't blame yourself Over electricals, Everyone started small.[:)]
Thank You

Yes switch like you mentioned should be good if it works like that. Like the most of h/l switches in bike works. But this switch has some extra wires. You may have to test which one for which use.

Regarding solenoid wiring
Red is +
Black is -

You can connect black to any nearest ground from car body. And red to simple to simple on/off switch getting positive from fuse tap. Thus simple switch will control positive going from fuse tap to solenoid positive.

Now that you want momentary on/off for flash and full time high beam switch. But also you want to run it of oem fog lamp. So your momentary switch won't flash until unless your pilot is on. Now to sought that you have to run an independent wiring of car battery using inline fuse and then connect it to momentary switch and also a diode in between to prevent high beam all the time.

Now this thing works easily in bike as momentary switch power high beam filament of bulb. But the same switch in case of bi-xenon projector will flip solenoid only. So to cope that positive of solenoid and positive going into ballasts are to be connected together to that switch in case you want direct flashes during day.

I would recommend you to use independent wiring for them since you want flash from off
Sir, I didn't said I want flash from off as I will be running HIDs so I avoid flashing during daytime as much as possible. I even don't flash during day as of now because my headlight low beams are HIDs too and unlike many cars, both the low and high beams fires up while flashing.
The projectors will come on in low beam from the OEM switch(only after pilots are on) as I will use the oem fog wiring harness to power the ballasts.
So, the new switch will be used to flash the lights or keep them in high beam on after I switch them on in low beam mode.

I hope you understand what I am looking for.

Thanks
 
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bhvm

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Thank You



Sir, I didn't said I want flash from off as I will be running HIDs so I avoid flashing during daytime as much as possible. I even don't flash during day as of now because my headlight low beams are HIDs too and unlike many cars, both the low and high beams fires up while flashing.
The projectors will come on in low beam from the OEM switch(only after pilots are on) as I will use the oem fog wiring harness to power the ballasts.
So, the new switch will be used to flash the lights or keep them in high beam on after I switch them on in low beam mode.

I hope you understand what I am looking for.

Thanks
Buddy, As long as the HID ballasts are powered by Standard FOG wiring (Which comes on with OEM switch and after pilot lamps/ Low beams are ON) They WILL NOT FLASH when you trigger the projector high beam solenoid shield with any new wiring. It will just lift the shield as a dry run.

I hope we are on same wavelength now?

P.S- What Mayur is saying is also correct, But that wiring method is totally different.
However, I do not suggest running diodes to trigger HID ballasts during flashing due to damage to HID system and also diode will overheat due to sudden inrush current.
 
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Buddy, As long as the HID ballasts are powered by Standard FOG wiring (Which comes on with OEM switch and after pilot lamps/ Low beams are ON) They WILL NOT FLASH when you trigger the projector high beam solenoid shield with any new wiring. It will just lift the shield as a dry run.

I hope we are on same wavelength now?
I think so.

I will use the flash function only when the projectors are in low beam mode.
Otherwise, as you said, they will just do the dry run.

P.S- What Mayur is saying is also correct, But that wiring method is totally different.
However, I do not suggest running diodes to trigger HID ballasts during flashing due to damage to HID system and also diode will overheat due to sudden inrush current.
Got it. I don't even flash during daytime to keep the already present ballasts healthy.

1. I just want the projectors to function independent of the headlights.
2. No flashing during daytime or when only the pilots are on.
3. High beam and flash function for the projectors only after switching them on.
4. My wiring requirements are for the solenoids only.
 
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ok so you have double barrel as bhvm has already suggested all the options available to you hid or led the last one being the projector

the fxr is a big projector and needs a lot of cutting to fit and difficult to install (experienced installer recommended)

the d2s is a bolt on type projector so can be installed and adjusted easily

if your budget is 15k for projectors sorry to say but morimoto products will not
fit that budget
Hi,

I plan to get the Nexon sometime near this festive season. I wish to upgrade the headlights to LEDs/HIDs. It has a low beam halogen projector and high beam halogen reflector. I have some options to consider :

1. Install Philips ultinon LEDs in the high beam reflectors.

2. Install LEDs/HIDs in the low beam projectors and let the halogens be as is.

3. Install ultinons in reflectors and LEDs/HIDs in projectors (Overkill and least favourable option)

4. Install XP micro bi-xenon projectors.

Would like a setup which won't void warranty and provide good lighting in all conditions.
 
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Thank You



Sir, I didn't said I want flash from off as I will be running HIDs so I avoid flashing during daytime as much as possible. I even don't flash during day as of now because my headlight low beams are HIDs too and unlike many cars, both the low and high beams fires up while flashing.
The projectors will come on in low beam from the OEM switch(only after pilots are on) as I will use the oem fog wiring harness to power the ballasts.
So, the new switch will be used to flash the lights or keep them in high beam on after I switch them on in low beam mode.

I hope you understand what I am looking for.

Thanks

Then its just a piece of cake all you need is to connect ballast input from oem fog lamp socket. This will power on the bulb and you'll have low beam.

Now for high beam
Wire the black of both solenoid to nearest ground from car body.
Run a connection from cabin fuse(any fuse) using fuse tap(preferred), you basically would be getting positive from this fuse to feed it to red wire of solenoid.
Simple on/off and momentary switch should have 2 legs. Connect it in between the positive wire going from fuse tap to solenoid. Switch, in off position will prevent positive from fuse tap to go into solenoid positive and in on position current will flow hence you will have high beam.

Now type of switch and placement
All you need is full time on/off and momentary on/off switch. You may use your switch above.


Additional note:-
Now also you may have to upgrade your fuse from fuse box if hid system is getting low current from oem fog wiring so either it will shut down or won't turn at all so from your cabin fuse box just upgrade fuse. I guess it should be 10 amp fuse upgrade to15 amp. Now if you running if a bigger ballast then you may have to run relay to feed sufficient power to ballast. Now it may or may not required depends how much current oem wiring is providing. But if happens above stated is an easy fix.


Now regarding flashing hid good/bad?
To be specific if you don't flash like maniac, its all good.


Over flashing is what say for example if your hid bulb is going to last say 4 yrs(before going dim/kaput) with excess flashing it will reduce to 3 yrs, 6 mnths.
Alot other factors comes into consideration like bulb quality, ballast power etc. Where aftermarket suffers more oem are more robust.

Remind me of an incident, in my setup I was running CN d2s bulb with dlt f5 and for last year and half I used to flash like anything esply on highway. Anything is as fast as my finger can move to and fro. Well the damage that happened was to relay only. Since intial current draw from fast bright is quite high and that speed flashing put alot load on relay. Conclusion relay still working but one wire sufferdd which was replaced. No damage to bulb and ballasts.

So if one flash normally its all good.
Also in case of aftermarket bulbs. I feel like changing them after 2 and half yrs is good keeping dere low cost and more lumen loss over the time compared to oem.
 

bhvm

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Hi,

I plan to get the Nexon sometime near this festive season. I wish to upgrade the headlights to LEDs/HIDs. It has a low beam halogen projector and high beam halogen reflector. I have some options to consider :

1. Install Philips ultinon LEDs in the high beam reflectors.

2. Install LEDs/HIDs in the low beam projectors and let the halogens be as is.

3. Install ultinons in reflectors and LEDs/HIDs in projectors (Overkill and least favourable option)

4. Install XP micro bi-xenon projectors.

Would like a setup which won't void warranty and provide good lighting in all conditions.
Hello there,
I believe Nexon already comes with Low beam projector.
So your first step should be to Stuff high quality 4300K HID kit in them. I use the same for my XUV and results are phenomenal. You can now go for premium halogens like Philips/Osram in High beams for a very mild upgrade.

If you are still not satisfied, next step will be to find compatible CREE LED for your high beam reflectors and install them. This will be a serious upgrade.

Installing projectors should always be the last option as it will void warranty and its often a can of worms unless the installer is very expert. If at all you do go for this, I suggest keeping the low beam projector as is, But install a Bi-xeonon projector in your high beam bowls. So you will have 4 low beams and 2 bright high beams.

On the sidenote, do consider upgrading to HID kit in OEM fogs. Its a sizeable upgrade.
 
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Hello there,
I believe Nexon already comes with Low beam projector.
So your first step should be to Stuff high quality 4300K HID kit in them. I use the same for my XUV and results are phenomenal. You can now go for premium halogens like Philips/Osram in High beams for a very mild upgrade.

If you are still not satisfied, next step will be to find compatible CREE LED for your high beam reflectors and install them. This will be a serious upgrade.

Installing projectors should always be the last option as it will void warranty and its often a can of worms unless the installer is very expert. If at all you do go for this, I suggest keeping the low beam projector as is, But install a Bi-xeonon projector in your high beam bowls. So you will have 4 low beams and 2 bright high beams.

On the sidenote, do consider upgrading to HID kit in OEM fogs. Its a sizeable upgrade.
Will putting HIDs in halogen projectors give desired results? I have read somewhere that HIDs don't work in Halogen projectors.

If this can work then I don't think I will be needing anything else. Would prefer to keep the fogs halogen then to aid in rain and fog conditions. And might change the reflector bulbs to Nightbreaker Plus or Extreme Vision Plus.
 

bhvm

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absolutely not!
it's a copy design of.proper Cree/Philips design.
what the hell were thinking by mixing cob Led chip with csp type glare shield!?
can you Buy from aliexpress?
 
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Hi,

I plan to get the Nexon sometime near this festive season. I wish to upgrade the headlights to LEDs/HIDs. It has a low beam halogen projector and high beam halogen reflector. I have some options to consider :

1. Install Philips ultinon LEDs in the high beam reflectors.

2. Install LEDs/HIDs in the low beam projectors and let the halogens be as is.

3. Install ultinons in reflectors and LEDs/HIDs in projectors (Overkill and least favourable option)

4. Install XP micro bi-xenon projectors.

Would like a setup which won't void warranty and provide good lighting in all conditions.
1. Yes you can install LEDs in reflectors. I have them in my high beam reflectors.
2. I have HIDs in the low beam projectors. You can leave the halogens in the reflectors or install LEDs.
3. I have this setup. But due to the colour temperatures I am currently using(6000k for HIDs at lowbeam and 6500K LEDs at highbeam(though they feel more like 5000K)), the output of the HIDs is not of much help during rains. I also feel the HIDs has shifted to cooler colours as the output is not what it used to be.
4. I have the XP/Uglare projectors too in the fogs but they are currently running on OEM halogens. Output very much improved than the OEM housings.

Then its just a piece of cake all you need is to connect ballast input from oem fog lamp socket. This will power on the bulb and you'll have low beam.

Will do that.

Now for high beam
Wire the black of both solenoid to nearest ground from car body.
Run a connection from cabin fuse(any fuse) using fuse tap(preferred), you basically would be getting positive from this fuse to feed it to red wire of solenoid.
Simple on/off and momentary switch should have 2 legs. Connect it in between the positive wire going from fuse tap to solenoid. Switch, in off position will prevent positive from fuse tap to go into solenoid positive and in on position current will flow hence you will have high beam.

Now type of switch and placement
All you need is full time on/off and momentary on/off switch. You may use your switch above.

Will do that too. Thank you for the guidance.

Additional note:-
Now also you may have to upgrade your fuse from fuse box if hid system is getting low current from oem fog wiring so either it will shut down or won't turn at all so from your cabin fuse box just upgrade fuse. I guess it should be 10 amp fuse upgrade to15 amp. Now if you running if a bigger ballast then you may have to run relay to feed sufficient power to ballast. Now it may or may not required depends how much current oem wiring is providing. But if happens above stated is an easy fix.

Thats information to me. It didn't occured to me at all. If the system fails, will definitely upgrade the fuse and check. Thank You.
However the OEM bulbs are 35W so I bought 35W HIDs only. They may draw more current.

Now regarding flashing hid good/bad?
To be specific if you don't flash like maniac, its all good.


Over flashing is what say for example if your hid bulb is going to last say 4 yrs(before going dim/kaput) with excess flashing it will reduce to 3 yrs, 6 mnths.
Alot other factors comes into consideration like bulb quality, ballast power etc. Where aftermarket suffers more oem are more robust.

Remind me of an incident, in my setup I was running CN d2s bulb with dlt f5 and for last year and half I used to flash like anything esply on highway. Anything is as fast as my finger can move to and fro. Well the damage that happened was to relay only. Since intial current draw from fast bright is quite high and that speed flashing put alot load on relay. Conclusion relay still working but one wire sufferdd which was replaced. No damage to bulb and ballasts.

So if one flash normally its all good.
Also in case of aftermarket bulbs. I feel like changing them after 2 and half yrs is good keeping dere low cost and more lumen loss over the time compared to oem.
Only the bulbs or the ballasts too? Does it have to do something with the salts/electrodes in the bulbs?
Prakritij, Have you ordered the light switch?

I found this-
Motorcycle Bike ATV Universal 7/8" Switch Horn Turn Signals On/Off Light | eBay

Horn push can be used for flashing.
Regular ON OFF switch for permanent high/low beam.
Seems simple enough.
I bought this: ATV Dirt Bike Motorcycle Stop Cut Kill Switch With Start Starter Button | eBay
I comes without the turn signal indicator switch.
absolutely not!
it's a copy design of.proper Cree/Philips design.
what the hell were thinking by mixing cob Led chip with csp type glare shield!?
can you Buy from aliexpress?
While searching for LEDs before my purchase, I came across this type of bulbs.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10s...lgo_pvid=eef67193-51c2-4b95-863c-790425dca56c

You will notice that only the H4 bulbs has this type of shield but the others(H1, H3, H7, etc.) does not. Maybe for the hi/low function, not sure.
 

bhvm

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