HID Xenons Headlamps: Discussions & Queries


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vinie

vinie

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theEntreriCode said:
Have uploaded the attachment. What are the issues with FXR and what would the pros/cons be of doing d2s vs FXR



I've attached a photo. Sorry if I've made any mistakes. I'll evaluate the fog lamp vs projector upgrade as well. Thanks for the heads up! do the fog lamps work well in the city too? What kind of glare reduction are we talking about here?
Click to expand...
ok so you have double barrel as bhvm has already suggested all the options available to you hid or led the last one being the projector

the fxr is a big projector and needs a lot of cutting to fit and difficult to install (experienced installer recommended)

the d2s is a bolt on type projector so can be installed and adjusted easily

if your budget is 15k for projectors sorry to say but morimoto products will not
fit that budget
 
#1,278
Prakritij

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Hi all
I need some help regarding wiring up the projector solenoids.

Background

I bought projectors to replace the OEM fog lamps on my WagonR Stingray from http://www.uglare.com/product/bi-xenon-fog-projectors/

I also bought a HID kit (H11 4300k 35W) from aliexpress to go into these projectors(yet to arrive).

Requirement

Wiring up the solenoid.
1. The HIDs will replace the OEM bulbs and they will be fired by the OEM fog light switch(low beam by default).
2. Solenoid will not be triggered almost 98% of the time as most of my driving is inside city limits.
3. For the remaining 2% I wish to install a separate switch to trigger the solenoid for getting the high beam.
For this I have selected a motorcycle handlebar switch as below
Switch 1.jpg
The red switch on the pic will be used to keep the lights on high beam as long as required.
The black switch(which is a starter switch for motorcycles) will be used for the pass function.
The switch will be mounted on the gear lever.

The designated wires of the switch are as below:
Switch.jpg

4. I have aftermarket LEDs in place of pilot lamps(also fog light can be switched on only if the pilot lights are on), whose wires were connected via a T10 connector to the OEM pilot bulb socket(hence no splicing of OEM wires).

5. I can connect the solenoid wires to the abovementioned LED wires to get the power.

Please help me out to safely wire up the whole setup as per my requirements.

I am also open to other suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

DRIVE SAFE
 
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mayurhuria

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My questions
You want fog projector to turn on without turning on pilot lamp?
Or are you ok if they turn on like an oem fog would turn on(i.e after turning on pilot lamp)
You are planning to run them in low beam most of the time? Only high for flashing?


Now my possible and preferred solution.
Run low beam of fog projector via oem fog switch but they will turn on after turning on pilot lamp(which I feel is good thing) and for high beam get power from h/l high beam using connectors/splitters. This way fog projector will engage high beam only with h/l high.

Run complete independent wiring and skip fog lamp wiring. Use a similar switch to run low and high and direct connection from battery using relay and fuse tap/ inline fuse. This way ur fogs will run independent of car wiring and can be turned on independtly even if pilot lamps are off.
Cons wiring and appropriate placement of new switch.
 
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bhvm

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Prakritij,
While your requirement and wiring is quite easy, using a bike switch is making things difficult. It seems to be supplying its own power to gear wires, Which is not what we want.

The simplest method will be what mayur already suggested (And I did way back, in other thread), That is to take Bi-xenon shield power from high beam wire.
 
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Prakritij

Prakritij

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mayurhuria said:
My questions
You want fog projector to turn on without turning on pilot lamp?
Or are you ok if they turn on like an oem fog would turn on(i.e after turning on pilot lamp)
You are planning to run them in low beam most of the time? Only high for flashing?

I prefer the projector fog lights to run like the OEM ones, i.e., after the pilot lamps are switched on.
Now my possible and preferred solution.
Run low beam of fog projector via oem fog switch but they will turn on after turning on pilot lamp(which I feel is good thing) and for high beam get power from h/l high beam using connectors/splitters. This way fog projector will engage high beam only with h/l high.

Run complete independent wiring and skip fog lamp wiring. Use a similar switch to run low and high and direct connection from battery using relay and fuse tap/ inline fuse. This way ur fogs will run independent of car wiring and can be turned on independtly even if pilot lamps are off.
Cons wiring and appropriate placement of new switch.
Click to expand...
bhvm said:
Prakritij,
While your requirement and wiring is quite easy, using a bike switch is making things difficult. It seems to be supplying its own power to gear wires, Which is not what we want.

The simplest method will be what mayur already suggested (And I did way back, in other thread), That is to take Bi-xenon shield power from high beam wire.
Click to expand...
I want to use a bike switch as i want to keep the projectors in high beam and flashing mode independent of the head light high beams. As for the bike switch to be mounted on the gear lever, I am inclined towards it because most of the time my left hand is on the lever hence it will be convenient to operate the flash through that switch as I want the projectors to run independently.(my head light low beams are HIDs, high beams are LEDs, knowing HIDs are not flash friendly, when I flash using the light stalk, both hi & low beams comes on).

Simply put:
1. If I tap power from the Head light high beams, both Headlights and fog projectors will come on while flashing/high beam, which I don't need as of now.
2. I want to retain the flashing/high beam capability of both head lights and the projectors to be separate.

Is this possible? I know it is but as I don't have much knowledge about the electricals, I am seeking your help.
Thanks
 
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mayurhuria

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Kk so the switch description is little confusing and looks like simple on/off switch.

Now here are my suggestions
1). Run fog projector with oem fog lamp. Thus low beam will come on with oem foglamp switch but only after turning pilot lamp on. Now for high beam you can connect, solenoid wires to an independent on/off switch. Which can be mounted on gear lever for independent flashing or full time high beam independent of h/l wiring
Cons:- fog projector will only get on after turning pilot lamp on
No direct high beam, first has to turn on foglamp.


2). Use a simple headlight switch of any bike like pulsar/splendor type. Reason bike switch can be mounted easily on gear level. And will have off/low/high and also an independent switch for direct flash from off.
At the bottom you can see I have attached image of h/l switch


3). Run 2 independent on/off switch.
Switch 1:- will only connect to low beam of fog projector.

Switch 2:- will connect high beam solenoid wires and low beam wire input for fog lamp together.

Ofcourse independent wiring from battery with an inline fuse has to be run.

But this way. You can use switch one for city/normal low beam drive. Or switch 2 for pass during day or full time high beam use.
But have to use a blocking diode in between common connection for low beam of both switches. Such that blocking diode will block current from switch 1 to go into switch 2(as they both connect to low beam, but switch 2 connect to high beam so current from switch 1 will trigger high beam also, which we don't want so current won't flow from switch on connection into switch 2)


OT NOTE:- a while back I was viewing a classic car interior, and it had high beam switch in near dead paddle area for flashing.
 

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Prakritij

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mayurhuria

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A bit correction for option 3

Simple use DPDT switch still with diode

Connect middle two legs to power + and -
Connect top two legs to low beam + and -
Connect bottom two legs to low beam and high beam solenoid + and -

Run a blocking diode between common positive connection of top and bottom leg. Such that low get on one side and high on other side and remains off in between.

If you intend to run after turning on pilot lamp with oem switch then all you need an independent on/off switch for high beam flash. Place it on gear lever or steering wheel. Yes it was foot operated. I dnt remember the car though.
 
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Prakritij

Prakritij

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mayurhuria said:
2). Use a simple headlight switch of any bike like pulsar/splendor type. Reason bike switch can be mounted easily on gear level. And will have off/low/high and also an independent switch for direct flash from off.
At the bottom you can see I have attached image of h/l switch
Click to expand...
mayurhuria said:
If you intend to run after turning on pilot lamp with oem switch then all you need an independent on/off switch for high beam flash. Place it on gear lever or steering wheel. Yes it was foot operated. I dnt remember the car though.
Click to expand...
I intended to use a switch like the one you have attached, which is present in the aliexpress link provided. But was confused with the many wires, connect which to power supply and which to flash.

Basically, wanted something as below:
SWITCH.jpg

The on/off switch to keep the beam in high or low as long as required. And the momentary switch for flashing when the on/off switch is in off position.

Yes, a Bike handle bar switch is the requirement here but the electrically challenged me cannot figure out which wire to connect where.[frustration]

Please help
 
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bhvm

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how about using switch from new activa or something. it comes with on/off as well as pass switch. using a multimeter continuity function, you can easily figure out the wiring
 
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Prakritij

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Yes, it can be done and maybe the switch have to be fitted on the steering for easy access.

Also, the solenoid has 2 wires, one black and one red. Which one goes where?
I really don't know anything about electricals[confused]
 
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bhvm

bhvm

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Prakritij said:
Yes, it can be done and maybe the switch have to be fitted on the steering for easy access.

Also, the solenoid has 2 wires, one black and one red. Which one goes where?
I really don't know anything about electricals[confused]
Click to expand...
Black wire, I assume is ground, should go to unpainted metal Chasis. This is your negative. (You can double check from TDAUTOZ)

Now Red wire should be positive, which will go to switch or relay as required. Don't blame yourself Over electricals, Everyone started small.[:)]
 
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