DIYs Done On My 2017 Hyundai Creta (1.6L CRDi)

[anuraagshenoy]

Power Window switch illumination

• Hyundai India conveniently decided to omit the lighting on the individual power window switches making it difficult for users to locate the switch during night times. Thanks to AliExpress, these switches were readily available at a decent price. Without much thought, I went ahead and got three of them.

Power window switches from AliExpress


New vs OEM switch


Door pad removed


The power window connector removed


Using a small flat screwdriver, pry the tabs (marked using the arrows in yellow) to free the switch from the door pad


The power window switch removed


The 5-pin power window switch connector


Test successful


Rear switch installed


Front switch installed


Close-up of the illumination


Small LED bulb for the illumination - matches the interior lighting

• The point here is, the wiring etc is ready in the car with this feature enabled but Hyundai decided to cheap out on the switches and all it takes is a simple switch change to get this lighting to work. This modification is not going to make any 'real' difference in operation but will address something that should have been there since day 1.

 

[anuraagshenoy]

DIY - Puddle Lamps

• Another cosmetic modification but thanks to the door design, the overall lighting spread wasn't as I wanted.

Puddle lamp - A pair


LED's


Details and dimensions


The hole was drilled in the access cap on the base of the ORVM casing


Puddle lamp mounted on the base cap trim of the ORVM


The screw tightened to hold it in place


The cap refit on the ORVM base


View of the puddle lamp from underneath


Puddle lamp ON showing the throw of the light onto the road below


Close-up of the puddle lamp when the LED is on

• As seen in the image above, the sharp crease on the door near the ORVM area is blocking most of the light which is not helping matters in lighting up the road below.
• There is no other location on the ORVM body where I could mount the puddle lamps for better light output but I compromised.

 

[anuraagshenoy]

LED Swap - Interior lights (Cabin and Boot)

• As per the specifications, the interior lights are 31mm in dimension and 'festoon' type. There are 2 bulbs in the front reading light; 1 bulb in the central cabin light (between the front and rear seats) and 1 bulb in the boot. So I placed an order for 10 bulbs from AliExpress since it was cheaper to get.

31mm festoon LED bulb


OE bulb vs LED (31mm festoon)


1. Cabin Light LED swap

Front Reading light


Instructions to open the covers to gain access to the bulbs


Covers removed - OE bulb in the holder


Replaced with the LED bulb and angled it outwards for better light throw


The difference in lighting - OEM vs LED


OEM light output in the cabin


LED light output in the cabin post replacement


2. Boot LED swap

Boot light with OEM festoon bulb in the holder


Replaced with the 31mm festoon LED


LED ON


Light output with the OEM bulb


Light output with the LED bulb - The picture is not doing justice but yes, this was not sufficient as the area to the left of the boot was still in the dark

 

[anuraagshenoy]

DIY - Boot Illumination modification

• To address the dark area in the boot (especially the left side), I added a piece LED strip to evenly lighten the boot. Used the same strip of LED as in the footwell and glove box illumination.

Wiring and insulation tape was purchased for completing this modification


The boot lamp removed from the mount


Soldering two wires on the metal contact point for connecting the LED strip


Two wires soldered on the boot lamp


LED strip stuck on the underside of the parcel tray for effective lighting when the boot lid is opened


Beading opened to route the wires


Used bullet connectors on the parcel tray for connecting the wires. Will help when there is a need to remove the parcel tray from the car without losing the boot light


Wiring from the cabin connected to the parcel tray


LED in action from inside the car when the boot is opened. Also seen to the left is the small OEM boot light


Light output - Before the modification


Light output - After the modification


Another image of the LED strip lighting up the boot. Also seen are the puddle lamps in action

 

[anuraagshenoy]

LED Swap - Tail lights + Brake lights

• Another LED swap has been carried forward from my previous car.

Used this for the parking light located on the boot lid


Used this for main parking + brake light located on the body of the car


Twin tail lights - In the OE setup, the internal ones (located on the boot lid) light up as parking lights only whereas the outer one is for both parking + brake light


Pry open to remove the cover - The location to pry is highlighted using the white arrow


The cover was removed to access the bolts holding the tail light


The boot lid panel was removed to gain access to the bulbs on the inner side


Tail light removed from the body


Sockets and connectors of the lights


Stock halogen bulb


Replaced with LED


Connector and bulb holder for the inner tail light section


OE tail lights + brake pressed


Lights after the LED swap


Swapped the number plate light with LED (T10)

 

[anuraagshenoy]

DIY - Dual Brake Light MOD

• In the Creta, the outer lamp glows brighter when the brake is pressed since it has a dual filament bulb whereas the inner lights are single filaments that glow only when parking lights are turned ON. I wanted all four lights to glow when the brake is pressed.

Got a spare set of the tail light harness from a scrapped Creta to use the pins for the addition of a new wire to connect the two tail lights


The inner section light removed to connect the wire


Tail lamp removed


Wiring harness pins on the couplers


De-pining was done to solder a wire to connect the two tail lamps


Parking lights ON


Brake lights ON - All four lamps turn ON when the brake is pressed

 

[anuraagshenoy]

LED Swap - Reverse Light

• Bulb Type: T16

OE bulb vs LED


Socket for the reverse bulbs (connector with two blue wires)


LED bulb fixed


OE yellow - Light output


LED bulb - Light output

• After 1 year the LED bulbs started to fail slowly and by then AliExpress was not shipping to India anymore so decided to try something locally so I can procure the replacement easily (if required).

New LED bulbs


Old LED bulbs vs New ones (Better quality and fit)


LED output during the day time post swap

 

[anuraagshenoy]

DIY LED Swap - HMSL

• Another simple LED swap from the OEM yellow bulbs
• Bulb type - T10

HMSL (High Mount Stop Lamp) - Sits flush with the boot lid. Access to the bulbs is from inside the body of the HMSL


HMSL cover


Using a pry tool or flat screwdriver, pry open at the location pointed in the image below to remove the cover


The cover removed


Three screws exposed that hold the HMSL to the body of the boot lid


Remove the washer fluid pipe and remove the HMSL from the body to gain access to the individual bulbs


OEM T10 vs LED bulb


Difference in lighting - OE vs LED


All 4 bulbs replaced with LED

 

[anuraagshenoy]

LED Swap - Indicators

• Since it was a solo DIY, I couldn't click detailed images of this DIY. The flasher circuit in the Creta has the relay embedded in the BCM so replacing it was not possible. The only way I could add an LED bulb with the issue of 'hyper-flashing' was by adding a resistor in between. I procured 4 resistors with scotch lock connectors for this modification.
  
  
• These bulbs were carried forward from my old car (Swift ZDi).

Resistors used with the scotch lock connectors


OEM bulb vs LED bulb

• Since the resistors get hot when the LEDs work, they had to be mounted on a metal surface strictly to avoid any issues. I chose safe locations that wouldn't be an issue when the resistors get hot.
• Will add the video link here after I upload it on YouTube.

 

[anuraagshenoy]

Rear Reflectors - LED Swap

What I paid


Pair of reflectors


Wiring to be connected to the tail lamps


Tail light removed from the body


Removing the OE reflectors from the bumper


OE Reflectors


Tail light connector and socket


Wiring out for the connector


New wires to be soldered to the pins for reflectors to work properly


De-pinning was done to solder the new set of wires


Routing the wiring


Reflectors in action - When parking lights are ON


Reflectors in action - When parking + brake lights are ON

 

[anuraagshenoy]

Addition of aftermarket TPMS - SensAiry (from TymTix, Bangalore)

• TPMS was another important addition that was planned since I got the car. I came across this company based in Bangalore and was fully 'Made in India'. Customer support (Mr Ajay) is top-notch and available always.
• I was particular about the TPMS being an internal type sensor along with a 5 sensors option as the spare wheel is generally neglected. The locally available TPMS are 4 wheel sensors and generic make.
• The TPMS was installed on my car on the 19th of May 2018.
• It has been almost 1 lakh km since the installation.

What I paid - Way back in 2018.


The packaging box


The specifications


Sensors and Valve stems


One sensor and valve stem assembled


Sensors paired and labelled accordingly


Temperature and pressure Units settings page


Low or High-pressure alerts on the App


Tyre removed from the alloys for the sensor installation


OE air valve stem cut off


New stem installed


The tool used to pull and fit the stem to the seat correctly


The cloth used over the alloy to protect the surface when using the above tool


Full sensor + valve stem installed


Balancing done after the installation


All sensors post-filling air and driving around for 50 km


SensAiry & Android Auto


The main screen displays pressure and temperature data on the screen


The second screen for the fifth sensor (Spare wheel)


Screen at night

• The above screenshots that I have uploaded are of the initial stage. Currently, the application has been updated a lot with a lot more finesse.
• As of now 3 out of 5 sensors have stopped reading out data. After contacting the support team, they told me that the batteries (coin cell) must have died since it has crossed 5 years and the average life of these batteries are 5 years.
• I have been recommended to replace the sensors on the whole as the batteries can't be swapped out. I'll be making the purchase soon and updating here.

 

[anuraagshenoy]

DIY - HID Retrofit in the Headlights

In my earlier car (Maruti Swift ZDi), I had retrofit XP Micro HID projectors in the fog lamps and that made a sea of changes in the lighting output of the car. When it was time to change the car, I decided to perform this modification after 6-7 months of usage.

• The odometer at the time of installation was ~45,6xx km and was done in November 2018 (1 year after purchase). The current odometer is 1,24,800 km and so far headlight bulb has failed twice. Once it was replaced under warranty and the second time I had to purchase a local brand - Genome D2S bulb.

The bracket set ordered from AliExpress (ready-made for Creta/ix25) for HID retrofit


Red oxide primer for the bracket


Wire brush and paintbrush to coat the bracket


Paint can for painting the bracket in black


Cleaned, sanded and applied red oxide on the bracket (2 coats)


After drying applied paint on the surface (2 coats)


Test fitting the bracket in the headlight enclosure


Test fitting the projector unit in the bracket


Highlighted areas were required to be filed for the projector to be seated correctly. Since we didn't have access to dremel, we had to use the file

• Morimoto D2S 4.0 Stage III kit

The whole kit


Morimoto Ballast - XB55 (50W)


Morimoto HID bulb - XB35 (35W 5500K)


Morimoto Wiring Harness - HD Relay (9005 type)


Morimoto D2S 4.0 Projector - RHD version


The damaged headlight was procured for all the measurements and test fitting purpose

• OEM Projector Images

OEM Projector unit


Shield & Motor


Projector casing and lens (fresnel type)


OEM Cut-off shield

• Installation Images

The bumper was removed for the easy removal of the headlight and routing of the wiring


Headlights removed and taken in for installation


Homemade jugaad to heat treat the headlight for separating the clear lens from the rest of the headlight body


Headlight is placed inside the box for the heating process


The hot air gun is placed on one end of the box to heat the inside (make sure heat is not blowing directly onto the headlight else it would deform)


On the other end of the box, placed the digital thermometer to keep track of the approximate temperatures inside


After sufficient heating inside the box, manual heat was applied at localized areas and prying using the screwdriver to separate the clear lens from the body


Clear lens separated


Retrorubber - sealant added in the channel to re-seal the headlight

• Fitment images

Test fit to ensure everything works as required


Ballast secured on the frame


HD Relay secured to the radiator frame on the inside


Cut off line without any adjustment


Two screws inside the headlight casing for adjustment (Left and right and/or Up and Down)

• Lighting output images

Cut-off lines on the OEM halogen projector headlights


Cut-off lines after Morimoto retrofit projector


OEM Halogen projectors - Low beam


OEM Halogen projectors - High beam


After Morimoto retrofit - Low beam


After the Morimoto retrofit - High beam

• Genome D2S HID Bulb

Purchased these locally from a seller in Hyderabad since one of the Morimoto ones failed.

The packing




D2S Bulb - Pair

 

[350Z]

Note: Thread now live from T.I.P Zone. Excellent write-up, thanks for sharing with us.

Drive Safe,
350Z

 

[fayizct]

Great DIYs bro. keep it up.

 

[Joli]

Hey Anurag,

Was wondering if you changed the ATF and timing chain? If yes, the associated cost as well as time consumed. Will an FNG do justice or HASS?

PS: Created this ID just to ask you this question :)