Bajaj Pulsar 150 Classic Restoration & Modification
- Thread Starter Mr.Boss
- Start date
Full resto?? Painting, engine work, electricals, fork + suspension, etc..?All the best for your resto
Mr. Boss & Rakesh, Interested in BCM & UG4 features like illuminated switches?
The new discover / Pulsar 135 comes with illuminated switched without BCM. Might work out cheaper, if you are interested.
Mr. Boss & Rakesh, Interested in BCM & UG4 features like illuminated switches?
The new discover / Pulsar 135 comes with illuminated switched without BCM. Might work out cheaper, if you are interested.
No issues with the wiring, Planing to paint completely in a different shade (new Dzire blue), Already fitted dual horns as DIY, Tyres need replacement and getting a pair of clip on handle bars.
I am interested in BCM with UG4 switches as I am planing to get the new handle bar, and i would keep my bike in old shape as I like to have normal meter console and non led tail lamp.
I am interested in BCM with UG4 switches as I am planing to get the new handle bar, and i would keep my bike in old shape as I like to have normal meter console and non led tail lamp.
Is desire blue same as Plasma blue shade of Pulsar 150? For clip on handle bar you will also have to get the allot base plate with a hole in the middle for ignition key entry. And this plate is different for P150 & P180/220, so buy the stuff relevant to P150 only.
The BCM & switch unit is independent of the digital speedo, so you don't have to worry about compatibility & retaining the classic look. But BCM may not support the filament bulb in the tail light. So you might have to swap it with a LED tail light bulb for the same holder.
The BCM & switch unit is independent of the digital speedo, so you don't have to worry about compatibility & retaining the classic look. But BCM may not support the filament bulb in the tail light. So you might have to swap it with a LED tail light bulb for the same holder.
No, that color is not in any bikes :) Engine is in great condition, suspension overhauled completely. for only back-lighted switches BCM is needed? I am not interested in digital meter though. Yes I would by direct fit handle bar and parts from the pulsar 150 Only.
Thread Starter
#96
Here is the final outcome.
More / detailed snaps will be posted by this weekend.
All the best Rakesh. Do post some snaps of your bike (either here or in a separate thread)
Earlier I had the plan of upgrading to backlight switches, but dropped without any reasons. Let me keep this in wishlist (along with Self start)
OE clip-ons? I remember the fork tubes were longer for the OE clip-on type vehicle (not sure though. Confirm before you proceed)
More / detailed snaps will be posted by this weekend.
All the best Rakesh. Do post some snaps of your bike (either here or in a separate thread)
Earlier I had the plan of upgrading to backlight switches, but dropped without any reasons. Let me keep this in wishlist (along with Self start)
OE clip-ons? I remember the fork tubes were longer for the OE clip-on type vehicle (not sure though. Confirm before you proceed)
I confirmed it from an another new Pulsar 150. The width are same. I had thread already I will post the pics there
Please have a look on my thread
Please have a look on my thread
looks fab Mr.Boss. the outcome higlights the hard work that has been put into this restoration. keep up the good work.
Thread Starter
#99
Hello Mr.Boss, I read throughout the thread, I am a hardcore fan of restoring old vehicles, this is a great job man, I would like to see the final picture of the finished bike....
![[;)]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Wink.gif "Wink [;)]")
This is One of the amazing restoration i've seen.
good work bro
I do have a Pulsar 150 classic 2003 model same as that of the one you were working on. I did some painting works too. Original was not fitted with a self start, I made a modification of adding a self start motor and a twin spark instead of single one. will post the picture soon
good work bro
I do have a Pulsar 150 classic 2003 model same as that of the one you were working on. I did some painting works too. Original was not fitted with a self start, I made a modification of adding a self start motor and a twin spark instead of single one. will post the picture soon
Bajaj Pulsar 150 Classic - Full DC Conversion
Mr.Boss. Aplogolies for hijacking your thread. But being a pulsar topic and you also wanted to upgrade. Hence took the privilege to share my experience here itself. The bike being experimented here is a UG2 Pulsar 150 Dtsi. It has analog meters, spoke wheels, disc brake in the front, no LED tail lamp and no BCM. Re-soldering the stator wire to accommodate a 4 wire rectifier in place of the old 4 wire RR unit was relatively simple. In the self start model it was not required to remove the flywheel to detach the stator plate assembly.
How to re-solder the wires?
In the stock setup the Blue-white is the input to the rectifier side. And the Yellow - red wire is the input for regulator side. Both these wires originate from the same coil of wire. One end of this coil is body grounded. The other end is the Blue-White wire. The Yellow - Red wire is tapped somewhere in between in the same coil.
1. De-solder the body ground from 1 end of the coil set.
2. De-solder the Yellow-Red wire
3. Connect the de-soldered end of coil in step 1 to the Yellow-Red wire.
Use heat shrink tubes or sleeves and a few drops of glue to safely route the wire between the coils. This is all needed to pack the stator back to the vehicle.
Use a Piaggio Ape 4 wire rectifier unit.
How to connect with the Rectifier unit?
1. Remove the old RR unit and its capacitor
2. Connect the Blue-white and the Yellow - red wires to the grey wire in Ape rectifier
3. Connect white wire to the yellow wire in Ape rectifier
4. The ground wire Ape rectifier can either be body grounded or connected to the battery negative directly
How to supply 12V DC (in place of 12V AC) to the headlight wires through the key switch?
There are 2 ways to do it.
1. Out of the 4 wires in the connector for old RR unit the yellow wires carried 12V AC to the switch. The nearest source for 12V DC from the ignition switch is the rear brake light switch or the indicator flasher.
2. The same yellow wire could be identified at the switch terminals near the handle bar also. 12V DC can be tapped directly from the ignition switch too. The regulator unit of Pulsar 135LS can also be used. The wires are Blue-white in place of Grey in a Ape rectifier.
Attached pictures of the stator plate
after soldering.
Mr.Boss. Aplogolies for hijacking your thread. But being a pulsar topic and you also wanted to upgrade. Hence took the privilege to share my experience here itself. The bike being experimented here is a UG2 Pulsar 150 Dtsi. It has analog meters, spoke wheels, disc brake in the front, no LED tail lamp and no BCM. Re-soldering the stator wire to accommodate a 4 wire rectifier in place of the old 4 wire RR unit was relatively simple. In the self start model it was not required to remove the flywheel to detach the stator plate assembly.
How to re-solder the wires?
In the stock setup the Blue-white is the input to the rectifier side. And the Yellow - red wire is the input for regulator side. Both these wires originate from the same coil of wire. One end of this coil is body grounded. The other end is the Blue-White wire. The Yellow - Red wire is tapped somewhere in between in the same coil.
1. De-solder the body ground from 1 end of the coil set.
2. De-solder the Yellow-Red wire
3. Connect the de-soldered end of coil in step 1 to the Yellow-Red wire.
Use heat shrink tubes or sleeves and a few drops of glue to safely route the wire between the coils. This is all needed to pack the stator back to the vehicle.
Use a Piaggio Ape 4 wire rectifier unit.
How to connect with the Rectifier unit?
1. Remove the old RR unit and its capacitor
2. Connect the Blue-white and the Yellow - red wires to the grey wire in Ape rectifier
3. Connect white wire to the yellow wire in Ape rectifier
4. The ground wire Ape rectifier can either be body grounded or connected to the battery negative directly
How to supply 12V DC (in place of 12V AC) to the headlight wires through the key switch?
There are 2 ways to do it.
1. Out of the 4 wires in the connector for old RR unit the yellow wires carried 12V AC to the switch. The nearest source for 12V DC from the ignition switch is the rear brake light switch or the indicator flasher.
2. The same yellow wire could be identified at the switch terminals near the handle bar also. 12V DC can be tapped directly from the ignition switch too. The regulator unit of Pulsar 135LS can also be used. The wires are Blue-white in place of Grey in a Ape rectifier.
Attached pictures of the stator plate
after soldering.
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Hi ShutterX,
There are many bikers who had crazy bikes in the past and sold that beauties. Now they too feel the same. One of my relative who had an Escorts RX100 and RD350 which was brought by his father.
He was not interested and bored on riding this and Sold in 2003.
There are many bikers who had crazy bikes in the past and sold that beauties. Now they too feel the same. One of my relative who had an Escorts RX100 and RD350 which was brought by his father.
He was not interested and bored on riding this and Sold in 2003.