Bajaj Pulsar 150 Classic Restoration & Modification


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Figured out how the new brake light switch works with some basic assumptions and little knowledge of how the magnetic type switch works. But there came another road block [frustration] New switch is capable of operating the LEDs, not the conventional bulbs (anything over a 5 Watts rating) Should give a try by next weekend for some solution.[glasses]
 
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Sir, try to join the SingaporeBikes community and ask the question in the thread in the link I gave in my earlier post.
 
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Figured out how the new brake light switch works with some basic assumptions and little knowledge of how the magnetic type switch works. But there came another road block [frustration] New switch is capable of operating the LEDs, not the conventional bulbs (anything over a 5 Watts rating) Should give a try by next weekend for some solution.[glasses]
The very simplest option would be to go for the 2 wire brake switch which fits in the same position.
Else try this.
In place of a LED tail lamp set connect a 12V 200 Ohm relay from any electronic store. The current through the magnetic switch will be 12/200 = 60milli Ampere only, which the switch can handle. Don't forget to use a freewheeling diode across the relay, else the switch will get destroyed.
The other option is to buy this board and hide it inside a car Indicator flasher box.
ONE SINGLE CHANNEL 1 CH 12V RELAY BOARD MODULE for: Amazon.in: Electronics
But this relay works on 5 Volts. So you will have to change the biasing resistors and the series resistor for the base to some higher value. We can discuss the same in this thread too, if you want to go with this option.

Attached a picture from a P220 document. Guess it is too late now.
Could you please share your learning on how the brake switch works?
 

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Thread Starter #79
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Thanks Ilango for the detailed explanation. But most of the electronics part I couldn't understand (I'm from Mechanical background with little exposure to electricals)
The very simplest option would be to go for the 2 wire brake switch which fits in the same position.
This seems to be better idea.
Could you please share your learning on how the brake switch works?
Couldn't find time to make explanatory circuit. Please give me some time, I will share at the earliest.
 
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At last we had some spare time to proceed further.

Tank, Shields & seat removed
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Oil leak in Head cover
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Head & Cylinder removed
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Complete block removed from the bike
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Initial observation:
- Scoring mark in cylinder (vehicle front direction)
- Excess play in connecting Rod (Approx 2mm at piston end)
- Clutch needs replacement
- Inner sprocket oil seal damaged
 
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Minor update on the cracked HL reflector. Changed them last night
Amby reflector --> TATA Ace reflector (the later one has more curvature on the surface)

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Good work. Now this deserves a 55/60W bulb. And since the engine is down, it is a good time to do a small upgrade in your charging system to almost double its capacity. You may probably end up with a full DC system too.
In the stator plate, desolder the ground connection of lighting coil and tap a wire outside from the free end. Use a UG4 rectifier and now you have loads of current to power a 55/60W headlamp. A simple 2 mins job, and lot of advantage. Post a picture of your stator, I can guide you which wire needs this resoldering.
 
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Vijai Super DC Setup

Thanks a lot for the help Ilango, let me post the snap by this evening.
Did the same in my Vijai Super and installed a battery too. I have a full DC setup and no more revving the engine for louder horn or brighter light.
 

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Thread Starter #89
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Lazy painter did his job well. Got those parts back and assembled the engine with New bearings, clutch plate, clutch springs, kicker spring, etc. Engine rebored to 1OS piston (from Goetze), new valves and valve guide.

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Saturday late night we managed to fire the engine [:)]

You may probably end up with a full DC system too.
HL upgrade is postponed as of now. I will start pricking you in future for the same. Please support.
 
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