Audio System Upgrade on Hyundai Verna Fluidic
- Thread Starter verna
- Start date
Guys, Does verna stock hu have Av out? ![[confused]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Confused.gif "Confused [confused]")
Speakers and Configuration for New 2014 Fluidic Verna (Confusion)
Guys I plan on changing the oem speakers fronts and rear speakers. I will not be adding parcel tray speakers nor any subwoofer. I want to leave the option open for a subwoofer in the future. Also I prefer clarity and sharpness over bass.
Questions
1) I am a little confused can the new Verna accept 6-1/2″ or only 5-1/4'' coax /comp speakers ? Some places say they cannot accept 6-1/2'' speakers so I will have to look for only 5-1/4". I have read a few discussions on this thread discussing using the 6-1/2" but will the new fludic accept the same as I plan on buying them online and I do not want to bother with returns etc.
2) I prefer to go with both component speakers as sometimes I drive and sometimes I am being driven. So where will the tweeters go in the rear?
3) Also I am thinking of buying 3way speakers are there any this will fit in my car? Or should I stick to 6-1/2" 2 way speakers? I don't mind spending upto 8k on a pair.
I want the balance in the front and back to be the same so it envelopes the entire car (that's why I plan on putting both component speakers is that a good idea?)
4) I was thinking of Infinity Kappa speakers but I don't see them mentioned very often on this forum. I see more about polk, focal, hertz. I just feel since Infinity is being used by top end car manufactures like BMW etc they have done their homework well......just my two cents....
5) Also what amp should I get. For this configuration how many watts / RMS. I see 400watts , 275watts, 850 watts , 1000watts. Budget rs 14000.
5) Any specific dealers / installers you can recommend in Mumbai?
Guys I plan on changing the oem speakers fronts and rear speakers. I will not be adding parcel tray speakers nor any subwoofer. I want to leave the option open for a subwoofer in the future. Also I prefer clarity and sharpness over bass.
Questions
1) I am a little confused can the new Verna accept 6-1/2″ or only 5-1/4'' coax /comp speakers ? Some places say they cannot accept 6-1/2'' speakers so I will have to look for only 5-1/4". I have read a few discussions on this thread discussing using the 6-1/2" but will the new fludic accept the same as I plan on buying them online and I do not want to bother with returns etc.
2) I prefer to go with both component speakers as sometimes I drive and sometimes I am being driven. So where will the tweeters go in the rear?
3) Also I am thinking of buying 3way speakers are there any this will fit in my car? Or should I stick to 6-1/2" 2 way speakers? I don't mind spending upto 8k on a pair.
I want the balance in the front and back to be the same so it envelopes the entire car (that's why I plan on putting both component speakers is that a good idea?)
4) I was thinking of Infinity Kappa speakers but I don't see them mentioned very often on this forum. I see more about polk, focal, hertz. I just feel since Infinity is being used by top end car manufactures like BMW etc they have done their homework well......just my two cents....
5) Also what amp should I get. For this configuration how many watts / RMS. I see 400watts , 275watts, 850 watts , 1000watts. Budget rs 14000.
5) Any specific dealers / installers you can recommend in Mumbai?
For installers in mumbai, I would recommened Soundfx. Its in andheri east. more info at soundfx.in . Not sure if the owner Vicky would do the installation of your products. He has a decent inventory. You can walk in there and he can happily answer all your questions/doubts. I have installed my ICE and some LED stuffs couple years back and have had a very good experience. Prices are reasonable too.
If any gurus still watching this thread I request your advice on the below subwoofer :
JBL Car Subwoofer GT5-2402BR
I'm getting a offer from 1 of my friends for a new piece but would like some suggestions if spending 17.5k on this woofer is really worth it ?? Thanks in advance![[:)]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Smile.gif "Smile [:)]")
JBL Car Subwoofer GT5-2402BR
I'm getting a offer from 1 of my friends for a new piece but would like some suggestions if spending 17.5k on this woofer is really worth it ?? Thanks in advance
If any gurus still watching this thread I request your advice on the below subwoofer :
JBL Car Subwoofer GT5-2402BR
I'm getting a offer from 1 of my friends for a new piece but would like some suggestions if spending 17.5k on this woofer is really worth it ?? Thanks in advance
JBL Car Subwoofer GT5-2402BR
I'm getting a offer from 1 of my friends for a new piece but would like some suggestions if spending 17.5k on this woofer is really worth it ?? Thanks in advance
Type of amp with specification
Front Speakers specifications
Rear speakers specifications
Also the type of connection:- serial or parellel
Impedence :- 2 or 4 ohm of amp output.
Also specify your car:- hatchback, sedan, suv, etc.
Also for optimum output of a music system good wiring along with damping is also required.
Thanks rajanysvv for taking time out & responding .
I drive a Verna 1.6. I have a old mono amp with 250 RMS which I'm planning to move to my old Santro.
Im planning to buy a new mono amp for the sub & based on your suggestions I have short-listed these amplifiers :
Model Name/RMS/Peak Power
BLAUPUNKT - GTA 1500D/500W RMS output at 2 Ohms/1000W
JBL - GTO 501EZ/500W RMS x 1 channel at 2 ohms, 14.4V DC, <1.0% THD/770W
JVC - KS AX5101D/300Wx1 at 4 Ohms, 500Wx1 at 2 Ohms/1000W
Sony XM-GS100/600W × 1 (at 2 ohms), 330W × 1 (at 4 ohms)/1100W
(Sony seems to be with the best RMS :))
What according to you would be the best fit for the sub ?
Also would i need to buy a Hi-lo converter as I'm not sure if Verna comes with a pre-out or not on the factory fitted Display unit ? keeping in mind that Im planning to buy 4 channel amp for the speakers in the future.
There are amplifier wiring kits from brands such as focal, kicker etc available in the market is there a real need to buy such kits & if it has any significant impact ?
Again thank you.
I drive a Verna 1.6. I have a old mono amp with 250 RMS which I'm planning to move to my old Santro.
Im planning to buy a new mono amp for the sub & based on your suggestions I have short-listed these amplifiers :
Model Name/RMS/Peak Power
BLAUPUNKT - GTA 1500D/500W RMS output at 2 Ohms/1000W
JBL - GTO 501EZ/500W RMS x 1 channel at 2 ohms, 14.4V DC, <1.0% THD/770W
JVC - KS AX5101D/300Wx1 at 4 Ohms, 500Wx1 at 2 Ohms/1000W
Sony XM-GS100/600W × 1 (at 2 ohms), 330W × 1 (at 4 ohms)/1100W
(Sony seems to be with the best RMS :))
What according to you would be the best fit for the sub ?
Also would i need to buy a Hi-lo converter as I'm not sure if Verna comes with a pre-out or not on the factory fitted Display unit ? keeping in mind that Im planning to buy 4 channel amp for the speakers in the future.
There are amplifier wiring kits from brands such as focal, kicker etc available in the market is there a real need to buy such kits & if it has any significant impact ?
Again thank you.
Hi samsv,
Of the amplifier brands and specifications you have mentioned, it is not worth considering the peak power rather you should only look at the RMS. i.e. peak power is like a person can run 100 mtrs in say 10 seconds and the same person can in normal course can walk 100 mtrs in 80 seconds on a daily basis. Similarly peak power is rarely seen depending on the output only for certain frequencies while the regular output is to be seen only at rms. Generally peak power specified by a reputed brand is 2 times of rms while cheap brands gimmick peak power at 3-4 times of rms. Nowadays even good brands overstate peak power to withstand competition from cheap brands. So the final specifications to be considered at an impedence of 4 ohms for your mentioned brands are as follows:-
Blaupunkt GTA-1500D 250watts RMS
JBL GTO-501EZ 350watts RMS
JVC KS-AX5101D 300watts RMS
SONY XM-GS100 330watts RMS
Now which is better? JBL has the highest RMS output followed by Sony, Jvc and Blaupunkt being the least. Here my choice would be Blaupunkt, though the rms is least it's a better brand, the difference in a 50-80watts rms less power output would be hardly noticeable compared with other brands.
Also while selecting an amp you need to consider 3 other factors:-
1) Front & Rear Speakers and Subwoofer that you will match for your ICE setup:- The total power output of your speakers should match the subwoofer output (consider output only at RMS @4ohm impedence). So if you are planning to install front component speakers with 50 watts rms per channel and rear co-axial speakers with a 70 watts rms per channel your total is 240 watts, so a subwoofer of 240-360 watts rms is an ideal match. A mono amp in the range of 200-300 watts rms output.
2) Current input for your amps:- an amp requires an input of power. In your case since you are planning to install a mono amp to power the sub, you would require another 2/4 channel amplifier to power the 4 speakers. Take notice that the the total input power requirement of your amplifiers plus head unit/receiver does not exceed the alternator and battery output.
Because of the conditions generally an ICE upgrade setups is restricted to 2 types in India:-
1) 4 channel amp:- 2 channels of amp are given as output to the front component speakers and other 2 channels are given as out to subwoofer. Rear co-axial speakers are powered directly from the head unit which has a 30watts rms. Rear speakers are mostly co-axial used for the fill purpose. Some connect all 4 speakers to the front 2 channels of amp and other 2 channels are supplied to power the subwoofer, incase the rear speakers need an output of 30watts rms. Some people opt for 5/6 channel amplifiers where each cahnnel is supplied to the 4 speakers and 1 subwoofer. This option saves space, less on cost of wiring kits, etc.
2) Multi amp setup:- Speakers are powered by a 4 channel amp and another mono d class amp is used to power the subwoofer. Output is better, cost is more, more wiring, etc and a drain on the battery, in some cases people use/fit a 2nd battery to power the extra outputs.
So practically a 250 watts rms output @ 4 ohm, class D, mono amp with a 200-375 watts rms output, single voice coil, @4 ohm. (double voice coil subs mostly come with a 2 ohm impedence)
Regarding a high low converter, it is required in case your head unit has no option of pre outs. You can first go to a car accessory shop and ask him to check the pre-outs of the head unit first before you decide on the ICE upgrade.
Regarding wiring kits, yes a good reliable wiring kit is required as it effects the sound quality. No point in going for good brands of amp, speakers and subs and a cheap wiring kit. Also a damping kit increases your sound output by 15-20%.
Of the amplifier brands and specifications you have mentioned, it is not worth considering the peak power rather you should only look at the RMS. i.e. peak power is like a person can run 100 mtrs in say 10 seconds and the same person can in normal course can walk 100 mtrs in 80 seconds on a daily basis. Similarly peak power is rarely seen depending on the output only for certain frequencies while the regular output is to be seen only at rms. Generally peak power specified by a reputed brand is 2 times of rms while cheap brands gimmick peak power at 3-4 times of rms. Nowadays even good brands overstate peak power to withstand competition from cheap brands. So the final specifications to be considered at an impedence of 4 ohms for your mentioned brands are as follows:-
Blaupunkt GTA-1500D 250watts RMS
JBL GTO-501EZ 350watts RMS
JVC KS-AX5101D 300watts RMS
SONY XM-GS100 330watts RMS
Now which is better? JBL has the highest RMS output followed by Sony, Jvc and Blaupunkt being the least. Here my choice would be Blaupunkt, though the rms is least it's a better brand, the difference in a 50-80watts rms less power output would be hardly noticeable compared with other brands.
Also while selecting an amp you need to consider 3 other factors:-
1) Front & Rear Speakers and Subwoofer that you will match for your ICE setup:- The total power output of your speakers should match the subwoofer output (consider output only at RMS @4ohm impedence). So if you are planning to install front component speakers with 50 watts rms per channel and rear co-axial speakers with a 70 watts rms per channel your total is 240 watts, so a subwoofer of 240-360 watts rms is an ideal match. A mono amp in the range of 200-300 watts rms output.
2) Current input for your amps:- an amp requires an input of power. In your case since you are planning to install a mono amp to power the sub, you would require another 2/4 channel amplifier to power the 4 speakers. Take notice that the the total input power requirement of your amplifiers plus head unit/receiver does not exceed the alternator and battery output.
Because of the conditions generally an ICE upgrade setups is restricted to 2 types in India:-
1) 4 channel amp:- 2 channels of amp are given as output to the front component speakers and other 2 channels are given as out to subwoofer. Rear co-axial speakers are powered directly from the head unit which has a 30watts rms. Rear speakers are mostly co-axial used for the fill purpose. Some connect all 4 speakers to the front 2 channels of amp and other 2 channels are supplied to power the subwoofer, incase the rear speakers need an output of 30watts rms. Some people opt for 5/6 channel amplifiers where each cahnnel is supplied to the 4 speakers and 1 subwoofer. This option saves space, less on cost of wiring kits, etc.
2) Multi amp setup:- Speakers are powered by a 4 channel amp and another mono d class amp is used to power the subwoofer. Output is better, cost is more, more wiring, etc and a drain on the battery, in some cases people use/fit a 2nd battery to power the extra outputs.
So practically a 250 watts rms output @ 4 ohm, class D, mono amp with a 200-375 watts rms output, single voice coil, @4 ohm. (double voice coil subs mostly come with a 2 ohm impedence)
Regarding a high low converter, it is required in case your head unit has no option of pre outs. You can first go to a car accessory shop and ask him to check the pre-outs of the head unit first before you decide on the ICE upgrade.
Regarding wiring kits, yes a good reliable wiring kit is required as it effects the sound quality. No point in going for good brands of amp, speakers and subs and a cheap wiring kit. Also a damping kit increases your sound output by 15-20%.
Very informative reply as always rajanysvv![[clap]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Clap.gif "Clap [clap]")
, I am follwing your posts in other ICE threads too.
IMO this is a wrong practice some people follows. Here they are repeating the sound originally recorded for front channels in the rear too.
The mid, high frequencies in RL, RR which won't be usually reproduced well by a subwoofer will be totally missed out here.
Just like there were "dual speaker" TVs sold in disguise as "stereo sound" in old days.
, I am follwing your posts in other ICE threads too.IMO this is a wrong practice some people follows. Here they are repeating the sound originally recorded for front channels in the rear too.
The mid, high frequencies in RL, RR which won't be usually reproduced well by a subwoofer will be totally missed out here.
Just like there were "dual speaker" TVs sold in disguise as "stereo sound" in old days.
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Very informative reply as always rajanysvv, I am follwing your posts in other ICE threads too.
IMO this is a wrong practice some people follows. Here they are repeating the sound originally recorded for front channels in the rear too.
The mid, high frequencies in RL, RR which won't be usually reproduced well by a subwoofer will be totally missed out here.
Just like there were "dual speaker" TVs sold in disguise as "stereo sound" in old days.
, I am follwing your posts in other ICE threads too.IMO this is a wrong practice some people follows. Here they are repeating the sound originally recorded for front channels in the rear too.
The mid, high frequencies in RL, RR which won't be usually reproduced well by a subwoofer will be totally missed out here.
Just like there were "dual speaker" TVs sold in disguise as "stereo sound" in old days.
You are right on the point of connecting 4 speakers to the front 2 channels of the amp. I was only trying to explain the various types of setups used commonly. for samsv the point in discussion is the mono amp for sub and addition of a 4 channel amp later for the speakers.
Guys,
I am planning to put a mono amp for my boston sub. I have bought Sony xm gs100 . The manual mentions that, the wiring should be 4 GA and fuse of 60 A , but most of the 4GA wiring kits are providing fuse with 100+ amps. Will putting a 100+A fuse as against the 60A mentioned in manual would cause any problem?
Please suggest me a good wiring kit of 4 GA. Few brands which I know of is Rockforg fosgate, Knukonceptz, focal, stinger, scocsche.
I am planning to put a mono amp for my boston sub. I have bought Sony xm gs100 . The manual mentions that, the wiring should be 4 GA and fuse of 60 A , but most of the 4GA wiring kits are providing fuse with 100+ amps. Will putting a 100+A fuse as against the 60A mentioned in manual would cause any problem?
Please suggest me a good wiring kit of 4 GA. Few brands which I know of is Rockforg fosgate, Knukonceptz, focal, stinger, scocsche.
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I have finally decided to upgrade the speaker setup of my verna.
I have decided 2 amps. Check the screenshots. Please tell me which will be the best.
I have 2 stock speakers at the front , 2 mac audio components at the rear. Stock HU. I have a JBL bass tube as well. Will add a pic tomorrow.
I have also included jbl's amp pics. I know that sony doesn't require hi low convertor so i will save around 2k. Will i need hi low convertor for this jbl as well ?
I don't want to look at other options, please tell me between these 2.
Also. I inquired the rates for jbl , he quoted 6500 rupees which seemed high but good news is he had original scosche wiring which i think is pretty good. Please do tell me if scosche is good or not, he quoted 2500 rupees which is the mrp so i think he will decrease the price a little bit.
Another shop has cervin vega which costs 3500 rs. I didn't inquire this from the shop but from a friend. Will confirm from the shop and update.
Also, verna settings has very low output for the rear speakers, it's negligible compared to the fronts.
So i was thinking i will add amplifier connection to the rear components. For some songs even the stock front speakers seems enough for me so i guess having a little bit loud speakers at the rear plus a subwoofer will be sufficient.
I have decided 2 amps. Check the screenshots. Please tell me which will be the best.
I have 2 stock speakers at the front , 2 mac audio components at the rear. Stock HU. I have a JBL bass tube as well. Will add a pic tomorrow.
I have also included jbl's amp pics. I know that sony doesn't require hi low convertor so i will save around 2k. Will i need hi low convertor for this jbl as well ?
I don't want to look at other options, please tell me between these 2.
Also. I inquired the rates for jbl , he quoted 6500 rupees which seemed high but good news is he had original scosche wiring which i think is pretty good. Please do tell me if scosche is good or not, he quoted 2500 rupees which is the mrp so i think he will decrease the price a little bit.
Another shop has cervin vega which costs 3500 rs. I didn't inquire this from the shop but from a friend. Will confirm from the shop and update.
Also, verna settings has very low output for the rear speakers, it's negligible compared to the fronts.
So i was thinking i will add amplifier connection to the rear components. For some songs even the stock front speakers seems enough for me so i guess having a little bit loud speakers at the rear plus a subwoofer will be sufficient.
Attachments
JBL GXA 644SI do have speaker level inputs. So no need of HI-LO converters. Also its a better amp any day compared to the Sony Amplifier though Sony have a slightly better output power rating. You may consider shifting the rear components to front door and hook it to the amplifier and buy >3-way 6x9 speakers (keep aside stock speakers) for rear parcel tray for a better audio setup. Optionally you may shift and retain the full range stock speakers in the rear doors as you are planning to add a subwoofer. Scosche wiring kit is a great choice and mostly available as genuine (Audison, JBL make wiring kits in market are mostly counterfeit products), but you may bargain for a better price.
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