FIDDLING WITH FUSE - Do's and Dont's?
TO ERROR IS HUMAN.
Sometimes we learn from our mistakes and also from other’s. That's the reason I share such an experience here.
Last weekend, I broke my head (of course the Mind) never before than ever.
I did a mistake and caused a short circuit that resulted in failure of CONSTANT VOLTAGE electrical 12V line of my ALBUS and, no Head lights, Dome light, Head Unit Radio/ Reverse Cam display, Parking lights/warning beep, Door Remote control, License plate lights ... all in parked mode.
But once the car started, lights are working except Head Unit / Reverse Cam display, Dome Light.
Before back home after my superannuation, I have provided a clock line on the dash that has Battery Positive, Negative, ACC line and a dimmer line connected to parking lights. The clock was similar to White LED type that came in TATA INDICA.
The clock will on when car starts, goes to non-display node when car switched off but still connected to direct battery for keeping time memory and, also connected to head / parking light to get it dimmed.
Later I removed the clock but carefully sealed the connection & securely kept inside the - A pillar, in case I go for any other gadget like Dash Cam for future.
I have purchased a 12V to 5V USB adopter which I thought of providing a line on dash for my HUD gadget, so decided to connect with that. Took out the line covered under cable sheath, but cut the plug meant for the clock to detach it with a cutting plier without realizing a direct line wire also part of it.
OMG! I felt a short circuit signal indication in internal lights and that’s all about it.
Now I realized I caused a damage to internal electrical line, praying it should only be due to a simple blown out fuse and not a major problem.
I know, I would have not got into trouble if simply I detached the Battery terminal before or carefully segregated the live wire from the bundle. It’s my bad time.
THE CHALLENGE
The challenge is to find out which one fuse and how I am going to solve it by myself.
So many doubts are need to be clarified before I do something…..
What type of fuses are there, how to pull out the right blown one, whether any tool is required and where to buy a replacement FUSE spare? How many fuse circuits/Junctions are there in this car? Also, how am l going to access them in that difficult position especially those in-Dash Driver's seat area under the steering and what kind of GYMNASTIC POSTURE that I need to adopt....
There are so many online Honda forums, videos/discussions over internal lights failure and blown out fuse issues, but nothing was useful. Some not matched, some confused.
So it's the owner’s responsibility to carefully locate the dead fuse, may be the Auto Electrician pull out some and lucky enough to locate.
I know I can solve this issue by identifying the right fuse as the car is normal otherwise. So decided to try myself but ensuring not to cause further damage.
I restored the missing functions and learnt something in the process. Hope, this will be useful to those who come across such situation whatever car that they own.
WHAT I DID
I read and recalled my previous article in this thread when one of my fuse blown out while changing a LED bulb last time.
But neither I remember the type of fuse need to be replaced nor possess the required tool now to pull out.
I opened the location, with great difficulty I turned my head to see them inside. I couldn't find any fuse puller provided by the manufacturer in that panel and felt for the need of a nose plier at least to remove and check.
Took a nose plier, pulled out the fuse meant for small lights (what Auto Electrician changed last time) as there is no internal lights fuse in the diagram of the manual. Found the fuse is intact and now the head break started how to locate the real culprit?
Took the picture of the fuse panel inside, picture/sticker of fuse panel pasted at the lower side of A panel and compared with fuse diagram in the manual.
Made a drawing to segregate and not to touch the vital fuses like Airbag, AC, Door Motors which are all perfectly working and decided to test first the lower amp fuses like 7.5 A and 10A.
Correlating the pictures, actual fuse position was done but it's till I got confused to note some yellow colored part in the beginning at the top left corner that was hiding a fuse inside.
Is it the backup fuse? What's the purpose of it?
One Online site indicated that it controls ECU and warned me not to explore. I found out all other 7.5 / 10A fuses are intact and gave me a sleepless night as I could not identify the culprit.
The next day fortunately one online forum indicated the yellow part is nothing but a in box tool - FUSE PULLER provided by the Manufacturer.
Great, I pulled it out, came nicely and found out a 10A fuse underneath that marked as Backup fuse in the diagram.
I pulled it out... oh my God that's the culprit.
Now, I could locate two emergencies spare 10A fuses at the right end top in the fuse box itself, took one and replaced.
You know, how much I am happy when I could see the dome lamp lighted up and HU started singing.
COMMON FACTS FOR ALL CARS:
This experience taught me something which I feel would be useful to every car owner.
- Generally, there are three fuse junctions: 1. Under the hood in engine compartment, 2. In-Dash under the steering, 3. With the positive terminal of the battery. Third Gen ANHC has no under hood one.
- There are four types of car fuses, Third Gen ANHC uses MICRO LOW PROFILE ones.
- Accidental wire short cut first blows the 10A backup fuse, otherwise part specific to be checked in case of any particular malfunctioning part like AC, Door Motor etc.,
- Normally a fuse puller and some spare fuses are provided in the box.
- Fuse diagram to be studied from the sticker affixed in the box and manual as well.
- Major fuses like 100A at Battery terminal should be replaced at the garage/dealer service. In such cases car will be dead and not start.
- No standard symbols and guidance followed by automobile manufactures. Even among the same car the actual fuse used differs to different versions according to OE accessories provided.
- The manual is also not versions specific. It may indicate fuses which is not actually there.
- It’s better to keep some spare fuses
- During a need when there is no spare of the same rated ampere, temporally we can shift fuse of the same amperage belonging to another gadget whose use can be avoided for some time.
- Always same amperage fuse to be replaced.
- Driver side in dash replacement requires lot of patient and care as the fuse may slip & fall into the wire cluttered area or into the A pillar channel. (I missed one and could not trace it)
PLEASE NOTE:
- In modern cars and trucks, there are generally two types of circuits that run through the vehicle: circuits that are live all the time and circuits that are only active when the engine is running. A circuit that is live or hot all the time means that it constantly receives power, even when your car is parked and the engine is off.
- Hard wiring your Accessories like Dashcam to your fuse box has its benefits: not only does it free up your 12V cigarette outlet, it hides distracting wires to improve your windshield visibility and makes your Dashcam install look clean and professional.
FUSE BOX RELAY DETAILS
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READ MORE:
ANHC: HOW TO IDENTIFY AND REPLACE A BLOWN FUSE!
ANHC: ENGINE COMPARTMENT BATTERY FUSE BOX
CRACING@ FUSE TAP INTO ACCESSORIES FUSE HOLDER LOCATION ON THE FUSE BOX
CRACING@ DASHCAM WIRING
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HOW TO IDENTIFY CONSTANT AND SWITCHED FUSES
Fuse Holder Add-a-circuit TAP Adapter
LINK 1 LINK 2
Fuse Fetch Clip / Extractor Puller Tool