Part II
ALBUS gets AUDI TYPE DRL / SEQUENTIAL TURNING LIGHTS
You would have come across many DIY videos online but none of these videos are complete except they talk about more of wiring / connections.
On analysis, I found only two sellers have sold more than 10000 units and recorded with maximum reviews in AliExpress.
US $4.98 |2x Ultrafine DRL 30 45 60cm Daytime Running Light Flexible Soft Tube Guide Car LED Strip White Red Turn signal Yellow Waterproof-in Car Light Assembly from Automobiles & Motorcycles on AliExpress
US $6.99 44% OFF|OKEEN 2x Ultrafine Cars DRL LED Daytime Running Lights White Turn Signal Yellow Guide Strip for Headlight Assembly Drop Shipping-in Car Light Assembly from Automobiles & Motorcycles on AliExpress
One is inbuilt type and the other is modified external controller (I understand the old external type controllers had some Radio interference issues).
I preferred the modified external controller type with ribbon cable, ordered and received on the 18th day from China. This unit had both side sticky tape.
We need to do some
HOMEWORK before pasting them for a better life, Safety and performance:
Check for correct pair:
First I checked whether both are the correct RIGHT and LEFT strips and the LEDs are orderly placed - WHITE LEDs should face the front translucent thick border and YELLOW ones are on the rear symmetrically for both sides. Mine was not, though the seller sent R & L, I opened the end seal caps to invert and set right. Since I removed the LEDs copper strips from the silicone tubes, I felt that’s the right time to remove the double side tapes from silicone covers. Also checked whether all Diodes are lighting clearly so that one can claim refund immediately.
Please Note:
Double side tapes:
The double side tape with blue PVC ribbon comes on these units are unreliable,lousy and not heat resistant. Better to replace with 3M.
Generally, only one side is provided with sticky tape at the bottom where the LEDs are visible. But in this model both sides are provided. May be for the reason - one side to stick or any side to stick as we like / or to hide leakage of light from the open side. I removed both sides, to leave open on top side and to replace with half (6 mm – not to mask the diodes) of 1.2 mm 3M for the bottom side.
These stickers so gummy, you need to strip out the white ribbon cloth and then remove the gum by paint NC thinner slowly and carefully.
Double side tape on top side:
If you decide to leave the top without removing, Remove the blue PVC liner tape on the top to avoid blue shade and make the top surface non sticky by cleaning / putting little talcum powder. It may hide unnecessary illumination inside the bonnet if you want to leave it.
Double side tape on bottom side:
Bottom side is the side where diodes are visible and on TOP PASTING they will point towards light housing OR it should be reverse in case if it is pasted at the BOTTOM of the head light housing.
Right way to paste front:
We should also know to paste it in the right way. LEDs down if pasted on top/ LEDs up if pasted at the bottom and the translucent thick border of silicone tube facing front side. If you use other direction, the LEDs would be visible in front as cheap dotted line but may be brighter. If the double side tape is removed and a transparent double side tape is used or the Diodes are not masked by double side tape’s border as I did the entire head light housing will be illuminated. If diodes are masked by 1.2mm 3M tape, you see thin line of light in front, that may not be visible in Sunny day.
DOWN: NO MASK / COVERING OF DIODES
DOWN: MASKED / COVERED DIODES
What I did for me:
Removed both side stickers / cleaned the silicone sheaths by paint NC thinner, carefully inserted LEDs copper strip back to their correct order for Right and Left – white Diodes facing the front thicker line / Amber ones on the rear, closed all the end caps with FEVIBOND rubber solution which is easily available than silicone sealant. Allowed them to dry, and for 100% water proof wrapped neatly at the ends with plumber TEFLON tape.
Also, wrapped neatly end to end the EXTERNAL CONTROLLER/STABILIZER by black insulation tape for water / fire proof.
Checked the Strips for the right flow from bottom to top with 12-volt battery.
For pasting on the head lights some efforts are required for the 3rd Gen Honda City due to old hidden design, but it’s easy in new generation cars as the head lights are easily approachable.
I preferred pasting on top, so with the bits of thin 0.6 mm double side tape at the bottom, inserted to set sit as diodes down focusing to head light top gap, by NOT MASKING THE DIODES for better illumination. Also removed the original tape on top of the silicone flat strips to make them neat looking. I did not remove the bumper, but removed the two screws on the side bonnet parts that hides the head light assembly, used the gap to keep the silicone strip visible with the help of a plastic pry tool.
Of course, I opened the front grill little on top by removing the plastic rivets for getting the DRL Stabilizer controller inside to keep away from engine heat, also to do wiring easily.
Connections:
DIY enthusiasts’ different ways:
- MANUAL: Connecting the RED wire to battery with a bypass switch at the dashboard, BLACK to body earth, linking YELLOW wire to turning lights.
- AUTOMATIC: Connecting the RED wire to ACC / FUSE BOX, BLACK to body earth, linking YELLOW wire to turning lights.
- Connecting RED/BLACK wire to PARKING LIGHT wired respectively and YELLOW to turning signals. (Need to put Parking Lights if you want DRLs)
What I did for me:
I already have a line from ACC for my existing DRL lights with a bypass switch at the dashboard. For that, I have added a DRL Voltage Controller unit that sense the voltage and automatically SWITCH ON while the engine is running/charging the battery, and automatically SWITCH OFF when the engine is stopped. So I have both manual MASTER SWITCH and an AUTOMATIC DRL Voltage Controller as well. This system helps to avoid battery drainage even if you forget to switch off, also to control the lights overall.
So, I have linked / bifurcated the same line from ACC that has the Master Dashboard Switch already, added another AUTOMATIC DRL Voltage Controller, connected the RED wire to it, BLACK to body earth and YELLOW to turning indicator wiring that connects the yellow bulb in the head light housing. You need not cut, either slice little or use a Crimp Scotch Lock / T Tap connector.
So, I have now one Master Switch with two lines from ACC, routed through individual AUTOMATIC DRL Voltage Controller. This may help to switch off my DRLs in case if I have any issues in future like failure of Diodes /one side etc.,
US $2.49 |DRL Controller Auto Car LED Daytime Running Light Relay Harness Dimmer On/Off 12 18V Fog Light Controller 2016-in Car Light Assembly from Automobiles & Motorcycles on AliExpress
I have shared the best of my Experience/ Analysis.
I hope, you will get the BEST GUIDANCE here @ T
AI if you are interested in this type of DRLs, that you will never get from any other website.
ENJOY!
IN FUTURE, if you come across any issues with LEDs, this two YouTube video guidance may be useful or otherwise replace the faulty stripe with a new one.