Maruti Suzuki Swift: Technical Issues & Solutions

[goldenfox7]

I think the part no is 33-2974 for K&N replacement filter. Though you might want to do an online search to confirm the same. You could fit the same on your own, but you might need a couple of spanners and screw drivers to remove the bolts and screw on the air filter box. Or you could get it installed from a local mechanic, he would certainly have all the tools required for this job. Please ensure you wipe off the dust in the filter box with a damp cloth and later with a dry cloth before you place your K&N filter. Replacing Filter does not change anything in the ECU. The ECU just senses that with pressure on accelator, more air is flowing in due to which fuel flow would also increase which in turn increases your rpm and your low end torque. It would not affect the funtioning of the ECU in any manner. Just remember to appraise the ASS to not remove the filter or blow dry it else they might just replace the same with the normal one or damage the existing one (a costly mistake).

 

[ameyam]

Don't change to conical filters- it voids warranty as you remove or modify the air box.

I went for cartridge filter. It fits in the same frame as the stock filter. An you don't need any tools, just open two clamps that keep the filter bracket on. I paid Rs 50 for the guy to do it but I could have easily done it myself and will do so next time. By the way, the K&N filter cost me 6k for my Swift petrol.

They provide a sticker on the engine to indicate not to remove the filter at service but I wont take that chance. My stock filter was fairly clean anyway, I rinsed it out with soap water and then let it dry and its is quite clean. Will store it away in a plastic bag for later. When giving the car for service, I will put in the stock and remove the K&N.
My observation- the K&N changes the low speed torque. The car is able to just amble at low speeds without too much engine load. I do push my Swift around a bit now, just need to get the unnecessary aggression out of my system

Tushar, I still feel you shouldn't get into the filter just now. That car has more than sufficient torque in 1st. I have test driven the diesel. Just that the clutch engages higher by design- it doesn't engage at first, so you release quicker and causes the engine to struggle or stall. So if you are used to a different car, you need to get used to that clutch bite point. I would suggest you get to the point where you are driving by reflex action before you do the mods

Ameyam

 

[tusharbhai]

Don't change to conical filters- it voids warranty as you remove or modify the air box.

I went for cartridge filter. It fits in the same frame as the stock filter. An you don't need any tools, just open two clamps that keep the filter bracket on. I paid Rs 50 for the guy to do it but I could have easily done it myself and will do so next time. By the way, the K&N filter cost me 6k for my Swift petrol.

They provide a sticker on the engine to indicate not to remove the filter at service but I wont take that chance. My stock filter was fairly clean anyway, I rinsed it out with soap water and then let it dry and its is quite clean. Will store it away in a plastic bag for later. When giving the car for service, I will put in the stock and remove the K&N.
My observation- the K&N changes the low speed torque. The car is able to just amble at low speeds without too much engine load. I do push my Swift around a bit now, just need to get the unnecessary aggression out of my system

Tushar, I still feel you shouldn't get into the filter just now. That car has more than sufficient torque in 1st. I have test driven the diesel. Just that the clutch engages higher by design- it doesn't engage at first, so you release quicker and causes the engine to struggle or stall. So if you are used to a different car, you need to get used to that clutch bite point. I would suggest you get to the point where you are driving by reflex action before you do the mods

Ameyam

thanks for the valuable information about the filters but i will not be able to afford that at this time so, i might change it on 3rd service and without rev in 1st it struggles even if i release clutch slowly

 

[stingray91]

Guys you first separate your hearing, is it tyre noise or engine noise?,
If tyre noise, damp the inner firewall, and tyre arches, also floor and roof. Using damping sheets

 

[Altocumulus]

I think the part no is 33-2974 for K&N replacement filter. Though you might want to do an online search to confirm the same. You could fit the same on your own, but you might need a couple of spanners and screw drivers to remove the bolts and screw on the air filter box. Or you could get it installed from a local mechanic, he would certainly have all the tools required for this job. Please ensure you wipe off the dust in the filter box with a damp cloth and later with a dry cloth before you place your K&N filter. Replacing Filter does not change anything in the ECU. The ECU just senses that with pressure on accelator, more air is flowing in due to which fuel flow would also increase which in turn increases your rpm and your low end torque. It would not affect the funtioning of the ECU in any manner. Just remember to appraise the ASS to not remove the filter or blow dry it else they might just replace the same with the normal one or damage the existing one (a costly mistake).

Its better to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for 10-15 mins and connect it back. The ECU will be reset then and will adjust from scratch with the new hardware

 

[tusharbhai]

I think the part no is 33-2974 for K&N replacement filter. Though you might want to do an online search to confirm the same. You could fit the same on your own, but you might need a couple of spanners and screw drivers to remove the bolts and screw on the air filter box. Or you could get it installed from a local mechanic, he would certainly have all the tools required for this job. Please ensure you wipe off the dust in the filter box with a damp cloth and later with a dry cloth before you place your K&N filter. Replacing Filter does not change anything in the ECU. The ECU just senses that with pressure on accelator, more air is flowing in due to which fuel flow would also increase which in turn increases your rpm and your low end torque. It would not affect the funtioning of the ECU in any manner. Just remember to appraise the ASS to not remove the filter or blow dry it else they might just replace the same with the normal one or damage the existing one (a costly mistake).

Its better to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for 10-15 mins and connect it back. The ECU will be reset then and will adjust from scratch with the new hardware

so far i did only city driving or constant speed on highway is that why i cant see good pickup in my car?

 

[goldenfox7]

Ideally the ECU should be reset after installation of new hardware. This is so that the ECU can learn and adapt itself to the new hardware as well as to your driving style. It takes atleast a 100 km or so of driving for your ECU to reprogramme itself to your driving style. In some scenarios it might take more. Its preferable that during this learning curve you subject the ECU to your normal driving pattern rather than sticking to the highway at constant speed. Its just like running in your new car. The ECU should be subject to variable speed and rpm so that it can guage your response to the same and learn.

 

[ameyam]

Tushar,

with the car idling at 700rpm, if you just release clutch even slowly, it will judder but it shouldn't stall. If that's what is happening, its normal. I normally add just a tad of accelerator with the clutch release and it accelerates out just fine. If you add a lot of accelerator, depending on how much the clutch has bit in, it will either give a rpm surge or go forward like a rocket.

For now, just work with the settings as is and persist with the car. It took a long time for me to get out of the mindset that there is something wrong considering all the small differences between my old Waggie and the Swift. Now I don't feel those differences and the car basically drives by reflex
From a noise point of view, diesel will be slightly noiser & vibrate more than petrol or CNG. I am not sure underbody rustproofing is going to dampen anything. The car already has damping material in the engine bay and the new cars are quieter anyway

If you like booming sound in your car, do dampen the doors though
Ameyam

 

[goldenfox7]

Anti Rust coating promoted by most MASS do not have sound proofing qualities. If you require sound proofing, its better that you contact 3M centres in your city. They have a anti rusting solution with a 5 year warranty and are applied in a professional manner. I do agree that before plonking money into K&N you should give some accelerator input gradually while releasing the clutch and observe. This should ideally solve your problem. However, if it still does not solve your problems, you could go the K&N way. Just ensure that you do a thorough reading on the benefits and problems faced by K&N users before going that way. Because if it doesn't solve your problem, you are back to square one.

 

[tusharbhai]

Anti Rust coating promoted by most MASS do not have sound proofing qualities. If you require sound proofing, its better that you contact 3M centres in your city. They have a anti rusting solution with a 5 year warranty and are applied in a professional manner. I do agree that before plonking money into K&N you should give some accelerator input gradually while releasing the clutch and observe. This should ideally solve your problem. However, if it still does not solve your problems, you could go the K&N way. Just ensure that you do a thorough reading on the benefits and problems faced by K&N users before going that way. Because if it doesn't solve your problem, you are back to square one.

i have done anti rust coating on 1st service and i am happy with ambient low noise and k&n is 6000 rupees and you are saying what if it does not work

 

[goldenfox7]

Unfortunately Tushar, you need to be sure whether K&N would resolve your issue. Ideally I would say, let your ECU relearn your driving style. Start driving by giving gradual pressure to accelerator while releasing clutch. Once your ECU adapts, you should not face any issues.
I faced such an issue while moving from petrol to diesel car. I found the car eager to drive it. Now when I drive a petrol car, I find the car struggling while starting the car.
The ideal rpm for petrol car is around 700 while for diesel is between 800 and 850. This along with good amount of torque at low range doesn't let the diesel stutter. Similarly, if you keep the petrol within that range of around 850-900 rpm you would find it driving perfectly.
If all this doesn’t solve your issue, you could go the K&N way.
#Note: I'm not criticizing your driving style

 

[tusharbhai]

Unfortunately Tushar, you need to be sure whether K&N would resolve your issue. Ideally I would say, let your ECU relearn your driving style. Start driving by giving gradual pressure to accelerator while releasing clutch. Once your ECU adapts, you should not face any issues.
I faced such an issue while moving from petrol to diesel car. I found the car eager to drive it. Now when I drive a petrol car, I find the car struggling while starting the car.
The ideal rpm for petrol car is around 700 while for diesel is between 800 and 850. This along with good amount of torque at low range doesn't let the diesel stutter. Similarly, if you keep the petrol within that range of around 850-900 rpm you would find it driving perfectly.
If all this doesn’t solve your issue, you could go the K&N way.
#Note: I'm not criticizing your driving style

hey thanks to be frank i do not know anything what ecu is i just read somewhere that it monitors your driving style and i have been driving it smoothly since i bought it not roughly and mostly city driving so should i reset

 

[goldenfox7]

If the initial startup and stuttering is bothering, you could contemplate resetting the ECU before purchasing K&N.

 

[tusharbhai]

hey thanks to be frank i do not know anything what ecu is i just read somewhere that it monitors your driving style and i have been driving it smoothly since i bought it not roughly and mostly city driving so should i reset

If the initial startup and stuttering is bothering, you could contemplate resetting the ECU before purchasing K&N.

ok what to do after resseting and it does not harm right?

 

[Altocumulus]

ok what to do after resseting and it does not harm right?

No harm at all. As a matter of fact you should do it once in a while. Its like rebooting a computer once in a while if you normally keep it in sleep mode. After all the ECU is also a computer chip. Take off the negative terminal of your battery for 15 mins. Then put it back. The ECU will adapt to your driving style over sometime.

Off topic: How much was the km reading in your car when you received it ?

K&N is a complete no no if you are in a dusty area. Also cleaning the K&N filters is a skill. A little too much oil will end up in a lot of damage.