Barricade - Yamaha FZ-16 (2009) - Midnight Black


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deville_56

deville_56

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Bike was promised to be delivered by Saturday, but because of more atrocities by the former, need to rework some more and is delayed. Indeed, most of the threads in the engine are damaged and need to rethread.

greenhorn said:
Just curious - why are you going to a dealership when there are good non dealer options available?
Never mind, saw you went to KR motors finally. I wonder when people go to dealerships when KR is available. My dad once took his bike to a dealership nearby after 20 years of going to KR (he was feeling too old to ride to KR) but the experience left such a bad taste that he continued to go back to KR.

You have my vote for KR - my Dad has been his customer since the late 80's until he had to give up riding very recently due to failing health. They took care of his first 2 bikes (RX100 and Crux). The third bike (SZ-RR) was sold in a few months of buying due to his health and never saw a workshop
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KR was nice. He's just a kilometer or two from my home and it took 10 years to get to him.
 
#497
superhornet

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A quick question, Is it possible to install CBR 650F front master cylinder that is lying around unused with me? I know new brake lever will be needed but will can it be done? Swapping stock MC with bigger MC? hoping it'd increase brake bite.
 
Thread Starter #498
deville_56

deville_56

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superhornet said:
A quick question, Is it possible to install CBR 650F front master cylinder that is lying around unused with me? I know new brake lever will be needed but will can it be done? Swapping stock MC with bigger MC? hoping it'd increase brake bite.
Click to expand...
If the banjo bolt matches, it can be installed. There should be an obvious difference in stopping power. Even a steel braid hose swap makes day and night difference.
 
#499
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jrradr

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I recently changed my bikes front brake switch assembly. and installed the new one. for painting the bike and for cleaning, i removed all electrical connections. now when i set it back, my break light is always on when the battery get on. what will be the cause?
 
Thread Starter #500
deville_56

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jrradr said:
I recently changed my bikes front brake switch assembly. and installed the new one. for painting the bike and for cleaning, i removed all electrical connections. now when i set it back, my break light is always on when the battery get on. what will be the cause?
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Disconnect front and rear connections one by one and see which one is the culprit.
 
Thread Starter #502
deville_56

deville_56

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jrradr said:
Tried it. Normal only when both are disconnected.
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Complete the connection with a piece of wire instead of the switch and check whether the lights are turning on. If it's working normal, connect the rear switch first and adjust the rear brake switch and check whether it's working normal. Rear ones tend to get stuck with adjustment is wrong.

Then disconnect it and remove the front switch from the lever and connect and check manually pressing. Light should turn off when switch is pressed. Usually a worn out lever or worn or stuck switch shaft tend to cause the malfunction.
 
Thread Starter #503
deville_56

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October 2020 - Back with a Bang

2020-10-15 14-33-18.jpg


After the screw up by Royal Yamaha, gave it to KR Motors. The whole clutch assembly was damaged due to shoddy install by the former. Fearing more screw up, asked him to check the whole engine and do a reset if needed. Asked to do decarb as well since it was long and didn't do a decarb after running with faulty carb before replacing it. Replaced almost the whole clutch assembly. Only during reassembly they found most of the engine bolt threads are gone and needed rethreading thanks to the dickheads at Royal Yamaha. Engine had to be dismantled again and taken to lathe again.

Don't know what the magic is, but every time the bike comes from a mechanic it feels butter smooth even if it is a shoddy job.

Parts
Clutch Plate - 21CE63240000 - ₹ 41.00
Valve Stem Oil Seal - ₹ 40.00 x 2
Dowel Pin - ₹ 20.00
Magneto Cover Gasket - ₹ 28.00
Timing Cover Gasket - ₹ 28.00
Clutch Cable - ₹ 189.00
Ignition Coil Assembly - 21C-H2310-00 - ₹ 249.00
Clutch Adjuster Nut - ₹ 10.00
Clutch Boss - 21C-E6371-00 - ₹ 288.00
Exhaust Pipe Gasket - 21C-E4613-00 - ₹ 22.00
Cylinder Head Gasket - 54B-E1181-00 - ₹ 50.00
Clutch Pressure Plate - 54B-E6351-00 - ₹ 140.00
Oil Filter - 21C-E3440-00 - ₹ 48.00
Clutch Friction Plate - 54B-E6321-00 - ₹ 165.00 x 2
Clutch Friction Plate 2 - 21C-E6331-00 - ₹ 137.00 x 2
Yamalube SL 20W40 - 90793-AD403-00 - ₹ 325.00
AMCO Max AB5LB - ₹ 1,390.00

Total - ₹ 3594.00

Engine Head Seating and Guide Cutting - ₹ 650.00
Clutch Bell Bush and Rivetting - ₹ 450.00
Engine/Clutch Work + Electrical Checkup + Battery Replacement - ₹ 2,600.00
Engine Case Adapter and Threading - ₹ 450.00

Labor - ₹ 4150.00

Total Burn - ₹ 7744.00 (Plus the cheating by Royale Yamaha makes it ₹ 12,905.00)

AMCO Max AB5LB. Asked him specifically to get maintenance free battery, but due to shortage ended up with this. It's mentioned maintenance free, but need to topup water when required unlike other fit it forget it ones. Same model battery with higher capacity in GT.

2020-10-15 14-12-56.jpg


One thing I don't like about KR. Grease everywhere. Too old school.

2020-10-15 14-10-46.jpg


Noted panel gap

2020-10-15 14-22-49.jpg


and found a mount to be damaged [sad]

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Again missing bolt.

2020-10-15 14-25-13.jpg


Horn and charger not connected. I hate these, but being non-OE wiring, let it go.

2020-10-15 14-26-35.jpg
2020-10-15 14-20-46.jpg


I hate the most. Most mechanics damage these. They use small flat heads on this and boom [anger] A steel scale or chisel could've done a neat job.

2020-10-15 14-30-59.jpg
 
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#506
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explorer99

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Hello, my FZ16's petrol tank cap has been leaking petrol through the keyhole for a long time, I used to tape the key hole after I refuel it (I refuel the bike to almost full and wait until the fuel level reaches reserve for the next refueling). But this taping thing has become a nerve racking thing and I bought a new cap (genuine yamaha, Rs.410) as I put on the cap, I noticed that petrol is not coming out from the tank. If I remove the cap petrol flows out. Putting on the old cap (which obviously has a large gap in the keyhole through which the petrol evaporates) petrol flows out easily. I suppose there is an air hole which is allowing air inside the tank so that petrol goes out. Where is this hole located? I doubt that hole is somehow clogged. Cleaning it might get the tank working. I asked the shop owner if this is a manufacturing defect of yhe the new cap, he insisted there's no problem with the cap, the problem is with my bike's petrol tank. Please help me.
 
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