My New Honda City in White - The Albus

Essarr · Feb 23, 2015

"This LEDs" looks right to me (T10 base). Have you tried reversing polarity of the LED bulb (turning 180 degrees around and inserting the base into the socket)?

bhaveshce · Feb 23, 2015

Thanks CRACING & ESSARR for your kind & quick help. I was able to pull the bulb from the socket and put the LED on position light socket. LED seems 3 times bigger than the existing bulb in size. I haven't put back the socket yet so I am not sure whether it will be properly get fitted or not. I will fix the socket back in the car today evening. I have also ordered LED for the boot from aliexpress along with few other item which I hopefully received within ~45 days. [:D]

CRACING · Feb 23, 2015

bhaveshce said:

You mean length right? No, its not and if it is, then it probably won't fit in the bulb housing.

Here is the picture I took for you. You have the same bulb(s) right?

bhaveshce · Feb 23, 2015

CRACING,

Yes, mine is looking same as shown in picture posted by you but I have not exactly measured the length. Hopefully it will not be too large to fit into the assembly (fingers crossed). I will try to fit today evening when I reached to home. Anyway thanks for your continued support.

Few more questions:
After reading the post by Dr. Mudhan regarding the fuse, I am thinking to keep some spare fuses in my car so in emergency it can be handy. I have searched online for fuses and I found some on ebay & amazon. I have few questions.
1. Does car fuse car specific or generic?
2. I have seen in the pictures posted by Dr. Mudhan where there are fuses with different number printed on them. I believe that number is voltage specification of that fuse. Am I right?
3. In ANHC there some fuse with 7.5 voltage specification which is not there in ebay or amazon. From where you source the car fuse?

bhaveshce · Feb 23, 2015

Replacement LEDs got fitted perfectly fine and its working like a charm. Thanks CRACING & Essarr for your help to fix my issue.

Please answer my queries related to fuse which I had asked in my last post if anybody has any idea.

CRACING · Feb 23, 2015

Know More About Your Car Fuses

Basics: A fuse is nothing more than a short length of wire designed to melt and separate in the event of excessive current ( i.e wire short, overload, faulty component & etc ) so to protect the wiring and electrical equipments from more damage and fire. When a fuse blows, it opens a gap large enough so that an arc (which burns at a very high temperature) can't form between the terminals inside the fuse. A low voltage fuse like an AGU fuse may not be able to open a large enough gap to quench the arc. That would allow current to continue flowing (current would jump the gap in the fusible element in the form of an arc). This could result in an electrical fire.

Example:

A good blade-type fuse (a) and a blown one (b).

Fuse Ratings: There are two important specifications for fuses. The first is simply the current rating. Fuses are rated for a given number of amps (amperes). Fuses are not rated in watts. If a fuse has 30 printed on it, it's a 30 amp fuse, not a 30 watt fuse. In automobiles, fuse rating is printed on top and they use a common coloring scheme for identification of fuse ratings (amps) as well. The second specification is the voltage. This isn't really important if you're simply replacing a fuse that has blown with the same type, especially in automobiles.

Automobile Fuses and types: Fuses typically used in automobiles are generally rated no higher then 24 volts direct current. Automobile fuses are called as Blade fuses, Spade fuses or Plug-in fuses which is made of plastic body and two prongs that fit into sockets. There are six different physical sizes. ie micro2, micro3, low-profile mini, mini, regular, and maxi.

More info about car fuse, please visit following links:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(automotive)
Changing a Fuse - Vehicle Maintenance - How To Guides at DMV.org: The DMV Made Simple
FUSES
How to Change a Vehicle's Fuses - For Dummies

@bhaveshce

Now back to your query. Like its said above, you don't have to worry about fuse voltages nor a car fuse has voltage rating printed. You just have to know the amps, fuse size and built quality of fuse. I have seen some fuses in local market that have poor built quality and I doubt there rated amps is correct. i.e a 10 amps fuse can pass more then 10A current instead of blowing or a 10 amps fuse cannot withstand rated amperes, instead blows when more then 5A but less then 10A current is passed. As of fuse size, most of cars use mini type. Also you don't need plenty of fuses to keep incase of emergency. Just 2 to 3 fuses of each amperes is fine.

A fuse won't blow by itself but something wrong has occurred to the wires or the component so you shouldn't not replace the blown fuse to a new one because, in most cases it blows again so first you should check what caused that fuse to blow, resolve the cause and when everything looks fine, you can put a new fuse of a correct rating/color.

Hope I have fulfilled your query but feel free to ask more. It looks like Dr. is busy now-a-days so I thought to write up some details about car fuses with the help of info found online. May be its not complete but I hope it helps little.

Thanks...
Best Regards

Essarr · Feb 24, 2015

CRACING said:

Any reason for not going with LEDs for indicator bulbs? I have changed mine to amber and they seem to work just fine (too early tell, perhaps?).

-SR

bhaveshce · Feb 24, 2015

Thanks CRACING for the detailed write up on automobile fuses. [thumbsup]

It is really good information which everybody should be aware of.

CRACING said:

Understood and agreed.

So where do you source the fuse for your ANHC? Online or local accessory store?

CRACING · Feb 24, 2015

Essarr said:

Actually, I didn't mind to replace them to LEDs because indicators work occasionally. Also I guess colored halogen bulbs look better then colored LEDs in daylight. What do you say?

bhaveshce said:

I'd go to local market or any car dealers and buy those are good in quality.

Fuses listed in ebay and amazon are too many and you really don't need that much fuses. Also quality is uncertainty.

quraish786 · Feb 24, 2015

Essarr said:

Yes I agree. 4500LM might be way to bright.
I am contemplating the 3600LM (5000K). Its cheaper too.
But I still want to give the LED option a go [:)]

My trial and error might save the money of others in the forum. [;)]

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CRACING said:

THANKS for the inputs Cracing. Just some answers to the points you have raised. Please do correct me if I am wrong

4. 6000K is not good for visibility, especially in fog.
- Thats why I am choosing 5000K. Anywhich ways I barely encounter foggy conditions and I do have Fog Lamps too

5. In theory, LED life is 30,000 hours but we don't know its reality. It may burn right after powered ON or after few hours of usage or as rated if the bulb is happy. You can trust branded LED bulbs (i.e from Philips, Osram) but never on Chinese LEDs.
- These LED's carry a one year replacement warranty. Don't know how well the warranty settlement may work though. Also these are Cree LED Chips which are quite proven and reliable.
Also another point to note is that not all chinese products have inferior quality.

6. Heat is the another problem of/for LEDs. The LED bulb you have seen, has a big sink plus a fan affixed which needs to run without fail and dust free. Secondly, LED may suffer from engine heat since it will be near.
Again as stated Earlier, the LED's produce much lower heat than the standard Halogen and HID bulbs.
The manufacturers are providing rubber shields to protect them from dust and heat.

7. Investing in expensive products inwhich you don't have trust or it has no warranty, is not a good idea. Led you have shown costs, 6200+ INR.
The 3600 LM cost about 4K. (Which is about twice the cost of an upgrade to Night Breakers / Extreme Vision) so it is not too bad i think.
Also I am a technology fan so if I do have to spend for something innovative and unique I would certainly consider it.

I think it comes with a driver.
Yes it does come with a built in Driver. But for us we just need to connect the original wire to the socket provided. No wire cutting involved.

-----------------------

Also for anyone else who is considering going in for the pre-flickering brake lamps please do not give it a go.
I though that it will blink a few times before going steady red.

Unfortunately it just flickers like a spoilt tubelight fuse before it goes steady. (I'll upload a video sometime later)

Doesn't look elegant at all.

PS - DR Mudhan is very much missed in this thread. No inputs from him in a long time.

CRACING · Feb 24, 2015

quraish786 said:

This one looks good as its LM is not high and the driver is inbuilt but I see there are plenty of different headlight LEDs in aliexpress and cannot be sure which is best until tested.

quraish786 said:

Ok but the listing you shown above is available in white (6000k) only, atleast with that seller. Should send him message or find more in aliexpress.

quraish786 said:

Yes some sellers provide warranty but its bit troublesome if seller asks to return the malfunction product. I have no idea about warranty settlement though.

My H11 cree led for fog lights is running fine so far and its been 10 months now. I use it as DRLs also.

quraish786 said:

Yes but until unless we physical examine it. Product pictures look good though.

quraish786 said:

Halogen and HID bulbs can withstand plenty of heat as well as peek voltage/current but LEDs are more sensitive.

quraish786 said:

No harm in trying it and if you don't like it, you can sell it to anyone. [:)]

quraish786 said:

Did you bought different kind bulb then the one suggested by Dr.?

First it flickers faster then slower then goes steady.

Essarr · Feb 24, 2015

CRACING said:

Regarding indicator bulbs (amber), I did not find any change in the colour rendition between LED and halogen. In fact, two things I noticed with the amber LEDs, is that they seems marginally brighter, and on/off sequence of indicator (hazard warning) more precise. In other words, the halogens to go from unlit to lit has a bit of a lag or fade between the on/off sequence (if you catch my meaning). Makes not much of a difference, so not an issue.

What I am not too happy about with the LEDs is the tail light cluster parking (T10) and brake lights (T20) that has 6000K LEDs. With the light that has to pass thru a red filter (tail light lenses), the RED seems a bit washed out (or faded, but brighter) in comparison to OEM WY20W halogen. Perhaps warm-white LEDs (3200-3500K) may be a better choice for rear brake/parking to deal with the red lens filter.

Essarr · Feb 25, 2015

quraish786 said:

Good thing you are going ahead with headlight LED conversion.
To be frank, one will not be able to make out the difference between 5000K and 6000K colour temperature (take it from a guy who had dealt with cine and studio lighting and filters). It is only when you get below 4000K that one notices that 'warming' effect in the light output. And as for real-life fog lamps, (for one who has driven regularly in such conditions for a while) only the real 'yellow' light (as in France's headlight regulations) will cut the fog and not bounce back at you.

As for Dr. Mudhan, for one, others (including me) have totally taken over his post, and two, give him a rest because most of the questions that has been asked in recent times have already been answered somewhere in the past 60-odd pages. Nevertheless, what a place for Cityfolks...!

quraish786 · Feb 25, 2015

Essarr said:

Thank you.
Yes I agree. 5000K is still White. But it has a tinge of yellow when it falls on the ground. That is the effect I am looking for. I am specifically looking out for white light. (I know everyone has their own individual views and preferences on this [:)]

)

Yes anything above 3000K does not really cut the fog. I don't know how good the OEM bulbs work in the fog but that is one of the reasons I have not yet replaced them to LED's. If I do go for a conversion then it would be 3000K for sure.
In either case there is no danger of fog in Pune and the only place where we do get mildly foggy conditions are in Lonavala during the rains.

As for using them as DRL's I would rather prefer the 12" COB's.

I also did consider using the LED White / Amber strip, but since it involved opening of the headlight to install I decided to give it a skip.

You Betcha !!! [cheers]

CRACING · Feb 25, 2015

Day-by-day this thread is going more through-wards DIY related and less about main topic, The Albus ownership. Telling to Dr. as "please don't mind" or "Sorry to hijack your thread" doesn't feel good either. :redface:

I think we should really make a new thread (Especially related to LEDs) or use any existing threads in DIY section.

Essarr said:

Thanks for let me know. I will look for some good T20 LED bulbs on aliexpress.

Essarr said:

Amber color LED is around 3000K right? If so, you can try putting one of your indicator LEDs to brake lights and see the difference.

quraish786 said:

Me too wanted to do this but its a tricky job. [roll]

My New Honda City in White - The Albus

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