Thread Starter
#1,576
I just saw this on the Hyundai website. Never thought of looking at the oil grade. Thanks for letting me know. Will keep this in mind.
Hyundai Fluidic Verna 1.6 VTVT | 6 Years | 54,000 Kms: Ownership Review
- Thread Starter allhyundaicars
- Start date
Injector cleaning for 150 Rs?
Am I reading this right? Or is your car petrol thats why?
Am I reading this right? Or is your car petrol thats why?
5W30 is a thinner oil than 10w40. Maybe Hyundai recommends this for free revving nature or to boost fuel economy. Using slightly thicker oil, Esp in Indian Heat would not do any harm I think.
Thread Starter
#1,579
What's the rate for cleaning the injectors in your city
They do this in this small machine.
PS : just saw the rates of fuel injectors on 99rpm.
Verna petrol - 4700 rs each
Verna diesel - 27000rs each :/
Even I read on some site that a thicker oil grade can be used in an old car. So should I switch or let it be ?
They do this in this small machine.
PS : just saw the rates of fuel injectors on 99rpm.
Verna petrol - 4700 rs each
Verna diesel - 27000rs each :/
Even I read on some site that a thicker oil grade can be used in an old car. So should I switch or let it be ?
No probs in going for 40 instead of 30. But in the case of the number on the left hand side ie 5 in the case of 5w30 it's just the opposite. It need to be same as 5 or even less and should not be higher.
5W40 or 0W40 is fine. But running an engine with 10w40 instead of the recommended grade of 5w30 is harmful especially when the climate is cool.
If you need better fuel efficiency then better stick to 0w30 or 5w30 itself.
0w40 makes the engine extra silent, smooth but reduces the efficiency and performances a bit.
5W40 or 0W40 is fine. But running an engine with 10w40 instead of the recommended grade of 5w30 is harmful especially when the climate is cool.
If you need better fuel efficiency then better stick to 0w30 or 5w30 itself.
0w40 makes the engine extra silent, smooth but reduces the efficiency and performances a bit.
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The number on left is viscosity when engine is cold. Number on right is when Oil is hot. Hotter the oil gets, Thinner it gets and vice versa. A 10w40 will hold its density/Lubricity better in heat than say 0w30. However, 0w30 will not thicken/freeze as quickly as 10w40 may.
India does not get extreme chills to worry that much.
Injector cleaning rates of 2k to 10k per set (4pcs) is common. Cleaning is a hit or miss. Smaller problems maybe solved. Pitting or electrical failures will not be solved.
India does not get extreme chills to worry that much.
Injector cleaning rates of 2k to 10k per set (4pcs) is common. Cleaning is a hit or miss. Smaller problems maybe solved. Pitting or electrical failures will not be solved.
Hi bhvm,
My point wasn't 0w30 should be the right choice instead of 10w40. My recommendation was 0w40 or 5w40 if one wish to go for a thicker oil, but not a 10w40.
We all know, engine wears out the most in it's cold start and not in it's warm operating condition. If this cold start wear and tear happens even with the "manufacturer recommended" engine oil grade, then it's not a wise movement in choosing a grade which is less lubricating in its cold start condition isn't it?
That's what my point is.
A cold viscous 0w is not going to make any extra wear in this engine in it's cold start, since the recommended cold viscous grade is 5w.
So a 0w should work equal or better than the 5w grade in the cold start conditions.
And Since we are using a "multi"grade engine oil. The hot viscous 30 along with this 0w(combined to form 0w30) is not going to harm this engine compared to using a cold viscous 10w instead of the "manufacturer recommended' grade of 5w-30.
Hence recommended to stick on to this 5w30 or even 0w30 if fuel efficiency has more priority.
Regards,
My point wasn't 0w30 should be the right choice instead of 10w40. My recommendation was 0w40 or 5w40 if one wish to go for a thicker oil, but not a 10w40.
We all know, engine wears out the most in it's cold start and not in it's warm operating condition. If this cold start wear and tear happens even with the "manufacturer recommended" engine oil grade, then it's not a wise movement in choosing a grade which is less lubricating in its cold start condition isn't it?
That's what my point is.
A cold viscous 0w is not going to make any extra wear in this engine in it's cold start, since the recommended cold viscous grade is 5w.
So a 0w should work equal or better than the 5w grade in the cold start conditions.
And Since we are using a "multi"grade engine oil. The hot viscous 30 along with this 0w(combined to form 0w30) is not going to harm this engine compared to using a cold viscous 10w instead of the "manufacturer recommended' grade of 5w-30.
Hence recommended to stick on to this 5w30 or even 0w30 if fuel efficiency has more priority.
Regards,
What was your fuel efficiency before this? Has it improved after all the servicing ?
Try full synthetic oil. 5w30, 5w40 will do. I use shell helix 5w40. Works out well for me.
Did you try Iridium sparks plugs or just regular ones?
Injector cleaning is quite cheap. I thought machine cleaning would have been cheaper. I tried 2 cans of the fuel additive from liqui moly. Not a lot of difference. But then i had no problems with fuel efficiency as such.
I see that you have not mentioned anything about cleaning the MAF sensor.
What is your feedback for the throttle body cleaner ? Saw it on amazon for 133+shipping.
Try full synthetic oil. 5w30, 5w40 will do. I use shell helix 5w40. Works out well for me.
Did you try Iridium sparks plugs or just regular ones?
Injector cleaning is quite cheap. I thought machine cleaning would have been cheaper. I tried 2 cans of the fuel additive from liqui moly. Not a lot of difference. But then i had no problems with fuel efficiency as such.
I see that you have not mentioned anything about cleaning the MAF sensor.
What is your feedback for the throttle body cleaner ? Saw it on amazon for 133+shipping.
Thread Starter
#1,584
I haven't driven the car after service. It has been standing at the same place for the past 10 days (using Elantra)
Car running will reduce at the end of this year so no point going synthetic now.
The spark plugs are normal. I haven't noticed maf cleaning in the service manual so never thought of cleaning it. Is it recommended ?
The cleaner worked good and all the carbon dropped as soon as it came in contact. I was wondering that the Hass clean the throttle body using the spray without taking out the part so all the carbon deposit would go inside and it may do more harm than good. What do you think about this ? Look at the deposits in the images I shared.
I think the cleaner that I bought for 180rs is a size larger than what you saw on Amazon. The small one costs 90rs in the market.
Car running will reduce at the end of this year so no point going synthetic now.
The spark plugs are normal. I haven't noticed maf cleaning in the service manual so never thought of cleaning it. Is it recommended ?
The cleaner worked good and all the carbon dropped as soon as it came in contact. I was wondering that the Hass clean the throttle body using the spray without taking out the part so all the carbon deposit would go inside and it may do more harm than good. What do you think about this ? Look at the deposits in the images I shared.
I think the cleaner that I bought for 180rs is a size larger than what you saw on Amazon. The small one costs 90rs in the market.
Clean the maf once in a while. That decides the air fuel ratio.
The before and after pics speaks volumes. I have no clue how the HASS does it. Best to clean the whole TB after removing. Makes for a more thorough job.
Will check on that in the local market. Might visit a local FNG for the job if i am unable to find the time to do it myself.
The before and after pics speaks volumes. I have no clue how the HASS does it. Best to clean the whole TB after removing. Makes for a more thorough job.
Will check on that in the local market. Might visit a local FNG for the job if i am unable to find the time to do it myself.
Thread Starter
#1,586
the mileage problem just got bigger. today decided to take the verna and as soon as i started the car i noticed 3 (10 liters approx) petrol bars missing. how can this happen since i did a tankful and drove for just 4 kms. petrol is leaking ? ![[frustration]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Frustration.gif "Frustration [frustration]")
i didn't get any petrol smell while driving.
will look for leakages and i am sure the car just ran 4 kms since i did a trip meter reset and entered the details on my fuel application.
i didn't get any petrol smell while driving. will look for leakages and i am sure the car just ran 4 kms since i did a trip meter reset and entered the details on my fuel application.
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Just speaking from something I've experienced from the Scorpio. Are you sure the bars were all lit up when you filled it up first? Sometimes, I fill the tank till the automatic shutoff, sometimes even more after the bubbles settle down and even then only seven out of 8 bars come up.
In any case though, three bars is something I'd be very wary of. Hope your car have any leaks in the tank or anywhere in the fuel system.
In any case though, three bars is something I'd be very wary of. Hope your car have any leaks in the tank or anywhere in the fuel system.
Thread Starter
#1,588
I always get the tankful when 2-3 bars are left and it takes around 34-36 liters and this time too I filled 36.4 liters.
But your point is also valid. Don't recall seeing full bar. Still will get it checked tomorrow or the day after
But your point is also valid. Don't recall seeing full bar. Still will get it checked tomorrow or the day after
Might be a fuel gauge problem. The leveler might be stuck or not working.
In my car, if i hit the reserve light or close to that, i can refuel with 35+ liters till autostop. The fuel guage has always shown the bars all the way up.
I had seen something similar in another car where meter did not reflect the actual fuel quantity right after refuelling. But this got rectified after driving for a few minutes.
Get this fixed asap. If meter reading is inaccurate, there are chances that you run out of fuel while meter is showing something else.
A very wild solution which may not make sense or fix things. Try getting the car, up and down a steep incline. :P
In my car, if i hit the reserve light or close to that, i can refuel with 35+ liters till autostop. The fuel guage has always shown the bars all the way up.
I had seen something similar in another car where meter did not reflect the actual fuel quantity right after refuelling. But this got rectified after driving for a few minutes.
Get this fixed asap. If meter reading is inaccurate, there are chances that you run out of fuel while meter is showing something else.
A very wild solution which may not make sense or fix things. Try getting the car, up and down a steep incline. :P
If you didn't find any leak, then get back to the fuel station and make the tank full, shake the vehicle if possible and check the behavior of the fuel guage indicator.
My astar generally takes around 3 and vento 7 liters of extra fuel after the auto cutoff.
My astar generally takes around 3 and vento 7 liters of extra fuel after the auto cutoff.