Thread Starter
#1
Back to DIY business.
Situation: Was thinking about converting tail lamps to LEDs since I bought the bike, but the missing oomph factor![[evil]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Evil.gif "Evil [evil]")
and too much gap in my Unicorn LED tail lamp project left me unsatisfied and left me hopeless. Again, wanted to do something for Barricade for his b'day. Pulled sleeves and when ahead.
Old UNi LEDs
Strobe effect was not in my mind. I was just planning a simple LED setup with max number of LEDs in minimum space. Removed tail lamp cover and made template out of foam board. After soldering all LEDs there was lots of gap between them and output was same as what I feared of, same as UNi. First set was too close to PCB, no clearance between. Added another set in the height of the first set. Result, sparkling crystal effect. When testing the prototype brother just asked can we add strobe effect and I said no. Then he searched youtube and there were many awesome videos and I was wondering how could I get those effect on mine as all of them were PIC programmed and myself and our own Aditya tried making strobes in the past with discrete components and of course we failed. Then came to my mind the old type R strobe set I bought to fit in car and later declined as fish seller's CT100 and pickup autos started putting real cheap replicas of strobes in their machine. It had a controller and two set of fog lamp-shaped LED sets. Why can't I mate it with my tail lamps??? Then began the real project F1-styled LED tail lamp.
First prototype had 120 LEDs, but no provision for number plate illumination. Removed 24 and converted to 96 LED setup and 6 white LEDs for number plate. On testing, whites were not spreading wide as they were too close to the plate and current sharing was not proper with some being bright and some dull and frequent burning out.
Dropped the project halfway. After a while started version 2.0, same old setup with bulb instead of white LEDs. The same kind of bulb in dashboard/speedo backlit. Bought a dashboard holder, took it apart and fixed it over PCB (trickiest part). On test, this setup was successful except light from bulb blinding LEDs crystal effect, but LEDs were still brighter. Tried covering bulb with insulation tape, but tape burnt off in 5 minutes of testing. Eureka!!!! Aluminium foil. Covered the bulb with aluminium foil with one left open.
Finalized the designed. With diodes to separate park/brake connection and resistor for dimming effect, circuit was done.
Fixed over the reflector. Made care not to deform it so that I can return to stock setup anytime in the future. Used rubber sleeves for insulation and entire setup looks direct out of factory (my best ever). No wires cut, not even single mod in body to route connection and strobe unit connected and finally ...........
..... and to be frank, even I didn't expect it would be awesome like this
Description:
96 Red LEDs and 1 park light/backlit bulb
Max compact packaging and crystal effect
Same set of LEDs for both park and brake lights
Modes:
1. Park light. LEDs dim and number plate illumination ON.
2. Brake light. Dim lighting with full bright strobe effect.
Really a headturner and blinding in dark
Template
cut PCB
Prototype
On test
Rev 2.0 without bulb covering in full bright
Final product
on test
Type R strobe controller
and finally
park mode
brake/strobe mode
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wPnCA-TLqQ&feature=player_embedded
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-5SLwSG2Bs&feature=player_embedded
Situation: Was thinking about converting tail lamps to LEDs since I bought the bike, but the missing oomph factor
and too much gap in my Unicorn LED tail lamp project left me unsatisfied and left me hopeless. Again, wanted to do something for Barricade for his b'day. Pulled sleeves and when ahead.
Old UNi LEDs
Strobe effect was not in my mind. I was just planning a simple LED setup with max number of LEDs in minimum space. Removed tail lamp cover and made template out of foam board. After soldering all LEDs there was lots of gap between them and output was same as what I feared of, same as UNi. First set was too close to PCB, no clearance between. Added another set in the height of the first set. Result, sparkling crystal effect. When testing the prototype brother just asked can we add strobe effect and I said no. Then he searched youtube and there were many awesome videos and I was wondering how could I get those effect on mine as all of them were PIC programmed and myself and our own Aditya tried making strobes in the past with discrete components and of course we failed. Then came to my mind the old type R strobe set I bought to fit in car and later declined as fish seller's CT100 and pickup autos started putting real cheap replicas of strobes in their machine. It had a controller and two set of fog lamp-shaped LED sets. Why can't I mate it with my tail lamps??? Then began the real project F1-styled LED tail lamp.
First prototype had 120 LEDs, but no provision for number plate illumination. Removed 24 and converted to 96 LED setup and 6 white LEDs for number plate. On testing, whites were not spreading wide as they were too close to the plate and current sharing was not proper with some being bright and some dull and frequent burning out.
Dropped the project halfway. After a while started version 2.0, same old setup with bulb instead of white LEDs. The same kind of bulb in dashboard/speedo backlit. Bought a dashboard holder, took it apart and fixed it over PCB (trickiest part). On test, this setup was successful except light from bulb blinding LEDs crystal effect, but LEDs were still brighter. Tried covering bulb with insulation tape, but tape burnt off in 5 minutes of testing. Eureka!!!! Aluminium foil. Covered the bulb with aluminium foil with one left open.
Finalized the designed. With diodes to separate park/brake connection and resistor for dimming effect, circuit was done.
Fixed over the reflector. Made care not to deform it so that I can return to stock setup anytime in the future. Used rubber sleeves for insulation and entire setup looks direct out of factory (my best ever). No wires cut, not even single mod in body to route connection and strobe unit connected and finally ...........
..... and to be frank, even I didn't expect it would be awesome like this
Description:
96 Red LEDs and 1 park light/backlit bulb
Max compact packaging and crystal effect
Same set of LEDs for both park and brake lights
Modes:
1. Park light. LEDs dim and number plate illumination ON.
2. Brake light. Dim lighting with full bright strobe effect.
Really a headturner and blinding in dark
Template
cut PCB
Prototype
On test
Rev 2.0 without bulb covering in full bright
Final product
on test
Type R strobe controller
and finally
park mode
brake/strobe mode
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wPnCA-TLqQ&feature=player_embedded
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-5SLwSG2Bs&feature=player_embedded
Last edited:
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