This means they are not simply rubber but silicones ones.That good to hear.
But still keep a couple of them handy.
But still keep a couple of them handy.
Barricade - Yamaha FZ-16 (2009) - Midnight Black
- Thread Starter deville_56
- Start date
Thread Starter
#407
July 2019: More trouble - Broken side panel
These were second set of side panels. Due to stress at mounting bolt, it cracked.
Superglue'd.
Solution: Bigger hole.
Yeah. Added to thing-to-buy list.
These were second set of side panels. Due to stress at mounting bolt, it cracked.
Superglue'd.
Solution: Bigger hole.
Yeah. Added to thing-to-buy list.
Thread Starter
#408
August 2019:
Welded the seat lock. Got it done at Mahavishnu Auto Engineering, a small lathe workshop run by some young chaps, referred to me by @varunkumar2910. They were pretty fast and no unnecessary questioning like old guys. Cheaper too, took only ₹20.00. Learned that all workshops in the vicinity gets their lathe and welding works there, also including a couple of ASCs.
Painted matt black reaching home.
Welded the seat lock. Got it done at Mahavishnu Auto Engineering, a small lathe workshop run by some young chaps, referred to me by @varunkumar2910. They were pretty fast and no unnecessary questioning like old guys. Cheaper too, took only ₹20.00. Learned that all workshops in the vicinity gets their lathe and welding works there, also including a couple of ASCs.
Painted matt black reaching home.
Thread Starter
#409
August 2019:
Thinking monsoon was over and seeing the amount of muck, decided to give a thorough wash. Removed wheel hugger for proper access.
Bathed in diesel.
Then came the EB guys, turning off the electricity supply for changing street lights.
Sitting idle for an hour, decided to lube either steering or swing arm. Steering column won the toss. Didn't disassemble front end completely, inviting trouble, next post.
There was knocking sound on hard braking, thought it was forks. Steering column was't loose. To my surprise, bearing set was in great shape.
Cleaned and lubed.
And installed back.
After installation, headlight wasn't working. There was loose contact for some time, like it won't turn on instantly and needed turning handle to either side a couple of times. Thought it was break in the wiring. Removed the headlight again to check on that. Shaking the ground made it work, and the wire came off the connector![[frustration]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Frustration.gif "Frustration [frustration]")
Got a ceramic holder from the neighborhood store aka Spark Automobiles. Varroc make and costed ₹ 65.00.
Found more trouble. Oxidized wire
Wiring kit got added to-buy list.
Cleaned the oxidation and connected the wire and sleeved.
Taped the wiring.
and just as wrapping up, felt something fishy..
.. and it poured all of a sudden. Got just enough time to finish the job.
Power came and washed the bike (while it was raining outside)![[evil]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Evil.gif "Evil [evil]")
again only to ride in rain again.
Thinking monsoon was over and seeing the amount of muck, decided to give a thorough wash. Removed wheel hugger for proper access.
Bathed in diesel.
Then came the EB guys, turning off the electricity supply for changing street lights.
Sitting idle for an hour, decided to lube either steering or swing arm. Steering column won the toss. Didn't disassemble front end completely, inviting trouble, next post.
There was knocking sound on hard braking, thought it was forks. Steering column was't loose. To my surprise, bearing set was in great shape.
Cleaned and lubed.
And installed back.
After installation, headlight wasn't working. There was loose contact for some time, like it won't turn on instantly and needed turning handle to either side a couple of times. Thought it was break in the wiring. Removed the headlight again to check on that. Shaking the ground made it work, and the wire came off the connector
Got a ceramic holder from the neighborhood store aka Spark Automobiles. Varroc make and costed ₹ 65.00.
Found more trouble. Oxidized wire
Wiring kit got added to-buy list.
Cleaned the oxidation and connected the wire and sleeved.
Taped the wiring.
and just as wrapping up, felt something fishy..
.. and it poured all of a sudden. Got just enough time to finish the job.
Power came and washed the bike (while it was raining outside)
again only to ride in rain again.
Last edited:
Thread Starter
#410
September 2019: More Trouble.
Sky started clearing up. Again wash time.
And found the new trouble. Bent/broken throttle cable. Inner wire started disintegrating. While returning from work, throttle got stuck at 5-6k rpm. Had to use higher gears with brakes slammed to keep it low and played with clutch to keep it low in traffic jams. Even had to run a red light, which I never do. Took longer less traffic routes and managed to reach home.
FZ version one had 3 types of carburetors and 4 types of cables, so can't simply ask for throttle cable, either chassis number for them to lookup (works only with dealer). First two versions were single cable. Last version was twin cabled carb. So have to ask for single cable initial version or shorter version. I simply order with part number. No confusion, both of us would be happy.
Accelerator Cable - 21CF63110000 - ₹ 245.00
Replaced choke cable as well. Don't use choke much or rather don't use at all.
Choke Cable - 21CF63310100 - ₹ 115.00
For proper access, need to take off the tank panels and front end. Mechanics often do without disassembly resulting in wrong routing, which results in high rpms with handle turning.
Remove throttle cable first. Now the throttle valve is seen stuck way above idle position.
Then the choke cable.
Removed the carb to check the stuck valve.
Used Wurth Carb and Injector Cleaner, snatched from @varunkumar2910
Carb bowl was clean.
Sprayed through every hole and cavity.
Only minimal dirt/residue.
Carb slide full of scratch. 80k km on this one. Previous one ran around 60k km.
Cleaned and installed back.
Choke parts.
Installing new cables. First the choke cable.
Then the throttle cable.
Old throttle cable.
Connecting cables to carb, self explanatory.
All set and done.
Outcome was pretty bad. Pseudo-turbo lag. 3-4k rpm dark spot. Power builds up after that range. Plug turns pitch black in no time.
Sky started clearing up. Again wash time.
And found the new trouble. Bent/broken throttle cable. Inner wire started disintegrating. While returning from work, throttle got stuck at 5-6k rpm. Had to use higher gears with brakes slammed to keep it low and played with clutch to keep it low in traffic jams. Even had to run a red light, which I never do. Took longer less traffic routes and managed to reach home.
FZ version one had 3 types of carburetors and 4 types of cables, so can't simply ask for throttle cable, either chassis number for them to lookup (works only with dealer). First two versions were single cable. Last version was twin cabled carb. So have to ask for single cable initial version or shorter version. I simply order with part number. No confusion, both of us would be happy.
Accelerator Cable - 21CF63110000 - ₹ 245.00
Replaced choke cable as well. Don't use choke much or rather don't use at all.
Choke Cable - 21CF63310100 - ₹ 115.00
For proper access, need to take off the tank panels and front end. Mechanics often do without disassembly resulting in wrong routing, which results in high rpms with handle turning.
Remove throttle cable first. Now the throttle valve is seen stuck way above idle position.
Then the choke cable.
Removed the carb to check the stuck valve.
Used Wurth Carb and Injector Cleaner, snatched from @varunkumar2910
Carb bowl was clean.
Sprayed through every hole and cavity.
Only minimal dirt/residue.
Carb slide full of scratch. 80k km on this one. Previous one ran around 60k km.
Cleaned and installed back.
Choke parts.
Installing new cables. First the choke cable.
Then the throttle cable.
Old throttle cable.
Connecting cables to carb, self explanatory.
All set and done.
Outcome was pretty bad. Pseudo-turbo lag. 3-4k rpm dark spot. Power builds up after that range. Plug turns pitch black in no time.
Last edited:
Thread Starter
#411
September 2019: Continued - Parts Hunt.
Right away went to Muthoot Yamaha for carb spares.
Valve Assembly (Carb Slide) - 21C-14340-00 - ₹ 1,570.00 (Last time it was ₹ 1,425.00)
Made in Japan. Euphoric effect, reduces the shock of the hefty price.
Carburettor Diaphragm - 21C-14545-00 - ₹ 870.00
Again made in Japan.
The euphoria disappeared as soon as brain kicked in. ₹ 2440.00, almost half the price of the Yamaha carb or could have bought a Pulsar 180 carb for this much money. Many of the FZs are running on Pulsar carbs recommended by local mechanics. They offer great mileage, but lacks the performance.
Right away went to Muthoot Yamaha for carb spares.
Valve Assembly (Carb Slide) - 21C-14340-00 - ₹ 1,570.00 (Last time it was ₹ 1,425.00)
Made in Japan. Euphoric effect, reduces the shock of the hefty price.
Carburettor Diaphragm - 21C-14545-00 - ₹ 870.00
Again made in Japan.
The euphoria disappeared as soon as brain kicked in. ₹ 2440.00, almost half the price of the Yamaha carb or could have bought a Pulsar 180 carb for this much money. Many of the FZs are running on Pulsar carbs recommended by local mechanics. They offer great mileage, but lacks the performance.
Thread Starter
#412
September 2019: Continued - Carb overhaul, again.
Removed the carb.
Top comes off with just two screws.
Caution, it's spring loaded.
The whole slider.
Diaphragm is secured with a plastic ring, which can be removed easily.
Diaphragm came off easily.
Slide with needle.
Needle is secured with a plate and 2 flat head screws, again there is a spring between the plate.
Needle, plate, screws, spring and washer.
Removing the AFR screw.
Bowl removed and then the drain screw.
Float and jets.
Needle jet. Can be removed with flat head as well as hex or spanner.
Pilot jet sits inside, can be removed with a small flat head.
Both jets.
That star screw holds the float and float pin.
Removed them as well.
Float pin.
Again, Wurth Cleaner. It was better than the 3M. It cleaned both inside and out without much effort. Even cleaned off some muck on engine case with that![[lol]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Laugh.gif "Laugh [lol]")
I cleaned my carb 2-3 times and @varunkumar2910 cleaned his carb and another one. Worth the money.
Carb dissection. Cleaned thoroughly inside out.
Needle jet size 112.5. Square on top indicates its Mikuni.
Pilot jet size 15.
Removed the carb.
Top comes off with just two screws.
Caution, it's spring loaded.
The whole slider.
Diaphragm is secured with a plastic ring, which can be removed easily.
Diaphragm came off easily.
Slide with needle.
Needle is secured with a plate and 2 flat head screws, again there is a spring between the plate.
Needle, plate, screws, spring and washer.
Removing the AFR screw.
Bowl removed and then the drain screw.
Float and jets.
Needle jet. Can be removed with flat head as well as hex or spanner.
Pilot jet sits inside, can be removed with a small flat head.
Both jets.
That star screw holds the float and float pin.
Removed them as well.
Float pin.
Again, Wurth Cleaner. It was better than the 3M. It cleaned both inside and out without much effort. Even cleaned off some muck on engine case with that
I cleaned my carb 2-3 times and @varunkumar2910 cleaned his carb and another one. Worth the money.
Carb dissection. Cleaned thoroughly inside out.
Needle jet size 112.5. Square on top indicates its Mikuni.
Pilot jet size 15.
Thread Starter
#413
Carb slides - old vs. new.
Diaphragm, old vs. new.
Old one is stretched.
Diaphragm installed. The notch should match with the hole.
Secured with clip.
Needle. See the circlip and slots on top. They got three settings as well. Top one is the leanest.
Assembling back. The notch should match the hole.
Then the spring.
Then plate and screw.
Shouldn't over-tighten the screws.
Goes in the carb. Again there is a notch to match.
Check free movement of the slider, again after installing the top and spring.
Next the butterfly. It was getting stuck in this position. Loosened the nut a bit and it freed up.
TPS sensor.
TPS sensor position. Lubed a bit for free movement.
Installed TPS. Even that is secured by Tamperproof Torx.
All set and done.
Something Royal Enfield should learn first. Almost 10-year-old rubber hose. RE hoses cracks every now and then.
Installed and ready to go.
Assembled back.
Diaphragm, old vs. new.
Old one is stretched.
Diaphragm installed. The notch should match with the hole.
Secured with clip.
Needle. See the circlip and slots on top. They got three settings as well. Top one is the leanest.
Assembling back. The notch should match the hole.
Then the spring.
Then plate and screw.
Shouldn't over-tighten the screws.
Goes in the carb. Again there is a notch to match.
Check free movement of the slider, again after installing the top and spring.
Next the butterfly. It was getting stuck in this position. Loosened the nut a bit and it freed up.
TPS sensor.
TPS sensor position. Lubed a bit for free movement.
Installed TPS. Even that is secured by Tamperproof Torx.
All set and done.
Something Royal Enfield should learn first. Almost 10-year-old rubber hose. RE hoses cracks every now and then.
Installed and ready to go.
Assembled back.
Thread Starter
#414
September 2019: Continued - More troubleshooting.
Still symptoms persisted, so decided to check the tank as well for any dirt or water, because a friend came across similar scene. Ran till rank was almost empty.
Drained rest of the petrol. No water or mud.
Bowl can be removed with 10 mm spanner. Barricade came from factory with inbuilt fuel filter. At one of the services asked them to change the filter and they changed the whole fuel tap instead. Later FZs came with fuel tap without fuel filter.
Some dirt settled as well.
Cleaned with a simple spray of carb cleaner.
Fuel tap secured with two bolts, head of one was already gone. I prefered hex bolt or Allen bolt in this location, too tight for a bigger screwdriver.
Fuel tap itself if kind of a filter with mesh through its length.
Tank was clean, only some deposition where the tap sat.
Fuel tap was UCAL make.
Installed back everything. Nothing solved.
Still symptoms persisted, so decided to check the tank as well for any dirt or water, because a friend came across similar scene. Ran till rank was almost empty.
Drained rest of the petrol. No water or mud.
Bowl can be removed with 10 mm spanner. Barricade came from factory with inbuilt fuel filter. At one of the services asked them to change the filter and they changed the whole fuel tap instead. Later FZs came with fuel tap without fuel filter.
Some dirt settled as well.
Cleaned with a simple spray of carb cleaner.
Fuel tap secured with two bolts, head of one was already gone. I prefered hex bolt or Allen bolt in this location, too tight for a bigger screwdriver.
Fuel tap itself if kind of a filter with mesh through its length.
Tank was clean, only some deposition where the tap sat.
Fuel tap was UCAL make.
Installed back everything. Nothing solved.
Last edited:
Thread Starter
#415
September 2019: More self treatment and finally a doctor
With no cure, continued with standard procedure of further troubleshooting.
Checking proper grounding.
Bolt that held the ground against engine casing.
Battery negative terminal checked and cleaned both as well.
Checked ignition coil using multimeter. Resistance was near recommended range, but with no room with small values grew suspicious on that as well. Luckily got from the neighborhood store, Spark Automobiles and wasn't costly as the carb parts.
Ignition Coil Assembly - 21C-H2310-00 - ₹ 249.00
MORIC brand (which is Yamaha's own electric parts subsidiary).
Also bought the spark plug cap. Never changed it as well.
Plug Cap Assembly - 20P-H2370-02 - ₹ 75.00
With plug adapter installed.
Didn't click install pics, turned psycho by now![[gun]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Guns.gif "Guns [gun]")
Condition of plug after a spin. What would be the condition of engine head by now![[confused]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Confused.gif "Confused [confused]")
Had enough, thought of consulting the mechanic. Didn't want to go to SVC. Rider's Garage was too far. There was a veteran mechanic nearby, asked old RX guys for their opinion and they were very positive about him. His name was Yamaha Rajendran, KR Motors, near Maruthankuzhi. A repair than replace kind of guy. Consulted him, explained the issues and what all I did. He took for a test ride and came back and gave me the shock, carb is dead and no way than replacing. He showed me a couple of FZs parked at a corner with dead carbs rotting, which owners never came for because of the cost of the carb assembly. He said my carb is still working better comparing the condition of what he usually sees, way better. Asked him which one to buy, single cable or twin cable and he recommended single cable version only (though everyone else recommended going for twin cable version, which was also cheaper by more than a thousand rupees).
Moral: Too much of self treatment is injurious to health, consult a doctor.
With no cure, continued with standard procedure of further troubleshooting.
Checking proper grounding.
Bolt that held the ground against engine casing.
Battery negative terminal checked and cleaned both as well.
Checked ignition coil using multimeter. Resistance was near recommended range, but with no room with small values grew suspicious on that as well. Luckily got from the neighborhood store, Spark Automobiles and wasn't costly as the carb parts.
Ignition Coil Assembly - 21C-H2310-00 - ₹ 249.00
MORIC brand (which is Yamaha's own electric parts subsidiary).
Also bought the spark plug cap. Never changed it as well.
Plug Cap Assembly - 20P-H2370-02 - ₹ 75.00
With plug adapter installed.
Didn't click install pics, turned psycho by now
Condition of plug after a spin. What would be the condition of engine head by now
Had enough, thought of consulting the mechanic. Didn't want to go to SVC. Rider's Garage was too far. There was a veteran mechanic nearby, asked old RX guys for their opinion and they were very positive about him. His name was Yamaha Rajendran, KR Motors, near Maruthankuzhi. A repair than replace kind of guy. Consulted him, explained the issues and what all I did. He took for a test ride and came back and gave me the shock, carb is dead and no way than replacing. He showed me a couple of FZs parked at a corner with dead carbs rotting, which owners never came for because of the cost of the carb assembly. He said my carb is still working better comparing the condition of what he usually sees, way better. Asked him which one to buy, single cable or twin cable and he recommended single cable version only (though everyone else recommended going for twin cable version, which was also cheaper by more than a thousand rupees).
Moral: Too much of self treatment is injurious to health, consult a doctor.
Thread Starter
#416
September 2019: Continued - New carburetor
Finally bought new carb. It was available ready stock at Muthoot Yamaha Spares, Killipalam. These guys never let me down.
Carburettor Assembly - 21C-E4901-30 - ₹ 5,227.00
Cost was almost twice that of Pulsar series (not NS/AS series).
Comes from second series of FZ v1. Made in India. Final version was twin cabled.
Also got new fuel cock. Previous one was changed in 2012.
Made by UCAL
Petrol Hose with Clips - ₹ 20.00. Bought this one just for the clips, but eventually used it.
Half meter of black as well, ₹ 20.00.
Started assembly. The choke parts.
Met the first roadblock. Cable was different. Needed the longer one.
Called up my friend Sunjay, who is a long-term silent TAI reader, to call up the Yamaha spare distributor, Moto Wheels, whom he is acquainted of to get the part number. Manager there is Nikhil George, who is a very knowledgeable and helpful guy. He has arranged spares for many FZians in out Facebook FZ community. Didn't know him personally, so bumped Sunjay for this. Got the part number from him instantly. Again, the neighborhood guy had stock, the Spark Automobiles.
Accelerator Cable - 21C-F6311-10 - ₹ 230.00
It was ₹ 15 cheaper than my previous version.
Thought adding a fuel filter wound be a better idea and got from them as well. It was MICO Bosch one for Hero Hondas.
Fuel Filter - MICO Bosch F002H20218-8F8 - ₹ 18.00
Old and new part numbers.
New one is longer by an inch.
Decided to install fuel tap first. Drained again.
Old versus new. New one is shorter. Factory fitted one has similar dimension.
Had O-ring with it. Forgot to buy silicone grease.
Installed it. Removed tank this time.
Removed fuel float and cleaned them as well. They act weird in most of the FZs. After cleaning, it blinks a bar even when it hit reserve. Before, it was no bar when there was at least a liter to reserve. Also it used to show only 4 bars with full tank. After cleaning, it shows 5 bars.
Again rain god cheated.
New vs old carb. Think Yamaha added bigger throttle lever for better leverage. Heard some of the the earlier FZ owners complaining of wrist pain with tight throttle.
Breather and drain tubes came attached with it. Breather tube was missing in mine. I remember the other end connected over top of air filter cover, but it went missing at some of the workshop visits, don't remember when.
New carb with fuel filter installed.
Now everything solved and working perfect. First starting was troublesome, had to push start. Didn't mess with factory setting, let it be. It's a bit lean. No drop in performance. Mileage tested was 40-42 kmpl range. Still hits factory claimed 109 kmph.
Total damage for the carb DIY.
Accelerator Cable - 21C-F6311-00 - ₹ 245.00
Accelerator Cable - 21C-F6311-10 - ₹ 230.00
Carburetor Assembly - 21C-E4901-30 - ₹ 5,227.00
Carburetor Diaphragm - 21C-14545-00 - ₹ 870.00
Choke Cable - 21C-F6331-01 - ₹ 115.00
Fuel Cock Assembly - 21C-F4500-20 - ₹ 220.00
Fuel Filter - Bosch F002H20218-8F8 - ₹ 20.00
Ignition Coil Assembly - 21C-H2310-00 - ₹ 249.00
Petrol Hose - ₹ 20.00
Petrol Hose with Clips - ₹ 20.00
Plug Cap Assembly - 20P-H2370-02 - ₹ 75.00
Valve Assembly (Carb Slide) - 21C-14340-00 - ₹ 1,570.00
Total - ₹ 8,861.00 out of which ₹ 2685.00 went down the drain for the carb slide and diaphragm and old version throttle cable. Plus a can of Wurth carb cleaner worth ₹ 350.00.
When I gave it to Rider's Garage a year back, he asked to change the carb as well. I tried cleaning and it worked well for a year. Symptoms of carb issue face then was similar to the current ones.
1. Lag in low rpm.
2. Check engine light glowing when maintaining or stuck at the end-of-lag rpm, say around 4k rpm.
3. Check engine glowing at 6k rpm.
4. Thick black soot on spark plug.
Finally bought new carb. It was available ready stock at Muthoot Yamaha Spares, Killipalam. These guys never let me down.
Carburettor Assembly - 21C-E4901-30 - ₹ 5,227.00
Cost was almost twice that of Pulsar series (not NS/AS series).
Comes from second series of FZ v1. Made in India. Final version was twin cabled.
Also got new fuel cock. Previous one was changed in 2012.
Made by UCAL
Petrol Hose with Clips - ₹ 20.00. Bought this one just for the clips, but eventually used it.
Half meter of black as well, ₹ 20.00.
Started assembly. The choke parts.
Met the first roadblock. Cable was different. Needed the longer one.
Called up my friend Sunjay, who is a long-term silent TAI reader, to call up the Yamaha spare distributor, Moto Wheels, whom he is acquainted of to get the part number. Manager there is Nikhil George, who is a very knowledgeable and helpful guy. He has arranged spares for many FZians in out Facebook FZ community. Didn't know him personally, so bumped Sunjay for this. Got the part number from him instantly. Again, the neighborhood guy had stock, the Spark Automobiles.
Accelerator Cable - 21C-F6311-10 - ₹ 230.00
It was ₹ 15 cheaper than my previous version.
Thought adding a fuel filter wound be a better idea and got from them as well. It was MICO Bosch one for Hero Hondas.
Fuel Filter - MICO Bosch F002H20218-8F8 - ₹ 18.00
Old and new part numbers.
New one is longer by an inch.
Decided to install fuel tap first. Drained again.
Old versus new. New one is shorter. Factory fitted one has similar dimension.
Had O-ring with it. Forgot to buy silicone grease.
Installed it. Removed tank this time.
Removed fuel float and cleaned them as well. They act weird in most of the FZs. After cleaning, it blinks a bar even when it hit reserve. Before, it was no bar when there was at least a liter to reserve. Also it used to show only 4 bars with full tank. After cleaning, it shows 5 bars.
Again rain god cheated.
New vs old carb. Think Yamaha added bigger throttle lever for better leverage. Heard some of the the earlier FZ owners complaining of wrist pain with tight throttle.
Breather and drain tubes came attached with it. Breather tube was missing in mine. I remember the other end connected over top of air filter cover, but it went missing at some of the workshop visits, don't remember when.
New carb with fuel filter installed.
Now everything solved and working perfect. First starting was troublesome, had to push start. Didn't mess with factory setting, let it be. It's a bit lean. No drop in performance. Mileage tested was 40-42 kmpl range. Still hits factory claimed 109 kmph.
Total damage for the carb DIY.
Accelerator Cable - 21C-F6311-00 - ₹ 245.00
Accelerator Cable - 21C-F6311-10 - ₹ 230.00
Carburetor Assembly - 21C-E4901-30 - ₹ 5,227.00
Carburetor Diaphragm - 21C-14545-00 - ₹ 870.00
Choke Cable - 21C-F6331-01 - ₹ 115.00
Fuel Cock Assembly - 21C-F4500-20 - ₹ 220.00
Fuel Filter - Bosch F002H20218-8F8 - ₹ 20.00
Ignition Coil Assembly - 21C-H2310-00 - ₹ 249.00
Petrol Hose - ₹ 20.00
Petrol Hose with Clips - ₹ 20.00
Plug Cap Assembly - 20P-H2370-02 - ₹ 75.00
Valve Assembly (Carb Slide) - 21C-14340-00 - ₹ 1,570.00
Total - ₹ 8,861.00 out of which ₹ 2685.00 went down the drain for the carb slide and diaphragm and old version throttle cable. Plus a can of Wurth carb cleaner worth ₹ 350.00.
When I gave it to Rider's Garage a year back, he asked to change the carb as well. I tried cleaning and it worked well for a year. Symptoms of carb issue face then was similar to the current ones.
1. Lag in low rpm.
2. Check engine light glowing when maintaining or stuck at the end-of-lag rpm, say around 4k rpm.
3. Check engine glowing at 6k rpm.
4. Thick black soot on spark plug.
Last edited:
Thread Starter
#417
September 2019: New Sparkplug
Bought this in between my fight with carb, but didn't install fearing damage from carbon. Replaced it along with carb. My favorite plug. Fit it, forget it.
NGK G-Power CPR8EAGP-9 - ₹ 230.00 (MRP ₹ 238.00)
Bought this in between my fight with carb, but didn't install fearing damage from carbon. Replaced it along with carb. My favorite plug. Fit it, forget it.
NGK G-Power CPR8EAGP-9 - ₹ 230.00 (MRP ₹ 238.00)
Thread Starter
#418
September 2019: Continued - More brake parts
Replacement for parts found damaged during caliper overhaul and brake hose replacement were procured.
Master Cylinder Repair Kit - 5USW00410000 - ₹ 190.00
Contains every parts for the master cylinder except the diaphragm and cover.
Piston.
Pivot pin, spring and boot.
Circlip.
Piston spring.
Caliper Pin - 5USF574400 - ₹ 33.00
Think I am the first one to buy this from there.
Caliper Pin Clips = 5US-W0016-00 - ₹ 10.00/each
Just because one of these was lost, I had to buy duplicate caliper pin kit, which was an eyesore with split pin dangling. Even this had to be searched in the scrap left in the parts bin.
Yamalube Brake Fluid BF-4 - 10090793-38037 - ₹ 150.00
Bought a can from Yamaha spare, only after reaching home checked the price. Another shocking surprise. Usual brake fluids costs ₹ 35-50 for 100 ml. Yamalube one was priced 3-4 times normal ones. Yamalube full synthetic oil and fork oil are damn cheaper, but this gave a true shock.
Made in Japan = Truck load of euphoria
Whole thing was printed in Japanese with translation stuck on by Yamaha India.
Bleed Screw Kit - 5US-W0048-00 - ₹ 27.00
Replacement for parts found damaged during caliper overhaul and brake hose replacement were procured.
Master Cylinder Repair Kit - 5USW00410000 - ₹ 190.00
Contains every parts for the master cylinder except the diaphragm and cover.
Piston.
Pivot pin, spring and boot.
Circlip.
Piston spring.
Caliper Pin - 5USF574400 - ₹ 33.00
Think I am the first one to buy this from there.
Caliper Pin Clips = 5US-W0016-00 - ₹ 10.00/each
Just because one of these was lost, I had to buy duplicate caliper pin kit, which was an eyesore with split pin dangling. Even this had to be searched in the scrap left in the parts bin.
Yamalube Brake Fluid BF-4 - 10090793-38037 - ₹ 150.00
Bought a can from Yamaha spare, only after reaching home checked the price. Another shocking surprise. Usual brake fluids costs ₹ 35-50 for 100 ml. Yamalube one was priced 3-4 times normal ones. Yamalube full synthetic oil and fork oil are damn cheaper, but this gave a true shock.
Made in Japan = Truck load of euphoria
Whole thing was printed in Japanese with translation stuck on by Yamaha India.
Bleed Screw Kit - 5US-W0048-00 - ₹ 27.00
Now I can see this happening.
Thread Starter
#420
Liked that ![[cheers]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Cheers.gif "Cheers [cheers]")
Indeed I have changed number plates a couple of times
Indeed I have changed number plates a couple of times