Can we say that quality of the parts used by TATAs has gone for a toss in lieu of number features offered by them?
Tata Nexon Ownership Review: Living The Nexon Life
- Thread Starter mayankdixit
- Start date
Thread Starter
#872
No,not at all. I can't blame tata because it's my fault. I was repeatedly using boring water for washing and pointing the water jet at the rotors to clean up the black dust off . This type of rust can be seen in other brands too.
Tata and mahindra are 100times more ethical than maruti. I have owned 3 different maruti cars in last 15years. So I know what I am saying. Tata has used the best parts in their nexon sourced from reputed vendors. And I have inspected by going under the car many times.And every time I come out impressed!!
Tata and mahindra are 100times more ethical than maruti. I have owned 3 different maruti cars in last 15years. So I know what I am saying. Tata has used the best parts in their nexon sourced from reputed vendors. And I have inspected by going under the car many times.And every time I come out impressed!!
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Pls wait, I will write why I am against to sanding and painting. If you want it must be resurfaced on the l lathe machine and can be painted but not this paint. Having severe migraine could not concentrate on anything.
Thread Starter
#874
Try Tab.Pacimol Active + stemetil M.D (tablet) with a glass of water . If needed this can be repeated every 8 hours. You will be alright.
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Thread Starter
#875
Well I removed the rust from the rotors today. It took a lot of time and effort, as there is no space to work in the wheel well. Moreover fingers get hurt if one is not careful with the sanding process. Anyway it gave me lot of satisfaction while working on the rotor. And satisfaction is very precious to me, mind you.
One might be not satisfied with a Mercedes, and on the other hand one might be totally satisfied with an Alto! And I believe in that case Alto owner has actually attained nirvana! So satisfaction is a relative term you see. So coming back to the topic, removing the rust myself gave me immense satisfaction, and now I will be looking forward towards painting the rotor next.
Before sanding
After sanding
Hoping it will help somebody at least !
One might be not satisfied with a Mercedes, and on the other hand one might be totally satisfied with an Alto! And I believe in that case Alto owner has actually attained nirvana! So satisfaction is a relative term you see. So coming back to the topic, removing the rust myself gave me immense satisfaction, and now I will be looking forward towards painting the rotor next.
Before sanding
After sanding
Hoping it will help somebody at least !
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Thats a very thorough Job! What have you used for sanding?
Thread Starter
#877
Thanks for the compliment.
I used manual UXCELL silicone carbide sandpaper 711C.
I used manual UXCELL silicone carbide sandpaper 711C.
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@mayankdixit, I hope you left the car on jack stands, you can use heat resistance transparent spray because keeping the car on stands for extended hours not good. We discuss leftover things later. Thanks for your medical advice my migraine is fading away.
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Thread Starter
#879
1) I always use jack stands. I have 4 of them. The red coloured one is the jack stand if you scroll back to my last set of pics.
2) You are welcome.
2) You are welcome.
I am talking about Jack Stands only. Maximum allowed time car should be on jack stands is one hour only.
Thread Starter
#881
Where have you heard this thing??
Is it mentioned somewhere ,on a jack stand itself or in a manual or something?? Please clarify!!
There's a difference between a jack and a jack stand. I've often left my cars on jack stands for days, but never on a jack.
Actually regardless of type, a jack is prone to failure: they are designed to raise and lower, not to hold for long .
A jack stand on the other hand is a solid piece of metal and is designed to hold. Provided the car is on level ground and wt. is evenly distributed.
How can you work ,all your work, in one hour only?
How can anybody (all over the world) complete a DIY in limited span of 1 hour only?
What do you recommend if not a jack stand then, if one wants to work on a car ??
Is it mentioned somewhere ,on a jack stand itself or in a manual or something?? Please clarify!!
There's a difference between a jack and a jack stand. I've often left my cars on jack stands for days, but never on a jack.
Actually regardless of type, a jack is prone to failure: they are designed to raise and lower, not to hold for long .
A jack stand on the other hand is a solid piece of metal and is designed to hold. Provided the car is on level ground and wt. is evenly distributed.
How can you work ,all your work, in one hour only?
How can anybody (all over the world) complete a DIY in limited span of 1 hour only?
What do you recommend if not a jack stand then, if one wants to work on a car ??
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As you own, I too own 2.5 to 3.5 tonne Floor jacks and different kinds of rubber enforced jack stands. If you want to keep you car on jack stands you should by Rubber enforced Ramp often you see in the workshops. Somewhere this mentioned in Engine builder magazine.
Longest work is clutch overhaul that too as per service manual 1.25 hours and suggested to use ramp only.
One can buy Rubber enforced Jack stands as a standard equipment alternative to ramp.
Longest work is clutch overhaul that too as per service manual 1.25 hours and suggested to use ramp only.
One can buy Rubber enforced Jack stands as a standard equipment alternative to ramp.
Attachments
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Thread Starter
#883
Finished the right side rotor painting too.
All satisfied and good to go for years to come, hopefully. If not then well, maybe ,at least I got to do it my way!
Left front rotor after final touch
All satisfied and good to go for years to come, hopefully. If not then well, maybe ,at least I got to do it my way!
Left front rotor after final touch
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Thread Starter
#884
DIY Changing fuel filter (diesel filter) of my Nexon.
Recent problems I was facing with my Nexon:
1) jerky acceleration and 2)stalling on inclines. 3) poor average.
After ruling out other factors, I zeroed it down to the possibility of clogged fuel filter. It was never changed in past services.
I had to take out the whole assembly but it was more difficult as there are many sensors attached the the filter.
Filter was moderately dirty. The O ring was damaged at many places. I changes the O-ring as it came with the new filter.
I cleaned up and dried the filter casing as the inside was having some dirt and water particles/drops.
This is the water sensor attached to the base of filter.
New and old filter side by side.
Diesel the came out of the old filter assembly. I cant make out water contamination here.
The sensor and socket attachment is very tricky as the wires have to be attached in exact same order, otherwise it wont work, and CEL will come.
After refitting the whole assembly and attaching the sensors
Recent problems I was facing with my Nexon:
1) jerky acceleration and 2)stalling on inclines. 3) poor average.
After ruling out other factors, I zeroed it down to the possibility of clogged fuel filter. It was never changed in past services.
I had to take out the whole assembly but it was more difficult as there are many sensors attached the the filter.
Filter was moderately dirty. The O ring was damaged at many places. I changes the O-ring as it came with the new filter.
I cleaned up and dried the filter casing as the inside was having some dirt and water particles/drops.
This is the water sensor attached to the base of filter.
New and old filter side by side.
Diesel the came out of the old filter assembly. I cant make out water contamination here.
The sensor and socket attachment is very tricky as the wires have to be attached in exact same order, otherwise it wont work, and CEL will come.
After refitting the whole assembly and attaching the sensors
Attachments
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Thread Starter
#885
After changing the fuel filter the above mentioned complaints were solved. I will measure the average over the coming month to double confirm. Some pics I wanted to share.
The filter housing is DELPHI-TVS brand
Arrow marks point to the direction of diesel flow. One has to be careful while putting back the fuel lines, lest the wrong attachments ruin the DIY.
Some tools used in opening the filter
This orange coloured gasket is the O ring I was talking about. Always put in new while reassembly is done, otherwise diesel leaks from here. It should be snug fit on the filter casing.
Most important part in this DIY is the last part which is air bleeding/Removal of air from the fuel lines.
There is a plunger provided just for this purpose in the engine bay. Keep pressing/plunging the fuel pumping piston till fresh fuel comes out of the fuel lines. Only then put back the fuel pipes. If this is not followed properly air will remain in the fuel line resulting in CEL on starting the car. Car may not even start, if there is not enough pressure in the common rail, because of air in the fuel pipe.
The filter housing is DELPHI-TVS brand
Arrow marks point to the direction of diesel flow. One has to be careful while putting back the fuel lines, lest the wrong attachments ruin the DIY.
Some tools used in opening the filter
This orange coloured gasket is the O ring I was talking about. Always put in new while reassembly is done, otherwise diesel leaks from here. It should be snug fit on the filter casing.
Most important part in this DIY is the last part which is air bleeding/Removal of air from the fuel lines.
There is a plunger provided just for this purpose in the engine bay. Keep pressing/plunging the fuel pumping piston till fresh fuel comes out of the fuel lines. Only then put back the fuel pipes. If this is not followed properly air will remain in the fuel line resulting in CEL on starting the car. Car may not even start, if there is not enough pressure in the common rail, because of air in the fuel pipe.
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