Thread Starter
#16
Royal Enfield 350 Electra 2008: Restoration and Upgrades
- Thread Starter Ilangop
- Start date
Thread Starter
#17
Wiring harness upgrade
The 2 day weekend gave us some time to crawl a little ahead. Plated and buffed parts have arrived.
Deciphering the Bajaj Pulsar wiring harness and matching it for Bullet was fun.
Yes, this Electra is going to have the illuminated switch console, Indicator auto cut-off sensor, BCU & wiring harness of P220 without damaging its classic looks.
Also the rectifier is being replaced with Bajaj GC1000 rectifier unit for having a Battery charge warning lamp.
Attached are some pictures of the new standard size cylinder & piston, Wiring harness testing in progress, & the plated parts. We were told that in place of the 3rd single ring
a 3 ring arrangement has been the latest update in the market & we went for it.
Guys, has someone fitted an oil pressure switch like in a car? The last picture is of a bullet which has one. It was parked somewhere near a shop and the owner wasn't seen there.
The 2 day weekend gave us some time to crawl a little ahead. Plated and buffed parts have arrived.
Deciphering the Bajaj Pulsar wiring harness and matching it for Bullet was fun.
Yes, this Electra is going to have the illuminated switch console, Indicator auto cut-off sensor, BCU & wiring harness of P220 without damaging its classic looks.
Also the rectifier is being replaced with Bajaj GC1000 rectifier unit for having a Battery charge warning lamp.
Attached are some pictures of the new standard size cylinder & piston, Wiring harness testing in progress, & the plated parts. We were told that in place of the 3rd single ring
a 3 ring arrangement has been the latest update in the market & we went for it.
Guys, has someone fitted an oil pressure switch like in a car? The last picture is of a bullet which has one. It was parked somewhere near a shop and the owner wasn't seen there.
Attachments
Re: Fuel Sender for Bullet 350 / Electra
Kudos to you. Curiously following this thread and eagerly awaiting updates (and that's one of the reasons I joined the forum). Just a few queries
1. Are you planning to calibrate the fuel sender? Granted that the gauge & the sender belong to Bajaj CT100 (or are they different) but considering that the size of the tank differs, doesn't it need recalibration ?
2. If you're planning to retrofit the pulsar's console, doesn't it have an LCD fuel level indicator? Planning to drop the analog gauge & integrate it to the LCD console ?
Cheers & Keep going
Santhosh K
Kudos to you. Curiously following this thread and eagerly awaiting updates (and that's one of the reasons I joined the forum). Just a few queries
1. Are you planning to calibrate the fuel sender? Granted that the gauge & the sender belong to Bajaj CT100 (or are they different) but considering that the size of the tank differs, doesn't it need recalibration ?
2. If you're planning to retrofit the pulsar's console, doesn't it have an LCD fuel level indicator? Planning to drop the analog gauge & integrate it to the LCD console ?
Cheers & Keep going
Santhosh K
Thread Starter
#19
Re: Fuel Sender for Bullet 350 / Electra
1) Calibration would be only adjusting the long arm of the sender unit such that it just touches the floor of the tank at empty & top of the tank volume while at full. This can be done by bending the long arm a little or lengthen or shorten the arm
2) We are not fitting the Pulsar digital console. Please check the 11th post of this thread. We are using the analog meter of Pulsar. As the sender unit measure 100 Ohm end to end be it for Pulsar (Digital / Analog) or CT100, the possibility of mismatch is minimal. Hope this clarifies your doubt.
1) Calibration would be only adjusting the long arm of the sender unit such that it just touches the floor of the tank at empty & top of the tank volume while at full. This can be done by bending the long arm a little or lengthen or shorten the arm
2) We are not fitting the Pulsar digital console. Please check the 11th post of this thread. We are using the analog meter of Pulsar. As the sender unit measure 100 Ohm end to end be it for Pulsar (Digital / Analog) or CT100, the possibility of mismatch is minimal. Hope this clarifies your doubt.
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Re: Fuel Sender for Bullet 350 / Electra
Thanks. That clarifies it. Reason for my queries is that I am planning to add a fuel gauge to my UCE Electra and was thinking of using the sender from Thunderbird. Was also considering a capacitance based fuel sender like this. I was thinking of calibrating the resistance/capacitance levels using a multimeter for various levels & then use this information to either program an LCD/LED using the Arduino kit. My intention is to get as accurate information as possible and hence the endeavour. Thanks again.
Sk
Thanks. That clarifies it. Reason for my queries is that I am planning to add a fuel gauge to my UCE Electra and was thinking of using the sender from Thunderbird. Was also considering a capacitance based fuel sender like this. I was thinking of calibrating the resistance/capacitance levels using a multimeter for various levels & then use this information to either program an LCD/LED using the Arduino kit. My intention is to get as accurate information as possible and hence the endeavour. Thanks again.
Sk
Good to see this thread picking up. Kudos Ilangop![[clap]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Clap.gif "Clap [clap]")
!
I know its only me but I like my Bullets simple and analogue; a step back in time I know, but thats where it belongs, right?
Oh, and that black Bullet needs two circlips on both ends of the air filter hose
; don't forget to put them on your Bullet.
!I know its only me but I like my Bullets simple and analogue; a step back in time I know, but thats where it belongs, right?
Oh, and that black Bullet needs two circlips on both ends of the air filter hose
; don't forget to put them on your Bullet.
Thread Starter
#22
Wiring Harness upgrade
Hi Sam, Thank you. But I am not getting what you mean by putting those circlips. Could you please explain.
Good to see this thread picking up. Kudos Ilangop! ...
Oh, and that black Bullet needs two circlips on both ends of the air filter hose; don't forget to put them on your Bullet.
! ...Oh, and that black Bullet needs two circlips on both ends of the air filter hose
; don't forget to put them on your Bullet.
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This is what I mean Ilangop; please see the circlips marked with blue arrows holding the air filter hose securely.
Attachments
Thread Starter
#24
Re: Fuel Sender for Bullet 350 / Electra
I have just checked your previous work on other forums (team bhp, Xbhp) and I am mighty impressed with the array of DIY work you have done (especially retrofitting other gauges/meters). What's interesting is the modification you have done to existing (in the case of fitting a tacho to car) meter to suit your purpose. I would be very pleased if I can learn something from your vast experience.
Quick query if you don't mind. I went hunting for a tachometer for my bullet (UCE Electra) and none of the automobile shop folks were knowledgeable or even had a separate tacho. A mechanic I know told me that he can fit a tacho if I manage to procure one. I am certain that I will be able to figure out the wiring if I could figure out what tacho to get. ( I have given up the idea of procuring a digital console like Koso or Acewell because of their sheer cost 10K+). Any idea what tacho I should be buying? For now, I plan to fit it in the handlebar.
If I manage to fit a tacho and gain some confidence, I plan to get the modifications done for a fuel sender .
Cheers
Santhosh K
I have just checked your previous work on other forums (team bhp, Xbhp) and I am mighty impressed with the array of DIY work you have done (especially retrofitting other gauges/meters). What's interesting is the modification you have done to existing (in the case of fitting a tacho to car) meter to suit your purpose. I would be very pleased if I can learn something from your vast experience.
Quick query if you don't mind. I went hunting for a tachometer for my bullet (UCE Electra) and none of the automobile shop folks were knowledgeable or even had a separate tacho. A mechanic I know told me that he can fit a tacho if I manage to procure one. I am certain that I will be able to figure out the wiring if I could figure out what tacho to get. ( I have given up the idea of procuring a digital console like Koso or Acewell because of their sheer cost 10K+). Any idea what tacho I should be buying? For now, I plan to fit it in the handlebar.
If I manage to fit a tacho and gain some confidence, I plan to get the modifications done for a fuel sender .
Cheers
Santhosh K
Thread Starter
#26
Tachometer for enfield bullet
Santosh, It has always been a regret that RE 350 does not have a tachometer unlike the thunderbird. And fitting a tacho is more of understanding what it needs. You can go for a tacho used in any other motorcycle like a Pulsar (old models) / Thunderbird / Fiero, etc. You get the tacho with a case for a Thunderbird & Fiero. For Thunderbird fuel guage is a bonus.
If you don't find those, but you can manage to procure a car tachometer for 4/6/8 cylinders still it is possible without any major modifications.
1) Option 1 - Connecting a motorcycle tacho to a bullet (FOR TCI IGNITION ONLY).
These tachometers need 1 pulse per revolution of crankshaft for showing the right reading. Refer to the first figure (Tacho I/p from TCI). A multimeter comes very handy now (if you don't have access to the wiring diagram). One of the wires carries +12V as soon as you key on. You don't need that, or use it to power the tacho with +12V. The other wire goes to kill switch and also to the TCI. This is the signaling port for a single cylinder tahco. Splice this wire a little, tap an extra wire and connect it to the signaling point in the new tacho.
2) Option 2 - A petrol car tacho for bullet.
These tachometers need 2 or 3 or 4 pulses per crank revolution for 4 / 6 / 8 cylinder options. Here you need a little of soldering expertise. Refer to Figure 2. Prepare a single phase bridge rectifier across any of the 2 yellow wires from the stator. Do not add a capacitor after the bridge. The output pulses will have the same frequency as the number of magnetic poles in your maget rotor.
For example you magnet for 4 pole pieces (2 North & 2 South), The output from the diode bridge will have 4 pulses per crank revolution. So set the tachometer for the 8 cylidner option.
What if your generator has 6 poles? The bridge rectified output will have 6 pulses per revolution which corresponds to a 12 cylinder option, which you dont normally find in a low cost car tacho. So, just follow what you see in figure 3 and set the tacho in 3 cylinder mode.
The above explanation is common for any 2 wheeler. You don't need the bridge rectifier if there is already an AC output from your alternator like in a Pulsar UG3 & below. Set the tacho to as many pole-pairs (NOT POLES) as you see in your Magnet.
Santosh, It has always been a regret that RE 350 does not have a tachometer unlike the thunderbird. And fitting a tacho is more of understanding what it needs. You can go for a tacho used in any other motorcycle like a Pulsar (old models) / Thunderbird / Fiero, etc. You get the tacho with a case for a Thunderbird & Fiero. For Thunderbird fuel guage is a bonus.
If you don't find those, but you can manage to procure a car tachometer for 4/6/8 cylinders still it is possible without any major modifications.
1) Option 1 - Connecting a motorcycle tacho to a bullet (FOR TCI IGNITION ONLY).
These tachometers need 1 pulse per revolution of crankshaft for showing the right reading. Refer to the first figure (Tacho I/p from TCI). A multimeter comes very handy now (if you don't have access to the wiring diagram). One of the wires carries +12V as soon as you key on. You don't need that, or use it to power the tacho with +12V. The other wire goes to kill switch and also to the TCI. This is the signaling port for a single cylinder tahco. Splice this wire a little, tap an extra wire and connect it to the signaling point in the new tacho.
2) Option 2 - A petrol car tacho for bullet.
These tachometers need 2 or 3 or 4 pulses per crank revolution for 4 / 6 / 8 cylinder options. Here you need a little of soldering expertise. Refer to Figure 2. Prepare a single phase bridge rectifier across any of the 2 yellow wires from the stator. Do not add a capacitor after the bridge. The output pulses will have the same frequency as the number of magnetic poles in your maget rotor.
For example you magnet for 4 pole pieces (2 North & 2 South), The output from the diode bridge will have 4 pulses per crank revolution. So set the tachometer for the 8 cylidner option.
What if your generator has 6 poles? The bridge rectified output will have 6 pulses per revolution which corresponds to a 12 cylinder option, which you dont normally find in a low cost car tacho. So, just follow what you see in figure 3 and set the tacho in 3 cylinder mode.
The above explanation is common for any 2 wheeler. You don't need the bridge rectifier if there is already an AC output from your alternator like in a Pulsar UG3 & below. Set the tacho to as many pole-pairs (NOT POLES) as you see in your Magnet.
Attachments
Re: Tachometer for enfield bullet
That's very very kind of you. I never would have imagined typing such a detailed explanation. Hats off to you Sir. I am still trying to get my head around Option 2 and it brings me more excitement to think about getting back into fiddling with electronics. I will have to figure out what diode & capacitors to get (think that depends on the tacho I get).
I went tacho hunting today and couldn't find a tacho from Bajaj without the instrument cluster. I will check for Thunderbird's old instrument cluster tomorrow and will try again for Bajaj's spares in Chennai in the next few days. If that doesn't work out, will go with car's tacho.
Again,I cannot thank you enough for the detailed explanation.
Cheers
Santhosh K
That's very very kind of you. I never would have imagined typing such a detailed explanation. Hats off to you Sir. I am still trying to get my head around Option 2 and it brings me more excitement to think about getting back into fiddling with electronics. I will have to figure out what diode & capacitors to get (think that depends on the tacho I get).
I went tacho hunting today and couldn't find a tacho from Bajaj without the instrument cluster. I will check for Thunderbird's old instrument cluster tomorrow and will try again for Bajaj's spares in Chennai in the next few days. If that doesn't work out, will go with car's tacho.
Again,I cannot thank you enough for the detailed explanation.
Cheers
Santhosh K
Ilangop, please post this tacho installation with more details in the DIY section.
Thread Starter
#29
Enfield Bullet Tacho signal Options
Welcome Santosh, 1N4007 Diodes can do your job as there is hardly any current needed to drive the tacho. You should not install a capacitor because it will smoothen out the ripples and send a DC signal to tacho, which the tacho will understand as Engine off![[;)]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Wink.gif "Wink [;)]")
. Ask for tacho for P150 old type, not the digital one. Are you planning to install one in your UCE?
Yes I'll, after I finalize which option I shall be finalizing in this project.
Also today I would like to disclose option 3 which I tried yesterday, but again I will have to wait till the engine is bolted on to the chassis frame and started.
As I had the stator plate in hand, I was just curious to know how well option 3 can work. With this, there is no need for diodes and rectifiers.
Purchased 10 meters of 27 gauge varnished copper wire and started winding around over and above the existing stator coils. The Electra has a 12 pole – 3 phase alternator. Which means every 3rd coil is of the same phase. One can simple start winding from any convenient place. Just note that the all windngs need to be of the same orientation – means if you had started clockwise, then retain the same convention for other 3 coils also. Solder 1 end of the new copper wire to body ground at the ting clamp that holds the bunch of yellow wires exiting the startor. Luckily there was a small hole in this clamp, into which I had inserted 1 end of copper wire and soldered.
Again, Luck was on my side. The rubber grommet had an unused extra hole through which I had inserted this thin blue wire (as seen in the picture) and routed it into the black sleeve. This was soldered to the free end of the new copper wire, and secured it with a rubber sleeve. Some Araldite was poured over the coils and the sleeve so that they don’t move or dislodged while dipped in oil and the magneto spins.
Time for some physics… As the 6 pole generator of the engine spins, there will be 3 complete waves appearing at the blue wire. I plan to feed this into the tachometer while setting it to 6 cylinder mode. Also a parallel wire will be tapped from here and passed on to the Bajaj Pulsar BCU, so that it does not turn off the hedlamp after 5 – 10 seconds.
Welcome Santosh, 1N4007 Diodes can do your job as there is hardly any current needed to drive the tacho. You should not install a capacitor because it will smoothen out the ripples and send a DC signal to tacho, which the tacho will understand as Engine off
. Ask for tacho for P150 old type, not the digital one. Are you planning to install one in your UCE? Yes I'll, after I finalize which option I shall be finalizing in this project.
Also today I would like to disclose option 3 which I tried yesterday, but again I will have to wait till the engine is bolted on to the chassis frame and started.
As I had the stator plate in hand, I was just curious to know how well option 3 can work. With this, there is no need for diodes and rectifiers.
Purchased 10 meters of 27 gauge varnished copper wire and started winding around over and above the existing stator coils. The Electra has a 12 pole – 3 phase alternator. Which means every 3rd coil is of the same phase. One can simple start winding from any convenient place. Just note that the all windngs need to be of the same orientation – means if you had started clockwise, then retain the same convention for other 3 coils also. Solder 1 end of the new copper wire to body ground at the ting clamp that holds the bunch of yellow wires exiting the startor. Luckily there was a small hole in this clamp, into which I had inserted 1 end of copper wire and soldered.
Again, Luck was on my side. The rubber grommet had an unused extra hole through which I had inserted this thin blue wire (as seen in the picture) and routed it into the black sleeve. This was soldered to the free end of the new copper wire, and secured it with a rubber sleeve. Some Araldite was poured over the coils and the sleeve so that they don’t move or dislodged while dipped in oil and the magneto spins.
Time for some physics… As the 6 pole generator of the engine spins, there will be 3 complete waves appearing at the blue wire. I plan to feed this into the tachometer while setting it to 6 cylinder mode. Also a parallel wire will be tapped from here and passed on to the Bajaj Pulsar BCU, so that it does not turn off the hedlamp after 5 – 10 seconds.
Attachments
Re: Enfield Bullet Tacho signal Options
Yes Sir. Been waiting for the warranty to end to finally try installing a tacho and a fuel gauge. I wish Royal enfield would add a tacho and fuel gauge to all their models (How hard is it for them as a company to fix a digital speedo with tacho and get rid of the amp meter and add a fuel gauge. It will still retain the looks.) I was seriously considering an Acewell Speedometer which is a thing of beauty but , too expensive.
That's a brilliant idea and very neat explanation. Just curious. When selecting a 27 gauge copper wire, did you try & match the gauge of wire in the existing coil ? And how many windings are necessary? I haven't checked my coil yet and hope to during the tacho installation.
Who knows, I am so excited about your progress that once you are done, I am inclined to copy whatever you 're doing to my UCE electra (if it doesnt spoil the looks of course)
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers
Santhosh K
Welcome Santosh, 1N4007 Diodes can do your job as there is hardly any current needed to drive the tacho. You should not install a capacitor because it will smoothen out the ripples and send a DC signal to tacho, which the tacho will understand as Engine off . Ask for tacho for P150 old type, not the digital one. Are you planning to install one in your UCE? .
. Ask for tacho for P150 old type, not the digital one. Are you planning to install one in your UCE? .
That's a brilliant idea and very neat explanation. Just curious. When selecting a 27 gauge copper wire, did you try & match the gauge of wire in the existing coil ? And how many windings are necessary? I haven't checked my coil yet and hope to during the tacho installation.
Who knows, I am so excited about your progress that once you are done, I am inclined to copy whatever you 're doing to my UCE electra (if it doesnt spoil the looks of course)
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers
Santhosh K
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