Re: New Force Gurkha 4x4 Test Drive Review
Now that I am a Gurkha owner
Pinch me, Maj saab. And say that again, please. And then pinch me again.
I have been following this thread for some time and though my mind was more or less made up on buying the Gurkha once it became available 3-4 months back, but I must acknowledge that Iron Rock's superb review was amongst the many inputs that helped me take the final call.
Iron Rock would be equally surprised.
Briefly about me - I am ex-army guy who is passionate about the outdoors.
SS/IC commission? Which course/Coy/Sqn?
Having driven capable vehicles in the army, I must say I am very happy with the Gurkha. Especially with it's overall drive quality.
Guess you'd agree that ANYTHING would feel more comfortable after having a go in the Army vehicles. I have driven the ALS/Dhai ton/MM550s and Gypsy; found nothing great about any of them apart from the fact that the Gypsy's petrol engine is quite reliable at high altitudes. Must say the Gurkha's suspension beats 'em all.
- Engine is quite strong and can do gentle inclines(my office parking ramp) even on 2nd gear - in fact I am reminded of a joke that there are only 4 gears on a Gurkha. But I prefer to use the 1st gear - at least everytime it starts from rest/after a halt (at a signal/in traffic).
1st is not needed, really. For all kind of starts, second is usually good enough, provided you can slot it
- The suspension is strong as well - may feel stiff but then it has to be - because it is designed to take a heavier beating. So when you drive over small speed breakers the shock absorbers wont absorb much while a car may have felt comfortable - but when you go over a very bad patch, you'll hardly feel it in a Gurkha where as the softer car suspensions might get seriously damaged.
Affirmative. Suspension is excellent on bad patches. Ride quality ain't too bad on tarmac either. Correct me if I am wrong but the Gurkha now comes with Apollo Apterra HT tyres instead of the AT HAWKZ that Master Iron Rock had the luxury of testing it with.
- Highway driving - On a drive to Bangalore, I felt the cabin shudder at 90km/h - but I am a little old-school so I believe in running-in a new engine in the initial days - so didnt push the engine & stayed south of 90km/h. The owner's manual does talk about driving it at around 85 km/h (on 5th gear & they give speed ranges for other gears as well) but thay suggets that only for first 2000km - I am sure the engine may take much longer to run-in - but I am willing to wait for that to happen.
The TD 2650 FTI is a Grandpa School engine and I am 200% sure that it needs running in; though I am not sure if cabin shudder would get reduced once the engine has run in. But you are right, do run it in properly; 300000 km warranty be damned.
- AC - has been vastly improved - has a thermostat - and in fact at extreme cold setting (of the thermostat) - it does get very cold - hopefully it will be ideal for the sizzling Chennai summers.
This year onwards we will have a 'Automotive Technology Pioneer of the Year' Award and we shall award it to Force Motors for this.
Please check the ac pipe on the top left inner edge of the engine bay near the engine firewall. Is it still bent at ninety degrees?
- Gear shifting was a little difficult initially but it has gotten smoother with use over the last 2000 odd km that I have driven in the last one month.
There is God in this world, after all.
- Brakes tend to 'feel' a tad slow but I think that impression could be because of the ABS.
ABS? Anabolic Sterodis? Abdominals? Albino Black Sheep? (
Albino Blacksheep)
- Some accessories I feel I absolutely needed - Audio sys+speakers+radio antenna, rear camera (cam input connected to the 2DIN audio screen; rear cam very much required as the vehicle is very high & you dont want to injure someone while backing up or bang any vehicle or anything else behind), new horn(ROOTS), new seat covers, central locking.
Be VERY VERY careful about the wiring as your's would probably be the first Gurkha in India that'd get all these things fitted on it and therefore the bumpkin who shall install these thingummies on your Gurkha would be doing it for the very first (last?) time. Monkey with a spanner (in the works?). Also, have you asked the dealer what happens to the warranty once you get these jobs done? Maj saab I wouldn't risk losing my warranty on a Gurkha.
- Things to do/add- Jumper cable (my battery drained the day I fitted the central locking due to a bad-wiring job and then I had to get my vehicle push started
), Rear foot step, Anti-rust coating - am looking for advice on this front - required/not required if yes - then which brand - WURST or 3M.
Why is the rear foor step needed since there are no seats at the rear?
Anti rust coating is a must since the sheet metal of Force vehicles is known to rust so badly after just one rainy season that it disintegrates if a two year old kid as much as farts exactly 2mm away from it. They say that the newer (nice oxymoron, no?) vehicles get a special anti rust blah treatment but I'd rather play it safe - go for 3M eyes closed and get it done from an authorised 3M outlet.
Lastly I must say I have made peace with the ugly looks at least for now - actually was all ready to change the grille & the bumper - even found out the rates for the old ones from the showroom (MPC Force Chennai) - it was 4k & 8/9k - then I realized the fiber bumper is quite strong & it even has quite a lot of metal backing - so based on that discovery, at least for now I am beginning to feel OK with the new looks. That said - you must check out this new review by a Malayalam channel Manorama news - because at around 11m the video features a new look variant of the Gurkha with WARN PTO with additional fog-lamps on the hood & a sleeker/shorter version of the new grill - which sits into the original slot of the face. Check out the video just to catch that new beast.
4k and 8/9k? Why two different rates? Or am I missing something here? Are the chrome bumpers of the old Gurkha still available or are these rates for the panels of a Trax?
I am looking for advice from the seasoned 'colonels' of the 'Gurkha Regiment' on a few questions -
Jai Mahakali! Ayo Gurkhali!
- First Q on Running In - Did you have the same intital experience as I am having - vehicle shuddering at 90/100kmph. If so how long did the engine take to 'run-in' before it got smoother.
I do not own a Gurkha but given the genes of this engine I'd run it in properly for 3000 kms and expect it to get smoother only around the 8000-10000km mark. That said, the engine is a toughie and should be up for a Leh trip when your kid grows up and decides to drive down the Gurkha up there.
- Second Q is what I posed in my previous post - what about anti-corrosion coating - required - yes/no - if yes - why & which brand(3M/WURTH).Given that I am in Chennai one of the most horribly humid cities - which corroded away a part of my dad's rarely used Maruti Omni - I am quite sure it is very much required at least for the underbody, but I am waiting to hear others' ideas.
3M. 3M. 3M. Salt is a bigger adversary than China/Pak.
- Third Q - How has your experience been with the Turbocharger(TC) - I mean idling before driving & after driving. Well I had seen drivers in the army idle the Ashok Leyland Stallion 4X4 Trucks especially in high-altitude areas for at least 4 min - to lubricate the TC well before driving. And I read a similar advice in the Gurkha's User Manual (2min of idling) - and I have been religiously following that advice though it tends to be a little inconvenient - you can't drive off immediately after you jump in & you can't stop the vehicle & jump off immediately after you reach your destination.But I am more than OK to put up with the inconvenience as I know that if the TC gets damaged, it could blow a very big hole in my pocket, but still curious to know others' experience on this 'idling for turbocharger' business.
Though I have no scientific data to prove this, I'd still say idling is a must before driving off and switching off the engine.
1. When we blink our eyelids, we do not feel any irritation in the eyes because there is a thin film of some xyz fluid between out eyelids and the eyeball. Same applies to an engine - if there is a thin film of oil between the moving parts of the engine, it'll reduce wear and tear of those components. The engine oil rests in a sump below the engine crankcase. When you start the engine, an oil pump starts circulating this oil to various parts of the engine through the oil lines. So, turbocharger or not, it is a good idea to idle a cold engine before starting off.
2. A turbocharger rotates at more than 100000 rpm. For such a fast rotating device, lubrication is of utmost importance. After starting run the engine in low idle speed for at least 30 seconds. Do not press accelerator pedal while starting the engine to avoid damage to turbocharger. Before switching off the engine, run the engine idle for at least 30 seconds and then switch off. This will allow the engine oil to lubricate the turbocharger, till its speed is fully reduced and also allow the unit to cool down.
3. Alternatively, you could drive very gently for the first km and the last km of your journey so that the engine rpm doesn't cross into the turbo zone. This should keep the turbocharger out of harm's way.
My query from current owners of Gurkha for anything particular I should be paying attention to at the time of delivery?
I could write a book on this but quicky:
1. Remember that all Gurkhas are DRIVEN from the Pithampur plant (in Madhya Pradesh) to their respective dealerships. Check the Odo - what does it show?
2. Take a magnifying lens with you and check for rust, paint chips, and scratches - especially since you are taking the matt black colour.
3. Ask the dealer to put the vehicle on a ramp and check the underbody thoroughly - look for rust, loose screws, hanging wires/cables, oil leakage (engine, prop shaft, gearbox, differential, etc.).
4. Drive it and see if the wheels are aligned properly.
5. Lock/unlock the differentials many times and see if they are functioning properly alongwith the instrument panel light (there are two different lights on the instrument panel for the front and rear diff lock)
6. Check the transfer case if it is engaing/disengaging properly alongwith the instrument panel light.
7. Check for play in the steering - some amount of play is acceptable but it shouldnt feel very vague.
8. Turn the steering from lock to lock and see it there are any whining noises at full lock on either side.
9. Check for cooling efficay of the air conditioner. Ha Ha!
10. There WILL be rattles/squeaks - DO NOT accept a vehicle with rattles/squeaks; the dealer will tell you "saar be bil feex thes on phirst serbees". Bollocks. Tell him you want these fixed RIGHT NOW else you are not taking delivery.
11. Yank/pull all the hoses/pipes that you see inside the engine bay. If anyone of them feels loose, get it tightened then and there.
12. While checking the hoses, remember that no hose should be touching any metal part of the engine - if it does, ask the dealer to fix it.
13. Check all plastic parts inside the Gurkha - window winders, locking knobs, glovebox lid, OBD cover etc. for their presence (yes, presence) and smooth functioning.
14. The tyres would be overinflated. Ask the dealer to fill them up to OEM specifications.
15. Jack, handle, toolbox - are they present.
16. Roof mounted stop lamp - is it securely screwed in?
17. Fibre bumpers and wheel arches - look for cracks/ill fittings.
18. Wipers and windshield washer - do they function?
19. Rear windows - do they slide properly and lock securely?
20. Check if all fluids are topped up.
21. Check all rubber beadings and ensure they are not cracked and fitted properly.
Apart from the above, do download the TAI PDI check list and scrutinize the Gurkha as per the points mentioned therein - you will get lots of insights.
All the best (Hope you won't need it,but I know you will!).
Regards,
Sam