Can you post some drawing? So i can understand the concept?
Low Beam Projector Experiments with LEDs, Xenon Strobes, Torches etc.
- Thread Starter bhvm
- Start date
Thread Starter
#17
you mean the Lambertian beam pattern?
proof is in the First post itself. see how led has a neat beam pattern without reflector or anything . I didn't even insert the Led inside the housings, just flashed it from bulb mounts.
proof is in the First post itself. see how led has a neat beam pattern without reflector or anything . I didn't even insert the Led inside the housings, just flashed it from bulb mounts.
See this optics.
Its the basic principle..
All optics has a focal point.. You need to keep the light source accurately in that xyz point. Make sure you do..
We can take copper rod and mate it with led heatsink and cool it outside.. As like cpu cooling
Now you say keeping led from bulb socket itself ypu get cut off..
But bro wait
Cut of is not at all a issue the plate will stop the light and reflect it inside and make it pass to low beam..
But just notice how small the beam is.. It does not have spread.. To get it you have to take it to the focal point..
Just take a 3v led and solder it with a good gauge wire.. Must be stiff.. Then give supply and holding the wire and Point the led forward and play with the optics inside the reflector.. You can see images with patterns like sunlight thing.. All due to optics.. Nothing special.. You can note at that one single point where focal point is present. You get wider output with same intensity in all places not high at middle and lesser at edges..
I asked drawing not about image output.. I am asking how you gonna keep the led with heatsink placing ,mounting, position and all just a schematic side view diagram can explain it to me.. If you have a pen and paper near.. Draw it like the pic i attached.. Insted of halogen you draw your setup ..
I am interested in this project
Its the basic principle..
All optics has a focal point.. You need to keep the light source accurately in that xyz point. Make sure you do..
We can take copper rod and mate it with led heatsink and cool it outside.. As like cpu cooling
Now you say keeping led from bulb socket itself ypu get cut off..
But bro wait
Cut of is not at all a issue the plate will stop the light and reflect it inside and make it pass to low beam..
But just notice how small the beam is.. It does not have spread.. To get it you have to take it to the focal point..
Just take a 3v led and solder it with a good gauge wire.. Must be stiff.. Then give supply and holding the wire and Point the led forward and play with the optics inside the reflector.. You can see images with patterns like sunlight thing.. All due to optics.. Nothing special.. You can note at that one single point where focal point is present. You get wider output with same intensity in all places not high at middle and lesser at edges..
I asked drawing not about image output.. I am asking how you gonna keep the led with heatsink placing ,mounting, position and all just a schematic side view diagram can explain it to me.. If you have a pen and paper near.. Draw it like the pic i attached.. Insted of halogen you draw your setup ..
I am interested in this project
Attachments
Guys just a small doubt which i am not finding answers elsewhere.
Can we use the water block from the computer water cooled systems to cool the LEDs?
Looking at 10watt cree X 6 or 7,producing 6000 to 7000 lumens.
If i go ahead i want to avoid fans as they clog with dirt,so would a water block be enough to cool the heat from 70 watts of LEDs.
Can we use the water block from the computer water cooled systems to cool the LEDs?
Looking at 10watt cree X 6 or 7,producing 6000 to 7000 lumens.
If i go ahead i want to avoid fans as they clog with dirt,so would a water block be enough to cool the heat from 70 watts of LEDs.
Thread Starter
#20
yes it works 100%
gpu cooling blocks can take upto 90w of led.
what usually is the weak link is Water pump and the seals. they're not designed for vibrations and jerks of automotive environment. anyways you STILL need fans on the water radiator.
are you putting a different lens shaper on each?
Acura has done something like that. they use 5 leds per side. 2 of them are spot lens(2 deg ). then 3rd 5 deg, 4th is 7deg and finally 5th is 21 deg. gives Very wide beam pattern with enough punch in the center
if not, get a 50w COB Led straight away.
Stingray,I'm still researching for you.
gpu cooling blocks can take upto 90w of led.
what usually is the weak link is Water pump and the seals. they're not designed for vibrations and jerks of automotive environment. anyways you STILL need fans on the water radiator.
are you putting a different lens shaper on each?
Acura has done something like that. they use 5 leds per side. 2 of them are spot lens(2 deg ). then 3rd 5 deg, 4th is 7deg and finally 5th is 21 deg. gives Very wide beam pattern with enough punch in the center
if not, get a 50w COB Led straight away.
Stingray,I'm still researching for you.
Thread Starter
#21
Here is how lambertian beam pattern looks on paper-
Here is how Batwing pattern looks (used on capped headlights)
LED LAMPS
A VERY good read who are looking into High power LEDs-
http://www.bluehaze.com.au/modlight/Luxeon.htm
Here is how Batwing pattern looks (used on capped headlights)
LED LAMPS
A VERY good read who are looking into High power LEDs-
http://www.bluehaze.com.au/modlight/Luxeon.htm
I am still looking into different ways of mounting the leds & getting a good beam, if i am going to go multi led ,then will used 3000k colour leds at high beam area,also custom water block & making sure the leds work with headlight level adjuster.
And i am still rookie in the electrical segment so have to discuss it with someone i know who manufactures home led lighting,so they can help me with some of the work.
But still a long way to go,but will certainly use projectors.
My friend picked up the new E this week & i noticed its beam pattern changes cos of multi led set up in the lens. But it used separate dedicated lens for high beam & low beam & also colour temp is 5500k (heard the LEDs are osram)which is not good for our conditions.
So i have some hope that leds in projectors are a good idea. Besides the instant light up when flashing is a win over HID.Cos on the A8(again another friend) the Leds would use diffusers & hit it onto the reflectors & i was really disappointed with its real world visibility.
I plan to have low beam temp at 4000-4500k & high beam temp at 3000-3500k
Can you pm the details of the lens & placement of the Acura? Will be updating as the days go & things get finalized.
And i am still rookie in the electrical segment so have to discuss it with someone i know who manufactures home led lighting,so they can help me with some of the work.
But still a long way to go,but will certainly use projectors.
My friend picked up the new E this week & i noticed its beam pattern changes cos of multi led set up in the lens. But it used separate dedicated lens for high beam & low beam & also colour temp is 5500k (heard the LEDs are osram)which is not good for our conditions.
So i have some hope that leds in projectors are a good idea. Besides the instant light up when flashing is a win over HID.Cos on the A8(again another friend) the Leds would use diffusers & hit it onto the reflectors & i was really disappointed with its real world visibility.
I plan to have low beam temp at 4000-4500k & high beam temp at 3000-3500k
Can you pm the details of the lens & placement of the Acura? Will be updating as the days go & things get finalized.
Thread Starter
#23
May I request your attention to This post which answers all your questions-
http://www.theautomotiveindia.com/f...16657-led-trend-right-wrong-2.html#post374593
acura LEDs-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR0EWPIBbTk
http://www.theautomotiveindia.com/f...16657-led-trend-right-wrong-2.html#post374593
acura LEDs-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR0EWPIBbTk
Thread Starter
#24
a fantastic led has been launched-
Cree begins to fill SC5 Extreme High Power packaged LED portfolio
4000 lumen at 5000k. only 35w. 7mm
Cree begins to fill SC5 Extreme High Power packaged LED portfolio
4000 lumen at 5000k. only 35w. 7mm
Guys i am about to upgrade my Hid bulbs on my igen I20 to better quality Osram bulbs,but before i want to spend money on my retrofit upgrade. I want to re-explore the idea of an Led set up for my projectors.I was wondering on a retrofit from a S class USA W222 without the complex variable led cos Usa model does not get it cos of lighting laws unlike euro spec.The mounts are damaged,everything is confirmed to be working,brand new it would cost me 4 lakhs to buy these lights.I was hoping by getting the whole light with the cooling system & ballast i could get a reliable set up.
I want brighter low beams,i am just doing a final thinking before getting the Osram hid bulbs.
But i feel i am being paranoid here & should explore a DIY led projectors myself? But i just love the way those projectors look,just so Bada$$ i cant help it.
My high beams run with 55watt halogen & the 35watt hid powered by the Denso ballast.The high beams are just amazing but i resist from flashing when overtaking cos its bad for the hid bulbs, thats why i feel LED with atleast 5000 lumens would keep me happy.
I want brighter low beams,i am just doing a final thinking before getting the Osram hid bulbs.
But i feel i am being paranoid here & should explore a DIY led projectors myself? But i just love the way those projectors look,just so Bada$$ i cant help it.
My high beams run with 55watt halogen & the 35watt hid powered by the Denso ballast.The high beams are just amazing but i resist from flashing when overtaking cos its bad for the hid bulbs, thats why i feel LED with atleast 5000 lumens would keep me happy.
Thread Starter
#26
Dear Friends, I played more with the Projector. More Importantly, I moved the shield to allow more light to pass. I also played with More LED sources. I think LED projector is finally possible. I will upload Pics today night.
Hello Prads,
Its nice to hear of your endevour getting proper LED lamps in your Car. May I know whats your current car and what setup you run?
1) it appears you're running a chinese HID kit. If the KIT is 4300k, Upgrading to Osrams will give you a definite but hardly noticeable Difference. Human eye cannot pick an increase of say 10~20%. So better be prepared for only a subtle difference.
2)Now coming back to your retofit,
The first hindrance I see is cost. S-class merc headlights are going to be bloody expensive. I've seen BMW Headlights costing 3 lac for a pair. Thats as much as a small car in India!
Next hindrance you will have is the Sizes and Technical difficulties. I see that S-Class Headlight are much larger than your car's. These could not mechanically fit.
In the closing, I will say that LED headlights are not just some "Bulb and Ballast" that you can plonk into any housing. Acutally, the most important part are the lenses and Light guides (Optics) Which generate proper Beam pattern. It would be difficult to extract the Lenses without practically breaking them. As these LED headlights do not need Bulb replacement, They are entirely sealed units, and not designed to have any access to the LED of any kind.
3)prads,
good luck on finding cracked headlight housings. however before you spend any cash, do check if they come ON by supplying 12v dc. actually in most of these'super premium' cars, the lights are controlled by canbus and they won't even start unless Proper code is provided by car computer. for example your i20 ecu will not Power a BMW led headlights etc.
4) You have Halogen Highs then why would flashing harm your HIDs? Do Both Halogen+HID come on when Flashing?
5) If you are running 35W Ballasts, first try going to genuine 55W ones. They have faster startup, and about 4000 Lumens. (Compared to 3200 lumens on 35W ballast)
6) If you can bring things from USA, There are CREE XML u2 LED torches available. There are some crazy guys on CPF or HID Planet that combined 5~10 such torches and made a 10k+ Lumen monster. If you have access to Machining and Milling, you can do that. Cree XML 'TORCH" beam pattern is very useful as HIGH BEAM ASSISTS.
Bring on the discussion Folks!
Hello Prads,
Its nice to hear of your endevour getting proper LED lamps in your Car. May I know whats your current car and what setup you run?
1) it appears you're running a chinese HID kit. If the KIT is 4300k, Upgrading to Osrams will give you a definite but hardly noticeable Difference. Human eye cannot pick an increase of say 10~20%. So better be prepared for only a subtle difference.
2)Now coming back to your retofit,
The first hindrance I see is cost. S-class merc headlights are going to be bloody expensive. I've seen BMW Headlights costing 3 lac for a pair. Thats as much as a small car in India!
Next hindrance you will have is the Sizes and Technical difficulties. I see that S-Class Headlight are much larger than your car's. These could not mechanically fit.
In the closing, I will say that LED headlights are not just some "Bulb and Ballast" that you can plonk into any housing. Acutally, the most important part are the lenses and Light guides (Optics) Which generate proper Beam pattern. It would be difficult to extract the Lenses without practically breaking them. As these LED headlights do not need Bulb replacement, They are entirely sealed units, and not designed to have any access to the LED of any kind.
3)prads,
good luck on finding cracked headlight housings. however before you spend any cash, do check if they come ON by supplying 12v dc. actually in most of these'super premium' cars, the lights are controlled by canbus and they won't even start unless Proper code is provided by car computer. for example your i20 ecu will not Power a BMW led headlights etc.
4) You have Halogen Highs then why would flashing harm your HIDs? Do Both Halogen+HID come on when Flashing?
5) If you are running 35W Ballasts, first try going to genuine 55W ones. They have faster startup, and about 4000 Lumens. (Compared to 3200 lumens on 35W ballast)
6) If you can bring things from USA, There are CREE XML u2 LED torches available. There are some crazy guys on CPF or HID Planet that combined 5~10 such torches and made a 10k+ Lumen monster. If you have access to Machining and Milling, you can do that. Cree XML 'TORCH" beam pattern is very useful as HIGH BEAM ASSISTS.
Bring on the discussion Folks!
My current car i am planning this on is a 2012 igen i20,it has wider lights compared to Elite i20 & first type headlights. It also has separate reflectors for high beam & low beam,during high beam both bulbs turn on.This is how stock set up was.
Later i imported a Morimoto D2s kit from USA ,a projector lens was fitted to the low beams.This projector shield opens when high beam is used given an amazing high beam which works with the stock halogen high beam reflector.
Its using Denso ballast but one went kaput on install & was lost in transit for warranty claim.The Denso ballast is OEM Toyota supply,but same model has been used on Porsche OEM to Mazda OEM. One ballast is a local one at the moment.As was busy until now with work i am in final phase of ordering the single ballast & new Osram bulbs to replace the Morimoto bulbs. But giving a final think before spending.
I am aware these headlights cost alot but i already have access to a pair of damaged headlights for around 24k.The internals are intact & working but outer doom is a goner.
And even if i can play with the focus motors on the lens to get proper focus but i guess your right in process of opening these sealed units i damage one component then its a project gone bad.
Also on the canbus thing i am sure your right cos the cooling fans are controlled by sensors,it will be a difficult job to make things direct & i mite end up making things unreliable over our bad bouncy roads.
Yes both come on when flashing,i could only find a 10 second delay timer for the hid but i felt 10 seconds is too long to wait for lights to come on, i would be happy with a 3 second delay timer if i could possibly find one.
Yes but i am happy with the 35watts its just the bulbs that could do the upgrade,without going a bit too OT the bulbs use high quality expensive salts that give use illumination,so what we pay is what we get in HID bulbs, besides 55watt ballasts reduce the life of the bulb & in some cases bulbs do colour shift sooner. Seems like the better quality bulbs can keep it at 3500 lumens,but my wide projectors is making the low beams seem less bright when roads get more open.
That must be nuts,but to be honest i feel my high beams are already crazy enough,cos the high beam halogens were more like spot lights,thats what made me upgrade badly,the projectors in high beam is just brilliant as the shield is lifted. So both together with the amber light of the halogens and the 4500k light from the HIDs give amazing light. But then adding 10000 lumens must be an endangering but i still want it experience.![[:)]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Smile.gif "Smile [:)]")
I can also add a tiny projector to my high beam reflector area & make it run in low beam & high beam giving double light output, so in such a case if i did led lights in them would be happy if i can get 2800 to 3000 lumens in them. It seems to be a viable option as cooling required will be less.
I am curious to see them,as i too want to try this.Once this is tackled next step can be the heatsink & additional cooling.
Later i imported a Morimoto D2s kit from USA ,a projector lens was fitted to the low beams.This projector shield opens when high beam is used given an amazing high beam which works with the stock halogen high beam reflector.
Its using Denso ballast but one went kaput on install & was lost in transit for warranty claim.The Denso ballast is OEM Toyota supply,but same model has been used on Porsche OEM to Mazda OEM. One ballast is a local one at the moment.As was busy until now with work i am in final phase of ordering the single ballast & new Osram bulbs to replace the Morimoto bulbs. But giving a final think before spending.
I am aware these headlights cost alot but i already have access to a pair of damaged headlights for around 24k.The internals are intact & working but outer doom is a goner.
And even if i can play with the focus motors on the lens to get proper focus but i guess your right in process of opening these sealed units i damage one component then its a project gone bad.
Also on the canbus thing i am sure your right cos the cooling fans are controlled by sensors,it will be a difficult job to make things direct & i mite end up making things unreliable over our bad bouncy roads.
Yes both come on when flashing,i could only find a 10 second delay timer for the hid but i felt 10 seconds is too long to wait for lights to come on, i would be happy with a 3 second delay timer if i could possibly find one.
Yes but i am happy with the 35watts its just the bulbs that could do the upgrade,without going a bit too OT the bulbs use high quality expensive salts that give use illumination,so what we pay is what we get in HID bulbs, besides 55watt ballasts reduce the life of the bulb & in some cases bulbs do colour shift sooner. Seems like the better quality bulbs can keep it at 3500 lumens,but my wide projectors is making the low beams seem less bright when roads get more open.
That must be nuts,but to be honest i feel my high beams are already crazy enough,cos the high beam halogens were more like spot lights,thats what made me upgrade badly,the projectors in high beam is just brilliant as the shield is lifted. So both together with the amber light of the halogens and the 4500k light from the HIDs give amazing light. But then adding 10000 lumens must be an endangering but i still want it experience.
I can also add a tiny projector to my high beam reflector area & make it run in low beam & high beam giving double light output, so in such a case if i did led lights in them would be happy if i can get 2800 to 3000 lumens in them. It seems to be a viable option as cooling required will be less.
I am curious to see them,as i too want to try this.Once this is tackled next step can be the heatsink & additional cooling.
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Thread Starter
#28
dear Prads,
Congratulations on Running a very fine and enviable setup on your i20!. A pic please!
I hope you have already gone through my XUV thunderbolt ownership thread where i've made some in depth talk about Quality HIDs. I now run quad HIDs on my Thunderbolt (Lows and Fogs). I may look into High beam HIDs in future if the need be. I already Run 4000 Lumen LED high beam assists.
1) Do you feel the difference in output among Local ballasts and Denso Ballasts? If the Local ballasts are DC, bulbs appear somewhat bluer.
2) Yes I remember how the Old i20 Headlight were better. I guess now they made the headlights smaller and more squishy, Compromising the output as well as Upgrade options.
3) are you Buying Osram 81522s ? You can also get a rebased Philips if your vendor is reliable.
4) IMHO don't spend 24,k on those lights. Not worth it. Rather, one can re-pourpose those 24k for better ballasts, Bulbs and Projector.
Although LED is the latest thing. Its not the best thing for Car headlights. Car Lamps are practically rated by LUX level rather than Lumens. Now, HID Bulbs have very high LUX level as all the light is coming from a very small "ARC". On the other hand, 30W or 50W LED has MUCH larger surface area and hence it makes difficult to focus light properly.
I guess HIDs are here to stay and More research is required for proper focusing of the LED chip.
5) HID bulbs have amazing life even if you drive every day. Over 5 years. Yes, 55w will sacrifice the life, it will also wash out the color. Your 4600K something lights will look more like 4100K. Also, Beware about damage to the chrome due to higher heat.
6) The best option here is Run a second Bixenon lamp in your High beam bowl. So you can have 2 High beams, 2 Low beams. About 13K Lumens in total. Thats crazy amount of light. You will loose the flashing function though.
In my XUV, Flashing is retained by dedicated LED high beam assists (cree)
7) Agreed, yellow High beams + 4600K Low beams + 4600K Fogs is some Sorted setup. Very oem and brilliant. I love the Hint of yellow (3500K) high beams for distance.
8) Actually the hard part is focusing my camera on the beam. This magical projector can "Project" 2W LED for Miles! Almost like a laser. Ive never seen such behavior. I was also able to "Project" my Phone screen on a wall for mini-movie thingy. Amazing!
9) In the closing, I am looking to make a 5000 Lumen something DIY LED high beam assist for my Blue Boy. The stock headlights are just too dim and people don't Pay "respect" when I flash high-beamers. Lets make their eyes bleed!
I already brought some 10w and 20W LEDs. I am finding the lens and drivers for the same.
Congratulations on Running a very fine and enviable setup on your i20!. A pic please!
I hope you have already gone through my XUV thunderbolt ownership thread where i've made some in depth talk about Quality HIDs. I now run quad HIDs on my Thunderbolt (Lows and Fogs). I may look into High beam HIDs in future if the need be. I already Run 4000 Lumen LED high beam assists.
1) Do you feel the difference in output among Local ballasts and Denso Ballasts? If the Local ballasts are DC, bulbs appear somewhat bluer.
2) Yes I remember how the Old i20 Headlight were better. I guess now they made the headlights smaller and more squishy, Compromising the output as well as Upgrade options.
3) are you Buying Osram 81522s ? You can also get a rebased Philips if your vendor is reliable.
4) IMHO don't spend 24,k on those lights. Not worth it. Rather, one can re-pourpose those 24k for better ballasts, Bulbs and Projector.
Although LED is the latest thing. Its not the best thing for Car headlights. Car Lamps are practically rated by LUX level rather than Lumens. Now, HID Bulbs have very high LUX level as all the light is coming from a very small "ARC". On the other hand, 30W or 50W LED has MUCH larger surface area and hence it makes difficult to focus light properly.
I guess HIDs are here to stay and More research is required for proper focusing of the LED chip.
5) HID bulbs have amazing life even if you drive every day. Over 5 years. Yes, 55w will sacrifice the life, it will also wash out the color. Your 4600K something lights will look more like 4100K. Also, Beware about damage to the chrome due to higher heat.
6) The best option here is Run a second Bixenon lamp in your High beam bowl. So you can have 2 High beams, 2 Low beams. About 13K Lumens in total. Thats crazy amount of light. You will loose the flashing function though.
In my XUV, Flashing is retained by dedicated LED high beam assists (cree)
7) Agreed, yellow High beams + 4600K Low beams + 4600K Fogs is some Sorted setup. Very oem and brilliant. I love the Hint of yellow (3500K) high beams for distance.
8) Actually the hard part is focusing my camera on the beam. This magical projector can "Project" 2W LED for Miles! Almost like a laser. Ive never seen such behavior. I was also able to "Project" my Phone screen on a wall for mini-movie thingy. Amazing!
9) In the closing, I am looking to make a 5000 Lumen something DIY LED high beam assist for my Blue Boy. The stock headlights are just too dim and people don't Pay "respect" when I flash high-beamers. Lets make their eyes bleed!
I already brought some 10w and 20W LEDs. I am finding the lens and drivers for the same.
Yes i do,during start up the Denso makes the bulb appear blue but output is white for nearly a min,this is cos of the high current on warm up,i have already changed one local spare ballast & another i think p8 brand is running now as a spare,the local ballast runs the bulbs a bit blue & illumination also seems bad in comparison.
I think the Osram 81522 you mention is actually Philips 81522? Yes they have rebased ones. The one i am buying is OEM spec Osram Xenarc 66240,they are 4150k colour.Since my projectors are clear lens am sure or rather expecting they will appear brighter than OEM.Alot of other forums including another forum member i met during time of install told me to go for Osrams instead of Morimoto as he had done the same,but the Philips have legendary status no doubt.
Yes your right,i guess its way out of my league to try something like that.Guess easier step would be to follow what you did on your XUV 500(read some of it today) & try going for a low aimed spread or spot beam secondary led lights if am not happy with the low beam.
Well 55w ballast do different things to different bulbs,some stay stable some really age & keep going up & up the colour temp till they are blue.There are also crazy Denso boosted to 75 & 100Watts,those guys use chinese bulbs every year.
The new bulbs i selected are supposedly accurate 4150k,so with age & a couple of years done the line i guess they should reach 5000k which is still not bad.
If i went for projectors in the high beam reflector then they too can behave as low beam & high beam with some rewiring.But from what i read warmer colours like 3500k till 4300k are best for high beam,so guess want to stick to the halogens,already very satisfied with the high beams. I will try the method you said with the Leds for maybe a low beam at a later stage.But then bright glare free light is my aim.
My fogs are running stock bulbs,dont use them unless i am driving in basement during mornings, so need to switch on the HIDs for short duration is avoided.
Yes i am sure the 2w Led your using in experiment must be really good,at night i use a Britelight led torch,its a 3w model. Everyone who meets me always asks about it.Those beams go on forever.And the projector must really bring out the colours.
I am curious to see the 5000 lumen set up for your i10,i never have had any problem with majority high beamers after upgrading my lights,otherwise it was very bad cos my high beam would only illuminate in the exact center & the opposite guy would happily drive with his highbeams without care and also i could not see the corners during night drive which is a flaw with the dual reflector igen i20 stock headlights.
What are your thoughts on the Mod on this Toyota Tundra in the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9FV_ogZSP0
I think the Osram 81522 you mention is actually Philips 81522? Yes they have rebased ones. The one i am buying is OEM spec Osram Xenarc 66240,they are 4150k colour.Since my projectors are clear lens am sure or rather expecting they will appear brighter than OEM.Alot of other forums including another forum member i met during time of install told me to go for Osrams instead of Morimoto as he had done the same,but the Philips have legendary status no doubt.
Yes your right,i guess its way out of my league to try something like that.Guess easier step would be to follow what you did on your XUV 500(read some of it today) & try going for a low aimed spread or spot beam secondary led lights if am not happy with the low beam.
Well 55w ballast do different things to different bulbs,some stay stable some really age & keep going up & up the colour temp till they are blue.There are also crazy Denso boosted to 75 & 100Watts,those guys use chinese bulbs every year.
The new bulbs i selected are supposedly accurate 4150k,so with age & a couple of years done the line i guess they should reach 5000k which is still not bad.
If i went for projectors in the high beam reflector then they too can behave as low beam & high beam with some rewiring.But from what i read warmer colours like 3500k till 4300k are best for high beam,so guess want to stick to the halogens,already very satisfied with the high beams. I will try the method you said with the Leds for maybe a low beam at a later stage.But then bright glare free light is my aim.
My fogs are running stock bulbs,dont use them unless i am driving in basement during mornings, so need to switch on the HIDs for short duration is avoided.
Yes i am sure the 2w Led your using in experiment must be really good,at night i use a Britelight led torch,its a 3w model. Everyone who meets me always asks about it.Those beams go on forever.And the projector must really bring out the colours.
I am curious to see the 5000 lumen set up for your i10,i never have had any problem with majority high beamers after upgrading my lights,otherwise it was very bad cos my high beam would only illuminate in the exact center & the opposite guy would happily drive with his highbeams without care and also i could not see the corners during night drive which is a flaw with the dual reflector igen i20 stock headlights.
What are your thoughts on the Mod on this Toyota Tundra in the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9FV_ogZSP0
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Thread Starter
#30
6). you can also go in for a bi-halogen projector that will retain the flash to pass and yellow beam. morimoto h1 is the best option with 50w or 100w h1 bulb.
7) other interesting option is to go for 3000k hid in above projector. one 3000k hid kit + 4300k hid kit gives halogen like 3650k on the road. you can add Kill switch on 3000k hid and turn it on only when required.
if you love your current high beams, simply install hid in fogs. they're almost like a second low beam..Amazing results. very no- fuss install.
8) the 2w led is nothing but a mobile led! it runs 500ma @3.2v
9).the stock i10 lights are nothing but candles enclosed in fancy housings. they must be like 900-1000 lumens. poor and small Battery does not help either . even household cfl or tubelight has better light I must say.
I've already located High beam trigger in the engine bay. these currently Power small 8w LED which is still woefully inadequate. I'm looking forward to 50-70w led now.
10). Man. that headlight revolution is something else. I've seen most of their videos. some of their jw speaker true led headlights are really nice other than the prices.
7) other interesting option is to go for 3000k hid in above projector. one 3000k hid kit + 4300k hid kit gives halogen like 3650k on the road. you can add Kill switch on 3000k hid and turn it on only when required.
if you love your current high beams, simply install hid in fogs. they're almost like a second low beam..Amazing results. very no- fuss install.
8) the 2w led is nothing but a mobile led! it runs 500ma @3.2v
9).the stock i10 lights are nothing but candles enclosed in fancy housings. they must be like 900-1000 lumens. poor and small Battery does not help either . even household cfl or tubelight has better light I must say.
I've already located High beam trigger in the engine bay. these currently Power small 8w LED which is still woefully inadequate. I'm looking forward to 50-70w led now.
10). Man. that headlight revolution is something else. I've seen most of their videos. some of their jw speaker true led headlights are really nice other than the prices.