Hyundai Verna Fluidic Technical Issues & Solutions


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Re: Life with the all new Hyundai Verna

If you have FATC (fully automatic Temperature Control) equipped in your fluidic verna , you can run a self-diagnostic to make sure the components related to it working properly.

To get into the self diagnosis mode

1. Put the key into the ignition hole
2. Turn the key into ON position so the dashboard lights illuminates (No starting of engine)
3. Press and hold the OFF button, then press the MODE button more than 4 times within 2seconds
4. The you can see the Display unit of a/c illuminates and display codes starts blinking.
5. Now the diagnosis starts
6. press the A/C button to proceed to next step
7. after completion it will come into the original condition
8. Incase if you want to quit anytime press OFF button


Here are the other codes which will display if any of the component related to F.A.T.C malfunctions.

00 = Normal
11 = In-car temparature sensor open
12 = In-car temparature sensor short
13 = Ambient temparature sensor open
14 = Ambient temparature sensor short
17 = Evaporator temparature sensor open
18 = Evaporator temparature sensor short
19 = Temparature control actuator feed back open
20 = Temparature control actuatore failure
21 = Mode Control actuator open
21 = Mode control actuator short
22 = Mode control actuator failure
25 = Intake potentiometer open
25 = Intake potentiometer short
26 = Intake potentiometer failure

credit goes to wildon from his i20 tips and tricks thread i have tried it and it works.
This is the really good option in the Hyundai cars... You can diagnose Car AC System easily and fix it.
 
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Nearing 13 years and 1,02,469
The Digital Display on the Dash has started having issues as you can seen from the image. Not interested to get the console replaced for this. Will look around for proven alternative or else will live with this.
5DDCF40B-B171-4D3A-8112-264C0E0CA168.jpeg

The rear camera is also gone the as seen from the below picture luckily nothing wrong with the IRVM itself.

26C2D4C4-D961-4493-95A4-2444BFC76ED7.jpeg
 
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Got Battery warning on the dash lit up on Thursday evening.We were about to set out to Chennai from Trivandrum on Sunday . Checked fuses and all were intact was half happy as well since if this would have happened in middle of trip then all plans would get changed which includes Return to Office on Monday
Got the Alternator Assy and Belt changed from my trusted FNG
The OEM alternator was Valeo make and FNG was able to get an valeo one with 6 months warranty for 14.5K.
The Belt was sourced from the nearest ASC
Didn’t opt for repair since wanted the car urgently and was not willing to risk time.
957E4633-3555-4518-A722-BB04979CA7AA.jpeg

9F8B90F4-4E38-4C38-9657-E8CD1E949143.jpeg

No more lights and running just fine.
 

mayankdixit

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Got Battery warning on the dash lit up on Thursday evening.We were about to set out to Chennai from Trivandrum on Sunday . Checked fuses and all were intact was half happy as well since if this would have happened in middle of trip then all plans would get changed which includes Return to Office on Monday
Got the Alternator Assy and Belt changed from my trusted FNG
How was it concluded that the alternator is faulty ??
Was there an error code in diagnostics, pointing towards alternator fault ? If not, then how?
 
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How was it concluded that the alternator is faulty ??
Was there an error code in diagnostics, pointing towards alternator fault ? If not, then how?
1. There was slight rattle noise when the engine was running from the alternator region.
2. Battery warning lamp was on
3. All fuses for the charging circuit was intact
4. Battery is relatively new though new battery could fail but this has holding charge and was able to drive 20kms with battery light on.
5. Voltage on engine idle was 12.34 V
FNG took to an electrician who initially said pulley and regular might need replacement since he has seen same failures before.

Which FNG did you give the car to @Vishak bro?
Gulf Mechanics , Poojapura
 
Thread Starter #698
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Nearing 13 years and 1,02,469
The Digital Display on the Dash has started having issues as you can seen from the image. Not interested to get the console replaced for this. Will look around for proven alternative or else will live with this.
View attachment 299929
The rear camera is also gone the as seen from the below picture luckily nothing wrong with the IRVM itself.

View attachment 299930
If I remember correct the camera was a very costly part, and if i’m correct the camera is attached to the trunk open switch, I may be wrong but when I asked to change the switch this is what they told me. The ivrm I know costs about 50k somewhere. You can try after market cameras that can hook up to the same wiring but maybe fiddle around to install.
 
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If I remember correct the camera was a very costly part, and if i’m correct the camera is attached to the trunk open switch
The camera is priced at 14.5k INR. There are discussions of upgrading to a SUV/MPV. So I have put a hold onto doing anything with this. I would like to replace it with an OEM
Peice if at all we decide to push the upgrade for say 5 more years
 
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Coming back here with an Update. Not sure how many initial Owners are still retaining there Verna but here I'm still enjoying it.[drive]
The Odo stands at 1,08,XXX KMS and has been serviced at FNG aft 5 year from the initial purchase. Last Visit to FNG, I was recommended to get the suspension work done if I intended to keep the car or else to decide a new purchase sooner but FNG suggested to get the work done from ASC as the spare sales through counter was not that great and there were lot of fake OEM parts out in the market. Couple of weeks back I was greeted by and ABS Warning Lamp on the dash while driving it. Tried Disconnecting the battery and look around to see if any wires were bitten by rat even though I never had issues with Rat Bites before. I did not want to drive around with the ABS light on and was not ready to risk driving this way from Chennai to Kerala where my FNG is to take a loot at this.
Took to a Hyundai ASC ( This is nearly after 7 years the car is going into ASC even for Inspection). As usual, being a 12 year old war with more than 1,xx,xxx kms on the odo, after a general Inspection I was given a Quote of nearly 2 lacs This included Complete AC system change, Suspension work, Clutch Replacement, Body work, Parking Sensor replacements etc. Note My only complaint was ABS light and Suspension work. ASC said the sensors do not usually go bad and suspected a rat bite, but finally just cleaning both Front wheel sensors solved the ABS warning lamp issue.
I looked at the Repair Estimate, asked them to remove all items other than Suspension, I was ready to get things including Engine mounts replace but ASC said it would last another 20K KMS easily probably will get it during Timing Kit Replacement. Like all time no parts were in stock, Paid Advance for the parts, and they came in 2 days and dropped the car last Monday and got it this Wednesday. The car drives so smooth now, no rattling noise or anything. Total bill came as 39,822 of which 29,xxx was for parts and 10,xxx labor. I know i could have saved some bucks if i took the car other Mech, but the fact that if the ASC screw up something i can escalate that and the 6 month part warranty was good enough reason to get it done at ASC.

Brought all the old replaced parts home, not sure what to do with it but still[;)]
image_67194881.JPG
 
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.....FNG suggested to get the work done from ASC as the spare sales through counter was not that great and there were lot of fake OEM parts out in the market.
This is shocking and surprising to read. Is this applicable if the parts are purchased directly from the MOBIS distributor?

Took to a Hyundai ASC (This is nearly after 7 years the car is going into ASC even for Inspection).
Haha. My last visit to ASC was in Jan 2019. Never after that!

.....will get it during Timing Kit Replacement. Like all time no parts were in stock, Paid Advance for the parts, and they came in 2 days and dropped the car last Monday and got it this Wednesday. Total bill came as 39,822 of which 29,xxx was for parts and 10,xxx labor.
Parts are expensive I must say but they last long if driven correctly.

I own a 2017 Creta 1.6L CRDi that has done 1,29,000 kms and I am also looking at a complete suspension overhaul where I expect a similar bill cost for the spares.
 
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This is shocking and surprising to read. Is this applicable if the parts are purchased directly from the MOBIS distributor?
No,if you get through a MOBIS distributor it should be just fine. In the local market even if the box says Hyundai genuine there is still a chance that it still 50% fake.

Accounting this risk and having no real close connections in chennai, I did not take the risk and settled for ASC.

Somehow this ASC was better than my interactions with other ASC 7 years back in kerala. I might take the car back to this place when driving all the way to Kerala doesn't make sense to address few issues that might come up and see if they degrade the quality of service when they realise Im relying on the for SVC
 
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No, if you get through a MOBIS distributor it should be just fine. In the local market even if the box says Hyundai genuine there is still a chance that it still 50% fake.

Accounting this risk and having no real close connections in Chennai, I did not take the risk and settled for ASC.
That is great then. I have been purchasing all the spares and oils from MOBIS since 2019. I generally enquire for the required parts and place an order for them and once all have arrived, I schedule the visit to the FNG.

Upcoming works are Front Rotors and pad replacement - Planning to do it myself by sourcing all the parts from MOBIS.Will also do the caliper pin greasing during the same DIY for the front and rear disc calipers.

Next on the list is a complete suspension overhaul (front suspension, Rear suspension, Lower arms, Link rods, stabilizer bar bushes).
 
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The AC finally decided to stop working what started of with reduced cooling finally ended up in a situation where the compressor wasn’t turning ON deal. Took it to a FNG near home and had to replace Evaporator Coil and Compressor Valve. The FNG commented the Compressor is showing its age but i could still extract couple of more years, so decided to do a complete system flush, Oil change and gas top up along with coil replacement and pressure valve change. Took about 2 days and 16.5K inclusive of parts and labor, The Chilling AC is back.
Condition of a 13 year old and 1.15 Lac run coil
IMG_1110.jpeg
 
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