Whats idle speed sensor sir ? ( i mean its location and why it needs cleaning )And why throttle body cleaned at such early interval ?
Hyundai Verna 2016 1.6 VTVT(S): The Silver Fox (15K Kms. 3rd Service Update)
- Thread Starter krishna6239
- Start date
Thread Starter
#152
There was slight idling issue so I asked them to clean. I guess they listed MAP sensor cleaning as "Idle Speed Sensor cleaning". MAP is located on Intake Manifold in Verna (Fluidic and 4S)
Just wanted to get it done to see if it makes any difference in current condition.
Resut : Waste of money![[drive]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Drive.gif "Drive [drive]")
Just wanted to get it done to see if it makes any difference in current condition.
Resut : Waste of money
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MAP sensor (You meant Manifold absolute pressure sensor na sir ) , it doesn't require cleaning unless there is a variation in OBD scan say misfiring or pressure issue or so .
If the problem is resolved , then OK, else can you describe what issue you face with idling ?
My SA had told me to do throttle body post 40k or during 50k service , as its just a preventive maintenance for the vehicles which are serviced and maintained well . Else it is just an incentive for the advisor.
If the problem is resolved , then OK, else can you describe what issue you face with idling ?
My SA had told me to do throttle body post 40k or during 50k service , as its just a preventive maintenance for the vehicles which are serviced and maintained well . Else it is just an incentive for the advisor.
Thread Starter
#154
Car sometime used to idle rough and sometimes idle low as soon as i start the car. So I decided to get it serviced and check it once. At ASC error code popped up, SA suggested to clean it up once first and if it repeats then it'll be replaced under warranty.
I removed the intake duct and had a look inside throttle body, there was a slight blackish film on surface. Hence I asked him to clean the throttle body once.
I removed the intake duct and had a look inside throttle body, there was a slight blackish film on surface. Hence I asked him to clean the throttle body once.
Sir , even newly delivered vehicle after running for 1k km , develops blackish residue in throttle body linings , reason is our environment conditions .
For best VFM , I recommend TBC at 40k or above .
For best VFM , I recommend TBC at 40k or above .
Thread Starter
#156
Finally clocked 20K kms. Driving reduced due to commuting with motorcycle.
Most recent FE is 13.5 kmpl, avg of tracked 8.5K kms is 12.6 kmpl (31% city & 69% highway). High FE recorded was 14.5kmpl.
only issue has been the fogging of headlights, it reduced visibility by a huge margin. Even though it occurs rarely, it’s pretty much irritating.
Most recent FE is 13.5 kmpl, avg of tracked 8.5K kms is 12.6 kmpl (31% city & 69% highway). High FE recorded was 14.5kmpl.
only issue has been the fogging of headlights, it reduced visibility by a huge margin. Even though it occurs rarely, it’s pretty much irritating.
Thread Starter
#157
ODO : 21702 kms
recent FE : 12.3 kmpl
car went for repair On Sunday :
- whining Noise from TPS system.
- Clutch & brakes randomly becomes soft.
SA was pretty nice guy and managed to solve both of them at earliest.
recent FE : 12.3 kmpl
car went for repair On Sunday :
- whining Noise from TPS system.
- Clutch & brakes randomly becomes soft.
SA was pretty nice guy and managed to solve both of them at earliest.
Thread Starter
#158
Current ODO : 22,222km
Fuel efficiency statistics :
Pretty much a an hassle free ownership till now ! Planning on upgrading stereo to a cheaper once. pretty excited to see how things will turn out.
Fuel efficiency statistics :
- Tracked Kms : 10,736 km
- Avg FE : 12.7 kmpl
- Lowest FE : 10.8 kmpl
- Highest FE : 15.7 kmpl
- Recent FE : 13.6 kmpl
Pretty much a an hassle free ownership till now ! Planning on upgrading stereo to a cheaper once. pretty excited to see how things will turn out.
Thread Starter
#159
On 12/03/2020 got the Sony AX-1000 for the car.
things required are :
End Result
things required are :
- Suitable Harness : for connecting OEM wiring to Aftermarket stereo, splicing of factory wiring is not required. Costs 300-500₹.
- Stereo Fascia : for bridging gap between OEM wood finish fascia and AX-1000. Had to import from Singapore via aliexpress, costs ~1200₹. Took 28 days for delivery.
- Trim removal tool. Purchased the entire kit on amazon, costs ~800₹
- soldering wire, iron and flux
- insulation tape
- heat shrink tubing (optional but preferred)
- Time and patience. Was a good DIY during lockdown
End Result
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Hi @krishna6239 .. How you been?... Its been very long and I haven't logged in for a while now. I see that you've been regularly updating the thread. ![[cheers]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Cheers.gif "Cheers [cheers]")
That DIY look sgreat. I had to remove my original wooden trim fascia when i installed the F980BT. I'm stuck with Silver trim since the past 4 years. I did search for possible options to retain the wooden fascia but couldn't find a suitable one. Do you think the "Stereo Fascia" that you used would resolve my problem as well?.. If so, that would be fantastic...
And yes, just a few updates from my end since i haven't been active for while.
* I've clocked 34000 Kms on the Verna
* Clutch assembly got jammed at 32000 Kms and had to get that replaced. (Replacement of clutch at 32000 Kms is too soon but I've heard that its a known issue with the Verna's). Cost me around 20k![[sad]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Sad.gif "Sad [sad]")
* And yeah, I installed the auto folding mirror relay which was in my to do list for a while and it works great and the installation was also very simple.
* Also, got all the tyres replaced today.
That DIY look sgreat. I had to remove my original wooden trim fascia when i installed the F980BT. I'm stuck with Silver trim since the past 4 years. I did search for possible options to retain the wooden fascia but couldn't find a suitable one. Do you think the "Stereo Fascia" that you used would resolve my problem as well?.. If so, that would be fantastic...
And yes, just a few updates from my end since i haven't been active for while.
* I've clocked 34000 Kms on the Verna
* Clutch assembly got jammed at 32000 Kms and had to get that replaced. (Replacement of clutch at 32000 Kms is too soon but I've heard that its a known issue with the Verna's). Cost me around 20k
* And yeah, I installed the auto folding mirror relay which was in my to do list for a while and it works great and the installation was also very simple.
* Also, got all the tyres replaced today.
Why did you spend 20k on clutch assembly ? Did they change flywheel as well ? Clutch life depends on multiple factors.
Thread Starter
#162
Hi @krishna6239 .. How you been?... Its been very long and I haven't logged in for a while now. I see that you've been regularly updating the thread.
Yup without a doubt, AFAIK there are two models easily available from aliexpress for Hyundai Verna. Check dimensions of F980BT before ordering.
* Clutch assembly got jammed at 32000 Kms and had to get that replaced. (Replacement of clutch at 32000 Kms is too soon but I've heard that its a known issue with the Verna's). Cost me around 20k
Can send me the product info, if possible installation procedure too.
Cool, which tyres ? how much did it cost ?
It has been a while i logged in.. I believe all are doing good . I have moved to USA last April and was on a short assignment for 6 months in 2017-18. So Car was not been driven around. My father uses it very rarely but ensures to start and maintain every week to take care of the long term storage. .ODO is around 22k
4 months back the clutch push rod broke when taking the car out for a maintenance drive around. Got it replaced by ASS as the car was under warranty. Entire master cylinder assembly got replaced. Surprised to see the picture of a plastic rod being used to operate clutch. I am referring to the rod that connects clutch pedal with the master cylinder.
That looks clean. Good job
4 months back the clutch push rod broke when taking the car out for a maintenance drive around. Got it replaced by ASS as the car was under warranty. Entire master cylinder assembly got replaced. Surprised to see the picture of a plastic rod being used to operate clutch. I am referring to the rod that connects clutch pedal with the master cylinder.
That looks clean. Good job
My Clutch pedal was getting a little hard and during the service before the Clutch assembly replacement, the SA at the service center told me the same and mentioned that the assembly has to be replaced. I asked him if i could drive the car for some more time in that state and come back in case it gets worse. The SA said that would be fine and that the car can run some more before the assembly needs to be replaced. Exactly two months after, I was driving the car for almost two hours stopping in between for shopping and stuff and it seemed normal, but on the way back home I had to stop at a Toll to make a payment, I just shifted the gear to neutral (the clutch was working fine) then after making the payment, I tried to shift the gear back and the clutch wouldn't budge. It was jammed completely, I couldn't press it down. I was surprised how this could happen suddenly. Luckily this happened just 200 mtrs from my ususal Hyundai Service Center. And you can guess the rest....
I've attached the invoice. You can see the list of parts they've replaced. But isn't 32000 Kms too early for clutch wear out. And I'm very light footed when it comes to using the clutch except in heavy traffic when we're left with no other option.
I've attached the invoice. You can see the list of parts they've replaced. But isn't 32000 Kms too early for clutch wear out. And I'm very light footed when it comes to using the clutch except in heavy traffic when we're left with no other option.
Attachments
It appears similar to the issue i had for a relatively less driven car. My friend was taking my car for a spin and the clutch became hard to operate. I guess he had to apply more force resulting in a broken push rod. Then he had to call the roadside assistance and got the whole master assembly replaced. After changing it and bleeding the clutch, the issue was resolved. I spoke to the SA to know that this problem is not new in fluidic verna. They had dealt with similar incidents earlier. I guess if you have pushed it harder, you might have broken the rod and ended up replacing the master assembly alone instead of changing the whole assembly.