I also sometime forget to disengage handbrake .But in my case car refuses to move if handbrake engaged.![[;)]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Wink.gif "Wink [;)]")
Driving with Parking Brakes Engaged
- Thread Starter Sudhakar Shekar
- Start date
my xuv 500 won't even move with the hand brake on. engine clips instantly.
however with older models where breaks were weaker, it could have happened.
my uncle once drove his m800 all the way to ahmedabad!! there was smoke coming from rear wheels and the mechanism was growing red hot.
but the sight was nothing compared to face of my uncle! we must have laughed 10 mins flat. I was in 8th class back then.
however with older models where breaks were weaker, it could have happened.
my uncle once drove his m800 all the way to ahmedabad!! there was smoke coming from rear wheels and the mechanism was growing red hot.
but the sight was nothing compared to face of my uncle! we must have laughed 10 mins flat. I was in 8th class back then.
Common mistake amongst never drivers, you will get used to it eventually!
As many others are saying, you can wear out your rear brakes and clutch, but that aside you could also end up stretching or snapping the handbrake cable. Not a terrifying or expensive job, but it can be a bit nerve-wracking when you have to park on a hill and discover your Handbrake isn't working!![[frustration]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Frustration.gif "Frustration [frustration]")
Have you tried eBay? The people in China are selling a lot of useful stuff online!
As many others are saying, you can wear out your rear brakes and clutch, but that aside you could also end up stretching or snapping the handbrake cable. Not a terrifying or expensive job, but it can be a bit nerve-wracking when you have to park on a hill and discover your Handbrake isn't working!
I was planning to DIY this stuff a long time ago, to purchase an aftermarket seatbelt warning buzzer and connect it to the (!) light circuit. But its still in planning stage I have no idea where to lookout for parts in pune![[angry]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Rage.gif "Rage [angry]")
, I especially want that "tang tang tang" seatbelt buzzer which is fitted in i'20's.
, I especially want that "tang tang tang" seatbelt buzzer which is fitted in i'20's.
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If we drive with the park brake engaged for some 100 km or so the wheel hub will heat up and will turn red hot.
Same will happen to the wheel disc, and if it is a tube tyre then the tube will blast.
And if it is tubeless too it may turn flat on more kms.
But i think 4 to 5 kms do not do any damage to the whole system.
100km is an imaginary figure it may even happen in 20kms
Same will happen to the wheel disc, and if it is a tube tyre then the tube will blast.
And if it is tubeless too it may turn flat on more kms.
But i think 4 to 5 kms do not do any damage to the whole system.
100km is an imaginary figure it may even happen in 20kms
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I hate to disagree, but the tolerances of both tube and tubeless tyres are wide enough to handle the increase in pressure experienced by the heat from the locked brakes, and if anything this is will lead to an apparent overinflation rather than a flat tyre.
Not because of the air pressure bro,
The wheel disc will turn red hot along with the wheel hub,when the rear brake is engaged for some kms.
As a result the tube will blow and on tubeless tyres the edges attached to the wheel disk will melt resulting to a flat tyre.
Just imagine a tyre attached to red hot wheel disk.
Viru check your wheel disc after a normal 50kms continuous drive on normal braking.
I bet you will feel it hot and that hot that you will pull back your hand in 5 seconds.
This heat will only increase the air pressure as you posted but heat which can turn the hub and disk red hot can blast a tube.
Bro it is on extreme condition i hope no one will drive to that extreme with the brakes engaged.
Hope you got the point.
The wheel disc will turn red hot along with the wheel hub,when the rear brake is engaged for some kms.
As a result the tube will blow and on tubeless tyres the edges attached to the wheel disk will melt resulting to a flat tyre.
Just imagine a tyre attached to red hot wheel disk.
Viru check your wheel disc after a normal 50kms continuous drive on normal braking.
I bet you will feel it hot and that hot that you will pull back your hand in 5 seconds.
This heat will only increase the air pressure as you posted but heat which can turn the hub and disk red hot can blast a tube.
Bro it is on extreme condition i hope no one will drive to that extreme with the brakes engaged.
Hope you got the point.
Do you have any idea how much heat is required to even soften the rubber in tyres? Since you don't let me tell you it's a LOT! More than can ever pass through the assembly between the disc brake and the wheel itself, that is how they were designed in the first place, or to be more specific that's how the specific metals and structures used in them were chosen!
Trust me, I have been a part of 3 rally teams before and I am perfectly familiar with heat buildup in brake discs, but you also have to realise that the isolated nature of the disc from the wheel was designed specifically to limit the heat transfer. This is why no matter how much you thrash your brakes, you will never feel significant heat buildup in the wheel itself.
Trust me, I have been a part of 3 rally teams before and I am perfectly familiar with heat buildup in brake discs, but you also have to realise that the isolated nature of the disc from the wheel was designed specifically to limit the heat transfer. This is why no matter how much you thrash your brakes, you will never feel significant heat buildup in the wheel itself.
I think you are posting with the brake rotor in mind which is very well isolated from the wheel disk, but at the rear in cars with liners and hub the wheel disk is directly fitted over the hub.
And as i said on extreme conditions if the hub turns red hot then the disk will too as it is attached directly to the hub.
And do not relate a rally to this thing a driver who uses more brakes on a rally, well i do not want to go in that depth.
The bikers in the forum may understand what i am trying i guess.
A race down hill on a highrange, hope everyone at one age had tried it.
We can see the rear hub of the guy in front of you red hot.
Wheel disk : Where the Tyre is fitted
Wheel hub : where the rear liners apply to brake the car
Brake Disk(rotor) : where the brake pads apply (which comes at the front on most of the cars)
Please do not get confused on the Brake disk and wheel disk.
And as i said on extreme conditions if the hub turns red hot then the disk will too as it is attached directly to the hub.
And do not relate a rally to this thing a driver who uses more brakes on a rally, well i do not want to go in that depth.
The bikers in the forum may understand what i am trying i guess.
A race down hill on a highrange, hope everyone at one age had tried it.
We can see the rear hub of the guy in front of you red hot.
Wheel disk : Where the Tyre is fitted
Wheel hub : where the rear liners apply to brake the car
Brake Disk(rotor) : where the brake pads apply (which comes at the front on most of the cars)
Please do not get confused on the Brake disk and wheel disk.
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I really hope you're not trying to apply the same concepts as motorcycles to cars, because although the basics are the same, the mechanisms are entirely different! A motorcycle does not have nearly the same level of heat isolation as a car, simply due to space restrictions. In a car with the brakes locked, the only source of heat is the brake disc/drum itself, as caused by the friction between the locked brakes and the rotating wheel. It is nigh on impossible for this heat to cause the wheel to collect head, and even less likely for this to heat up the hub! And when you're saying "Wheel hub" what you are trying to refer to is actually the "Brake drum". As I'm sure you're aware there's a difference between Disc brakes and Drum brakes. The hub is actually the centermost part of a wheel assembly, it contains bearings to facilitate the rotational motion of the wheel, brake disc/drum, etc. while connecting them to the axle.
Ps. What you are referring to as a "Wheel disk" is actually the rim itself.
And anyways, drum brakes are less susceptible to heating than non-ventilated discs as found on most small indian cars.
Rally cars' brakes undergo massive punishment, we almost have to replace them after each stage of the race, yet there is absolutely no heating of any part of the wheel assembly due to this!
Ps. What you are referring to as a "Wheel disk" is actually the rim itself.
And anyways, drum brakes are less susceptible to heating than non-ventilated discs as found on most small indian cars.
Rally cars' brakes undergo massive punishment, we almost have to replace them after each stage of the race, yet there is absolutely no heating of any part of the wheel assembly due to this!
You maybe interested to read this thread. http://www.theautomotiveindia.com/f...-brand-new-wagon-r-clutch-burnt-3000-kms.html
We were told by MASS that driving with HB engaged for even couple of KMs can be the simple reason to burn the clutch.
Here is how I do it. Not sure whether it's the best practice, but I have never committed that mistake.
Engage HB always and whenever I stop even at signals to relax my legs from Clutch & Brake. While moving, engage to 1st gear and release the HB to move. This way, 2 things. Car don't roll back or forth and HB is released before moving out.
I wonder, when I see many people stepping on the brakes while waiting in the signal and even jams for hours. And sometimes, without realizing that the took their foot off the brake, the roll down and kiss the other cars too![[clap]](https://www.theautomotiveindia.com/forums/images/smilies/Clap.gif "Clap [clap]")
10 KMs is quite big. I am wondering how did you manage, even to over take other vehicles.
You may have look at the thread I have shared. Perhaps, not to ignore that MASS would have played a trick to save a faulty clutch assembly.
We were told by MASS that driving with HB engaged for even couple of KMs can be the simple reason to burn the clutch.
Here is how I do it. Not sure whether it's the best practice, but I have never committed that mistake.
Engage HB always and whenever I stop even at signals to relax my legs from Clutch & Brake. While moving, engage to 1st gear and release the HB to move. This way, 2 things. Car don't roll back or forth and HB is released before moving out.
I wonder, when I see many people stepping on the brakes while waiting in the signal and even jams for hours. And sometimes, without realizing that the took their foot off the brake, the roll down and kiss the other cars too
10 KMs is quite big. I am wondering how did you manage, even to over take other vehicles.
You may have look at the thread I have shared. Perhaps, not to ignore that MASS would have played a trick to save a faulty clutch assembly.
@all
guys my friend experienced a tube blast on his 800 because of the engaged park brake.
he himself found the wheel disk red hot after the blast.
so beware it may happen on extreme conditions,
Experience shared with less technicality so please forgive.
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