Hyundai Fluidic Verna 1.6 (2012) CRDi EX: 81,000+ Kms

[VISHNUCARCRAZY]

I occasionally drive in High ranges (Hilly regions ) , and what I have felt is most doesn't know engine braking , as well as how to approach a curve . What these fellows do is take all the hairpins more like U turns.
Quite recently , on such a drive , saw a Honda City Idtec VX , emitting hot smoke from its front wheels (It was a deep descend after an ascend ) , this fellow had descended in higher gear , and had used the brakes extensively, he got scared . I was in my friends Merc E class , and we descended using hill descend control , so we didn't find any issue . Even if I was in swift I generally prefer to descend gradually in lower gear , making use of engine braking and minimising brake use .
Same with taking curves , (I remember studying Optimum velocity & Banking of road ) , atleast one should have basic common sense , its a curve slow and take the curve . Saying from Physics perspective , always inner curve is shorter , some fellows generally as Mr.Vijay Sir told , dig into other lane and take curve and high chances of accidents .
Most Bus drivers know well to take curves (Hairpins) , they generally stick to their lanes , what happens is , the one who doesn't know to take the curve , by taking the other lane , creates trouble for the bus . Either the bus will slam brakes and thereby a rear collision in bus , else he will collide with the one in front who created the mess

 

[vijay_968]

I occasionally drive in High ranges (Hilly regions ) , and what I have felt is most doesn't know engine braking , as well as how to approach a curve . What these fellows do is take all the hairpins more like U turns.
Quite recently , on such a drive , saw a Honda City Idtec VX , emitting hot smoke from its front wheels (It was a deep descend after an ascend ) , this fellow had descended in higher gear , and had used the brakes extensively, he got scared . I was in my friends Merc E class , and we descended using hill descend control , so we didn't find any issue . Even if I was in swift I generally prefer to descend gradually in lower gear , making use of engine braking and minimising brake use .
Same with taking curves , (I remember studying Optimum velocity & Banking of road) , atleast one should have basic common sense , its a curve slow and take the curve . Saying from Physics perspective , always inner curve is shorter , some fellows generally as Mr.Vijay Sir told , dig into other lane and take curve and high chances of accidents .
Most Bus drivers know well to take curves (Hairpins) , they generally stick to their lanes , what happens is , the one who doesn't know to take the curve , by taking the other lane , creates trouble for the bus . Either the bus will slam brakes and thereby a rear collision in bus , else he will collide with the one in front who created the mess

I wonder "what was on your mind seeing that smoke from the front wheels of City" !!! Thanks for sharing it here, Vishnu ; will help educate others... 60kph comes up in quicktime during downhill drives and inexperienced drivers struggle there. 3rd or 4th Gear is like KING with FULL CONTROL for downhill drives. Luckily, an Expert taught me "Stick to Thy Lane and Neutral NEVER" w.r.to "Driving in Ghats".


About the Inner Lane at Curves : There is some misconception among some drivers about taking Curves. Let us say two Nanos doing same speed enter a Curve in a 2 + 2 Lane NH; one is in inner and the other is outer lane. Centripetal Force (GpF) acts on both Nanos to keep them on respective curved paths. This GpF is inversely proportional to the radius, i.e., one will experience MORE G Force while on the inner Lane at Curves. GpF is also directly proportional to square of velocity; GpF increases four times, if driver doubles Car speed at Curve. Much MOOOOOOOORE G force on Car and occupants, as speed increases in the inner Lane. If on LEFT turning Curve, keeping "to the right WITHIN inner Lane" will increase Radius and thus reduce G Force. Does it mean the inner lane is BAD ????

Basically the misconception starts HERE. We studied in School that there is one Centrifugal Force (CfF) acting on the opposite direction of CpF !!! This CfF fellow also has same relation with radius and velocity and pulls a Car away from Curve's center point. The Nano on the inner lane will be pulled out towards the outer lane and Nano on the outer lane will be pulled towards the Center Median. Sooooo, with BOTH CpF and CfF equal in magnitude, which wins ???

The Road imperfectoins decide THAT. As Vishnu pointed out, "Banking (titlting) of Roads" is done to keep the vehicles ON THE ROAD. But, uneven block of Tar might act as the opposite of "Banking" and Vehicles with higher GC may loose control on Curves quickly ... I, driving a low slung Sedan have experienced being pulled OUT towards Median, while on the outer lane, on Flat Curves (when the Curve is NOT Banked). SUVs BEWARE. Summary below:

• At Curves, Inner Lane is better left to vehicles with low GC or low CG ... GC-Groud Clearance / GC-Center of Gravity.
• Do remember, G Force is MORE in the INNER LANE. Passengers might complain.
• For ALL vehicles, it is de Best is to Leg-OFF (drop speed) while entering a Curve and Leg-ON at the peak of Curve (to exit Curve at speed).

 

[VISHNUCARCRAZY]

Just adding a point to my previous post , the issue is mainly with SUV newbies , they generally don't know to judge their left side of vehicle and they tend to take outer lane more .

Vijay sir , You just explained my thought precisely .

 

[vijay_968]

On 21st Feb, the Odo read 77,777 km and i was fortunate to notice it. Here is the Click.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<+++++++++>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

"2008 Honda Civic 1.8 AT" Driven :
Two days later, i was able to compare the performance of my 2012 Verna with a 2008 Honda Civic AT. On 23rd, i went with one of my Company Seniors to somewhere near Namakkal, in his well maintained 2008 Honda Civic AT. He had bought it pre-owned some 4-5 years ago. While returning, he felt bit sleepy, and i grabbed the opportunity gleefully, drove it for about 150 km and crossed these milestones :

1. First time i drove an Automatic Car since i learnt 4W driving in 1998 :-)
2. First time i drove a Petrol Car for more than 25 odd km, in 6+ years :-)
3. First time i drove a Honda for such a long distance since i learnt driving :-)
4. First time i drove a Performance D-Segment Sedan for such a long distance :-)

SOLVED - Mystery of "Humming Sound coming from the car's under-body : Earlier in THIS thread i reported of "low volume humming sound coming from my Verna's under-body (link) . At few places on the NH after crossing Hosur, i heard the same sound in Civic. When i inquired, Senior became sort of Grim; and said he hears this sound exactly over where i hear in my Verna near my area EVEN TODAY. Then i gave him my "traveling sound waves - reverberations - resonance under Car" Theory. He felt relieved. Me too happy... Point is my friends are driving rattling boxes and hence NOT hearing this sound. Verna and Civic are super quite inside and we could hear the sound

The CIVIC feel: As Hyundai kitted my Verna really well, the FEEL of "stepping inside a D-Segment Sedan" was missing. Of course, i feel the same getting inside a Corolla. From the drivers view, the Civic felt much wider than it actually is, due to the sleek dash layout.

The Comfort: Civic's Rear Seats = Total Comfort. PERIOD. But, the Front Seats fared poorer than my Verna; (1) the sitting position was lower (2) my knees were pushed UP (resulting in reduced "under-thigh support"), i kept sifting in my seat and finally decided to quit after 150 km (3) in Verna, swinging "both my legs in and out together" is breeze; in Civic's front seats, i could swing ONLY one-leg-at-a-time. But Civic's Front seats are wider with better "lumbar support". This Civic was on 195/65/R15 tyres Vs my Verna's 185/65/R15. i normally hear a very mild "Chachak chachak chachak" Sound and feel it too, while crossing between "adjacent Cement Blocks / tarred sections" on Bridges. Exact feeling and sound was felt in Civic too. i think the Ground Clearance of both Cars could be nearly same and i managed to drive Civic w/o scrapping those aweful speed bumps at Toll Plazas.

Brakes: i was unable to precisely control Civics brakes in a way i am used to in my Verna. While approaching Toll Plaza (or Speed Bumps), in Verna i normally gently push brakes and the last byte to stop won't rattle anyone. In Civic, the last byte suddenly came up and threw stuff in the rear seat onto the Floor. may be my left leg (reaching for the non-existing clutch) touched the brake pedal - i am not sure but there is a high probability as this happened 4-5 times more ... i might need more time to master Civic's brakes.

The Drive: Coming out of the Restaurant's Parking Lot, we were smack in the 3pm traffic on "Salem bypass Road / Ring Road". My Senior doesn't like "Paddle Shift Mode" and i settled for the regular "D Mode" all throughout the Drive. My apprehensions due to "Civic's extra width and length" soon disappeared, and i realised that "2W drivers who would drive bit closer to my Verna were now driving bit away from the Civic" Power of "D-Segment" perhaps ???
In traffic, "my left hand KEPT reaching for the Gear Lever" and i kept stupidly grinning. Yet, it took me nearly 15-18 kms to adjust my self to the Civic AT's behavior; my left hand and leg were just chillax-ing :-) In Traffic and on the Highwasy, Civic's AT Box worked "as if an experienced chauffeur was shifting gears inside it" --- there were "ZERO head nods and almost zero Body movements". IMPRESSIVE-Oh.
I think this Civic's 1.8 Liter Petrol engine produces between 132 to 140 bhp (Senior doesn't know) ; that means Civic's bhp/Ton ratio should be higher than my Verna. But, i didn't feel THAT extra power in outright acceleration --- may be i was NOT burrying the pedal or may be it was due to the "Digital meter NOT showing Real Time Speed" or it may be due to NOT using the Paddle Shift of AT Box. Whatever, it is a (1) 11 year old Car, (2) a Senior's Car :-) and so i decided NOT to push it too much. The max i touched was 127 kph during those 150 km.
In Verna, before i overtake something at 120 kph, i drop down a gear and "shoot past the vehicle in a jiffy"... Civic took more time :-( i am to be blamed for NOT using the Paddle Shifters, of course...
BUT throwing a Sedan around Ghats is FUN, No ?! we hit the Thoppur Ghat Section, i PROMPTLY pushed the Civic; though an AT, the Civic was impressive. One XUV500, one Duster, one Scala (was this Scala guy really serious ??!!?? ), few Swifts tried to keep pace, but the Civic left them ALL BEHIND. i was grinning and my senior too was grinning. Why SHOULD YOUNG BOYS have all the fun; we oldies want share

CONCLUSION: My next car, if and when it comes will be an AUTOMATIC with minimum 110 bHP/Ton

 

[bhvm]

Nice Experience. ATs always feel strange for us MT folks. Its better to drive it with ONE foot otherwise this clutch sharp brake thing happens.

 

[vijay_968]

Gave car for 80,000 km service last month with Odo at 80,639 km.
Parts amounted to Rs. 7,831 and Lbr was Rs. 9,183. Total service cost was Rs. 17,015
The SA said something, but i simply forgot what that Rs 2,354/- worth of "other outside job" in 1st Pg is for

Trident called me in advance saying that Service Cost would be around Rs 9,000 PLUS. Service was arranged on a Sunday (5th May 2019). A very nice driver came home to pick the car, then SA called and said Verna reached Trident A$$. SA called again and gave Rs. 15,000 as estimate for Service. He declared that the rear brake shoes were very good; those were REPLACED by a good roadside mechanic in Kerala during my trip to Kadampuzha Bhagavathy Amman Temple {Post # 122 in this thread here --- at (4) under Dull moments}. i gave go ahead. i needed the Car before 4pm and it was delivered promptly at my home before 4pm. i checked the Lights, indicators, horn etc and paid.

Funny thing is, i rarely use Horn nowadays and both Horns needed to be replaced for Rs. 598/- . Car has been running smoothly and crossed 81,000 km.
Posting the 'two page' Bill for Ref below:

i met with a micro accident on 18th June 2019. Not even a scratch on the Car, but a biker fell down on the road and sustained injuries. i took him to Hospital, treated him and then both visited a Police Stn and matter is settled there; as of now i spent about Rs 1,600 for his treatment and nothing else. Will elaborate about it a little later, as "How he got injured" is rather intriguing to me. The whole incidence might help others to know what to do in such cases to avoid potential FUTURE trouble. Pls wait for it.

Thanks for reading. 'Bye for now.

 

[VISHNUCARCRAZY]

The service bill is 75% essentials and 25% ripoff - Especially Brake jobs , if you have good rapport with SA , he won't charge you even for calliepr pin greasing , he may include the same in routine labour (In case of periodic maintenance service ) , also in my friend's petrol verna , we do the front and rear job , for 300rs (Billed just calliper pin greasing ) , as we have great rapport with our SA ,and he is also a honest person , he won't do unnecessary jobs (You can go through my thread - Unnecessary Bill hiking elements )

 

[allhyundaicars]

You should call him back to know what that outer job mean.
I noticed that they used 15w40 instead of 5w30 and I think it's because of the 80k kms. It's good.

Also whenever you give car for servicing ask for at least 10% discounts on labor and parts , they will happily give you.

 

[vijay_968]

After Pic-2 in Post # 141 above, i mentioned about a a micro accident. Posted the events in detail with Pictures in the TAI thread "How to React immediately after involving in Accident?" at the Link here.

The service bill is 75% essentials and 25% ripoff - Especially Brake jobs , if you have good rapport with SA , he won't charge you even for calliepr pin greasing , he may include the same in routine labour (In case of periodic maintenance service ) , also in my friend's petrol verna , we do the front and rear job , for 300rs (Billed just calliper pin greasing ) , as we have great rapport with our SA ,and he is also a honest person , he won't do unnecessary jobs (You can go through my thread - Unnecessary Bill hiking elements )

Thanks for the info. Lanor for "Fuel Injector cleaning and Calliper pin greasing" were discounted and is so mentioned in the Bill. Neverthless i will talk to them next time during 90K and 100K Services. Once 1,00,000 km service is done, i might try GoBumper or something like that. Any comments on that ?

You should call him back to know what that outer job mean.
I noticed that they used 15w40 instead of 5w30 and I think it's because of the 80k kms. It's good.

Also whenever you give car for servicing ask for at least 10% discounts on labor and parts , they will happily give you.

I was given Rs 1,050 discount in Labor this time; works out to be 6%. Next time will demand for 15% discount . Lets see how much i get next time. Thank you for the suggestion.

 

[allhyundaicars]

I don't think you were given 1050rs discount. The bardhal injector cleaner they used is poured in the fuel tank itself. Or did they remove the Injectors completely and cleaned it ?
I agree about the discount given on the caliper pin greasing but I think since they removed the tyres for balancing they greased it then hence the discount.

 

[vijay_968]

Updated Post # 001 (link) in this thread, on Moderator Vibhor's advice. Pls give suggestions for improvements.

 

[vijay_968]

i request Members to kindly comment on these:

Forward Gear Problems:
(1) On a recent 1,250km drive, i noticed that gears were NOT engaging instantly ; i don't exactly remember the shift pattern, but it was there BETWEEN GEARS, both UP & DOWN; even for "N to 1st"... "1st to 2nd" ... "3rd to 4th"... "5th to 3rd" ... "3rd to 2nd" etc. Only 5th to 6th went in smooth ALWAYS. It was NOT that i had trouble shifting every-time; gear shifting was perfectly NORMAL, but suddenly the gear would NOT engage... I had to push lever to neutral position and then engage the intended gear, while on the move. Due to this occasional trouble, i decided NOT to make my daughter drive.
(2) In total, over the 1,250 km round trip, this forward gear problem was observed some 40-50 times; some 5 to 8 times in the return leg of ~ 620 km (problem occured mostly during the onward trip). At the destination, Verna was in Hotel Parking Lot and no body touched it for 2 days.

Reverse Gear Problems:
(1) About 2/3rd into the drive, i gave car to the Valet Parking attendant; when he shifted to reverse, i heard a "kkirrr ... kkirrr ... kkirrr sound" coming from the Car. I told attendant to PULL-UP the chrome button on the Gear Lever BEFORE moving the Lever for Reverse. He did and this time no sound.
(2) Later we resumed the journey and reached our destination. i "pulled-up first and then shifted the Lever", but the "kkirrr ... kkirrr ... kkirrr sound" came. It was pronounced that those nearby turned to look at the Car. I moved the Car forward by few inches and reversed, it engaged without any noise.
(3) While returning to home, used Reverse Gear at few places, and it engaged without any sound.

Steering Problems:
The first 460km of the Return Journey was pretty smooth. A little distance after crossing Dharmapuri, suddenly i felt the STEERING was NOT PRECISE above 140 kph. I found some PLAY around the Center; quickly I dropped speed and started my own testing on straights. I found that STEERING was PERFECT till 130kph and the PLAY occurred above 140kph. Limited my speeds to 110 kph for the remaining 160 odd km; Drive was smooth and reached home at 1:00 am.

My Queries to TAI Members:
(a) Odo crossed 83,000 km. Been driving Car for past 4 days without any issues in slotting into ANY Gear. i would like to hear your views on WHY did the "Forward & Reverse Gear Problems" occur ?
(b) What could be the REASON for STEERING Problem ? Calibration ??
(c) i plan to ask the Service Center look at the Car. At this 83,000km Odo reading, is it better to continue with Hyundai A$$ or something like Pitstop etc ?

i request Members to kindly comment on above. Thanks in advance.

 

[VISHNUCARCRAZY]

Gear shift issue - I think its related with synchroniser / synchroniser rings.
But it can be also due to Clutch (Did you find clutch pedal to be hard ) , and also , did you find a braking issue (more pressure on pedal to brake )- if the latter is the issue , you may do a clutch bleeding (air bleeding ) , I think in Hhundai's , brake fluid and clutch fluid , both are linked via common Master cylinder.

 

[vijay_968]

Gear shift issue - I think its related with synchroniser / synchroniser rings.
But it can be also due to Clutch (Did you find clutch pedal to be hard ) , and also , did you find a braking issue (more pressure on pedal to brake )- if the latter is the issue , you may do a clutch bleeding (air bleeding ) , I think in Hhundai's , brake fluid and clutch fluid , both are linked via common Master cylinder.

Clutch Pedal operation was light and smooth. Typical Hyundai's light clutch.
Brake was as usual - regular effort resulting in correct bite. ABS too kicked in normally (on few occasions while returning) with vibrations felt in the Pedal.

It has become more intriguing. Nevertheless, i will check with the Service Guys.

 

[bhvm]

this forward gear problem was observed some 40-50 times; some 5 to 8 times in the return leg of ~ 620 km (problem occured mostly during the onward trip). At the destination, Verna was in Hotel Parking Lot and no body touched it for 2 days.

I suggest you change Gear oil and add Liqui Moly gear additive with new oil.

REASON for STEERING Problem ? Calibration ??

Hit a pothole?
These issues are generally Alignment and Balancing rather than Steering itself.

WHY did the "Forward & Reverse Gear Problems" occur ?

Hyundai has a design defect with Gears. Esp reverse.

On my i10, Engaging reverse is not smooth.
If you slot into 1st then reverse, it engages properly.
Many cars at ASC have this issue. Head Mech said its by design.