Road Trip: Pune – Rajasthan – Pune

[GrandRk]

It was almost 2 years when I last visited Rajasthan. That time due to shortage of days I have just covered Chittorgarh and Jaipur. The western part of Rajasthan was still in my bucket list. This time got 14 days in hand hence decided why not go and complete remaining Rajasthan. When some region comes in mind then it keeps revolving in mind until you go and see it.

My friends: “Are you mad to go to Rajasthan in this heat?”
My family: “Are the days sufficient to cover everything in Rajasthan”
My mind: “If not now than when?”

Keeping my mind ahead of everything I started planning itinerary of Rajasthan. As usual after few changes I decided to do Udaipur – Jodhpur – Jaisalmer – Bikaner. The movie “Border” has made some impression on me hence going ahead I also added Tanot and Longewala to my itinerary.

It took some time for me to do route plan and select points of interest. Rajasthan is so huge, there are so many things to explore. We were ready after finalizing everything to explore “Rangilo Rajasthan”. We started our journey on wee hours of 16th March 2019.

Day 1:

After a short prayer started our car at 5:15am from Pune towards Mumbai-Pune expressway. Early start is always good in traffic born cities like Pune. We crossed Chandani Chowk and were zooming towards expressway. There was sparse truck traffic till expressway. I honked to 2-3 trucks while overtaking as they occupy all lanes. The similar scene came after few kilometres, I honked but there was no sound. I again honked but the sound did not come. I felt something has gone wrong with horn pad. I tried pressing it from every dimension but failed to make sound. Somehow, we reached expressway. It was still dark outside, there were closed garage in sight. We were approaching Khalapur toll plaza on expressway where suddenly the horn started to make sound. A sigh of relief!!

In no time we crossed Thane and joined NH48 near Ghodbunder. The horn went kaput again. The garages and mechanics are very sparse on highways as they are located inside cities. Leaving highway and searching them inside city will be time consuming job hence decided to drive without horn till Halol which was planned target for the day.

In couple of hours we left Maharashtra and entered Gujarat. This was the first time my car has touched Gujarat. Roads in Gujarat are fantastic with ample amount of restaurant and fuel facilities. We encountered a bit of truck traffic from Vasai Creek onwards. Driving without honking is seriously a different skill.

We smoothly reached Ankleshwar for lunch, it was so early than we thought. After glancing map came to know that its hardly 2-3hours more to target Halol. We were having some hours with us to either explore something on the way or to enter city and fix the horn. After driving so many kilometres without horn I now became used to it hence decide to explore something.

Thought of viewing recently built largest statue of world “Statue Of Unity” came into mind. Google maps asked us to leave NH48 and move towards Statue Of Unity via Rajpipla. I was now driving car towards Sardar Sarovar Dam. The roads were in mixed state.

First view of statue from road

There is a police check post where i took turn towards statue. They stopped us to tell that private cars are not allowed. One needs to take ticket from ticket counter which is located 1.5 kms from there in opposite direction and come by their dedicated bus. I obeyed and turned my car towards ticket counter. There is ample amount of parking space available near ticket counter. The ticket includes charges of their to and fro bus as well. These are hopping AC buses which runs from parking to statue and back.

This is the view we got when we were dropped by bus.

A little close up

There are good facilities for tourist near statue. The statue is having museum beneath it, they have showcased historical details.

There is lift inside statue which takes you to the top from where you can have panoramic view of Narmada valley. There is paid chopper ride around statue for interested one. You can see a chopper in this picture.

After viewing Statue Of Unity, we headed back to parking. It was nearing sunset on banks on Narmada river when we started towards Halol.

 

[GrandRk]

Day 2:

This was the day when we will enter Rajasthan. Very excitedly we woke up and got ready for journey. I got down into hotel parking and without dusting my car I first pressed horn pad… Voila!! It made” Beep Beep” sound. Along with some sigh of relief we headed towards Udaipur. The roads were good till Samalaji with occasional truck traffic between Modasa and Samalaji section.

When we reached Samalaji we came across heavy truck traffic. It was “Chok -O-Block” situation for some time.

There is road widening work in progress between Samalaji and Udaipur, but one can still drive here comfortably. The facilities are very less in this section till Udaipur. Lot of cattle on road so one needs to be careful.

Spotted this Haryana truck with some cloths tied to it.

In afternoon itself we entered former capital of Mewar Kingdom – Udaipur. My car has entered second time into Rajasthan. “Padharo Mhare Des”

In evening we decided to visit Lake Pichola. I loved the traffic and roads inside Udaipur city. They are well marked with sparse traffic and good signage. There is road side free parking for car near Lake Pichola.

First view of Lake Pichola

Royal boat cruising in lake

Boating facility is available in Lake Pichola which one should not miss. The lake area can be properly explored while boating.

First view of City Palace

Taj Lake Palace

One more luxurious hotel in lake – Jagmandir

Full view of richness - Taj Lake Palace with City Palace as backdrop

The other side of lake was having a small lake named Dudh Talai.

"Padharo Mhare Desh"

Our next location for the day was “Bagore Ki Haweli” where they showcase Cultural music and dance show along with puppet show. I was already well informed that roads to reach this haveli are very crowdy and narrow which makes simply impossible for cars to reach there. Hence decided to keep car at Lake Pichola itself and head to Haveli by auto.

The auto left main road and entered interior streets which were as expected very narrow, steep and crowdy. Lots of two wheelers in these narrow streets, honking was to glory (somehow, I remembered my yesterdays “No honk” drive)

Bagore Ki Haweli is next to Gangaur ghat where autos drop you. One can have view of Hotel Lake Pichola and few other hotels lined on the bank of lake.

Gate of Gangaur Ghat

Bagore Ki Haweli

Haweli from inside

This haveli is having museum within it, but by the time we reached there the museum was closed. They were issuing tickets for cultural program which starts at 7pm. We took the tickets and had Indian traditional seating at the first row of stage. There were many foreigner tourists along with us.

The haweli was lit with colorful lights in evening

The crowd kept on increasing and haveli was getting full. The cultural program started with “Padharo Mhare Des” song. It feels nice to listen this song in Rajasthan. Different types of dance performance happened and at last there was puppet show as well.

Mind it!! She is 73 years old!!

Look of Haweli in night

Gangaur ghat in evening

To get proper night view of Lake Pichola we headed for dinner in nearby rooftop restaurant. The ambience in this restaurant was not that great but lake view was stunning.

Hotel Lake Pichola in night

Till arrival of food I tried capturing photos of lake doing random setting in my mobile. Hotel Lake Pichola in different setting (As usual forgot the setting)

With same setting took a click of City Palace as well but it did come something like this

Meanwhile our ordered food arrived. After having our dinner, we caught auto back to parking. The parking was deserted by this time, hardly few bikes were there and one more car. We took our car and reached hotel.

Day 3:

We headed to famous City palace on this day. There is government parking lot near City palace with nominal fee of Rs.20 for 2 hours. One can park the car inside city palace as well but with whopping Rs.250 as parking charge. We parked our car at government parking ground and headed to ticket counter of City palace which is hardly 200 metres away from parking.

There are different tickets for different things in city palace.
1) Common complex entry (Rs.30/adult and Rs.15/kid). Museum entrance ticket inclusive of camera (Rs.300/adult and Rs.100/Child)
2) Crystal Gallery ticket (Rs.700/adult and Rs.450/child). Vintage & Classic car collection (Rs.350/adult and Rs.200/child)
3) Lunch / Dinner at Garden hotel coupon (Rs.250/adult and Rs.175/child)
4) Regular boat ride between 10am to 2pm (Rs.450/adult and Rs.230 per child).
5) Sunset Boat ride 3pm to 5pm (Rs.800/adult and Rs.450/child)

They don’t accept cards, you need to pay everything in cash. We gone for option 1.

City Palace

Entrance gate of City Palace

View of Lake Pichola

View of Udaipur city

Sheesh Mahal

Roof of sheesh mahal

Moti Mahal (Crystal Hall)

A sign of Suryavanshi

Amazing paintings done on wall

One more hall

This location is for hallmark photo which I have seen in many travelogues. This is view of Taj Palace from City palace.

The “Palkhis”

Temple of Mahrana Pratap Singh in palace campus

Palace as seen from inside

When we came out it was already 1pm. We reached car parking, the horn was dead again!! We headed for lunch at Udaipuri Restaurant. I came to know there is a garage near to restaurant where I can get my horn checked. After lunch I headed to garage, now the horn was blazing to its glory. Mechanic after checking horn advised to get it replaced. I was under impression that there is some malfunction in horn pad. Installed a new Roots Beep beep horn for Rs.500!!

It was 3pm by that time. We headed back to our hotel to take some rest. In evening we started again towards Fatehsagar lake which is famous for sunset.

My trusty near Fatehsagar lake

The lake area has ample and free parking. There is some 200-300 meters area where vehicles are prohibited. This area is used by locals for evening walks, jogging and kids’ activity. One can have evening stroll around neatly paved road of Fatehsagar lake. There were lot of local senior citizen groups doing chitchats, playing and enjoying near lake. (Life felt alive here)

Setting sun from Fatehsagar lake

One more click of sunset

There is one newly opened aquarium opposite lake named as “Under The Sun”. We decided to try it. I was surprised to see so many varieties of rarely seen fishes. The aquarium is nicely maintained, in one section you can also touch fish. I would recommend giving visit to this aquarium if one is near Fatehsagar lake.

We had some stomach full of chat and kulfis from nearby eatery before going back to our hotel.

 

[GrandRk]

Day 4:

After having sumptuous breakfast, we headed to Jodhpur. While making itinerary I have planned to visit Kumbhalgarh and Ranakpur on the way.

Udaipur bypass sees some crazy overtakes. The road from Udaipur to Jaswantgarh is good. From Jaswantgarh to Kumbhalgarh Fort it is state highway, post Syra village the road becomes narrow which passes through few other small villages. The road has broken tarmac as well as few huge speed humps in this section.

This is how locals travel

First view of Kumbhalgarh fort

Approach road to Kumbahlgarh

There is ample amount of paid parking place near Kumbhalgarh. After taking tickets we entered the gate where we saw this great view of fort.

The wall across fort is said to be worlds second largest when compared to China wall. There are few temples on this fort.

Valley as seen from fort

Vedi Temple where “Yagnya” were performed.

Neelkant Mahadev Temple which is 500 years old

The shivling in this temple is 10 feet in height

After exploring Kumbhalgarh fort we started to Ranakpur. On the way we came across this hotel which looked great in those hills,

Google map shown a short connecting road (Kamba to Moga) from Kumbalgarh fort to SH32 towards Ranakpur. The road was narrow, rocky with some of the steepest climbs (we were descending though).

From Moga to Ranakpur the road is state highway and quite wide. There were groups of monkeys on this road.

We reached Ranakpur to explore famous Jain temples. The location is beside road hence there is no need of any major detour. The security notes your car number and allows you inside. There is free and ample car parking place.

Ranakpur Jain Temples

Interiors of temple

After exploring temple and taking photographs we were back to our journey towards Jodhpur. The section from Pali to Jodhpur has some awesome straight roads with lot of facilities. On the way we came across famous Om Banna temple also known as “Bullet Baba Temple”. I have seen this in many travelogues, at last visited it!!

We entered Jodhpur by evening and went straight to our hotel. The traffic in Jodhpur is not so dense. Hardly few cars and great divided roads throughout the city. The junctions are designed with roundabouts. The only terrible thing is Jodhpur bypass which is single lane and dotted with truck traffic. There are some mighty speed breakers on bypass.

Day 5:

Woke up some chill in air. Rajasthan atmosphere seemed pleasant in March month. After breakfast we headed towards Mehrangarh Fort. The fort road is fantastic with proper managed parking places. There are three different parking places (buses, private cars and yellow board cars) near fort. The parking is ample where they take Rs.50 per car.

Fort as seen from parking

One can witness the mighty height of this fort

Model of Mehranghar fort

There is elevator in the fort for which one need to pay Rs.50 per person. The elevator takes you to 12th floor (top) from where you can start your fort tour. There are still 4 more floors which you need to climb.

Canon at the top of fort

One can see entire Jodhpur city from top. The far away structure which looks like Tajmahal is Umaid Bhavan Palace. You can see main market, Clock Tower (Ghanta Ghar), Gulabsagar lake from here.

Takhat Vilas (It has gold in its structure)

Sheesh Mahal

Moti Mahal

View of Blue City

Interiors of fort (It has café at its basement)

Few halls from outside which are closed for tourist

Handprints of “Satis” near Loha pol (I remembered seeing these in Jeep Compass Ad)

Cultural music of Rajasthan

There are many squirrels on fort

View of Ranisaar and Padmasaar lakes

View of fort from Chokhelao graden

There is a zipline activity present in this fort by “Flying Fox”. You can see below picture in which one foreigner is doing this activity

A step well like structure (you can also see ziplines above it)

Mehramgarh fort is huge. It takes almost 2 hours or more to explore it in relaxed way. There are many foreigner tourists in this fort. After exploring Mehrangarh we visited Jaswant Thada which is hardly a kilometre away from fort. They too have ample paid parking place in their campus.

Jaswant Thada

Cenotaphs

A local artist playing a song

We had our lunch in Jodhpur city after which we headed to Umaid Bhavan Palace. The palace is huge, but tourists are allowed only in museum as 80% of the palace is converted into luxurious hotel. I was thinking of having a cold coffee or some dessert in their HiFi restaurant, but they allow it only on strict reservation basis (first preference to their guest). The security person asked me to speak to restaurant manager from gate for reservation. When I spoked with him I came to know that due to Holi they won’t take reservation (surprised).

Umaid Bhavan Palace

Umaid Bhavan museum is not that interesting if one has seen museum in Mehrangarh fort or other museums of Rajasthan. They do have 11 vintage cars which are kept in glass, you need to stick your nose to that glass to get view of it (there is no light inside and outside sunlight glare makes the place darker)

One of the passage inside palace

We came back into hotel for afternoon rest. In evening we again headed to old city of Jodhpur which has Clock tower (Ghanta Ghar)

The autos I seen in Jodhpur are from different planet. They are very long in length and has some interesting structure.

We had some Samosas, Kachoris and Mirchi Bada in famous “Shahi Samosa” shop near clock tower. Then we headed to Mishrilal hotel to have their famous “Makhaniya Lassi”. This lassi is made from highly compressed curd and it tastes simply amazing (One glass for Rs.35)

Jodhpur market was hustling bustling as next day was Holi festival. We started walking through narrow streets to visit “Toorji Ka Jhalara”.

One can gauge how narrow the streets were in Jodhpur old city.

Rangilo Rajasthan

Jodhpuriya sweets for holi

Some interesting havelis structure on street

We reached “Toorji Ka Jhalara” which is step well and has ample amount of water in it. Locals dive into this well from some height which looks thrilling. We sat there for some time enjoying the scene. There are few catfishes in this well.

Toorji Ka Jhalara (Step Well)

Interesting structure in well

Locals diving in this well.

Just ahead of this step well has “RAAS Haveli” which is a fine dining hotel with heritage touch. We moved little ahead in opposite direction of step well near Gulabsagar lake. There is nothing here as such, this lake is very dirty and so is the surrounding. But we went here only to have below picture where one can see illuminated Mehranghar fort.

By this time, it was complete dark. We started walking back to Clock tower which was illuminated by this time

Illuminated Mehragarh as seen from clock tower market

Captured this Holis full moon while walking

Grabbed one more Makhaniya Lassi from Mishrilal along with Mawa Kachori which made our tummies full. We straightway went to hotel and ended the day.

 

[GrandRk]

Day 6:

We were ready and after having breakfast bid goodbye to Jodhpur. We now headed towards our next city which was “Jaisalmer”. While driving towards Jaisalmer we were witnessing change in geography. There was nothing visible in vicinity for long time, there was more amount of sand with some small dunes along roadside. One thing for sure that Rajasthan has some amazing road.

We reached Pokhran for lunch.

I causally inquired with hotel owner about nuclear test site location. It was near village named “Khetloi” but the area is restricted, even locals are also not allowed in this area.

The road from Pokhran to Jaisalmer is sleepy straight section, just need to watch out some wildlife crossing in between. We could see many desert lizards on road. There was once a heart in mouth situation as I need to steer my car at speed for 120 to avoid going on one of this lizard.

Sleepy straight road to Jaisalmer

Peacocks roaming freely near road.

Entrance to golden city of Rajasthan – Jaisalmer

There was city museum beside our hotel, hence thought of visiting it before heading to our hotel. The museum is very small which showcases coins, dresses, music equipment’s and cutleries from old era.

Plane in City Museum’s campus

We reached our hotel and relaxed for few hours. In evening we headed to Gadisar Lake. The parking place is neatly maintained but parking fee is Rs.50 (It includes parking for Patwaon Ki Haveli, Jaisalmer Fort and Gadisar Lake).

The gate named “Tilon Ki Pol” near Gadisar lake

Gadisar lake is having some old monuments and boating facility. It is a picturesque location. Lots of birds and catfishes in this lake.

Gadisar Lake

Monuments in lake

Ducks enjoying in lake

We took a pedal boat ride for half an hour to explore this lake. While coming back clicked this view.

We kept our car in Gadisar parking and started walking through narrow streets of Jaisalmer city towards Salim Singh Ki Haveli. I was well informed that there is just a small museum inside this haveli (we were not interested in visiting it). Hence just need to see this haveli from outside.

Salim Singh Ki Haveli

Came across this newly made Haveli like structure on this street.

Due to holi entire Jaisalmer shops and market was closed. We still found the famous “Kanchanshri Icecream parlour” open. Had some wonderful shakes, lassi and kulfis. The makhaniya lassi which we had here was no ways close to what we tasted in Jodhpur.

We reached our hotel, had light dinner and called for the day.

Day 7:

Jaisalmer was having a pleasant morning weather. After a good breakfast we headed out to explore Jaisalmer. As we gone few meters from our hotel we could see first view of Jaisalmer fort

The road to fort is somewhat bouncy with lot many boulders on it. The parking is on road where you need to park your vehicle by paying Rs.50. The cars are not allowed inside fort as the roads are steep and narrow, only two wheeler are permitted. This is one of the living forts where almost 5000 families stay.

As soon as you come out of car you will be surrounded by guides and auto rickshaw drivers. We somehow denied guide so half of the crowd went away, only auto drivers were there who were asking Rs.150 one way to reach atop fort (Canon Point). While bargaining with them I came to know that my front right tyre was flat!!!

I inquired to those drivers about puncture shop to which I came to know that there is one just half a meter ahead. Kept the car as it is and took auto (after bargaining Rs.200 up and down) inside fort.

The auto passed through some very narrowest road and dropped us at Canon point.

View of Jaisalmer city from Canon point

The fort is living fort hence lots of two-wheeler movement inside honking to their glory. Lots of stray cows wandering everywhere in narrow lanes. The roads are broken and dirty as well.
Once done with Canon point the autorickshaw took us few meters ahead to 450 years old haveli named “Baa-ri-Haveli”. This haveli is multi-storeyed with museum in it. One must climb the steep steps to explore entire haveli.

Few pictures taken inside haveli

Jain temples few meters away from Haveli

Ceiling inside temple

Carvings on the pillars of temple

Inner sanctum

There are 2-3 temples one beside other. You need to pay separate charge for photography inside it.

Ceiling design of another Jain temple

Inner sanctum of another temple

Lots of foreigner tourist at this location. There is famous Dusshera chowk few meters away from temples. This is centrally located open space where some shops are present. This chowk is used for celebration and festivals.

In this chowk stand Raja Ka Mahal which was also having museum. Now we were almost done with museums of Rajasthan hence did not opted to enter inside.

We then started to walk back to auto through narrow alleys having shops selling sarees, cloths, shoes, puppets etc.

Rangilo Rajasthan

That’s it’s with fort!! The auto took us back to parking. I once again confirmed about puncture shop and left auto. By this time the tourist flow was increased as a result parking space was getting filled. I decided to explore few famous Havleis nearby before taking my car out of parking. Once again went near front right tyre to check it. Now the tyre was completely flat!!

We walked some 300 meters in narrow alleys to reach Patwaon Ki Haveli. The roads inside Jaisalmer old city are not clean with lots and lots of stray cows on them. Patwaon Ki Haveli is not a single Haveli but it is bunch of five Havelis. Out of these five Havelis only two are open for visitors. One haveli is government undertaken where entrance is Rs.50 while second is privately managed at entrance of Rs.100 (this has museum).

We were not interested anymore for museum hence went to other haveli. This haveli is completely empty. As the haveli is under government hence there are few police who also work as guard. We were casually wandering inside the haveli (Here there is no touristy crowd). One of the police was friendly who showed us entire haveli with some mind-blowing details. We were the only tourist there hence entire Haveli was for us. At the end I offered some money to that police for explaining everything in detail, he denied saying that it felt good to show these things to someone who has interest in it.

Patwaon Ki Haveli

View of Jaisalmer fort from top of Haveli

With great satisfaction we left from there. On the way there was one more “Nathmalji Ki Haveli”. Once I thought that now its enough with Havelis, but family told that its in the way, so we can go there and then decide whether to enter it or not. After few meters of walking we reached to this Nathmalji Ki Haveli. One cannot go inside but can take photo from outside and there is a shop in it. We just took photo of Haveli from outside and moved on.

Nathmalji Ki Haveli

We came back to parking. I started the car and driven it slowly towards puncture shop. The puncture guy found the culprit which was 2inch nail. He also fixed one more leakage from old puncture. Total cost was Rs.200. We had late lunch near fort and straight away moved to our next destination.

There was no traffic on Jaisalmer road. We came out of main town in no time and straight away took road to Sam. The roads are good with sand beside and lots of open space around. The air now became humid. We took a short detour toward the heritage village – Kuldhara !!

My trusty and Kuldhara entrance

There is ample parking space in Kuldhara. Few foreigner tourists were along with us there as well. There are no eateries around.

Abandoned Kuldhara village

This village is advertised as a haunted village by Rajasthan Tourism. As per me it’s just hyped place, there is nothing haunted there. The village is abandoned hence its empty. The other side has just miles and miles of sand hence there are no houses and not a single soul in sight. If one is tight of schedule, then this location can be given a complete miss

Temple in Kuldhara

There is a sample Paliwal house created to show tourist how the houses were there in this village. We were there hardly for half an hour and started back our journey towards Sam. Once again, we were on arrow straight roads.

There are few Paragliding camps beside road as you near Sam.

Camels crossing

There is car entry fee into Sam. As soon as you enter Sam people will start waving and stopping you for Camel Safaris, Jeep Safaris, Stays etc. We have already booked our stay hence we kindly denied other service, but there were almost 4-5 visiting cards with me by this time as everyone was giving it to me.

Tent stay at Sam

In evening we went for Camel safari from our hotel. The camel guys take you to the dunes which starts at opposite side of road. The dunes are very big and spread is till horizon. This is a part of Thar desert.

Sam Dunes

Thar desert

The wind was very strong in this part which made a good pattern on sand. There are camel footprints as well

Close view of patterns on sand.

It was almost evening, sun was setting down

At night the hotel has arranged for cultural program and folk dance. But I would like to mention that the program which we attended in Bagore-Ki-Haveli in Udaipur was much more superior than this.

The local lady performing dance

The program was followed by Rajasthani dinner. I came a bit aside from that DJ sound and crowd where I could see full moon blazing over Thar desert.

Day 8:

Woke up a bit late just to witness the strong winds. Lots of sand particles were present in air. After having breakfast, we said good bye to Sam and moved towards Tanot. The roads are were empty and straight till Ramgarh.

There are no facilities anywhere till Ramgarh. After Ramgarh the roads are under BRO.

The area is under BSF hence there was lot of patrolling till Tanot.

There are sand dunes here as well but not a single soul in sight. We reached Tanot in afternoon. There is ample parking space near temple.

Tanot Mata temple is famous in this area. Had read about it and saw its reference in Bollywood movie “Border”. There are lots of sheep’s roaming in this area.

This temple is under BSF. When we arrived, there was “Aarati” performed by BSF staff.

These are few shells which Pakistan dropped on temple but surprisingly none of them exploded. They have collected it and kept it inside glass box.

BP609
To visit BP609 one must take prior permit at Jaisalmer BSF office. I went there when we arrived in Jaisalmer but due to recent strikes they have completely stopped issuing permit to civilians. This will continue till they get further order from their superiors. International border is somewhat 20Kms from Tanot Mata Temple.

At Tanot there is one small canteen with limited food options. After having food, we moved towards Longewala.

The road from Tanot to Longewala is made by BRO for their own movement, though they allow you to drive on it. There is a checkpost between where you need to enter your car details and show ID proof of every traveller accompanied with you.

Sandy roads, as they are designed for Army trucks

There is nothing around till your reach Longewala. In this entire section we hardly came across 2 vehicles that too one was army gypsy. At Longewala there is ample car parking space.

There is small museum where they have showcased different guns and its use.

They showed us small film about Longewala war in bunker. You can really feel what would have happened that war night. There were photos of war heroes who got sacrificed that night. One who has seen “Border” movie can relate the names of character. Salute to those heroes!!

A Pakistani tank captured by us.

Memorial of war heroes

Indo-Pak Border was around 15Kms from here. The area is strictly prohibited for civilians

While exiting from Longewala you must once again enter your car details and show ID proofs of everyone in your car. We moved back towards Jaisalmer via Ramgarh

Herds on road

Entrance to Bada Bagh (Royal cenotaphs) on the way towards Jaisalmer.

Bada Bagh as seen from road

The “Chattris”

The Cenotaphs

One pre-wedding photoshoot was ongoing when we were there

Cenotaphs made by the Muslim labour looks like tomb of masjid and those made by Hindu labour looks like temple.

We started moving towards Jaisalmer town. There are one more area of similar chattris known as “Vyas Chattri”. We did not stop here but just clicked it from road.

We reached our hotel in Jaisalmer. The climate was little bit humid in Jaisalmer. We came out for dinner where we could see Jaisalmer fort.

 

[GrandRk]

Day 9:

We woke up with good chirping sounds. After getting ready we bid goodbye to Jaisalmer city and started our journey towards Bikaner. On the way we visited “Jaisalmer War Museum”. They have also shown us a small film of war in their audio-visual room. If one has visited Longewala then this location can be skipped.

Jaisalmer War Museum

We started our journey towards Bikaner. The roads are empty and straight. It was first time I saw a flying peacock. This section witnessed few wildlife crossing as we saw a group of Chinkaras crossing roads, they were so quick at just three jumps they were on other side of road.

Road surface from Jaisalmer to Bikaner is fantastic. There are very less facilities on the road. Phalodi is the town accompanied with some decent eateries.

My trusty under shade on Jaisalmer – Bikaner highway

Entered Bikaner district

Instead of going into city we detoured our journey towards Deshnoke where there is famous “Karni Mata Temple”. This temple is famous for rats. There are so may rats wandering inside this temple. It is said that these are kids of goddesses. They are all same size, no one knows from where they came and how they got multiplied. I did not find a single rat outside temple. It is also said that there are four white rats in this temple and its lucky moment to one of them. I waited for some time but could not spot white rat.

Karni Mata Temple

Rats having milk inside temple

After having blessing of Karni mata we entered our destination of the day “Bikaner”.

In late evening we went to famous old market of Bikaner named “Kote Gate” to get some famous Bhujiya. There is old and famous bhujiya shop here named “Bhikaram Chandmal” where you get authentic Bikaneri bhujiyas. After tasting some varieties of bhujiya we purchased some packets.

We were later causally roaming in the market. I saw many dedicated kite shops here, might people must be enjoying kite flying more.

There were few lassi shops nearby. We tried some lassi here but the taste of Jodhpur’s Mishrilal was still remembered.

If one wants to take car to Kote gate market area, then do park it for free near open ground of Ratan Bihari temple. We came back to our hotel after having food in market area.

Day 10:

After getting ready we moved to famous Junagarh fort in Bikaner. The traffic and roads in Bikaner city are quite good. In morning the traffic was very sparse.

First sight of Junagrah fort from road.

You can drive your car straight into fort. There is ample car parking space guided by security inside fort for just Rs.20. The fort opens at 10:00am but the museum named as “Prachina” inside fort opens at 9:00am. We decided to visit museum until fort opens.

Car parking space inside fort

View of fort from inside

Entrance towards Prachina museum

One more view of fort

The museum was good enough to display the day in day out things used by royal family. There are separate sections which are well marked so one can see it at leisure space. When we came out of museum the doors of forts were open. Got the tickets and waited for guide. Yes!!! The guide is inclusive in ticket, they send one guide with a group of 10-15 peoples. One cannot enter fort without guide.

There were almost 10-20 peoples when our guide arrived. He introduced himself and started our fort tour. We all were moving at leisure space along with guide in different halls and sections of Junagarh fort. Guide was nicely explaining every single details and history about this fort. I liked this service!!

Phool Mahal

Handmade paintings on wall

Anup Mahal

Amazing artwork

Signs used in procession

Armour section

Diwan-E-Khas

This is fighter plane from World War I. They say it is still well maintained.

Few interior portions of Junagarh fort

Garden inside fort

It took almost 2 hours to explore this fort. At the exit there was this cloth shop, the arrangement was photogenic. Once more “Rangilo Rajasthan”

We moved our car from fort towards Lalgarh Palace. The palace is now converted into hotel, one can have luxurious fine dine in Laxmi Niwas Palace situated inside campus. We just went here for photo clicks.

Entrance to royalty – Lalgarh Palace

Lalgarh Palace

Laxmi Niwas Palace

We had food in Bikaner city and came back to our hotel to spend afternoon. In evening we moved towards Devkund Sagar. This location is little bit at outskirts of Bikaner main city. The location is like Jaisalmer’s Bada Bagh depicting royal cenotaphs. The difference is just that these cenotaphs are built in marble.

We reached there at 5:30pm just to see the board stating that visitor time is till 5:00pm. We requested security to allow us to have some clicks as we won’t take more than 5-10 mins. After much obligation and looking at MH registered vehicle he allowed us to go inside.

One needs to take off footwear before entering this area. The cenotaphs looked wonderful.

As it was sunset time hence the tops on cenotaphs were looking somewhat golden. The security whistled at us to come out. I hurriedly clicked sunset photos.

We moved back to Bikaner town. There was famous Bhandasar Jain Temple in old city where we decided our next move. Google maps took us through some very narrow roads which still were becoming narrower as we kept proceeding. At last I stopped at one point as asked a biker about proper way to go to temple. He told me to take the car in reverse for few meters and take another road. With his help I reversed the car in that tight narrow street. All other traffic was standing quiet till I completed reversing (In Pune you might go mad doing this stunt)

We reached Jain temples, there is parking place for 4-5 cars. When we visited there was only one car hence we have good place to park ours.

Bhandasar Jain Temple

Inner sanctum

Carvings on pillars

A structure in front of temple

It was dark when we came out of temple. I carefully navigated through some internal street and alas reached Kote gate where we had some food.

Sweets in one of the sweet shop

 

[GrandRk]

Day 11:

We left early from Bikaner as our plan was to target Chittorgarh before it gets dark. The roads are very good with some mix state of two lane and four lanes. Need to watch out for cows, herds and few wandering camels on highway.

Truck traffic got increased as we neared Kishangarh. There were few wrong siders as well. Due to heavy truck traffic the road condition is very bad. So many caters and boulders with broken tar. We bypassed Kishangarh and touched NH48 towards Chittorgarh.

The road from Kishangarh to Chittorgarh is undergoing widening work, there are numerous diversions and speed breakers on this way. One should avoid this section in night. Last time when I travelled on this road before two years there was nothing or very less facilities on road but now I could see many residential hotels, restaurants and fuel outlets beside road. By evening we entered Chittorgarh.

At night we were roaming in Chittorgarh to check for dinner option. I found Manuhar Dining Hall which was beside road. The unlimited thalis they served were good for money I would say. The taste was amazing, also it won’t felt heavy in stomach as well.

Thali at Manuhar dining Hall

We came back to our hotel and crashed on beds. I was lying on bed just thinking how much we have travelled when suddenly one road sign named “Punha Padhare” (Means “Visit Again”) flashed in my mind. I could not recollect but the sign was seen somewhere in today’s journey.

It made me think, how much skills we need to apply to get leave sanctioned to do such travel? Can this happen again? Will I come to this region again in my life? Will everyone be same as today? Time is moving, age is increasing. Somewhere deep in the heart got a pinch of sorrow!!

Day 12:

We woke up lazily. Had relaxed breakfast and started our journey towards Indore. I always stop at Indore for night when we pass through this region. This is just for the love of street food which they have in Saraafa Bazaar and Chappan Dukan.

Chittorgarh to Indore has some amazing roads where one can easily do triple digits. Need to watch out speed breakers near villages and crossings. I reached Lebad in afternoon itself. There is one straight road entering Indore from Lebad. I would like to quote here that there is this “IVRCL Indore Gujarat Toll” near Methwada who charges whopping Rs.120 to enter Indore.

Gmap location of Toll

Indore has good ring road facility, but Agra Bombay road sees some crazy traffic with lots of signals. I felt like driving in Pune.

Saarafa Bazaar

Some smoke juices

Day 13:

Today we will be reaching back to our home. This was the last leg of my trip hence wanted to drive it in relaxed way. Had a lazy start from Indore after sumptuous breakfast. In afternoon itself we were near MP-MH border.

Had a quick lunch halt at road side dhaba near Shirpur. The road condition was smooth till MP border. There are lots and lots of speed breakers from Dhule to Nashik. Trucks have made those speed humps flat on either side with small mountain in between. Need to take car crossways on it. The speed breakers are literally car breakers, one cannot be on seat when car keep moving on it (No matter how slow you go over it). We reached Nashik before evening itself.

First sign of home

From Nashik to Alepahata four lane is completed where one can do triple digits. From Alephata to Chakan the road is single lane with miscellaneous traffic and jaywalkers. There are many “Missal Pav” outlets near Narayangoan, we had some delicious missal in one of them.

With relaxed speeds we reached our home safety. I parked my car in parking and said whole hearted Thanks to it.

Some takeaways from my trip:
1) Start early to cover maximum distance
2) Keep some cash always with you (Cards use was very minimal in entire RJ)
3) Keep drinking water to fight fatigue
4) Take stops at hotels which has clean washrooms (especially for ladies travelling with you)
5) There is no need to spend night at Sam dunes. One can have camel safari or jeep safari and come back to Jaisalmer city after sunset.
6) Don’t attend too many museum’s as everything is same in most of the cases
7) Kuldhara is literally a hyped location, you can skip it if you are short of time
8) Street food in Rajasthan is simply great so do try it in your visit.
9) Udaipur felt a bit costlier than other areas of Rajasthan.
10) Overall weather of Rajasthan is pleasant in March month.

Note: - All photos posted in this travelogue are taken by mobile camera. Few of them are taken in moving car.

I pay my thanks to all readers who have read this travelogue. I would like to say everyone “Travel before you run out of your time!!”.

 

[mayankdixit]

That's a wonderful and very detailed travelogue. It's very well presented. The pictures are making me feel like I am visiting Rajasthan myself.
This thread deserves 5 stars .
Congratulations on your trip and the subsequent travelogue.
GrandRk you write very well. Will be on the lookout for your presentations from now on.

 

[GrandRk]

That's a wonderful and very detailed travelogue. It's very well presented. The pictures are making me feel like I am visiting Rajasthan myself.
This thread deserves 5 stars .
Congratulations on your trip and the subsequent travelogue.
GrandRk you write very well. Will be on the lookout for your presentations from now on.

Thanks Mayank for your cheerful words

 

[350Z]

Awesome thread indeed with plenty of beautiful snaps. Thanks for sharing @GrandRk. We’ve featured it on our homepage.

Drive Safe,
350Z

 

[ABandy]

Excellent detailed travelogue with lively pics. Thanks for sharing.

 

[GrandRk]

Awesome thread indeed with plenty of beautiful snaps. Thanks for sharing @GrandRk. We’ve featured it on our homepage.

Drive Safe,
350Z

Thanks Vibhor !

Excellent detailed travelogue with lively pics. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for your words ABandy

 

[bbarve]

Wonderful travelogue! Enjoyed reading and viewing photos of Rajasthan.

 

[GrandRk]

Wonderful travelogue! Enjoyed reading and viewing photos of Rajasthan.

Thanks for taking time and going through my travelogue.

 

[bhvm]

12 days. Wow. Thats one super trip you got there.
Thanks for making me re-live my Rajasthan trip from 2009. Its nice to see things are mostly the same (Including parking fees).
I wish there was an easy way to Dump 1575 images on this forum. Well not that much but 150 well selected ones. Anyone wants to see?

 

[GrandRk]

12 days. Wow. Thats one super trip you got there.
Thanks for making me re-live my Rajasthan trip from 2009. Its nice to see things are mostly the same (Including parking fees).
I wish there was an easy way to Dump 1575 images on this forum. Well not that much but 150 well selected ones. Anyone wants to see?

I loved RJ. Hope can visit these places again sometime in this life. You can ask Admin for help to upload your pics.