Now, That's a Man: Pre-Worshipped Maruti Suzuki SX4 ZDi (Rebuild & Ownership Review)

[Auto_Psycho]

Transmission Overhaul
Almost everything has arrived now, so let's kickstart the rebuild.
Conditon of gearbox!!

Disassembling

Remove the lock with a screwdriver and insert a piece to cloth between the gears.(avoid using screwdrivers)

Then use a proper socket and remove the nut

5th gear hub assembly

Removing gear shifter assembly

Gear shifter

Now remove all the bolts around the gearbox

Don't forget to remove this bolt (bolt holding the reverse gear)

3 bolts are located inside bell hosuing. We need to remove that too.

Now use a screw driver and pry a little to seperate the gearbox housing. (Do not use hammer to seperate)

Gearbox after seperating

Main shaft and counter shaft

Remove reverse light switch

Remove the speedometer sensor

1.67L kms of dust

Cleaning!!
It may look simple,but takes almost two whole days to complete,and gaves me a lot of body pain

After cleaning..

But i am not satisfied with the result, so decided to go for wire brushing!!

After wire brushing!!

Changing the synchronizer
Many people may tell you that you need a hydraulic press to do this, but actually you don't need one.. You just need bearing pullers.
(Some mechanics use chisels and hammers to remove gears from shaftring on't do that, it may damage the gears.)

Synchronizer Ring set

Damaged ring

Damaged ring close-up (This 'step' formation is the reason behind the gear shifting issue)

Good ring

Remove the lock to remove the hub assembly

First gear synhronizer

Hub lock set

After complete disassembly

After cleaning with diesel, petrol and water

Install roller bearing

Adding lubrication (Fresh new gear oil)

Inserting first gear

Installing new synchronizer

Installing Hub

While installing the hub, make sure the locks are properly seated. If it didn't seat properly, the gears won't engage easily and you need to remove the whole gearbox and disassemble it completely to clear it.

Installing second gear synchronizer

Installing other things

Counter shaft assembling completed

Everything washed with diesel, petrol and water

Rebuilding
(Always do works like this in a clean dust free place)

Installing oil seals

Installing Crown wheel

Main shaft

Main and Counter

Installing these shafts is a tricky thing. You need to install both shafts with shift forks at the sametime

Installing reverse gear

Before installing the cover, make sure this screw hole is aligned with the marking in the gearbox housing

Now add a light even coat of rtv on the mating surface.
Do not apply too much rtv like the garage guys.
(It only makes things worse)

Tightening the housing

Installing reverse gear bolt (Don't forget the copper washer)

Installing the lock and metal washer

While installing the metal plate, make sure it seats properly like this

Installing 5th gear assembly

5th gear synchronizer

5th gear hub

while installing the hub, make sure these markings are aligning properly

Now install the nut and lock it with screwdriver and hammer

 

[mayankdixit]

Awesome job (if done as DIY in home with no help at all) !!

Don't mind if ask you, but what was the need to dismantle the gearbox completely? Looks fine from inside,except some oil and grime outside.
Reassembly to factory levels requires good torque wrench at all steps and Workshop repair manual to advise the correct torque for each and every bolt.

 

[Auto_Psycho]

Installing gear shifter assembly

Installing reverse light switch

Installing release bearing

Job Completed!

The next step is to rebuild the engine. But first, some preparation is required.Let's do it..
Polishing the crankshaft
This was the conditon of the crankshaft. It may look horrible, but actually its just material transfer from the bearing and the crank pins are still smooth. (Run your fingernail across the crank pins to test this, if you can feel any deep scratches that means the crank is damaged and needs repalcement or polishing.Here i can't feel anything and it feels smooth.)
To double check, i gave the crank to a machine shop to check the crank and they told me everything was in good condtiton, (I can still use the STD size bearings),but need a little bit of polishing to remove the material transfer from the bearing.
I really want to try the DIY method of crank polishing since i watched that video on youtube.So this will be the perfect opportunity to test that method.

Polishing Crankshaft using 1000/1500 and 2000 Grit sandpaper

Result..

Smooth and Shiny!!

Changing Diesel Filter

Yup, that was me working inside the engine bay.

To remove the filter housing, you need a special tool. I searched for this tool everywhere, including Shakti Tools Trivandrum. (famous for automotive special tools) At Shakthi, the tool is available but costs around Rs 2000 (maybe due to its quality). But I don't think that's a fair deal. So I searched on Amazon and found the tool from a brand called GIZMO. It costs only 400 or something. I purchased the tool from Amazon. The tool is very good for that price range, and the quality is more than enough for occasional users like me.
(Not that good for rough uses like garages)

Conditon of filter (Remember, this was a completely showroom serviced vehicle.)

Déjà vu

 

[Auto_Psycho]

Awesome job (if done as DIY in home with no help at all) !!

Thank you! Yes, I did everything by myself at home, and no one is helping me except for the engine removal and installation.

Don't mind if ask you, but what was the need to dismantle the gearbox completely? Looks fine from inside,except some oil and grime outside.

Remember, at the beginning of this post I mentioned that the second gear was not engaging properly.

It is a common problem with this gearbox. (used in the Swift, SX4, Ertiga, and many other Maruti diesel vehicles).
The reason behind this issue was a damaged synchronizer ring.

To resolve this issue, we need to disassemble the gearbox and the countergear shaft completely and replace the damaged synchronizer with a new one.

Reassembly to factory levels requires good torque wrench at all steps and Workshop repair manual to advise the correct torque for each and every bolt.

Yes, I know that but the service manual for this car is not available anywhere. So my only option is to use something good enough to hold the housing tightly (don't remember the exact torque figure I used) without stripping the threads, and adding a little bit of threadlocker to the threads will do the work just fine. (Yes, i followed the criss cross pattern and torquing every bolt equally)
No need to worry about that..

 

[deville_56]

Thank you! Yes, I did everything by myself at home, and no one is helping me except for the engine removal and installation.

Eyes glued on this thread. Wished you could've done more elaborative DIYs on Beat before selling it. Just curious, what do you do for a living?

To remove the filter housing, you need a special tool. I searched for this tool everywhere, including Shakti Tools Trivandrum. (famous for automotive special tools) At Shakthi, the tool is available but costs around Rs 2000 (maybe due to its quality). But I don't think that's a fair deal. So I searched on Amazon and found the tool from a brand called GIZMO. It costs only 400 or something. I purchased the tool from Amazon. The tool is very good for that price range, and the quality is more than enough for occasional users like me.
(Not that good for rough uses like garages)

Shakti stocks only branded and quality stuff, obviously not affordable for DIYers like us. There is another shop somewhat diagonally opposite Shakthi called Karthik that got cheaper brands with decent quality. Bought my first ratchet and sockets from them.

 

[Auto_Psycho]

Eyes glued on this thread. Wished you could've done more elaborative DIYs on Beat before selling it. Just curious, what do you do for a living?

I really wanted to complete that thread with more diy's and information, but things got out of hand!
But this rebuild may be useful for beat diesel owners too.
Because the 3 cylinder smartech engine has almost the same design and parts as the 4 cylinder varient.Even the pistons of beat diesel and swift diesel are the same.
(Major differences are in the balancer shaft, PCV filter, design of the EGR assembly, throttle etc.)

I am an IT fresher studying cloud computing now (Microsoft Azure).

Shakti stocks only branded and quality stuff, obviously not affordable for DIYers like us. There is another shop somewhat diagonally opposite Shakthi called Karthik that got cheaper brands with decent quality. Bought my first ratchet and sockets from them.

Thank you for this valuable information! I really did not know about Karthik.
I will definitely visit the shop next time.

 

[Auto_Psycho]

The Rebuild!
Before starting the rebuild, we need to make sure that everything is cleaned thoroughly.

Cleaning Sensors (with throttle body cleaner)
Oxygen Sensor after cleaning

MAP Sensor

Crankshaft position sensor

Camshaft position sensor

Oil pressure switch

After cleaning everything

Cleaning catalytic converter

For cleaning, I am using plain water with pressure (I don't want to use diesel or petrol because I don't know if it damage the catalyst or not). My catalytic converter is in good condition and not clogged.
But in some cars, it may be clogged severely, and that clog creates backpressure. This backpressure can damage the turbocharger pretty quickly. So don't forget to clean the catalytic convertors.

Cleaning EGR Valve Assembly

Solenoid

Conditon of EGR valve

Conditon of rubber hoses (best example of why we must replace every rubber hose during overhaul).

Nozzle after cleaning

Before

After cleaning and replacing rubber hoses

After washing everything thoroughly (second round)

Step 1: Installing Oil squirters aka Piston cooling jets

All 4 squirters installed

Step 2: Install Main Bearings
Notice the STD marking, means it is standard size. This bearing comes with thrust washers. (Some cars we need to install these thrust washers seperately).
Thrust washers are used to decrease the side to side play of the crankshaft

Now, install the bearings in the crankcase cover

Step 3: Lube the bearings properly and install the crankshaft.
(For lubing, i highly recommend to use Assembly Lube. It gives you enough protection from wear and tear during initial start). Here i am using fresh engine oil because assembly lube was not easily available offline.

Example for assembly lube

Before lubing, make sure every bearings are super clean and free from dirt or dust.

Now add a little bit of oil in the Main journals and try to ratate the crank. The crank must spin freely.

Step 4: Now apply rtv in the crank case cover's mating surface. The coating must be light and even. (Always use genuine high quality rtv)
DO NOT USE TOO MUCH RTV.

Then gently close the crankcase cover and install the bolts

Step 5: Torque the bolts properly.
This is a very crucial step and do not skip this step.
We need to torque every crank bolt exactly the same. If we skip the step, the crank may not spin smoothly or cause some other problems in future.
But the problem here is i don't have a Service manual for SX4. But while searching online i got some information..

Link

Now check the crank to see if it spins smoothly. If you feel like the crank is not spinning freely or jammed, remove the bolts and check everything once again.
Do not move to the next step until you resolve the issue.
Here, my crank was spinning smoothly!

Neat even sealing!

Step 6: Installing the Pistons
Before installing the pistons, let me show you the things to keep in mind about connecting rods while assembling.

In this engine, the connecting rods have numbers labelled on the cap and rod.
This is to ensure that we are using the correct cap for the correct connecting rod.
Always make sure the numbers on the rod and cap match and at the same time, make sure that the numbers or alphabets labelled on the side of the connecting rods are facing towards the timing side.

If you use another rod's cap, the pattern of the crack in the rod and cap may not match properly and may create problems.

Piston set (Goetze)

Rings set

Oil ring with expander

At first, we need to install the expander ring

Then install the oil ring

Then install the two compression rings according to order.

(Installing the piston ring by hand is a tricky process. Even small mistakes may break the rings. So If you don't have enough experience and confidence, please don't try this.
Use proper piston ring expander tool..

Now install the new Piston pin aka Gudgeon pin, circlip lock and big end bearings aka connecting rod bearings)

Now do the same for all the remaining pistons.

After completing the assembling of all 4 pistons, I gave it a round of petrol wash to make sure the pistons are 100% clean and also to satisfy my ocd.

Now, lets install the pistons using ring compressor. Before installing the pistons make sure the piston and cylinder walls are properly lubricated with fresh engine oil and the ring gaps are aligned according to spec.

This was the method I used.(Some people use different method).
The main goal of this setting is to ensure that the gaps of every ring are not aligned in the same order.
But the truth is that every rings rotates freely when the engine is in working condition.
(I don't know why manufacturers recommend it even if the rings rotate freely while working.)

While installing pistons, make sure that the arrow markings are pointing towards the timing side. (Like in this pic)

After installing the pistons, and torquing all the caps, check for side-to-side play in connecting rod. Every connecting rod must have a little side-to-side play.
(If it didn't have that free play, the engine could seize quickly or the bearings could be damaged easily.)

Step 7: Installing Crankshaft Rear Main Seal.
Easiest way to install this seal is to install it while installing the crank case cover.
(This is the most expensive oil seal in this engine (Costs 900Rs), so install it very carefully.)

Step 8: Install the Flywheel
Before installing the flywheel remove the oil coating on the flywheel using petrol or something like that

To torque the bolts of the flywheel, you have to lock the crank first, a small hole is provided in the flywheel to lock the crank.
Use an allen key or something like that to lock the crank.

Step 9: Installing Clutch

Before installing the pressure plate, remove the oil coating from the surface.

Before tightening the clutch cover bolts, we have to align the clutch properly. To do that, we need a clutch alignment tool. (We can't install the gearbox until the clutch is aligned properly.)
But I don't have a clutch alignment tool, so I used the whole gearbox to align the clutch properly!

Step 10: Install Oil Pan Baffle Plate

Step 11: Install Gearbox and Oil Pan(Temporary)
To do further jobs, we have to install the gearbox and oil pan

Engine after straightening up

See all the pistons lined up in the same order? This is timing of crankshaft in this engine(not at TDC). We can lock the crank through a small hole provided under the gearbox.

Cylinder Head with new valves, seal, guide and seat.

Smooth and flat surface!

Step 12: Installing Head Gasket and Cylinder Head

Now, torque the cylinder head bolt in the following order.

Torque spec

After torquing cylinder head

Step 13: Installing Manifolds and other things

Used threadlocker in the threads and grease in the body of the bolts (These bolts are notorious for rusting).

Exhaust manifold

MAP Sensor installed

EGR Valve

Confirming the position of the pistons using my Estilo's dipstick!

Bleeding Air from HLA
Process

HLA's Installed

Lubricating Rocker Arms

Installing Rocker Arms

New Rocker Arms and HLA's Installed!

 

[Auto_Psycho]

Step 14: Installing Valve Cover

Before installing valve cover, make sure the camshaft and crankshaft is locked completly.
Position to lock camshaft

Crankshaft locking positon

Camshaft locking tool

After locking cam and crank, install the valve cover and torque the bolts.
(Do not remove any of the timing lock before torquing the crank bolt)
Step 15: Install the new timing kit

Installing tensioner and timing chain oil jet
(Remove this lock just before installing the timing cover)

Installing timing cover gasket
(Before installing the gasket, make sure to super clean the surface where gasket seats)

Step 16: Install new Oil pump+ Timing cover

Installing the crankshaft pulley and torque the bolt.
(Now, you can remove the timing locks)

Torque Spec

Step 17: Install Oil Pan
Apply a little thick coating of rtv in the oil pan's mating surface.
(Don't make it too thick)

Step 18: Install other accessories (compressor, alternator, glowplugs etc)

Installing starter

Installing dipstick and rubber seal

Installing Glowplugs

Installing Oil Seperator

OEM for rubber hoses is Lakhani not Lakshmi.

Installing CMP

Installing Oil Pressure Switch

Installing Thermostat

Installing High Pressure Pump and Vaccum Pump

Installing Injectors and Common rail.
Injectors after cleaning the body.
(Ofcourse, these injectors needs servicing, but i skipped that for now. Defnitly do that after completing the breake-in period)

Installing new copper washers

Install these injectors in the correct order.
(we have to note down which injector is going to which cylinder while disassembling)

After installing injectors and its lines

Installing exhaust manifold cover

Installing Intermediate shaft, vaccum tank etc

Installing new water pump

I really loves the side view of this engine!

Installing AC Compressor

Dish washing scrubber can do wonders in these kind of dirt!!

Installing new serpentine belt (Continental)

Installing Oil Cooler
(Before installing oil cooler, make sure the mating surface was clean and smooth and Do not use RTV in rubber gasket.)

Use a very thin coat of shellac compound in every metal gasket to prevent the risk of leak.

After installing turbo, catalytic converter, pipe lines, wiring harness and every other things.

It looks like a brand new engine!!

For a reference, here is the old pic..

I don't know how to express my feelings right now.
This build gaves me a lot of experience, knowledge and tonnes of pure satisfaction..

 

[bhvm]

Wow wow wow! I am totally hooked to this thread.
Hats off man! totally next level DIY.

You only need a little bit of brake fluid near the injector, and that little amount of brake fluid won't spill or enter any other area.
If you still don't like using brake fluid, you can use Coca-Cola as an alternative.
WD-40, Zorrik 88 etc won't work well if the injector is seized too much.. Because it may evaporate quickly when the engine warms up..

Another option is to remove them hot. They come out so easily if you can run the engine for just 2 mins.

Its very surprising to see that the radiator has 2 fans and both are totally different.
They are of different sizes different shapes and different blade numbers,5 and 7 too !! Is it OEM ??

This is a common tactic.
My Safari 2 Radiator fans (3rd condensor fan)
And both Radiator fans are different speed. And are used as required.
There are separate relays for High speed & low speed fans.

 

[Auto_Psycho]

Wow wow wow! I am totally hooked to this thread.
Hats off man! totally next level DIY.

Another option is to remove them hot. They come out so easily if you can run the engine for just 2 mins.

Thank you brother..
Really happy to know that everyone is enjoying this thread!

Yes, in the most majority of cases, that technique may also work...

 

[Auto_Psycho]

Conditon of the car after 2 months of idle
(Pic taken just before installing the engine)

Front lower cross member after cleaning and painted.

Radiator after flushing

Fans installed

While checking every other parts, found a crack in the hose of turbo's control valve.

Replaced those with new one.

Radiator Installed

Replacing every radiator hoses

Battery box after painted

Bleeding Clutch

Replacing Brake Pads

One side caliper pin was stuck.

After cleaning

Fresh thick pads!!

Condensor Installed!
(Yes, i know condensor was not in great conditon. Don't worry i will replace it soon...)

Installing Upper cross member

Installing Fuel tank
OEM for Low pressure pump was Continental

Selfie while resting!
(I have a little bit of claustrophobia, and working under a car like this was a scary thing for me. but still i managed to complete the job.)

Filling Engine Oil

Filling Transmission oil

I wasn't able to take some pics. Here are the list of things done...

• Connecting AC Lines
• Connecting wiring harness
• Installing New horns

• Installing headlight
• Replacing foglamps- Lumax(OEM) (old one was damaged)
• Installing Airfilter
• Installing bumber
• Filling fresh diesel
• Filling and bleeding radiator(with water)

All the work is completed..
Everything was working fine, none of the warning lamps were glowing!

Now the next step is to bleed the air from injectors and start the engine.
After completing the air bleeding, the engine starts right away without any hesitation.
NVH levels are very very low. It feels ALMOST like a brand new engine. But still i can hear a very light knocking sound (That's why i used the word almost).
That knocking was from the injectors, and while checking the rpm, it was still fluctuating (a classic indication of weak injectors).
This issue will clear up completely after servicing the injectors. So there's no need to be concerned. I am pretty damn sure that the engine will sound and perform EXACTLY like a brand new one after servicing the injectors!!

After Washing

Pic during testdrives

 

[VISHNUCARCRAZY]

Salute and huge huge respect to you @Auto_Psycho bro!

My ride is running with a synchronizer ring issue, which I am planning to do along with clutch change(Still clutch life is left). :
My Glistening Grey Maruti Suzuki Swift Reborn ZXi (2015) AKA Grey Beast

What's your recommendation, give it to my usual service centre with my supervision, or a FNG?

 

[bhvm]

That knocking was from the injectors, and while checking the rpm, it was still fluctuating (a classic indication of weak injectors).
This issue will clear up completely after servicing the injectors. So there's no need to be concerned.

If RPM fluctuation is very Minor, Try Abro DI 502 injector cleaner. Other option is STP.
I add it once in a while and all RPM Fluctuation gone. My Elephant (Safari) Seems to like it.
Since you had Injectors open, you can soak the tips directly in Injector cleaner liquid or try running the fluid through them (Instead of diesel).
and add the rest in Fuel tank.

 

[Auto_Psycho]

Salute and huge huge respect to you @Auto_Psycho bro!

My ride is running with a synchronizer ring issue, which I am planning to do along with clutch change(Still clutch life is left). :
My Glistening Grey Maruti Suzuki Swift Reborn ZXi (2015) AKA Grey Beast

Thanks bro

Before disassembling the gearbox check the gear shift shaft assembly for any damage and please don't try to forcefully shift the gears. It only makes things worse (Instead, try double-clutching).

What's your recommendation, give it to my usual service centre with my supervision, or a FNG?

It can be given to your FNG or a service centre. It depends on who you have the most faith in. Whether it's FNG or a service centre, we only need to get the job done right.
In some places, service centres were good, but in some places, local garages were good. It all depends on who we trust the most.
So give it anywhere you can trust the most.
(No matter which one you choose, get it done with your supervision).

 

[Auto_Psycho]

If RPM fluctuation is very Minor, Try Abro DI 502 injector cleaner. Other option is STP.
I add it once in a while and all RPM Fluctuation gone. My Elephant (Safari) Seems to like it.
Since you had Injectors open, you can soak the tips directly in Injector cleaner liquid or try running the fluid through them (Instead of diesel).
and add the rest in Fuel tank.

Yes the fluctuations was minor, but that was not the only problem. There was a little bit of power drop after mid rpm (probably due to high return flow).

My doubts with using injector cleaner is how to get the IMA code after cleaning?