Now, That's a Man: Pre-Worshipped Maruti Suzuki SX4 ZDi (Rebuild & Ownership Review)

Auto_Psycho · Apr 24, 2022

Hello Folks,
If you guys already read my thread Ultimate Guide For Maintaining Chevrolet Beat Diesel, you may know that after selling my beat diesel, I started the hunt for a sedan. This thread is the continuation of that story... [:D]

I tried my best to add as much details and technical informations as possible. Hope this thread may be useful for many....

The Hunt
The size, the comfort and the design of the hatchbacks really become tedious to me after i had used them for so long. I really need an upgrade as quick as possible, but at the same time i don't want an entry level sedan because it lacks the feel and looks of a proper sedan. Buying a new car is way out of my list because of my very tight budget and the new BS6 Emission Norms (BS6 really chokes the diesel engine and makes the engine unreliable when comparing to BS4).

Things I Want:

Comfortable for Long Drives
Low Maintenance
Good Space (Legroom, Headroom,Boot space)
Good Handling
Mileage
Spare Parts Availability
Adequate Power

Cars Shortlisted according to my budget:

Fluidic Verna
I really love that car. Its so powerful, fun to drive and looks really hot. But when it comes to 'maintenance' it may blast your pockets especially if you are planing for engine rebuild. So i decided to leave that dream and move on... [sad]

Tata Manza Quadrajet
Its a good car with good space,Fiat's Multijet engine and good handling. But i really hate the look of that car, it feels so boring and outdated.So decided to skip it

Maruri Suzuki Sx4
Its a very good car with Comfortable seats, Good handling, Cheaper to maintain (some parts are not that cheap), Multijet 90hp Engine, Spacious Cabin, Boot etc. My favourite part of this car is that it doesn't feel cheap like other maruti cars..

So after a ton of research i decided to go for Sx4. But finding a good Sx4 is little tough. Even though Sx4 is a very good car, the 90hp Multijet is not as reliable as the 74bhp varient. I saw many Sx4 owners done engine overhaul at just 90/100K kms.
(Imagine purchasing a car from a very tight budget and then later you are realizing that you need an engine overhaul!!
That will be horrible...)I don't want to take that risk.
So instead of purchasing a pre owned Sx4 that runs below 1L kms, i decided to go for a car that runs above 1L kms.
It may sound crazy, but trust me, that was the best decision I ever made!! [evil]

After searching in Olx for a week, i finally found a car with very good condition. I immediately called the owner and booked an appointment.
When we reached his place, this was the view waiting for us.

Love at First Sight...

The car was in excellent condition. Even though the car crossed 1.67L Kms, it didn't feels like that. (I have driven many Sx4 before as a part of this hunt, but those cars are not as clean and good as this one.) The owner maintained the car very well and did periodic services regularly at MASS.
He also told me that he recently replaced the radiator fan motor and vacuum pump.
After inspecting the car thoroughly, i am fully satisfied with the condition of the car.. (Ofcourse the engine needs overhaul, but thats not a problem for me right now...)
So without wasting anymore time, we fixed the deal with the owner at a decent price and bring her to my home exactly that day..

At My Home

Interiors

Problems with the car:

Heavy White Smoke at Cold Start (Indication of worn out valve seal)
Second Gear is not engaging properly (Common problem of this gearbox)
Rattling noise from front suspension
Wornout Gear Knob, Boot and Lever assembly (Excess freeply from gear lever)
Very High Oil Consumption
Sticky Steering Wheel
Leaks from Transmission
RPM Fluctuations
Lots of Minor and Major Scratches in almost every part of the body

Except that, the overall conditon of the vehicle is very good..
(No accident history, no rust buildup, no sensor or wiring related issues. Each and every function of the vehicle is working properly and the vehicle is very neatly maintained)

mayankdixit · Apr 24, 2022

Congratulations !!
That's a nice ride you got yourself mate. The colour is beautiful.
Please post pics of engine bay and under body.

Auto_Psycho · Apr 24, 2022

mayankdixit said:

Thanks Brother!!
I'll definitely share the pics with an in-depth review soon...

Auto_Psycho · Apr 25, 2022

Engine Bay

Cooling system is filled with tap water not coolant

Rust buildup inside cooling system due to tapwater

Brake Fluid needs replacement

Leaky Turbo!

Condition of underbody

Gearbox and Engine is completly covered with oil and dirt

White Smoke at Cold Start!

Scratches in the bodypanels [frustration]

The Cockpit

Cockpit at Night!!

Good Legroom.

Good Bootspace also

205 60 R16 Tyres

Random Clicks

Enough talking, Lets begin the OVERHAUL..(Ofcourse its a DIY [evil]

)
I wasn't able to take pictures of some processes due to dirty hands. Sorry for that...

Removing the Aftermarket Horn

Removing the Intercooler

Removing the crossmember

Crossmember Removed

Now let's remove this engine cover and remove the injectors

Remove the connector

Now remove the metal clip and remove the return pipe

After that, remove the allen bolt that holds the injector

Now remove the high pressure line using 14mm double end spanner (Flare Nut Spanner is the best here)

After removing the high pressure line, cover the pipes immediatly with insulation tape to prevent dirt or dust

Now lets disconnect the wiring harness to make more space

Now let's remove the injector..
(In many cases these injectors won't come loose that easily, so before overhauling the engine, I poured brake fluid into this area for around 1 week and drove the vehicle with that. This trick will loosen up the injectors and you can easily remove injectors without the injector puller)

After removing the injector!! See how well that trick works! [clap]

Now lets disconnect all sensors and pipes!

MAF Sensor

Removing the Condensor

Condensor Removed

After removing the condesnor, close the pipeline with a clean rag or masking tape immediately

Draining the radiator..

Remove the reservoir cap to speedup the process

Rust Juice..

Removing the radiator

Remove all the hoses from and to the radiator

Radiator Removed

Leaky turbo!! This is one of the main culprits behind the famous 'Oil Consumption' issue in the 90bhp Multijet Engines.

Condition of Gearbox

Rusty battery box..

Removing the ECU

Magneti Marelli's ECM

Even though it looks horrible, it's nothing to worry about.. Its just surface rust and we can easily remove it..

Disconnecting the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)

Disconnecting the Oil Pressure Switch

Disconnecting the Fuel Pressure Regulator

Disconnecting the Temperature Sensor

Removing the Water pump outlet pipe

Disconnecting Ac Compressor wiring

Remove the two bolts holding the wiring harness

Disconnect the Rail Pressure Sensor

Remove the coolant reservoir

Wiring harness partially removed

Now lets disconnect the vaccum and fuel hoses

To be contined......

mayankdixit · Apr 25, 2022

Wonderful!! You are overhauling it properly. There is very little rusting in underbody area.
You could have pressure washed it thoroughly before proceeding with the work. That way it would have been easy to work with clean engine bay as well as differentiate rusted from non rusted areas.

I have never used brake fluid to loosen up / clean injectors. It's scary. I always hear brake fluid is toxic and corrosive for paint etc. It might enter somewhere it's not supposed to be.

Are you doing it all by yourself or there is a mechanic/helper/brother/assistant to help you out ?

Auto_Psycho · Apr 25, 2022

mayankdixit said:

Yeah, but i dont think washing makes any huge difference at this stage... Because the engine and gearbox was completly soaked with very thick layer of oil and dirt. We can't use pressure washer in those areas.. As my primary focus was on the engine and gearbox, i don't think washing makes any huge benifit in this conditon..
So i decided to skip the washing process..

mayankdixit said:

I agree with you. (I know that brake fluid is not good for plastic and painted surfaces), but trust me, as per my experience, it won't damage anything here if you use it correctly.
You only need a little bit of brake fluid near the injector, and that little amount of brake fluid won't spill or enter any other area.
If you still don't like using brake fluid, you can use Coca-Cola as an alternative. [:D]

WD-40, Zorrik 88 etc won't work well if the injector is seized too much.. Because it may evaporate quickly when the engine warms up..

mayankdixit said:

Yes, I am doing this all by myself. [:D]

My brother (who is not interested in this kind of stuff) is helping me only for the removal and Installation of the engine.

mayankdixit · Apr 25, 2022

mayankdixit said:

Auto_Psycho said:

Hats off to you man! Not many will dare venture into that territory where you are treading comfortably.

mayankdixit · Apr 26, 2022

Its very surprising to see that the radiator has 2 fans and both are totally different.
They are of different sizes different shapes and different blade numbers,5 and 7 too !! Is it OEM ??

This is how it is in my Nexon.

And this is from your car
Please match the part nos. Looks weird, unless of course if its engineered intentionally.

deville_56 · Apr 26, 2022

mayankdixit said:

Its very surprising to see that the radiator has 2 fans and both are totally different.
They are of different sizes different shapes and different blade numbers,5 and 7 too !! Is it OEM ??

This is how it is in my Nexon.
View attachment 295831 View attachment 295832

And this is from your car
Please match the part nos. Looks weird, unless of course if its engineered intentionally.
View attachment 295833

Stock setup only.

Auto_Psycho · Apr 26, 2022

Removing fuel pipes, vacuum pipes and every other things necessary to remove the engine

Draining Engine Oil

Removing Drive Axle

Condition of Transmission Oil!
Look at those golden particles in the transmission oil. It is from the synchronizer ring, and this is a clear indication of a worn out synchronizer ring.
(This is a common problem for many Maruti cars that share the same gearbox.)

Removing the Engine Mount (Middle)

Removing the Gear Shift Cable

Removing Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Pipe

Removing the remaining wiring harness (Alternator & Starter)

Engine Ready to Remove..
[I am not encouraging anyone to use this method. Because this method is too risky, especially if you don't have enough experience. A small mistake may end up damaging your engine block or gearbox housing, which costs a bomb to replace. So do not try this method if you don't have enough confidence and support (you need at least 3 people to do this properly).]
I HIGHLY RECOMEND to use a chain block or engine hoist to remove the engine.

Engine removed [clap]

Let's start stripping..

Oil Cooler Removed

Removing Water Pump

Removing Oxygen Sensor

O2 is clogged with carbon

Removing Engine Mount Bracket

Rear view of the engine

Ton of space to work with EGR. (Anyone who tried to clean the EGR on this engine may know the struggle.) :lol!:

Vaccum Tank

EGR Valve Assembly

Intake Manifold

Removing Serpentine Belt Tensioner

Oil Seperator. Another culprit behind the 'Oil Consumption' Issue.

Removing Vaccum Pump and High Pressure Pump

Thermostat Assembly

Catalytic Converter & Turbocharger Assembly

It's almost 12 o'clock and I am really exhausted, so I decided to stop for now

To be continued...

Auto_Psycho · Apr 26, 2022

mayankdixit said:

Yes as @deville_56 mentioned, it is completely stock. I think that it was designed to fit properly in that tight space.

Part No: 17120M55KDO

Part No: 17120M55KK0

mayankdixit · Apr 27, 2022

mayankdixit said:

deville_56 said:

Auto_Psycho said:

I agree, this is OEM setup, engineered to fit in the space provided.

This work of yours has gone beyond DIY level. It looks like garage- level work going on with engine dismantling and all. What is surprising is you are not taking help from a professional !!
Great job. Great going. [thumbsup]

I am worried how will you put it all back together?

p.s What tools are you using in this work.? Post some pics please.

Auto_Psycho · Apr 27, 2022

mayankdixit said:

Thanks Brother [:D]

.

mayankdixit said:

Don't worry, I've labelled and separated each nut and bolt during the stripping stage to avoid problems in the future. [;)]

mayankdixit said:

My toolbox is not neatly organized.Sorry for the mess.. :stupid:

For your clarification, here is the list of tools used in this work:

Double End Spanners
Ring Spanners
1/2 inch Socket Set [L,T Handle with extensions & Ratchet] (I will explain about the types of sockets needed for this engine in the upcoming posts)
1/4 inch Socket set
Vice Grip Pliers
Allen Key Set
Combination Pliers
Nose Plier
Circlip Plier
Cutting Pliers
Impact Driver Set
Amazon Basics Torque Wrench Review
Amazon Basics Jack Stand
Bosch Angle Grinder
Philips Head Screw Drivers (S, M, L)
Flat Head Screw Driver (S,M, L)
Rubber Mallet
Metal Hammer
Pipe Wrench
Floor Jack
Multijet Engine Timing Lock Tool Link
Diesel Filter Special Tool Link
T Sapnners (8,10,12mm)

Auto_Psycho · Apr 28, 2022

Stripping Stripping Stripping....
(Sorry for not being able to snap some pictures due to greasy hands..)
Engine Bay after removing engine

Removing the Starter

One bolt is located inside this hole, to access that bolt we need to remove that rubber cover.

Removing Intermediate Shaft and Engine Mount (Middle)

Note that oil leak marked in this picture. Its from the dipstick's rubber seal.

Removing Intake Manifold

Carbon Buildup inside Manidold

Removing Crank Pulley
To remove crank pulley you need to lock the timing first (Cam and Crank). Then rotate the crank pulley bolt clockwise using the special socket bit E18. (External Torx)
(Yes, the bolt is reverse threaded!)

E18- External Torx Socket

Gearbox Removed

Removing Oil Pan

Look at that ugly cheap red silicone sealant. I really hate that thing. Completly kills the clean look of the engine.. [anger]

Timing Cover Removed.
Everything inside looks brand new!! Result of regular oil changes..

Removing Valve Cover

Found a shocking thing inside valve cover. A broken Rocker Arm!! [shock]

I didn't feel any loss of power or anything like that while driving.
On detailed inspection, found that HLA(Hydraulic Lash Adjuster)had lost its tension and was now working freely.

After Removing Cylinder Head

For removing cylinder head, you need a special socket bit called Ribe Socket Bit and the the size is M12.

Condition of Cylinder Block and Piston
While testing, found that all 4 piston have good amount of free play. (Indication of worn out piston rings or sleeve)
You will hear a knocking sound if the piston has free play like this.(Yes, this engine has that knocking sound, and I already noticed that when I saw this car for the first time.)

Condition of Valves

Clutch Removed

One of the clutch cover bolts' heads was stripped while unscrewing. So I used an angle grinder to cut it out.
(Don't worry, we don't need these anymore..)

Removing Water Bypass Pipe

Seperating Crankcase

You don't need to bang hard with a hammer or do anything crazy to separate the crankcase.
Just remove all the bolts and then do a little bit of prying in the marked area with a screwdriver. That's all you need..

Crankcase Seperated

The Mess!!

Next Step: Cleaning

To be continued...

mayankdixit · Apr 28, 2022

What are the symptoms of broken rocker arms??
Why would it break by itself in the first place??

It would have remained hidden if not for this diy.

Now, That's a Man: Pre-Worshipped Maruti Suzuki SX4 ZDi (Rebuild & Ownership Review)

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