Kolkata - Nelong - Gartang Gali - Gangotri: Xylo Traces Ganga Backwards From End To Source

[Chandranath]

We took turns in posing in all vantage positions.

The ITBP played perfect host to us. They too were under the impression that we will have lunch with them. But were surprised to know we will drive deeper into the valley and will have lunch at some other post. They really wanted us to stay longer but we needed to move on. But they prepared piping hot tea and delicious hot veg pakoras for us. They also sang and danced with us. We were bowled over by the humility and warmth. They told us to visit again and the commander in chief of the post himself came to see us off in our respective vehicles.

It was a very enriching experience and the vibrancy of the abandoned village kept ringing on even as I drove away.

Next up is not many pics but to locations and heights where we will be the first civilians to visit and our vehicles to be the first civilian vehicle to climb.

 

[Chandranath]

Very beautiful narration you are giving us along with the mesmerizing pics. Feels like I am there too along with you, viewing the Lal devta temple and the rest of Jhadunga.
Thank you .Waiting for more pics and narration from you .

Hi Thanks for the kind words. Yes the Lal Devta story was so true and captivating.

Will get back with the rest of the log

 

[Chandranath]

Jhadunga village is till what Civilians are allowed that too after very strict permit process. Now we were to move on to 2 more forward bases which we were told till now no civilian has been allowed. Yes we were to be the first person to be on it and the Xylo along with the Bolero and Mumbai bases Scorpio to be the first civilian vehicles to hit it. For security reasons I am mentioning it to be Point P and Point S as the names of the bases start with these letters respectively.

We traced back to a Y junction. We had come from the right side but took the left one now. Roads were average to excellent. The mountains were absolutely barren and not a single spot of green was to be found. We were constantly at elevation levels of 14,000 feet and the lack of Oxygen was evident as the Scorpio in front struggled on a not so very steep road and the Xylo also needed some downshifts on seemingly easy inclines.


We reached Point P first and Point S was a further 30 mins ahead. We were told that the ITBP has prepared lunch for us here. So we were to hit Point S and while returning would stop here for Lunch. Point S was as per the map one of the most advanced posts and had a lot of strategical significance. In the fitness of things did not take much pictures. Partha was feeling the altitude and hence asked him to sit quietly. In fact we all physically restricted our excitement of reaching such a beautiful place at a height of 15,000 feet.

The ITBP here too were greatly pleased at our visit. We were humbled by their politeness and softness in interactions with us. It was really hard to fathom that these are the same men who have nerves of steel and extreme courage while fiercely defending our borders at those unfriendly terrains. Here they were busy serving tea to us with that much discipline and courteousness as you expect in a star hotel from the attendant. We were again bowled over and silently and respectfully gave them a salute and best wishes. Here again the officer in charge of the base wanted us to have lunch. Tilak Bhai explained to them that Point P has already arranged for it but they insisted we have it at the highest point. This was an invitation we could not resist. The benchmark of having lunch at 15,000 feet was trivial what mattered more was the affection with which they were asking. We agreed and lunch was ready in 30 minute flat. Rice, roti, dal and sabji along with sweets for desert and it tasted heavenly.

Before we left they gave us a 15 minute briefing on the place and the operations. Obviously they said that much only which could be divulged and not got into any specifics as they were secured information. The Xylo braving the wind and the chill waited patiently for us. This was not the first time though he was at 15,000 feet. He earlier had done Komic village in Spiti of Himachal Pradesh.

While returning we stopped at Point P and while they were clearly disappointed at not being able to serve lunch to us nevertheless took us to a briefing room. Served tea and snacks and chatted up with us with the commander of the base (from Bihar) himself getting into very friendly conversations with us. It was getting late and we hurried as we still needed to cross the Nullah and I was not sure late in evening with darkness looming in how much water it will have.

Luckily while returning found some Himalayan Ibex on the other side of the river. Unluckily did not realize the picture quality was not good else we would have retaken it.

The nullah water strangely was slightly, only slightly less than in the morning. But this time we had gained wisdom by experience and reduced some load and the Xylo never made a splash of it while crossing.

Reached the hotel where Tilak and the others had put up well into the evening and full darkness. Bid them good bye and hit upon our home stay by 7.30 pm for a relaxed and satisfying evening by the Ganga.

 

[Chandranath]

Day 6 – 29th Sep

Today we had three exciting agenda ahead of us. The lost village of Mukhba which we were seeing for the past couple of days across the river on the other side perched at a height. Gatrang Gali the mysterious overhang of a walkway which we had a birds eye view the previous day and of course the spiritual Gangotri the once upon a time source of the Holiest of the holy rivers Ganga.

The view from our room that we got of Mukhba early in the morning perked us up. It was a two km uphill trek which hosts a handful of families and the winter abode of Devi Ganga. All the priests and other workers of Gangotri Temple belong from this village.

But first it was breakfast and Partha went about his job seriously.

As we were leaving for Mukhba we found fresh apples plucked from personal orchards being brought in. This was what we had ordered to carry back to Kolkata and they were ready to be packed as we start our return journey the next day.

We walked down the tarmac road for 200 meters and took the left turn towards the Ganga through some beautiful orchards. What we understood was one can pluck apples and have but ideally not to be carried back. And Partha being the tallest gave it a hard try.

We had to cross a hanging bridge and the views of the river from it was stupendous.

 

[Chandranath]

We started our climb towards the Village of Mukhba. It was a short 2 km uphill climb and our unfit bodies did feel a tittle strain though nothing major. The bridge on the Ganga started getting smaller and the view of the river more panoramic. The village of Dharali too could be viewed fully and we did not take much time to spot our home stay standing tall amongst the small hutments.

The uphill stretch was not metaled and we took some breaks in between.

After a short while the village itself and the temple came into our view and brought in a lot of spiritual satisfaction within us and perked us up to make the remaining trek quickly.

The temple as stated is of Ganga Devi. There is a deity of Ganga here which is worshipped 365 days. Then during the winter months (usually Diwali to Akshay Tritiya) the deity of Ma Ganga from the Gangotri temple is brought down here and kept in this temple and both deities are worshipped. The rituals of worship for both deities are same throughout the year. All pujaris/ shebaits/ priests of both the temples belong to this village of Mukhba. We also took time out in paying our respects to the Devi.

The village of Mukhba had a handful of hutments. There was no other pilgrims, no crowd, not even too many locals. It was really very peaceful and had a very calming effect on us.

We wanted to hang around for much longer but were reminded that we still had Gartang Gally walk and Gangotri coming up the same day. So by 11 am we climbed down back to Dharali for the remainder of the day.



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