Honda City i-VTEC VMT (2009): Ownership Review


Joined
Nov 19, 2014
Messages
2,270
Likes
1,317
Location
Trivandrum , Sydney
Using a facelift part doesn't cause any major concern, but I won't recommend it unless you don't have any other option. It is more like putting an aftermarket part with better similarity to the specification. Maybe I might have missed reading, what's the difference between facelift part and your old model part. Whether some clearance or size is changed?
 
Thread Starter #17
Joined
Oct 12, 2012
Messages
1,166
Likes
1,330
Location
Hubli
Using a facelift part doesn't cause any major concern
Okay that is some relief for me.

but I won't recommend it unless you don't have any other option. It is more like putting an aftermarket part with better similarity to the specification.
We (I & SA) did order correct part (51610-TM2-K01) from Honda spares website but they sent facelift model struts (51610-TM2-K54) instead. I guess they have stopped manufacturing pre-facelift struts because newer one is also suitable.

Maybe I might have missed reading, what's the difference between facelift part and your old model part. Whether some clearance or size is changed?
51610-TM2-K01: This is for pre-facelift (2009-2011)
51610-TM2-K54: This is for facelift (2012-2013)

There are many more (51610-TM2-K11, 51610-TM2-K63, 51610-TM2-K64 & etc.) and all look similar in pictures but the facelift model has +5mm increase in GC.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 19, 2014
Messages
2,270
Likes
1,317
Location
Trivandrum , Sydney
Increase in GC is an advantage only ![:)]
Sorry to disturb you bro, just to know more , what was stock tyre size of your ride and what is the stock size in the facelift?
Also, had you altered your tyre size now?
 
Thread Starter #19
Joined
Oct 12, 2012
Messages
1,166
Likes
1,330
Location
Hubli
Increase in GC is an advantage only ![:)]
Sorry to disturb you bro, just to know more , what was stock tyre size of your ride and what is the stock size in the facelift?
Also, had you altered your tyre size now?
No problemo.

Stock tyre size was 175/65 R15 and facelift model also has same size. I have upsized tyres to 195/60 R15 about 6 years ago and I got second set of tyres about 2 years ago. Alloys are still stock however.
 
Thread Starter #21
Joined
Oct 12, 2012
Messages
1,166
Likes
1,330
Location
Hubli
Wrapped Honda emblems with red color vinyl and also added red line on the bottom. I had to remove both the emblems (They have clips + little double-sided tape) for proper wrapping. I did same thing last year but the vinyl was crap (Weak adessive and non-pliable) so I had to remove it. Now I bought another vinyl roll from different seller and it is very good quality.

Product Link: Amazon

Car Pictures:
CR_HC09_Red_Emblem_01.jpg CR_HC09_Red_Emblem_02.jpg

Close-up Pictures:
CR_HC09_Red_Emblem_03.jpg
CR_HC09_Red_Emblem_04.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thread Starter #22
Joined
Oct 12, 2012
Messages
1,166
Likes
1,330
Location
Hubli
Serpentine Belt Replacement (September 2023):

As vehicle gets old, it is important to check and replace critical rubber parts such as serpentine belt, timing belt, bushes, dampers, hose pipe, dust boot and etc. These parts get dry rot overtime and start to break apart. Some might only make noise and/or vibration but others can cause serious failure or damage to other parts.

Serpentine belt is used to drive multiple peripheral devices such as an alternator, power steering assist (only in some cars), water pump, AC compressor & etc. It is a reinforced belt designed to last 1-1.5 lakh kilometers or 10 years. Common issues are squeezing noise and/or slipping due to loss of belt tension and peripheral devices will not function properly.

Mine didn't cause any serious issues but the belt had minor cracks and worn down v-ribs so it was time to change it. My car has auto tensioner so no adjustments required and it only takes few mins to replace the belt.

Boodmo has stopped selling OEM Honda parts and ASC doesn't give parts over the counter. This is really a deal breaker for those who are considering buying Honda cars and me too in future. Anyway, OEM belt (38920-RB0-004) spec is 5PK1137 (1137mm length with 5 ribs) and I found the nearest size (5PK1135) from Continental brand. There are other brands such as Gates, Optibelt, Fenner, Pix but they were plus 3mm to 8mm (1140, 1145). Auto tensioner has spring inside to put pressure on the belt and it will also lose some tension after many years so I thought a slightly tighter belt will compensate.

Product Link: Boodmo (Contitech 5PK1135 Multi V-Belt)

Product Pictures:
CR_ANHC09_Belt_New_01.jpg
CR_ANHC09_Belt_New_02.jpg
CR_ANHC09_Belt_New_03.jpg
CR_ANHC09_Belt_New_04.jpg
Replacing the belt is pretty simple and only 19mm spanner is required to lift the auto tensioner. Although it is possible to hold the spanner in one hand and remove old belt but fitting new one will be tricky so I used a zip tag to secure the spanner to nearby bolt and then work on routing the new belt. I also had to remove wheel well cover for easy access. Here is a video on how to replace Serpentine Belt on Honda Jazz which is very similar to Honda City. I didn't had to remove the wheel though, just turned the steering to far right.

Belt Diagram:
CR_ANHC09_Belt_Diagram.png
Belt wear indicator on Auto Tensioner:
CR_ANHC09_Belt_Tensioner_02.jpg
CR_ANHC09_Belt_Tensioner_01.jpg

After Installation:

CR_ANHC09_Belt_New_05.jpg
CR_ANHC09_Belt_New_06.jpg
CR_ANHC09_Belt_New_07.jpg

Old Belt:
CR_ANHC09_Belt_Old_01.jpg
CR_ANHC09_Belt_Old_02.jpg
CR_ANHC09_Belt_Old_03.jpg
 
Thread Starter #23
Joined
Oct 12, 2012
Messages
1,166
Likes
1,330
Location
Hubli
More about belt wear indicator on Auto Tensioner:

Most of auto belt tensioners have an indicator to show the condition of belt; whether it has become loose or worn down (thickness of V ribs) and also spring tension. Markings may differ with manufacturer so here I will be giving details for my car only (Honda City/Jazz/Fit)


Normally the pointer should be in-between the tab and indentation like this:
----V-----
|....| |__|
|....|
|__|

If the pointer is all the way to left then the belt is loose or worn and requires replacement. Using loose belt will also cause this:

V---------
|....| |__|
|....|
|__|

If the pointer is all the way to right then the spring inside auto tensioner has lost the tension and requires replacement. Using tight belt will also cause this:

---------V
|....| |__|
|....|
|__|

Here is guide on how to test auto-tensioner using vise and torque wrench.
 
Thread Starter #24
Joined
Oct 12, 2012
Messages
1,166
Likes
1,330
Location
Hubli
Universal Front Bumper Splitter (March 2023) & Universal ABS spoiler (August 2023) :

I bought these from my friend who has car accessories shop named StyleMyCar in Mumbai. Splitter cost me Rs.1800/- and Spoiler Rs.4650/- including shipping.

CR_FBS_005.jpg
CR_FBS_006.jpg
ABS_Spoiler_01.jpg
ABS_Spoiler_02.jpg

Splitter default width was little bigger when attached together (mostly designed for cars like civic) so I had to cross saw few mm near joints and then it matched the shape of the bumper. Installed it using several screws drilled to the bottom of bumper.

Spoiler installation was pretty easy since it doesn't require drilling. It has large footprint which is affixed on the trunk with provided double sided adhesive pads. I have cleaned the surface using IPA before affixing and it is holding well so far but I will have check it regularly.

Car Pictures:
CR_ANHC_01.jpg
CR_ANHC_02.jpg
CR_ANHC_03.jpg
CR_ANHC_04.jpg
CR_ANHC_05.jpg
CR_ANHC_06.jpg
CR_ANHC_07.jpg
 
Thread Starter #26
Joined
Oct 12, 2012
Messages
1,166
Likes
1,330
Location
Hubli
Was the car loaded at the time of clicking these images?

Why does the rear suspension look compressed? Clearance between the tyre and wheels are lesser at the rear as compared to the front.
Good find.

Yeah, my mom was sitting in the rear and also I'd blame old stocks or springs. Only front struts were new at the time of taking these pictures. Now I have got new rear shocks but still there is 1-1.5cm of difference between front and rear wheel arch.
 
Last edited:
Thread Starter #27
Joined
Oct 12, 2012
Messages
1,166
Likes
1,330
Location
Hubli
Rear Seat Clips (August 2023):

Rear seat has three clips to secure the seat and two of them were broken in my car so seat used to rattle while going through rough roads or bumps. OEM seat clip cost 200 each but boodmo nor ASC couldn't arrange one for me. Fortunately I could find suitable clips on ebay.com (China) and the same was delivered in 10 days. Surprising it was forwarded to Bluedart for delivery. I also bought bumper clips which were delivered in two weeks by India Post. Looking forward to buy more stuffs from China again. [:D]

Product Link: Ebay
Bumper Clips of various size: Ebay

As you can see; the design of clip is little different compared to OEM but it fitted properly. Of course I measured the size while ordering. It has another plastic piece inside to give better cushioning.
CR_ANHC09_Seat_Clips_01.jpg CR_ANHC09_Seat_Clips_02.jpg CR_ANHC09_Seat_Clips_03.jpg CR_ANHC09_Seat_Clips_04.jpg CR_ANHC09_Seat_Clips_05.jpg CR_ANHC09_Seat_Clips_06.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thread Starter #28
Joined
Oct 12, 2012
Messages
1,166
Likes
1,330
Location
Hubli
Door Check Arm (August 2023):

All four doors were not holding in place especially when the car is inclined. This became troublesome for my mother because she cannot always hold the door while ingress and egress. Last year I ordered the parts on boodmo but they didn't send even after I gave them 3 months time. This year another seller listed the parts but again did not send and refunded later. So my only option was ASC but they don't give parts over the counter. Last month I went to ASC to get rear shocks replaced and also got all four door check arms replaced. They changed Rs.318.88/- for installing each arms which hardly takes 10-15mins! Cost of the part is also around 300. This is why they want to install the part and not just give them to customers. [anger]

New Door Check Arm Installed:
CR_ANHC09_New_Check_Arm.jpg

Old Door Check Arms:
CR_ANHC09_Old_Check_Arms.jpg

Rear Shock Absorbers (August 2023):

Last year ASC couldn't source rear shocks so I could only front suspension overhaul but my car became like boat. Front end sitting higher then rear. Asked ASC to order again and fortunately they were able to get the parts in a week. I went there last month to get rear shocks replaced as well as door check arms and AC gas refilling.

Car doesn't feel like boat now but still there is 1 cm difference between front and rear wheel arch. I'm sure it is coil spring that has lost tension and it also needed replacement but SA kept saying it doesn't go bad. He also said front struts will settle down but that didn't happen yet. I also believe that OEM is using stiffer springs on facelift models to increase or maintain GC.

New Rear Shocks:
CR_ANHC_New_Rear_Shocks_01.jpg CR_ANHC_New_Rear_Shocks_02.jpg

Car pictures with New Shocks (Not much of a difference):
CR_ANHC09_001.jpg
CR_ANHC09_002.jpg
CR_ANHC09_003.jpg

Old Rear Shocks:
CR_ANHC_Old_Rear_Shocks.jpg
 
Thread Starter #29
Joined
Oct 12, 2012
Messages
1,166
Likes
1,330
Location
Hubli
Update on AMT Coil Spring Buffers:

As you can see in the above pictures, I had remove the buffers because with new rear shocks there was knocking/thud noise from rear and stiffness. Even with old stocks, it never really increased the height nor prevented the spring from compressing. Rogerab buffers look thicker and may help with ride height but still I don't expect them to give better comfort because it hinders the functionality of spring.

Bravo Coil Spring Pads:

Rear coil spring is fixed with two pads, upper and lower. They also get crushed overtime and requires replacement. So I started searching for the pads and found Bravo brand which makes OEM spec parts for many different car models. They have both the pads designed for my car model but upper one is plus size which means it will increase spring height upto 1.5cm and thats what I need. I bought the pads from Amazon (Also available in boodmo with high shipping cost). Upper pads cost Rs. 450/- for pair and lower pads Rs.652/- for pair. I will get them installed next week from FNG and update here.

Upper Pads PN-1124A*: Amazon, Boodmo
Lower Pads PN-1150: Amazon, Boodmo

* There PN-1124 also and it is plus 2 size.

Upper Pads:
Bravo_PN-1124A_01.jpg
Lower Pads:
Bravo_PN-1150_01.jpg
 

Attachments

Thread Starter #30
Joined
Oct 12, 2012
Messages
1,166
Likes
1,330
Location
Hubli
Finally my car is leveled and doesn't look/feel like boat. [:D]

CR_ANHC09_20231003.jpg
CR_ANHC09_20231006.jpg

Few days ago I went to a known garage and got the old pads replaced. They were crushed and degraded badly. Even though new pads are aftermarket, they are designed exactly same as OEM pads. However, the mechanic didn't align the pads and I didn't get a chance to check everything myself (Was afraid to go under the lift). It may not cause issues but you know things should be installed properly and that was bothering me so today I jacked the car, removed bottom shock absorber bolt and aligned the pads. The spring end should touch the tab/stopper made on the pads (Upper and Lower). I had to tied the spring with jute rope so it doesn't expand and pads turn freely. Now everything feels perfect and there is no knocking noise or stiffness like I had with buffer pads.

Spring end (Red arrow) should touch the tab/stopper (Green line) made on the pads. This is upper pad and should be done same on lower pad. There are also yellow, green markings on the lower pad and spring for alignment.
CR_ANHC09_Spring_Pad_Before.jpg CR_ANHC09_Spring_Pad_After.jpg

Jacked the car for aligning spring and pads. I had to do it on both sides. However, removing the springs is not possible or too risky with single sided jack so better visit garage with car lift for replacing pads.
CR_ANHC09_Spring_Tied.jpg

Pads properly aligned on both sides:
CR_ANHC09_Spring_01.jpg CR_ANHC09_Spring_02.jpg

Old Pads:
CR_ANHC09_Old_Pads.jpg
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom